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Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500)

Item S106738
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with, and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front and 2-Inch Rear Lift Kit, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. You should be checking this out if you're looking to accomplish three things: fit larger wheels and tires on your truck up to 33 inches, if you're looking to add some ground clearance to the front and rear of your truck, and if you're looking to level out or even eliminate factory rake. Now, fitting larger wheels and tires on your truck with a stock suspension proves to be pretty difficult with these squared off wheel wells. If you're looking to fit up to 33s, you'll at least need a leveling kit here. With this particular kit, 3 inches in the front is gonna be just enough to allow you to fit up to 33-inch tires comfortably without any rubbing or modification necessary. Now, if you're looking to fit 35s, 35s with a simple leveling kit will rub and require some permanent modification to your wheel well liners and sometimes even your bumper. Now, typically the rule of thumb is anything under a 6-inch lift kit will not be able to fit 35s without modification. Now, our truck came with factory 31s, that can differ depending on your package. We're gonna show you guys what this kit looks like with factory 31s, and aftermarket 33s to show the fitment.Now, in addition to just fitting wheels and tires, you should be checking this out if you're looking to level out your truck's appearance. Off the factory line the truck comes with rake. Rake basically refers to the front suspension sitting lower than the rear to help with towing and hauling applications. Now, not a lot of guys liked the way that that looks from the factory and wanna level things out a little bit, in which case raising the entire truck up the front and rear, but your front a little bit more will level things out like you see here with this kit. Three inches in the front, 2 inches in the rear starts to level out a little bit more. You may have a slight amount of rake but still a lot more even than the factory rake.Fitting this kit on your truck is also gonna help with ground clearance. You're adding 3 inches of space up at the front and 2 inches at the rear. So, you'll be able to go over some of the smaller obstacles on and off-road that you otherwise may not have been able to with the factory suspension. Now, in terms of quality here this entire kit is made from a CNC machine block of billet aluminum with a black powder coated finish on top to help with oxidation and corrosion resistance. Now, this kit here at the front end measures in at around 1-5/8 inches. Now, that combined with the changes in suspension geometry and spring compression will result in a final lift height of 3 inches. Now, the rear blocks are pretty much a one to one ratio. This is a 2-inch block that results in a 2-inch amount of lift, just something to keep in mind.Now, the price tag for this guy comes in right around 250 bucks. Install I'm giving two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It does not require any drilling or permanent modification but it is more involved than say a cold air intake. I'm going to walk you guys through the entire process, it will take you about four hours to knock out all four corners. What do you say we get started?Tools used in the install include an impact gun, air impact gun, 10-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 17-millimeter, 21-millimeter and 22-millimeter deep sockets, 8-millimeter hex socket or Allen key, 5.5-millimeter Allen key, 15-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 21-millimeter wrenches. Recommended will be a 15-millimeter and 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, flathead screwdriver, pry bar, panel removal tool, and a hammer.All right, let's kick off the install here. The first thing we wanna do is remove the brake line brackets and the ABS line brackets so that when everything is loose and at full slack or full droop, it's not putting pressure on these lines. There's a 10-millimeter right here and a 10-millimeter right there. Let's grab your 10 socket to get those 2 off. Now, what would I like to do just so we don't lose the bolt is just thread it on a couple of threads right back in the hole while the bracket's loose, that way we know where it is. Same thing back here, get that bracket off. I'm just gonna lightly throw it back in, just like that.All right, next up, we're gonna loosen up the top nut for our sway bar end link. In order to do that, however, just because there's not a whole lot of room to work with, I'm gonna put a 15-millimeter wrench on the nut on top and use my 15 deep socket on the bolt going through the bottom, and that'll loosen it up. Just like that. Now, you don't have to take the entire end link straight down, just wanna grab that nut off the top, and if you can, take the bushing off as well and just set those aside. All right, next up, we're going to loosen up and remove our tie rod end, grab your 21-millimeter deep socket and get that guy off. Now, something to keep in mind here is that if you take this off, then this whole thing is gonna start moving. What I'm actually gonna do now that it's loose is just put the tie rod end back in and just put this in a couple of threads. We're gonna want this to be pretty stable for the rest of the install, at least up until the point of the upper control arm coming off. So, let's just keep that there for now.Next we're gonna be loosening up and removing the nut on the bottom of our upper control arm where the ball joint connects to the hub here. Now, in order to do that, you're gonna grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. That's at least what I recommend because there's not a lot of room here. And this is where we want the stability of the tie rod end because we don't want this thing moving back and forth. So, let's crack this guy loose. All right, now once this is loose, what we're gonna do is take the nut completely off and then thread it back in a couple of threads. All right, so it's on a couple of threads there, and now we can grab a hammer and start tapping on the side to dislodge the ball joint. There it is. So, now that we have everything loose, let's take our tie rod end completely off. I'm just gonna put this nut back on so we don't lose it. Now we can swivel this guy out, gonna push down and remove the nut here. Okay, once this nut is off, I'm gonna set that guy aside. This upper control arm is gonna pop out, so you just wanna be there to support it. Make sure the lines are out of the way and now that's free.Now we wanna remove the two bottom strut bolts, they're 17-millimeters. Keep in mind once these two guys come out, the entire lower control arm is gonna drop down, so just watch your head. The next step here is to remove the top 3 nuts, they're 18-millimeters, and then the entire strut will come out. Before we can do that, grab a panel removal tool or something similar, there are these little clips holding onto the front stud and then the one closest to the front of the vehicle here on our driver side, just gonna pop those guys off, same thing on the opposite side as well. So, once you have those off, grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and get those 3 off. Okay, once you have all three off, the strut will drop down and you can take it off. Okay, set it aside. Now, when it comes to the uninstall, you can repeat that exact same process on the other side.First up for the assembly, grab the hex bolts included in the kit, we're gonna go right through the bottom there just like that into the larger holes and start threading them by hand. From there, you wanna grab your 8-millimeter hex key or Allen key, you're gonna tighten it down. Now we can drop it on the top of our strut. Next up you wanna take your strut, I like to put it between my legs just to stabilize it. We're gonna drop a spacer right on top, it only goes on one way. Once you do have it on, drop the nuts included in the kit onto the factory studs. Grab your 17-millimeter deep socket and tighten them down. All right, now we can install the strut back into the truck.Now you can take your struct, feed it up into the strut tower and use your factory bolts and tighten it down. I'm just gonna put one factory bolt on there lightly just to hold it in place. Now we can put a jack underneath of the lower control arm. Now, our factory bottom strut bolts did strip out, so we have to replace them. I'm gonna be replacing them with a bolt just like this and then nut on the bottom. So, with that said, I popped off the threaded nut on top and we're just no longer gonna be using that, I'm gonna be going through the bottom. Now, if you're using your factory bolts and they're in good condition, you wanna go up to the bottom and tighten them down to the bottom of the strut. But again, we're replacing our hardware, so I'm just going to do that now. So, we lifted the car up in the air just to get a better angle at it, giving this guy a couple of final taps and then we'll put our nut on the bottom. All right, so now we can tightening that down. All right, 17 socket and wrench and tighten that down. Same thing for the other bolt. All right, so now I can tap the other guy in the place and tighten it down.Next up, we're gonna focus on our upper control arm. I'm going to put a pry bar on top of it underneath of the coil to help pry down. I'm gonna take this nut off here, lift up the knuckle, set it into place, pry down, and put the nut underneath. All right, now I do have a jack underneath of our lower control arm to help push that upward, so that way we get enough threads underneath. Now we can tighten that down. In order to prevent our upper control arm ball joint from spinning, I'm gonna set our tie rod end into place to hold the knuckle steady, put the nut underneath. All right, next up, I know it might be tough to see but we're gonna tighten down that upper control arm nut. If you need to hold that steady, you're gonna use this Allen key in the tip of the stud. You're gonna put your 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench on there first, and feel your way up to put the Allen key in place. Now we can tighten it down. Next, grab your 21 socket and tighten down your tie rod end.Next we can do our sway bar end link. Put your end link through the bottom sleeve in the middle. And it looks like we're gonna need to pry up on our sway bar in order to get the sleeve to fit on the inside. So, let's grab a pry bar to pry that up. Put your bushing on and then the nut on top, and then we'll tighten it down with our 15 socket and wrench. Next we can do the three nuts at the top of the strut tower. If you haven't already put those on, you can put them on now. Grab your 18 and tighten it down. Before we move on, you wanna make sure you're torquing down all of your bolts to your factory spec per your trim package and year range, and then we can move on to the rear.Moving on to the rear, the first thing I wanna mention here is to properly support your rear axle. Now, because we're using a lift and we're up in the air, I have two pole jacks, one on each side, close to the bottom of the shock there. Now, if you're working on the ground, you want to make sure you're using a hydraulic jack, in which case you can put it right underneath the rear diff. If you have a couple of them, you can go on both sides, but the rear diff will be sufficient. At this point, everything you do to one side you simultaneously wanna do to the other. So, once you have the weight taken off with it jack upped on both sides, again we're using the pole jacks, we're gonna start by removing the bottom shock bolt. Once you remove that, same thing on the other side, and then we'll get to the U-bolts. For this, I'm going to grab my 21-millimeter deep socket on my impact gun. I'm using air but you can use a regular cordless impact if you need to or a ratchet. I'm gonna put my 21-millimeter wrench on the bolt head and take this guy off. Now, if your bolt is tight, you wanna jack up just to take the pressure off of that guy, and then start working it off. All right, do the same thing on the other side. All right, next up, again, it's very crucial that you have the weight supported underneath. Again, I'm using pole jacks, this is the absolute part where you need that to happen. You're gonna use your 21 deep socket and we're gonna start removing the bolts on the U-bolts underneath where that cradle is. So, we're gonna start taking these guys off. Now, one thing I would recommend is loosen them all the way to where they're just hand-tight, you can pop them off by hand, because this guy is gonna start to drop off. So you don't want to hit all four and then it just fall to the ground. I just like to leave the nuts on a couple of threads so we can easily catch it. I'll just put this guy back on a couple of threads and then just work my way around. Okay, so now we can start taking these guys off. And once you get to the last one, this cradle is gonna come with it, so just pull that guy off with it. Next we can lift up the factory U-bolts because we will be replacing them, they're not gonna be long enough for the lifted application. Pull those guys out and set those aside.Now, before we start lowering this side down to replace the factory lift block, we're gonna repeat the exact same thing on the other side, and then we'll start swapping them out. All right, from here you can slowly and carefully start lowering these guys down. I recommend lowering them simultaneously, but you can go one after the next, just make sure you're doing a little bit at a time until it's loose enough to get it out. Now, before moving any further, we did throw a pole jack underneath of our driveshaft just to add some support to it. It starts to slouch backward. I started to put a pole jack there and jacked it up just to support that driveshaft so it doesn't tilt backward. At this point we can start continuing moving downward. Now, we're already pretty loose, I'm just gonna go a little bit more on both sides. All right, at that point, you can go in, grab that factory block, and slide that guy out. Set that aside. Repeat on the other side, and we're good to move on.Just to give us a little bit more slack on the rear axle, I'm gonna remove the 13-millimeter bolt on the frame here holding up our E-brake cables. That way, there's not a lot of tension being put on it. Grab a 13 socket and get that guy off. Once that's off, just lift up that hook from the frame and now this guy's loose. It's in my hand here next to our Supreme Suspensions 2-inch rear lift block, and there's not a whole lot to talk about in terms of performance here. What I wanna do is visually go through the differences. The factory rear block on our Silverado is looking a little worse for wear. It's got some surface rust going on. This new kit here includes a laser cut steel block with a nice black glossy powder-coated finish on top. This finish here is gonna help with corrosion and rust resistance. So, after a while, it won't end up looking like this, it'll sort of retain its finish without rusting or corroding away. Now, obviously, the sizeable difference here is very notable, you're obviously getting a bigger lift with the Supreme Suspension option, a 2-inch lift for the rear. So, in my hand, you can clearly see that difference there. Now, when it comes to installing, because we have a little bit of a larger block, there are larger U-bolts included in the kit to accommodate for that. So, we're no longer gonna be using the factory U-bolt. So, what I'm gonna have to do now is toss all the factory components aside with the exception of the bottom cradle, and we're gonna install this guy. So, let's get to it.Next up, we're gonna take that lift block with the knob on the bottom, so it seats into the axle. I'm gonna slide this guy in, it's gonna seat just like that. Now what we're gonna do is basically jack up on our axle, and line up the open hole at the top of the lift block to the knob on the bottom of our leaf springs. You just wanna make sure that seats just like that. And it's not gonna close the gap immediately, you're gonna have to jack up on this and tighten down your U-bolts in order for it to completely close. But at this point, repeat that exact same thing on the other side before jacking up, and then we can move forward. Now, with a pole jack or hydraulic jack on both side there we're gonna start jacking this up in order to close the gap. Again, you wanna be doing this simultaneously.All right, so we jacked it up enough that our shock body is lined up there. So let's get our U-bolts in place and tighten that down. Now, for the U-bolts, you wanna make sure their seating at the top of the leaf springs properly into their location where it was from the factory, right in that little indent. Same thing on both sides. Now, get the bottom cradle, and we're gonna tighten it down with the new hardware. All right, now that factory cradle is gonna go right around those U-bolts. Hold that in place while you grab one of the new washers and nuts and put them on the studs. What you wanna make sure you're doing is tightening all these down evenly. You don't want one stud to have more stud showing than the other. You want that to get a good even tightness all the way around. So, you might have to do a little by little sort of in a star pattern, go one corner to the other, tighten them down. Let's do that next. All right, repeat that on the other side. All right, last but not least, we can throw that shock body bolt back in right at the bottom of the mount. If it's not lined up, you can manipulate that jack to get it to line up. Now you can grab your 21 socket and wrench and tighten that down. Make sure you're doing that on both sides.Last but not least, we have to put our bolt back in on the side of our frame here that we took off in order to give us a little bit more slack. Hang that guy up, put the bolt back through, and then tighten it down with your 13. At this point, guys, of course you wanna make sure you're doing everything that you did on the driver side on the passenger side equally. You wanna look up all the torque specs for your specific year and model because it can differ depending on the year, model, and trim package. Look them up, torque them down, and make sure you get an alignment. From there, you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my review and install of the Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front, 2-Inch Rear Lift Kit, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. Get yours right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Suspension 3-Inch Front and 2-Inch Rear Lift Kit
      • Accurately Lifts and Levels Suspension for a Customized Ride
      • Heavy-Duty and Corrosion-Resistant Manufacture
      • Covered by Lifetime Limited Warranty
      • Expert-Level Installation
      • Sold as a Kit
      • Fits All 2007–2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Models


      Accurately Lifts and Levels Suspension for a Customized Ride. Give your Chevrolet Silverado 1500 the lift and leveling it needs with the Supreme Suspensions 3 inch Front / 2 inch Rear Pro Lift Kit. With 3 inches in the front and 2 inches in the back, your truck will not only have a more aggressive stance, but it will also drive more confidently on any given terrain.

      Heavy-Duty and Corrosion-Resistant Manufacture. The components that comprise this kit are CNC machined from solid 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum blocks to ensure that they will not compress or bend even when payload is maximized on the truck. Plus, with an anodized coating, each part is maximized for resisting rust.

      Covered by Lifetime Limited Warranty. Supreme Suspensions warranties that this Lift Kit will be free from manufacture and material defects for as long as you own the truck on which it is installed.

      Expert-Level Installation. This Lift Kit requires an expert level of technical skill to install, which can take up to 6 hours of your time.

      Application. The Supreme Suspensions 3 inch Front / 2 inch Rear Pro Lift Kit fits all 2007–2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models. It is sold as a kit.

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      Supreme Suspensions CHSL07FK3020

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