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Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com. Today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Fabtech 6-inch Gen II Basic Lift Kit System with Stealth Shocks available for the 2014 to 2018 Silverado 1500, both 2-wheel and 4-wheel-drive models. You should be looking at this particular lift kit for your own truck if you're looking for a ton of added ground clearance to tackle off-road obstacles and also to fit a set of 33-inch tires comfortably under those square wheel wells from Chevy that we've all come to know and love and even a set of 35s if you're willing to do some minor trimming to eliminate some of those clearance issues.This particular lift kit is a budget lift system, guys, right out of the box here you're getting everything for a more affordable price than most of the other options in the category simply because this does not include a front set of coilover replacements. This is gonna give you all the things necessary to lift your truck 6 inches with a couple extra goodies thrown in like your skid plate here, your relocation brackets for your diff and for your sway bars and, of course, a set of stealth shocks. Those shocks are nitrogen-charged to give you a better handling performance, better ride comfort on the road, and better performance off-road. You're also getting a set of front and rear crossmembers. In addition to that, two front spindles, your 6-inch lift spacers for the front, your 6-inch blocks for the rear, U-bolts that are of appropriate size to lift your truck, and a ton of other hardware to get the job done. Altogether, this is a really good way to get your truck up in the air, eliminate those ground clearance issues that you have from the factory.Now, we all know off the factory line your Silverado is not even remotely capable of handling any kind of off-road adventure or even just worksite hazards or on-road obstacles. You just don't have enough ground clearance, especially with the stock 31-inch tires. If you were looking to add a bigger set of wheels and tires you're gonna want to throw in a lift kit to give yourself that ground clearance that you need as well as the wheel fitment that you need. Those 33s on a stock suspension would not have a ton of room to move when it comes to full locking your wheels. Driving in a straight line, absolutely no problem, but the second you got to make a U-turn or a K-turn, anything like that you're gonna come in contact with the inner wheel well liners. That could be a serious problem driving on the road depending on how big you go with your aftermarket wheels and tires and the 6-inch lift is a perfect amount of clearance to give you all the room you need to make all the K-turns and U-turns with your truck at full lock you'll have absolutely no contact with the set of 33s. 35s, on the other hand, do sometimes tend to slightly come in contact with certain portions of the wheel well liner and a lot of guys out there honestly won't mind that very much. How often do you do a full lock turn in your truck? Possibly not that often depending on how you drive. If you do mind that little bit of rubbing you could make a slight modification to your wheel well liner to fit those 35s.Altogether though, I want to show you guys how this gets installed. But before we do that let's talk about the price tag. Now, again, this one comes in right around 1500 bucks making it one of the more budget-friendly systems on the market. With that $1500 kit that you have here you do not have to make any modifications when it comes to adding CV spacers, impact struts for the front end, or any [inaudible 00:03:05] to the rear. None of those components will have to be modified to make this lift kit work which is a huge bonus. Some of the other budget systems on the market might require you to pick up additional parts to keep that factory ride quality intact, but Fabtech has done a great job in making sure that all of that stays the same.Your sway bar is gonna be relocated using these brackets but it is gonna attach those factory mounting holes making sure that your front end alignments are kept proper. You don't have you worry about anything being off-centered and your factory truck width is kept intact as well making sure you have minimal to no vibration on the road at the front. With all of this in mind, the installation does require modifications to your factory crossmembers and to your factory diff. Now, it's not the end of the world you just want to have a cutting tool that you're comfortable working with so I am giving this two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter when it comes to getting this installed. It'll take about 4 hours from start to finish to get the job all done. You want to have some mechanical expertise on deck. If you don't feel comfortable tackling it yourself there's no shame handing over to a professional to get done properly.Before we get to that I do want to mention there is another option for this particular kit when it comes to the shocks. You can get the Fabtech 6-inch Gen II Basic Lift System with performance shocks or stealth shocks. So we are working with the stealth shocks here today which come in a nice black powder-coated finish, corrosion and rust resistant, nitrogen-charged, it is just a really good upgrade for your truck and you do have those two options to play with on the site. You can pick whichever one you choose but I wanted to let you know we're working with the stealth shocks here today. All right, that's enough talking, let's show you guys how it gets done.Step number one in our long installation process here is actually to remove our factory skid plate. We've got our truck up in the air on our lift, but if you're working on the ground make sure you're supporting the entire truck on the frame rails using jack stands. So we've got it up in the air here, we're gonna remove the two 15-millimeter bolts up top then we're gonna remove the rest of the bolts holding the skid plate on underneath our front diff.The next step here we're gonna grab a 21-millimeter deep socket and remove the nut holding on our factory tie rod end. Now, we're not gonna fully remove the nut just yet, I'm gonna loosen it up so it's on the last thread here and then we're gonna need to take a hammer and just knock this loose. We're gonna knock that spindle loose from the tie rod end. Now we can back that nut all the way off. Next step here, grab your 10-millimeter socket and remove the brake line bracket from the top of the spindle. Disconnect that and move it out of the way.Now, what I like to do is just thread the bolt back in just so you don't lose it, makes it easy to find. In order to get our caliper bolts off, we're gonna remove this one down here and another one at the top. Now, if they're giving you a little bit of trouble, really big half-inch ratchet would do the trick with your breaker bar and an 18-millimeter socket. Now, for this you don't want to have this hanging down on the brake line. It can be really detrimental to that line. So what we're gonna do is find a nice spot on the frame to hang it up on. Next up, grab your T30 Torx bit and remove the rotor positioning screw from the front end of the rotor and pop the whole thing out of place. Grab your T30 Torx bit again and remove the wheel sensor screw then unplug the entire sensor, swing the bracket line all the way on the other side and then hang it up on the frame out of the way of the spindle.All right, now in order to get our axle nut off next, we're gonna need a 36-millimeter axle nut socket. Now, I'm using air tools just to give myself a little bit more torque because this thing does spin. Now, if you're having trouble with that, could always throw a pry bar in between the studs to hold it steady. Having a helping hand goes a long way with that. But we're gonna use air tools here to give ourselves a little more torque. Here we go, we're gonna set this aside from reinstallation later.Next, we're gonna do our upper and lower ball joints. Now the upper ball joint you want to grab an 18-millimeter wrench just because there isn't enough room to get a socket in here and you need a deep socket. So that's not gonna work. So we've got our 18-millimeter wrench, we're gonna rotate this off and, again, just like we did with our tie rod end we're gonna rotate it until it's down to the last thread and then use a hammer to dislodge it. Next up, we have a 15/16 wrench and we're gonna remove the bottom. With the top and bottom dislodged I'm just gonna unthread this bottom nut and the whole thing will come off. All right, next up here is gonna be our front sway bar end link bolt, that's a 15-millimeter deep socket. You might need a wrench for the bottom here to keep it from spinning. Switching over to air tools, make our life a little bit easier.Next up here, we're gonna disconnect the top of our coilover. Now, there's three bolts inside of your wheel well liner here. You're gonna need your 18-millimeter wrench. I recommend a ratcheting wrench to make life a little bit easier. You wanna make sure you're holding on to these nuts because you'll reinstall those later. All right, grab your 15-millimeter socket and your cordless impact or ratchet and remove the two bolts from the bottom of your coilover. All right, now pull the whole coilover assembly out of your front suspension.All right, next up are the six bolts holding on your axle shaft. Now, you're gonna grab your extension, impact gun and your 15-millimeter socket and knock all six of those out. We're gonna remove the entire lower control arm here. You're gonna need a 15/16 deep socket on the inside nut here and an 18-millimeter wrench on the outside of the bolt head.At this point, we're pretty much completely done disassembling the front end of our driver side suspension. We want to repeat the whole process we just did for the opposite side on the passenger side front end. Once that's all complete we'll come back underneath the car and drop the entire front sway bar.All right, next up we're gonna disconnect our front sway bar from underneath of the truck, grab your 10-millimeter socket and unbolt the brackets. The next step here is to drop our rear crossmember. Now, there's 2 bolts on each side, 18-millimeter nut from this side and the bolt head on the other, so grab your 18-millimeter wrench and socket.So the next step here we actually have to make some modifications to our lower control arm mounts. Now, the mounting holes on the rear and on the front are both on our driver side here and we have to make sure that we're doing this to our rear mounting holes. As you can see we've already removed that rear crossmember, now we have to cut 3 inches off of this mount. So we're gonna take our measuring tape, put that right on the end here, measure 3 inches which is just past that second bolt hole and we're gonna use a paint marker and just mark that 3-inch line. We have to cut straight through both sides of this lower mount and we're gonna mark the 3-inch line on the opposite side with our paint marker as well then we're gonna take our reciprocating saw and cut straight through. All right, now that we cut our rear lower control arm mount on the driver side we have to do the same thing to the passenger side only this time instead of 3 inches we're measuring in, its gonna be 3 and a half inches. So we're breaking out the measuring tape again, throw it up against the end of where those bolt hole mounts are, open up your paint pen and mark 3 and a half inches.All right, so now that we tackled our rear lower control arm mounts, we're gonna tackle the front lower control arm mounts. So we're up here at the front end of our driver side, what we're gonna do is cut a quarter inch off of these edges. So as you can see this is a rounded edge, we're pretty much-gonna square that off. So I'm not gonna use our tape measure here, I'm actually just gonna mark what this would look like if it was squared off then we'll grind them down. Now, for this we're not gonna use a reciprocating saw we're gonna use our grinder. It doesn't have to be perfect it's just gonna go straight across here squaring off these edges and then we're gonna do this exact same thing on the passenger side of our front lower control arm mount. All right, now we can do the same thing on our passenger side. So the last bit of cutting we have to do here is on the rear lower control arm mounts on the passenger and driver side but only on the front portion of the pocket. So we're gonna ignore this rear portion, the last piece of this, we're gonna go up to this front portion here. Now we're gonna measure one inch down from the mounting hole and cut straight across with our wheel. I'm gonna mark it on the inside here just because it's a little bit easier and then we're gonna repeat this exact process for the passenger side but first let's get this cut off. All right, now the same thing for the other side.Next step here we're gonna disconnect our driveshaft from the front diff. Grab your 11-millimeter socket and I'm gonna use a swivel joint just because it might make life a little bit easier. We'll tackle these two bottom bolts then grab an extension and hit the top two.So now that we have all of our cutting out of the way we have a little bit of exposed metal in some places on our lower control arm mounts so we're gonna take a black chassis paint can and we're just gonna spray over all of that exposed metal on the front end, on the back end, on both sides, driver and passenger, just to make sure that we're covering all of our bases and we're preventing rust in the future. This is highly rust and corrosion-resistant so it's a good idea to have. Also, have a little piece of cardboard to catch all the overspray and make sure you're not spraying over the diff and all of that nonsense, so go ahead and spray all the exposed metal.The next step here is actually to disconnect our steering rack harnesses and to drop the whole steering rack altogether. Because we're working with wiring during that process I'm gonna drop the truck back down and disconnect our battery. All right, so we've got our extension and our 10-millimeter socket, we're just gonna disconnect the negative cable and push that out of the way. With our battery disconnected here, we're gonna disconnect the three harness clips on our steering rack here and then we're gonna pop all the Christmas tree clips out of the rack itself. Now, for these, you might want to grab a flathead screwdriver just to pop off those locking tabs.All right, next up here is to actually unbolt your steering rack. There's one 18 millimeter bolt directly inside of this hole and then there's two right outside here. So I'll get my extension, my 18-millimeter deep socket, we're gonna tackle the inside one first. Now, before we tackle the two 15/16 bolts we're actually gonna go right past that and disconnect the bolt on our steering shaft and that's gonna be an 11-millimeter socket. All right, so I got my buddy, Tony, helping me out here. I'm gonna remove these other two 15/16 bolts, he's gonna start lowering that down. All right, so we have one more bolt to disconnect our steering rack here, it's an 18-millimeter just past this wire harness.So we got our steering track off of our car on the table here and before I actually get to grinding this little portion here, I want to make note that there are a lot of different mechanical variances from truck to truck. If your particular model does not have this lip that comes over top of these, you know, harness connectors then you don't have to do this. But since ours has this little lip that comes up we need to make a little clearance room here. I'm gonna get my die grinder and take the lip down.All right, next two steps here before we drop our differential is to disconnect our electrical connection on our passenger side and then the vacuum line on our driver side. All right, next step here, we're actually gonna drop our whole differential on the front end here. So we've got two 18-millimeter bolts that we got our socket for and then two 21-millimeter bolts on the other side.All right, the next step here now that we have our front diff off of the truck and on the table, we have to cut off the mounting point on our passenger side. So if you look at this entire diff this here is gonna be on our passenger side, as you can see the driveshaft connected over on the driver side. So our front passenger side mounting point needs to get cut off. So this is gonna be on the front of the vehicle right next to our electrical connector where we just disconnected. We're gonna use our cutting tool here and we're gonna cut this straight off. Once we have this entire thing cut off, we'll come back and sand it down so it's completely flush.All right, guys, so as you see we just cut off that mounting tab on the passenger side of our differential housing and the goal here isn't to make it look beautiful, the goal here is just give us enough clearance and make this completely flush with the axle housing so it go straight across really flush like this. So now that that's taken care off we want to grind down the edge here just to the left of that mounting tab to give us clearance between the differential housing and the steering rack so that they don't make contact. If you would have left that alone you'd be making contact once everything is bolted up and you don't have to come back later.Now after this long front end uninstall process it's finally time to start installing some of our Fabtech kit parts. We're gonna start with the differential drop brackets at the front end. Now we're starting on the driver side here with the driver side differential drop bracket which is very much side specific, each one is gonna be different. When you pick this one up here they all have their numbers coded in it, you want to follow your instruction manual. It'll tell you exactly which one to pick up, match the numbers and you'll get it right. Now, as you can see it's slanted. There's a taller portion and a shorter portion. The taller portion is gonna be facing the front of your vehicle. The inside that has a split bracket is gonna be facing the outside of your vehicle, so exactly how you see this is how it's gonna go right on. It's gonna come right up here into the factory location just like that.Before we can install our differential drop brackets right on our driver side front end where that would mount there's a little nipple here that we need to cut off. So we're getting our cutting wheel and we're gonna snip this thing off and then grind it down to flatten it out. All right, now since we're exposing more metal we're gonna pick up our paint can again, make sure we hid it with that rust and corrosion-resistant paint. Give that time to dry then we'll throw on our differential drop bracket.All right, it's about we start installing some of the Fabtech components. We're gonna start here with our driver side front differential drop bracket. Now, it's very specific which bracket goes on which side, driver and passenger, and you'll find their serial number embedded in the materials and you want to check and make sure that it's matching what it says in your install manual. It will tell you which numbers go on which side. As you can see holding it just like this toward the inside of the vehicle you'll have that flat portion. You can see that it's elevated on one side. So we have a taller side and a shorter side. Taller side is gonna be facing the front of your vehicle. So it's gonna go up just like this and sit flush, with that nipple we just cut out of the way it'll sit right like this. And we're gonna reuse our factory hardware. Now, the factory hardware is gonna be right into those factory locations. Before we can actually install this hardware, we're actually gonna throw Blue Loctite, just a little bit, just a dab right on the end there. We're gonna do the Blue Loctite dab for every bolt we're putting back into this kit. So you want to make sure you have a set of Blue Loctite on deck before you start installing these. You definitely want to make sure you have those on the bolts so they don't go anywhere. So before we install this throw some Loctite on our bolt. Keep that in mind that this is gonna be for every bolt in the kit.Now that we have this differential drop bracket installed we're gonna torque these bolts to 100-foot-pounds. The passenger side differential drop bracket is gonna go the same way. You want the tall end facing the front end of your vehicle, pop it right over the factory studs and tighten it down with the factory nuts. All right, next up we're gonna raise our differential back up into place. We've got our drop racks in place so it will line up pretty well. Now, I'm using a transmission jack here today simply because it's gonna make life a lot easier. The front diff is extremely heavy. You can't do it by yourself, it's just not possible. Having a helping hand on deck definitely goes a long way but, again, it's really heavy for one person so I definitely recommend a transmission jack. You can always rent one from a local store that might have one or if you're taking it to a shop that is also your best bet. Now, if you're working on the ground it's gonna be a lot harder because you're not gonna have that transmission jack. So I would recommend having the proper tools on deck before you get started but we have the trans jack here. We're gonna lift this back up into place, level it with our drop brackets, get it all squared away and we'll bolt it down.All right, now you want to grab your differential hardware provided to you by Fabtech. You're using new hardware for this, and bolt it up. All right, now we're over here on our passenger side bolting this up. Next up here on our passenger side is gonna be the U-bolt which is gonna go right underneath of our differential housing, we're gonna do half-inch washers on each side and then our nuts. Now we can go back and tighten that down.All right, the next step here is to throw back in your steering rack. Now, this is gonna take a little bit of finesse just like we did when we lifted up our factory diff. We've got it back here on our transmission mount, I'm gonna pump this right back up into position, line up our four bolt holes that are gonna go right into your frame here then, of course, you got the last one for the rack itself. You want to make sure right above the electrical connectors that we just clearanced on the table is lining up properly. If you feel like you need to add more clearance and shave some more off, drop it back down and get back to the grinding. Ours looks like it'll be pretty good so we're gonna raise it up and bolt it up.All right, now that we have our steering rack jacked up a lot higher what we're gonna do is make sure we have all of our harnessing out of the way and not stuck in between the steering rack and the diff housing. So what we're gonna do is feed it over the top here at least this dual harness to plug right into the connectors on our steering rack. That way it's out of the way and in the correct positioning. All right, now we can connect the one for the actuator on the differential housing. All right, so pull that wiring back out of the way so that it's not hanging down in between the actuator and the steering rack. I got my buddy, Ryan, helping me put the Fabtech crossmember and you want to make sure you're using the front one, they are side specific obviously, so we're gonna raise this up in position and this is where you get to test our whether or not your clearancing is just enough when you're doing the grinding earlier. Looks like this would working pretty well so we're gonna slide our factory bolts into place and tighten it down.Back at it on the table here we've got our differential support bracket and as you can see it's got that tubing here and we're gonna insert both of our bushings as well as our little tube here. Now, we want to have PB B'laster on deck here just to make it a little easier to slide the bushing in place so we're just gonna give that a good spray, have that lubed up a little bit. Press the bushing into place. Now, once we have that in place, you can flip it over, tubing is gonna go right in through the middle. Now, a mallet also comes in handy here just to get everything seated properly. Perfect, get that nice and flush. Lube up the other bushing. There we go.All right, now when installing your differential bracket that's gonna go right on to the diff housing just like this. It only goes on one way, it's a very specific shape, and so you're gonna be removing one, two, three bolts from the housing itself. Now, when you're doing that it's a good idea to have a catch can underneath of it like an oil pan just in case it does actually crack open the differential housing, the gear oil will just drip straight out, so you want to kind of be quick about this. You don't want to empty the full diff casing if that is the case. But it does have a gasket and sealant in there so it may not completely open. So we have a catch can underneath of it, got our 15-millimeter socket to remove the three bolts and our 17-millimeter socket to tighten down the new bolts we're gonna be replacing them with.So we're just gonna crack them loose now just to see if that starts to drip out. Looks like we might be in the clear. All right, now we can get these out. Now, guys remember to make sure you're using your Loctite on your bolts, use some kind of threadlock at least. This is a very important step especially when talking about the differential casing. All right, so now that we have the rear crossmember bolted up with the new hardware from Fabtech we're gonna throw the bolt straight through the differential support bracket and we just bolted up to the diff housing. Now that is gonna be a very specific bolt from Fabtech as well, you want to make sure that you have those open holes lined up with the bushings. All right, now you can grab your 15/16 socket as well as your 15/16 wrench, tighten down your crossmember bolts.All right, now it's time to put in our front skid plate protecting that differential. So this is gonna go bolting up to the inside of your front crossmember and to the bottom of the rear. Slide that bolt through the inside, make sure we got our washer and then our nut. All right, now you can grab your 19-millimeter socket and ratchet, hold the bolt head from the top and your 19-millimeter socket for the bottom. All right now grab your 17-millimeter socket and wrench and tighten these front ones down.All right, now we're gonna reinstall our factory lower control arms using the new hardware from Fabtech. It might be a little difficult to get into your new dropped crossmembers with those bushings but you can fight them, slide that bolt through. Grab your 15/16 socket and wrench and tighten down your lower control arm bolts. All right, now we're doing the same thing for the other side. All right, guys, it's actually worth noting here that you might not want to snug these up too, too much otherwise the control arm won't rotate up when it comes time to assemble your brakes, your wheels, and all of that. So, for now, we're just gonna get it nice and snug but leave enough room so that this rotates.All right, it's about time we transfer over our new knuckles from the kit over to our factory hub assembly. You have three 15-millimeter bolts you want to remove. In some cases you may have a knuckle spacer in here. You can discard that along with your factory knuckle. All right, now once you have the new knuckle in place, you want to make sure you're lining up the bolt holes in the knuckle to the open holes on the dust shield then to the open holes on the spindle itself. Now if your bolt holes are covered by your dust shield on some models you may need to trim it, so make sure you have your cutting wheel on deck if that is the case for your truck. All right, now when you're putting the factory bolts back into your new knuckle make sure you're putting on your Loctite and then, of course, torque them down to a 125-foot-pounds. All right, now we've got our torque wrench and our 15-millimeter socket. Set the torque wrench to a 125-foot-pounds and torque them down.All right, the next step here is to install your axle shaft. So we're gonna start on the passenger side. Insert all six bolts along the axle here and then we're gonna swap over and do the other side. Again, make sure you're using some Loctite.We're back here at the table with our factory passenger side coilover and we're gonna start installing our lift components. It's about time, right? So we've got our Fabtech coilover spacer and this will go on a certain way. It's gonna go right on the top but you want to make sure you're orienting it so that the holes match up and they line up properly otherwise...I mean it can only go on one way, so this is gonna be easy to follow. You're gonna use the factory nuts that you used for the top of the coilover to tighten this down. But first, throw on some Loctite.All right, now grab your 18-millimeter deep socket, and I'm gonna use a swivel to make life a little easier and tighten these down. All right, now we're gonna do the same thing for the other coilover. Now, that we have our coilovers assembled with the spacers on the top it's time to assemble them into the truck. All right, then we can throw our washers up top followed by our locknuts. All right, now grab your 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and tighten this down. Since we have our coilover in place on our driver side here the next thing we're gonna do is swing up our lower control arm. Since we left the lower control arm bolts just a little bit loose we're able to swing that up and seat your coilover in the correct position. Gonna hold that up and feed the bolts through the bottom.All right, as you're putting the axle shaft in the knuckle you want to make sure that you have the new axle shaft spacer from Fabtech involved in the kit here. And then, of course, when you're putting it in you'll notice this is a knurled [SP] texture or it is splined so it does go in a certain way. Just make sure it's going in appropriately. All right, now we can install our new spindle or your knuckle onto the driver's side here. Now, of course, make sure that you have all the nuts off of your upper and lower control arms, make sure that you're feeding your axle shaft through the center of the new spindle. Now we can pop our tie rod end into place from the top here and thread that factory nut on through the bottom. All right, now we're gonna torque down all the spindle bolts.All right, at this point we could throw our axle nut back on, make sure you're putting your spacer over top first and then we're gonna use our 36-millimeter socket and air gun to tighten this down. All right, at this point you put your ABS sensor back in, you want to make sure you remove the Torx bolt if you threaded that back through, slide that through the dust shield and then insert the bolt. And we're gonna pick up our rotor, pop that into place. Make sure you're lining up the threading for the retaining bolt to this threading on the hub. All right, now we could finish that off by bolting up our caliper. All right, so now we're connecting our driveshaft, we got it seated into the differential here. Wanna grab the brackets with your two 11-millimeter bolts, feed those through, tighten them down by hand, do the same thing at the top and grab your impact, torque it down. All right, now we can finish up the front end with our front sway bar.All right, so now we're gonna tackle our sway bar drop brackets for the front. These are not side specific, just be mindful that you want the flat side facing the outside of the vehicle. All right, now we can bolt up our factory sway bar. All right, now we can put on our sway bar end links. All right, now repeat for the other side.All right, guys now that we wrapped up the entire front end lifting the truck, now we're gonna start on the rear which is a lot easier, I promise. There's no cutting, there's no grinding, none of that nonsense. It's really a simple bolt-on at the rear end. First off, you want to support the rear axle with two jack stands or two pole jacks right next to the diff, this way when we start removing the load off of that it would be supported, stay in place, and we'll be able to lower the axle down appropriately to fit in our new lift blocks and U-bolts. Before we can do all that though we want to make sure we're clearing all lines. Because we're gonna lower this whole thing 6 inches, we want to make sure that these lines are not gonna be overextended. So first thing's first, we're gonna disconnect our brake line bracket from the differential right here at this bolt. We'll pop that out, remove the brake line and then put the bolt right back through. After that we'll remove the e-brake cable from the top of our frame on the driver side up here and then we'll top it off with another one of these lines connected to the frame. From there we'll be able to start to disconnecting things like our shocks and our U-bolts.All right, now we're back up above the driver side frame here at the rear end to remove the brake line cable of the e-brake cable. All right now that we have our rear end supported on jack stands we're gonna disconnect both of our shocks from the top end. With our shocks disconnected the only thing holding up the rear axle is gonna be these U-bolts and that factory lift block. So what we're gonna do is loosen up all four of these bolts, they're 21-millimeter nuts, and then we're gonna pop our U-bolts off of the factory leaf and pull our factory block outta position. And then we'll do the same thing on the other side and start lowering down the axle. All right, now same thing on the other side.All right, with those U-bolts disconnected we can actually start lowering down the pole jack on this side here and pull out that factory lift block. At this point we can lower down the rear axle enough to put our new lift blocks into place. Now as you know, we have 5-inch lift blocks for the rear so what we're gonna do is lower this down just enough to fit that block into place. You see there's a knob here we want to make sure we're taking into account that that knob has to be cleared as well. So we're gonna lower down a little bit on our driver side, then a little bit on our passenger side, then a little bit on our driver side, you go back and forth, you don't want to do all at once because then your axle is gonna be completely slanted, a little on each side until there's enough clearance on both.All right, so now it's time to put our lift blocks into place on our axles. Now, as you can see it is oriented a certain way, there's a little bit of a nipple at the top end and an indent on the bottom and you can also see that it's taller on one side than it is on the other. So it is gonna go in a certain way, they're not side specific but they're position specific. So you want to make sure that the shorter end is facing the front of the truck and the nipple is on the bottom. This is gonna seat into a hole on the axle and the hole at the top is gonna seat into the nipple on the leaf springs. So short end facing the front, nipple facing the bottom.All right, once you disconnect the e-brake cable from the side of the frame on the driver side you'll be able to align the driver side axle. So now we're gonna install our extended U-bolt. So we're gonna put that factory plate back on the bottom, slide our new sized U-bolt down and into position. You want to make sure you're putting the spacer underneath and then your nut.All right, before we gun these on I wanna make a couple notes. First off, you want to make sure that your U-bolts are seated in the U-bolt seat at the top end here keeping it in position. Secondly, when you bolt down everything with your, you know, impact gun or your ratchet you want to make sure that they're even on every single nut. You want to make sure the same amount of threads are showing through the bottom of the nut. So when you tighten them down tighten them down to the exact same spec. All right, with the studs even on all four corners of your new U-bolts do the same thing for the opposite side with the blocks and U-bolts and then we're gonna install our shocks.All right, now in order to remove your jounce stops here since we're gonna have to extend them you want to grab an extension and a 10-millimeter socket, put it right up through the hole at the bottom and unbolt them. What we're gonna do is drill out the factory welded on a nut in our bump stop location with a 7/16 drill bit. I'm gonna do one size smaller than that and then I'll bump myself up to the 7/16.All right, now we're gonna take our factory jounce stop bolts that we just removed from the vehicle and cut a half-inch off of the threading. All right, now that we cut our factory jounce stop bolt we're gonna insert that into the jounce stop, feed it through the bottom here, use a 10-millimeter socket and extension of the hold that's steady from the inside. We're gonna bolt that to the jounce stop spacer from Fabtech. All right, here we go. Now, we can use our Fabtech hardware to put it through the hole we drilled in the factory location. And now, through this open hole in the frame with your bolt and spacer, feed that through to that open hole that we drilled. All right, once it's on there nice and tight we're good to move on to our shocks.Now, we can install our Fabtech stealth shocks using the factory hardware. Gonna use our factory hardware up through the top first to hold it in place. All right, now we can tighten down our factory bolt. All right, with the top shock bolt in place we've tightened that down with our factory hardware, repeat the same thing for the other side, throw the stealth shock into place, and then we're done. All you have to do is button up a couple of things and by zip tying back your brake lines, making sure the ABS lines aren't gonna get tugged on and then finally, finish it up with the brake line bracket for the e-brake then we're good to go.With all of that said and done, the Fabtech 6-inch Basic Gen II Lift Kit System is available for any '14 to '18 2-wheel and 4-wheel-drive Silverado 1500. You can get yours right here at americantrucks.com.
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Fitment: 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
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(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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