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Rough Country 3-Inch Bolt-On Upper Control Arm Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks (14-20 4WD F-150 SuperCab, SuperCrew, Excluding Raptor)

Item T551357
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$649.95 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Jake: Jake here for AmericanTrucks. And today, I'm taking a look at this Rough Country 3-inch Bolt-On Upper Control Arm Suspension Lift Kit with the Premium N3 Shocks for 2014 to 2020 4-Wheel Drive F-150 Supercabs and Supercrews, excluding the Raptor. Now, if you've got a '14 to '20 4-Wheel Drive Supercab or Supercrew and you're looking for a budget-friendly way to get some extra height for off-roading or to run some bigger tires, you're gonna wanna check out this kit from Rough Country.Now, this is a bolt-on all-inclusive lift kit that is going to get you three inches of extra height and level out the stance of your F-150 while maintaining stock ride quality and allowing you to keep the stock suspension geometry. Now, before we get into all the details, I do wanna specify again that this kit is only for 2014 to 2020 4-wheel drive F-150 Supercabs and Supercrews. So if you have a 2-wheel drive truck, a regular cab, or a Raptor, unfortunately, this is not going to fit your truck. But with that, let's get on to the lift kit itself.This, again, is a 3-inch lift. So it's gonna provide you enough clearance to run some larger tires on your truck as well. Now, as you can see on our truck, 33s will fit with no issues and you can run up to 34-inch tires on aftermarket wheels without rubbing or other modifications to your truck. Now, 35s will also fit, but fair warning, you will get some rubbing at full lock as you can see here. So, in my opinion, I would go with 33s for this setup because that's kind of the ideal. You're gonna get a lot of tire choices, and you're not gonna have to make any modifications or run into any issues with rubbing.Now, Rough Country also included some great things in this kit. But let's start with these upper control arms. Now, these are heavy-duty upper control arms, and they include Clevite rubber bushings already pressed in. So they're gonna provide excellent absorption of road impacts. The arms themselves are forged aluminum, much like your stock control arms, and they're pretty lightweight, but they do have a lot of structural integrity. So they're gonna hold up to whatever abuse you can throw at them.And you might have noticed also that you do have new ball joints. But the key here is that the ball joints are also angled to accommodate for the added height. So despite adding quite a few inches to the front end, these are gonna keep things pretty close to your factory suspension geometry, which is, again, gonna help maintain that factory ride quality and provide for a full range of motion so you can take advantage of that added ground clearance. To get the front end lifted up, you're gonna have these solid spacers to insert just above your struts.Now, these just bolt in and they move your strut down to get the desired lift. This is a common effective and inexpensive way to get the height you want out of the front of your truck while maintaining that stock ride quality. Now, the spacers themselves measure about an inch and a quarter. But this is still gonna add up to a 3-inch lift overall in the front end due to the suspension geometry and the new control arms. Now, in the rear, what we have is a standard block-style lift. So this is gonna move your rear leaf springs down. You also get new U-bolts to keep everything secured and accommodate the additional height. Now, these blocks themselves measure a true 2.5 inches. So you're gonna get about that much in the rear.You also are going to get a set of Rough Country's premium N3 shocks included in the kit. Now, these are nitrogen-charged shocks and they have 10-stage variable damping to help keep the ride smooth out on the road while doing a good job of absorbing impacts and controlling rebound out on the trail. They feature these chrome-hardened piston rods with a large piston and these big shock bodies for durability. The bodies of the shocks are also finished in this nice silver powder coat finish. So they're gonna stand up to the elements and corrosion pretty well too. So, overall, again, you're gonna get about a 3-inch lift in the front and about a 2.5-inch lift in the rear. So, this kit also functions as a leveling kit.So it's gonna eliminate the rake that F-150s come from the factory, hence the difference front to rear. So instead of sitting a bit lower in the front and a bit higher in the rear as it does from the factory, once you've got all this installed, it's gonna sit pretty much even front to back. Now, I also wanna touch on price for a moment here because that is also a big feature of this kit. Coming in around $800, I think this one represents really good value for your money. Now, you're not necessarily getting all of the features, but you are getting really high-quality pieces like control arms, bushings, and ball joints, plus those spacers and, of course, the rear shocks.Again, this is gonna be very effective and it's very budget-friendly. It's also very high quality. You also get all the hardware that you need included to do the job. So you're gonna get the height that you want and the clearance to be able to run those larger tires without having to make any modifications. Overall, again, I think this one's a really good value. Now, as far as install goes, this gets a three out of three on our difficulty meter, and you should budget about six hours or so to get it installed. Now, you can certainly do this at home in your driveway, especially since everything you need is in the box, including, again, that new hardware, but it is a bit of an involved job.Now, if you aren't necessarily comfortable disassembling suspension components, professional installation is, of course, always an option. But, again, this is something you can do at home in your driveway with tools that you'll be able to find in your garage. One thing I would like to note, though, is that once you've got everything buttoned up and you've given it a little time to settle, make sure you get an appointment to get your truck aligned since you are changing out suspension components. And with that, let's head on over to the install bay where we'll show you how to get this installed on your F-150.Man: The tools you'll need for this project is a 15-millimeter wrench, an 18-millimeter wrench, a 21-millimeter wrench, an 8-millimeter, a 10-millimeter socket, and a 1/4-inch drive, a 1/4-inch drive ratchet, a 13-millimeter socket, a 17-millimeter socket, and 3/8 drive, a3/8 drive ratchet, a 15-millimeter socket with a universal joint, an 18-millimeter socket, a 19-millimeter socket, a 21-millimeter socket, and a 27-millimeter socket all-in-impact with an impact gun, a flathead screwdriver, a ball peen hammer, a couple of hangers for your calipers, a trim removal tool, a pry bar, and a vacuum pump.Hi, everyone. Today we're gonna be installing a lift kit on our F-150. So let's get started with the uninstall of the stock system first. To begin our uninstall of the stock system, the first thing we need to do is disconnect the electronic power steering system. So let's take care of that. So, using our flathead screwdriver, we're gonna slide this red clip here on the big plug all the way to the end, and then we can pull the plug out. Now we'll get the upper plug by sliding the red clip back, and depressing the tab, and disconnecting. Now we're gonna go ahead and disconnect our brake line and our ABS line from the steering knuckle here and here with a soft trim removal tool. So let's use our 10-millimeter and disconnect the brake line.Now, we'll use our 8-millimeter socket to disconnect our ABS line from the steering knuckle. Now our trim removal tool to remove the clip. Now we can disconnect the vacuum lines for our IWE actuator which is located behind the steering knuckle. Now we can go ahead and disconnect our ABS connection so that we can go ahead and finish the uninstall. So this plug is located near the shock tower that we're gonna pull the red tab up to unlock it and then push the locking tab down and pull it apart. Now we'll go ahead and remove the lower nut on our sway bar link using our 18-millimeter socket.Now we'll disconnect our tie rod end using our 21-millimeter socket. Now we can remove our brake caliper from the steering knuckle. But before we do that, I recommend loosely installing one lug nut just to keep the rotor from falling off.And you also wanna make sure that you've got a hanger to support the caliper so that the brake lines don't get stretched out. Now, you may need to use a breaker bar to break these loose because they are on there pretty tight.Now you can remove your rotor. Now we can remove the dust cap and the 13-millimeter axle nut using our 13-millimeter socket.Now we're gonna remove the two nuts from the bottom of the strut and then we're gonna lower the vehicle to put a jack underneath the lower control arm so that we can remove the upper control arm nut. And we're gonna remove these nuts using our 18-millimeter socket.Now we're going to just slightly loosen our two lower control arm nuts using our 27-millimeter socket.Now we can go ahead and loosen the nut for our upper ball joint using an 18-millimeter wrench. Now, when you start to take this off, you may notice that the ball joint stud starts to spin. If that's the case, use an 8-millimeter wrench on the bottom of the stud to hold it in place while you continue to loosen the nut.Now, at this point, before you actually remove the upper control arm nut, you wanna get a vacuum pump and attach it to the vacuum port on the back of the steering knuckle and pump it up to 24 inches of vacuum. That will prevent any damage happening to your IWE actuator once you remove the axle from the steering knuckle. And you're gonna wanna attach your vacuum hose to the larger of the two vacuum ports. Now that we've got our vacuum hose connected to the larger of the two vacuum ports, we can go ahead and use our pump and bring it up to 24 inches of vacuum.Now, at this point, you could probably go ahead and pull down on your control arm to finish removing the nut. Now, you can slowly lower and remove your jack so that we can move on to removing the strut.Now we can remove the three top nuts to our strut using our 15-millimeter wrench.Now we can use our pry bar on our lower control arm to push it down and out of the way so we can lift our strut out.Now you can go ahead and remove the axle from the steering knuckle and remove your strut.And now you can repeat these steps for the other side. Now we can remove our upper control arm bolts using our 21-millimeter and our 18-millimeter wrenches.And repeat this process for the other side. Now we're gonna install our new control arm using the factory hardware.Now we're ready to start the install of our little black spacer here. And that's gonna go underneath the top hat of our strut. So in order to do that, we're gonna need a spring compressor to compress this spring so we can remove this top hat safely.So we're gonna need an 18-millimeter socket and a spring compressor. The other thing that we're going to need to do because when we install the top spacer on the strut, it's gonna re-orient the strut 180 degrees. So we're gonna have to readjust the two studs at the bottom and point them in the other direction. So let's go do that.Before we do that, we need to mark our strut and our top cap so that when we put it back together, they're lined back up. To do that, we're just gonna use a simple marking utensil, make a line on the top and on the isolator, that way when we put it back together, we know exactly where they go.All right. Now that we've got our strut securely mounted in our spring compressor, we can go ahead and remove this top nut using our 18-millimeter socket. And if necessary, if the stud starts to spin, we've got an 8-millimeter socket to hold it still.Now, we can go ahead and slowly decompress our spring so that we can install our spacer underneath the top hat.All right. Now, some of you may notice when you take your stride apart, that your tower hat has a plastic sleeve on it. If you do, your under-hat spacer will not fit. So what we'll have to do is remove this plastic sleeve. One way that I found to be able to do that is to use the 5/32 punch and go through all the little holes at the top of the hat, punch that out because it is heat-sealed under the hat, and then we can pry the sleeve out. Now, do keep in mind, when you remove this plastic sleeve, it cannot be reinstalled.Now we can head back over to the spring compressor and reassemble our strut. Now we can go ahead and set our spacer on top of our isolator and set our hat on top of it, making sure, of course, that the lines we made earlier line up with the isolator so that it goes back together correctly.Now we can go ahead and compress our spring before we reinstall our struts so that we can attach them to the top.Now, we can slowly decompress our spring and repeat for the other strut. Now we can go ahead and install our studs into our top spacer. To do this, we're gonna insert the stud from the back into the deep hole, apply a flat washer and the supplied torque-down nut. Now we can use our 17-millimeter socket on our impact to draw that up through the spacer.Now, we can go ahead and do that to the other two on this spacer and do the same thing on the other side.Now we can go ahead and install our spacer on top of our strut using the supplied nuts. Now, we'll tighten it down with our 17-millimeter socket.Now, because the addition of the spacer reorients the strut 180 degrees, we'll need to adjust the angle of our bottom studs. So let's head over to the vise and take care of that right now.Now we'll reinstall our strut, attaching it with the supplied hardware.Due to the added length of the strut and the added compression because of the spacer, you may need a floor jack to help raise the lower control arm up high enough so that we can attach the nuts to the lower part of the strut. Now, you may need to use the floor jack to help raise up the lower control arm. We're not gonna have to do that on ours. So now, we'll go ahead and reattach our lower strut mount bolts loosely just so we can get everything else connected.Now we can go ahead and reinstall our axle chef, making sure that we have 24 inches of vacuum on our IWE actuator to prevent any damage. Now, here's where you'll definitely need the floor jack to raise that lower control arm up to get the right angle to slide our axle shaft into the hub.Now, we can loosely attach the axle nut just to hold it in place. Now, you will wanna continue to use your floor jack at this point to compress the spring even more so that we can raise the steering knuckle up to install the upper control arm.Now we can loosely attach our upper control arm bolt to hold everything in place.Now we'll go ahead and reinstall our rotor and secure it with our one lug nut. Now we can slide our caliper on and reinstall it using the original hardware and tightening it down with our 21-millimeter socket.Now we can go ahead and disconnect our vacuum pump and reconnect our vacuum lines to the IWE actuator.Now we can go ahead and reinstall our tie rod end into the steering knuckle and secure it with the original hardware. And we'll tighten that down with our 21-millimeter socket.Now we can go ahead and reinstall our sway bar end link using our original hardware. And you may need to use your pry bar just because the sway bar was never loosened up, but it doesn't take much effort. And we'll tighten that down with our 18-millimeter socket. Now we can go ahead and reattach our ABS line using our original hardware.Now we'll re-attach our brake line bracket again using the original hardware and reattach our ABS grommet and tighten those bolts down with your 8-millimeter and your 10-millimeter sockets respectively.Now that we've got everything attached, we can tighten everything down and torque them to factory specs and repeat on the other side. And the last step that we have to do is to reconnect our electronic power steering. Because we're on a lift, we're using a couple of pole jacks to support our differential. You can use a couple of floor jacks if you need to. Now, we can go ahead and remove our shock using our 15-millimeter socket and our 18-millimeter wrench.Now we can go ahead and remove the nuts from our U-bolts using our 21-millimeter socket.Now we can go ahead and slowly lower the one side of our differential so that we can remove the block. And repeat those steps for the other side. Now we can go ahead and install our new blocks. Now, the manufacturer does supply new bolts for the U-bolts, so we'll go ahead and use those.Now we can go ahead and raise our differential up, making sure that our alignment pins are lined up with our holes. Now we can go ahead and tighten up our nuts.Now we'll install our new shock, reusing the stock hardware. We can tighten them down using our 15-millimeter socket and our 18-millimeter wrench. Repeat that process for the other side.And that wraps up our review and install of the Rough Country 3-inch Bolt-On Upper Control Arm Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks for our '14 to '20 4-Wheel Drive F-150 SuperCab and SuperCrew, excluding Raptor. Thanks for watching, and remember, for all things F-150, keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Suspension Lift Kit
      • Raises Truck by 3 Inches
      • Increases Ground Clearance and Boosts Performance
      • Comes with Premium N3 Shock Absorbers
      • With Heavy-Duty Forged Upper Control Arms
      • Includes Rear Lift Blocks and U-Bolts
      • Supports Up to 34-Inch Tires
      • Bolt-On Installation with Mechanical Expertise
      • Backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Fits All 2014-2020 4WD Ford F-150 SuperCab, SuperCrew Models, Excluding Raptor Models


      Bolder Off-Roading. Upgrade your F-150’s suspension to this Rough Country 3-Inch Bolt-On Arm Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks and run larger tires up to 34 inches for a bolder off-road stance. This lift system comes with heavy-duty forged upper control arms, premium N3 shocks, rear blocks, and U-bolts for enhanced all-terrain performance.

      Optimal Ride Quality. This 3-Inch Bolt-On Arm Suspension Lift Kit includes Premium N3 Shocks that help your truck conquer the challenging terrains with comfort and stability. These shock absorbers are equipped with hardened chrome shafts, massive shock bodies, and leak-proof seals. Moreover, they come in a rust-proof, metallic silver finish for reinforced corrosion resistance and a multi-stage valving for optimal performance on and off the road.

      Reinforced Stance and Handling. The heavy-duty upper control arms in this Bolt-On Arm Suspension Lift Kit offer an instant, aggressive look and a commanding stance. The ball joints in the upper control arms allow for an improved, full range of motion with less stress, wear, and tear. Additionally, the control arms feature forged aluminum construction that boasts high structural strength and rigidity for lasting rugged use, precise fit, and superior stability.

      Professional Bolt-On Installation. This Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks installs with professional mechanical expertise required. The components bolt to your vehicle’s factory mounting locations and include all the necessary hardware for a hassle-free process.

      Limited Warranty. Rough Country backs this 3-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with a limited lifetime warranty against factory defects in materials and workmanship under normal use. Some exclusions may apply; please check the full warranty policy for complete details.

      Application. This Rough Country 3-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks is intended for use on all 2014-2020 4WD Ford F-150 SuperCab, SuperCrew models, excluding Raptors.



      Rough Country 51014

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Rear Premium N3 Shocks
      • (2) Upper Control Arms
      • (2) Rear Blocks
      • (4) U-Bolts
      • Installation Hardware

      Customer Reviews (341)

        Questions & Answers

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        Will It Fit My F-150

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        • 3.0L V6 Power-Stroke - 18, 19, 20
        • 3.3L V6 - 18, 19, 20
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        • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost Limited - 19, 20
        • 3.7L V6 - 14
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        • 6.2L V8 - 14