(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com, and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Supreme Suspensions 3.5-Inch Front, 2-Inch Rear Lift Kit, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. You should be checking this out if you're looking to do three things, fit larger wheels and tires on your truck comfortably up to 33 inches, if you're looking for additional ground clearance at the front and rear, and if you're looking to level out your truck's appearance. Now, leveling out your truck's appearance is super easy with a kit like this. You're gonna be looking at the front-end 3.5 inches in the rear 2 inches in order to level out the appearance, getting rid of factory rake while raising the height all around. Now, rake is basically the term from the factory referring to the front-end of the vehicle sitting a little bit lower than the rear to help with towing and hauling applications.Now, if you're not really a fan of that look like most truck owners aren't, you might wanna check out this kit here to help level out that truck perfectly, which this kit does accomplish as you can see here. Now, when it comes to getting additional ground clearance, that is also super easy, adding 3.5 inches of height at the front end is gonna be just enough to get you over some of those smaller on and off-road obstacles and boosting the rear up a little bit does the same thing, especially for your exit angles. Now, when it comes to fitting larger wheels and tires on your Silverado, you know that it's pretty difficult to fit them in those square wheel wells. Now, our truck came with factory 31s. That can differ depending on your package. We're gonna show you guys what this kid looks like with factory 31s and aftermarket 33s to show the fitment.Fitting up the 33s is simple with a leveling kit like this one. Three and a half inches at the front-end is just enough room to fit comfortably 33-inch tires without any rubbing at full lock. Now, with some of the more aggressive mud-terrain tires, you might get some very slight rubbing, especially in reverse in the inner wheel-well liners, but most truck owners will not experience that, and it's something that a lot of truck owners are okay with as well. Now, fitting 35s is something that typically requires 6 inches or higher of lift in order to fit them without rubbing. Thirty fives will fit in your wheel wells but you will experience some rubbing in the wheel well and even the corners of the bumper there.Now, when it comes to the actual kit here, you're gonna get two top spacers for the front-end that'll sit at the top of your factory strut underneath the strut tower. This spacer here is gonna measure in right around 1.5 inches, maybe a little bit over that. Now, even though the kit is 3.5 inches of lift, this in combination with the bottom spacer will work out to 3.5 inches of front lift after suspension geometry and spring compression changes. With that said, the bottom spacer is about a half-inch, so together it's about 2 inches of front spacer, and then again, combine that with your suspension changes, you will result in the 3.5-inch lift. The back-end here is about a 2-inch lift block, of course, to accomplish the 2-inch rear lift. That's pretty straightforward. If your truck did not come with a factory rear lift block, then you'll be getting two inches of rear lift with this spacer. Now, if your truck was like ours and it came with a 1-inch factory lift block, you have to subtract that from the new kit, which is a 2-inch, so your final lift height will be 1 inches in the rear.The spacers for the front top and the rear are billet aluminum with a black anodized finish on top to help with oxidation and corrosion resistance. The bottom spacer for the front is a composite material, which is extremely strong, not gonna crack or break over time, and it's gonna hold up and you won't have to worry about it rusting at all. Because the rear lift blocks are bigger than the factory ones, we've got longer U-bolts to accommodate for that added material. The price tag here comes in right around 300 bucks. Install, I'm giving two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. You can tackle this in the driveway at home. It is a little bit more involved than your simple cold air intake. There is no cutting or drilling or any of that nonsense. It will be a direct bolt-on, but you wanna have some mechanical experience on deck because you are disassembling your suspension at the front and the rear. So you just wanna make sure you're getting it done properly. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, no shame handing it over to a professional. It'll take you about three, maybe four hours from start to finish the knockout all four corners, and then when you're all wrapped up, make sure to be looking up your factory torque specs for your specific year and model, torque down all your bolts. You are gonna need an alignment, so keep that in mind. What do you say we get started?Tools used in the install include an impact gun, air impact gun, 10-millimeter 13-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 17-millimeter, 21-millimeter, and 22-millimeter deep sockets, 8-millimeter hex socket or Allen key, 5.5-millimeter Allen key, 15-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 21-millimeter wrenches, recommended will be a 15-millimeter and 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, flathead screwdriver, pry bar, panel removal tool, and a hammer.All right. Let's kick off the uninstall here. The first thing we wanna do is remove the brake line brackets and the ABS line brackets so that when everything's loose and at full slack or full droop, it's not putting pressure on these lines. There's a 10-millimeter right here and a 10-millimeter right there, so grab your 10 socket and get those two off. Now what I like to do just so we don't lose the bolt is just thread it on a couple of threads right back in the hole while the bracket's loose, that way we know where it is. Same thing back here. Take that bracket off. I'm just gonna lightly thread it back in just like that. All right. Next up we're gonna loosen up the top nut for our sway bar end link. In order to do that, however, just because there's not a whole lot of room to work with, I'm gonna put a 15-millimeter wrench on the nut on top and use my 15 deep socket on the bolt going through the bottom and that'll loosen it up. And just like that. Now, you don't have to take the entire end link straight down. Just wanna grab that nut off the top and if you can, take the bushing off as well and just set those aside.All right. Next up, we're gonna loosen up and remove our tie rod end. Grab your 21-millimeter deep socket and get that guy off. All right. Now, something to keep in mind here is that if you take this off, then this whole thing's gonna start moving. What I'm actually gonna do now that it's loose is just put the tire rod end back in and just put this in a couple of threads. We're gonna want this to be pretty stable for the rest of the uninstall, at least up until the point of the upper control arm coming off. So let's just keep that there for now. Next, we're gonna be loosening up and removing the nut on the bottom of our upper control arm where the ball joint connects to the hub here. Now, in order to do that, you're gonna grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. That's at least what I recommend because there's not a lot of room here. And this is where we want the stability of the tie rod end because we don't want this thing moving back and forth. So let's crack this guy loose.All right. Now, once this is loose, what we're gonna do is take the nut completely off and then thread it back in a couple of threads. All right. So it's on a couple of threads there. Now we can grab a hammer and start tapping on the side to dislodge the ball joint. There it is. So now that we have everything loose, let's take our tie rod end completely off. I'm just gonna put this nut back on so we don't lose it. Now we can swivel this guy out. We're gonna push down and remove the nut here. Once this nut is off, I'm gonna set that guy aside. This upper control arm's gonna pop out, so you just wanna be there to support it. Make sure the lines are out of the way, and now that's free.Now we wanna remove the two bottom strut bolts. They're 17-millimeters. Keep in mind, once these two guys come out, the entire lower control arm is gonna drop down, so just watch your head. The next step here is to remove the top three nuts. They're 18-millimeters, and then the entire strut will come out. Before we can do that, grab a panel removal tool or something similar. There are these little clips holding onto the front stud and then the one closest to the front of the vehicle here on our driver's side. I'm just gonna pop those guys off. Same thing on the opposite side as well. So once you have those off, grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and get those three off. Okay. Once you have all three off, the strut will drop down and you can take it off. Okay. Set it aside. Now, when it comes to the uninstall, you can repeat that exact same process on the other side.Next step here, we have to assemble our spacer. Now, you wanna take the hex bolts included in the kit. You're gonna go through the bottom and just thread these guys into those holes. Now, you don't wanna tighten them down just yet. We're gonna thread all three of them in, and then you're gonna grab a hex socket or Allen key and tighten these guys down. So grab your impact gun and do that now. All right. And this is an 8-millimeter socket. Now we can drop it onto our strut. Next, I'm gonna put my strut up in between my legs just to make it easier, and we're gonna take the spacer and we're gonna rotate this until it drops on just like that. Next, you wanna grab the washers, split washer, and nut included in the kit, and tighten them down to the factory studs.Next, you can grab your 17 socket and tighten those guys down. All right. Now we can throw this back in the truck. Next, take your factory strut with the spacer installed, go up, back into the strut tower. Line it up to the holes at the top. Now I'm gonna take a factory nut. I'm gonna put it on one of the back studs loosely, just to hold this guy in place. Next up I'm gonna be putting our bottom spacer in place from the backend just like this. Now, I'm not reusing the factory hardware. I have new hardware here. Our factory bolts were pretty stripped out so I took the threaded nut off the top, but you can use the factory hardware to go up to the bottom and put the bolts back through. Next, I'm gonna use a hammer to tap my bolt through. Okay. Put the other bolt through and then we'll put our nuts on the bottom.Now, this is gonna be tough to see, but I'm just gonna go right underneath and put our nuts along with a washer on our stud. All right. So I got my nuts on the bottom there. We'll tighten those down in just a second. What I wanna do first is get the upper control arm seated. Next what I'm gonna do is jack up our lower control arm with a hydraulic jack so that we can easily seat our upper control arm. I'm gonna put my pry bar underneath one of the coils so I can pry it down. I'm gonna take the nut off here, other way. Now I'm gonna lift up on the knuckle to seat it. So I gotta pry up, get the stud seat. And with that seated, pry down and push it through and put our nut on. You wanna make sure your ABS line is on top of the upper control arm, not underneath. Next, let's seat our tie rod end. Okay. Tighten down your upper control arm and then the tie rod end. Grab your 21 deep socket and tighten down your tie rod end.Next, grab your socket and wrench and we're gonna tighten down the lower strut bolts. Next, we're gonna do our sway bar end link. Put the rod to the middle. Sleeve is gonna go through the middle here, go up to the top. Put your bushing on, and then your nut. You may need to pry down on the sway bar. If you're doing it simultaneously from the other side, it does make it a lot easier. All right. Put your nut back on top, thread it on a couple of threads, and then tighten it down. Grab your 15 socket and tighten it down along with your wrench. All right. Next up, we can tighten down our top three bolts. Put all three of them in position if you haven't done so already. Grab your 18 ratcheting wrench if that's what you're using and tighten them down. Next, we can worry about our brake lines. Grab your 10 socket, take those bolts back out. Set the bracket back in place, grab your 10 socket and tighten them down. Same thing on the upper control arm. All right. Torque down all your bolts. Repeat on the other side and you're good to go.Moving on to the rear, the first thing I wanna mention here is to properly support your rear axle. Now, because we're using a lift and we're up in the air, I have two pole jacks, one on each side, close to the bottom of the shock there. Now, if you're working on the ground, you wanna make sure you're using a hydraulic jack, in which case, you could put it right underneath the rear diff. If you have a couple of them, you can go on both sides, but the rear diff will be sufficient. At this point everything you do to one side, you simultaneously wanna do to the other. So once you have the weight taken off with it jacked up both on both sides, again, we're using the pole jacks. We're gonna start by removing the bottom shock bolt. But once you remove that, same thing on the other side, and then we'll get to the U-bolts. For this, I'm gonna grab my 21-millimeter deep socket on my impact gun. I'm using air, but you can use a regular cordless impact if you need to or a ratchet. I'm gonna put my 21-millimeter wrench on the bolt head and take this guy off. Now, if your bolt is tight, you wanna jack up just to take the pressure off of that guy and then start working it off. All right. Do the same thing on the other side.All right. Next up, again it's very crucial that you have the weight supported underneath. Again, I'm using pole jacks. This is the absolute part where you need that to happen. You're gonna use your 21 deep socket and we're gonna start removing the bolts on the U-bolts underneath where that cradle is. So we're gonna start taking these guys off. Now, one thing I would recommend is loosening them all the way to where they're just hand-tight. You can pop them off by hand because this guy is gonna start to drop off. So you don't wanna hit all four and then it just falls to the ground. I just like to leave the nuts on a couple of threads so we can easily catch it. I'll just put this guy back on a couple of threads and then just work my way around.Okay. So now we can start picking these guys off. And once you get to the last one, this cradle is gonna come with it. So just pull that guy off with it. Next, we can lift up the factory U-bolts because we'll be replacing them. They're not gonna be long enough for the lifted application. Pull those guys out and set those aside. Now, before we start lowering this side down to replace the factory lift block, we're gonna repeat the exact same thing on the other side and then we'll start swapping them out. All right. From here you can slowly and carefully start lowering these guys down. I recommend lowering them simultaneously, but you can go one after the next. Just make sure you're doing a little bit at a time until it's loose enough to get it out.Now, before moving any further, we did throw a pole jack underneath of our driveshaft just to add some support to it. It starts to slouch backward. I started to put a pole jack there and jacked it up just to support that driveshaft so it doesn't tilt backward. At this point, we can start continuing moving downward. Now, we're already pretty loose. I'm just gonna go a little bit more on both sides. All right. At that point, you can go in, grab that factory block, and slide that guy out. Set that aside, repeat on the other side, and we're gonna move on. Just to give us a little bit more slack on the rear axle, I'm gonna remove the 13-millimeter bolt on the frame here holding up our e-brake cables, that way there's not a lot of tension being put on it. Grab a 13 socket and get that guy off.Once that's off, just lift up that hook from the frame, and now this guy's loose. So we got our factory lift block off of our driver's side of our '14 Silverado, and it's in my hand here next to our Supreme Suspensions 2-inch rear lift block. And there's not a whole lot to talk about in terms of performance here. What I wanna do is visually go through the differences. The factory rear block on our Silverado is looking a little worse for wear. It's got some surface rust going on. This new kit here includes a laser-cut steel block with a nice black glossy powder-coated finish on top. This finish here is gonna help with corrosion and rust resistance, so after a while, it won't end up looking like this. It'll sort of retain its finish without rusting or corroding away.Now, obviously, the sizable difference here is very notable. You're obviously getting a bigger lift with the Supreme Suspension option, a 2-inch lift for the rear. So in my hand, you can clearly see that difference there. Now, when it comes to installing because we have a little bit of a larger block, there are larger U-bolts included in the kit to accommodate for that. So we're no longer gonna be using the factory U-bolts. So what I'm gonna have to do now is toss all the factory components aside with the exception of the bottom cradle and we're gonna install this guy. So let's get to it. Next up we're gonna take that lift block with the knob on the bottom so it seats into the axle. We're gonna slide this guy in. It's gonna seat just like that. Now what we're gonna do is basically jack up on our axle and line up the open hole at the top of the lift block to the knob on the bottom of our leaf springs. You just wanna make sure that seats just like that. And it's not gonna close the gap immediately. You're gonna have to jack up on this and tighten down your U-bolts in order for it to completely close. At this point repeat that exact same thing on the other side before jacking up and then we can move forward.Now, with a pole jack or hydraulic jack on both sides there, we're gonna start jacking this up in order to close the gap. Again, you wanna be doing this simultaneously. All right. So we jacked it up enough that our shock body is lined up there. So let's get our U-bolts in place and tighten that down. Now, for the U-bolts, you wanna make sure they're seating at the top of the leaf springs properly into their location where it was from the factory, right in that little indent. Same thing on both sides. Now, get the bottom cradle and we're gonna tighten that down with the new hardware. All right. Now, that factory cradle, it's gonna go right around those U-bolts.Hold that in place while you grab one of the new washers and nuts and put them on the studs. Now, when you tighten these guys down, you wanna make sure you're doing, is tightening all of these down evenly. You don't want one stud to have more stud showing than the other. You want that to get a good even tightness all the way around. So you might have to do little by little sort of in a star pattern, go one corner to the other, tighten them down. All right. Repeat that on the other side. All right. Last but not least, we can throw that shock body bolt back in right at the bottom of the mount. If it's not lined up, you can manipulate that jack to get it to line up. Now you can grab your 21 socket and wrench and tighten that down. Make sure you're doing that on both sides.Last but not least, we have to put our bolt back in on the side of our frame here that we took off in order to give us a little bit more slack. Hang that guy up. Put the bolt back through and then tighten it down with your 13. At this point, guys, of course, you wanna make sure you're doing everything that you did on the driver's side on the passenger side equally. You wanna look up all the torque specs for your specific year and model because it can differ depending on the year, model, and trim package. Look them up, torque them down, and make sure you get an alignment. From there, you're good to go. That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Supreme Suspensions 3.5-Inch Front, 2-Inch Rear Lift Kit. Get yours right here at americantrucks.com.
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Supreme Suspensions CHSL07FK3520
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(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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