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ICON Vehicle Dynamics 2-2.5 in. Suspension Lift System - Stage 5 (15-20 4WD F-150, Excluding Raptor)

Item T532806
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$3,949.60 (kit)

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      Review & Installation Video

      Hey, guys, Sara for americantrucks.com, and today we have a review and install of the ICON Vehicle Dynamics 2 to 2.5-inch stage 5 suspension lift system, fitting your '15 through '19 four-wheel-drive drive F-150s, excluding the Raptor. This suspension lift kit offers customizable ride height, featuring superb balance and handling. The shock bodies are constructed from CNC machined aircraft-grade aluminum components, and feature cad plated steel shafts. This kit was engineered for 33X11.5-inch tires, and will work with 8 to 9-inch wheels with 5 inches of backspacing, but this will also work with your factory wheels and tires. This kit also includes tubular upper control arms with ICON's Delta Joint heavy duty ball joints.Coming in at around $3,900, this is the top of the line option as far as lift solutions for your F-150. The front suspension that is included in this kit is a coilover strut assembly, meaning you will not need any specialty tools, like a spring compressor, to install. This also features one of the most adjustable front suspensions that you can get, and is also constructed from premium materials, meaning you're gonna get the best possible ride with the lift kit. I'm giving this install a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, it can be done in approximately one day. It will require some minor drilling in order to fit the reservoir up front here, as well as some minor grinding to clearance the rear shocks. But if you're up for the challenge, it's a fairly straightforward install. With that said, let's jump right into our install.For this install, we used a hammer, a rubber mallet, a drill, flat-head screwdriver, 1/8-inch and 11/32 drill bit, a center punch, a sharpie, a socket set ranging from 8-millimeter to 27-millimeter, a 5 and 6-millimeter Allen key socket, an extension, 9/16 socket, 5/8 socket, a small pry bar, impact guns, spray paint, a grinder, a ratchet, wrenches ranging from 8-millimeter to 21-millimeter, as well as a 1-1/16 wrench, caliper hanger tool, grease, safety glasses, and a vacuum pump.All right. So the first step in our uninstall is to grab your 18-millimeter socket and loosen the nuts on either side of your sway bar end link. Using our 18-millimeter socket, loosen the nut on the bottom of our end link. All right. So, with the nut off the bottom of our sway bar end link we can now move on to the next step. If, for some reason, you wanna remove it completely to get it out of the way, or it's binding up on you, you can definitely take the nut off the top as well, but it should be free from our lower control arm, which is what we're trying to do. So, with our 10-millimeter socket, we're gonna loosen the bracket holding in our brake line to our knuckle. With our 8-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the bolt holding in our ABS line. With our 21-millimeter socket, we're now gonna loosen the nut on the end of our outer tie rod. With our outer tie rod disconnected, we can lift it out of the knuckle, and now we can turn our entire knuckle to expose the back of our brake caliper. Grabbing your 21-millimeter socket, you can now get to the back of the brake caliper a little bit easier.So, now you wanna move your brake line out of the way since it is disconnected, grab your 21-millimeter socket and remove the brake caliper from the knuckle. Since the bolts are out, you wanna support your caliper, grab a hanger tool or a bungee cord, whatever you have, and hang your caliper out of the way. At this point, we're gonna remove our brake rotor. To do this, it might not wanna come off right away, you may need a rubber mallet, and if you're going to hit it, I would also suggest putting a lug nut on just in case, because you don't want this to fall on you. When you're hitting it, you wanna hit right on the backside here, where the dust shield is not, and also may help to reconnect your outer tie rod temporarily, just put a couple threads on that nut, just to hold the knuckle in place while you're hitting it.All right. Let's get started. Remove your lug nut and remove your brake rotor. At this point, we're gonna remove our dust shields to give us better access to our ABS sensor. Grab an 8-millimeter socket and small extension, and pull these bolts out. Using a 5-millimeter Allen socket, remove your ABS sensor from the knuckle. At this point, we're gonna remove the dust shield to expose our axle nut, this is because we're gonna take our entire knuckle out and out of the way, it's gonna make removing our suspension a whole lot easier. So, with a flat-head and a hammer, gently tap around the edge of this, be careful not to bend this because this will need to go back on the truck. And, sort of, move around, hit it from different angles, and it will loosen up. You may have to work this back and forth quite a bit to get it loose, sometimes they don't wanna come out nicely.At this point, we're gonna remove the upper ball joint from our knuckle. Grab your 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and remove the nut. With our nut loose but not completely removed from our ball joint, we will need to hit the knuckle with a hammer here in order to shock the ball joint loose, then we're gonna want to grab a pry bar and gently release the upper control arm from the knuckle. We have one of our smaller pry bars just because we have a little bit of clearance issues in the wheel well, but there's not a ton of tension on the upper control arm, so it should work fine. Release your upper control arm from the knuckle. At this point, we're gonna loosen but not completely remove the nut holding our lower ball joint in. Grab your 21-millimeter socket and loosen this up. Before we remove our axle, we are gonna wanna put some vacuum on this vacuum line back here. This is important on Fords, because this is how your four-wheel-drive engages, and we don't wanna damage just removing it. We'll give you a closer look once we have our knuckle off of our truck.So, we're removing the vacuum line at the back of our knuckle, and we wanna stick our vacuum pump on the larger port here. We're gonna pull 24 pounds of vacuum on this, and this is gonna disengage our four-wheel-drive, because when our truck is stopped, it's engaged currently, and we don't wanna tear a small diaphragm at the back of our axle. Set this off to the side, careful that it doesn't lose its vacuum, and now we're gonna grab a 13-millimeter socket and loosen our axle nut. With our axle nut loose and our vacuum on, we can loosen this nut that's holding the bottom of our knuckle in, and if we've done the vacuum properly, it should pull right out of the axle. So, it may not look like a lot, but watch the gear teeth here when we're pulling vacuum on it, you might see a small amount of movement. And then if you look right there when the vacuum is released, you can see the teeth move. And although that doesn't seem like a lot, that can definitely damage your four-wheel-drive, and you don't wanna do that. So, you definitely wanna use this tool to pull the vacuum and be able to remove your axle properly.All right. So, this next step is optional, but it's gonna make your life a whole lot easier. Since we already need an alignment from doing our upper control arm and suspension, we're gonna loosen the bolts of the back of our lower control arm as well, so that it can fall out of place and we can just easily remove our shock. But before we do this, we will mark the position of the bolts, so that when we loosen them we can, kind of, get them, ballpark, back where they need to be. But you will still need that alignment immediately after this. So, let's grab our sharpie, we'll also need a 27-millimeter and 21-millimeter wrench. We're gonna mark these bolts on both sides and in two places, we're gonna mark, sort of, where it lines up for our alignment, and we're also gonna mark around the outside edge, because this is slotted in the frame, and it can move back and forth as well. With our 21-millimeter wrench on the far side of our bolt, and our 27-millimeter socket on the nut, loosen these up. Repeat that step on the other side of the control arm.At this point, we can remove our lower shock bolts with an 18-millimeter socket. Now, we can remove the nuts on the top of our shock, we wanna use an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. All right. With our two back nuts removed and our front nut loose, we can now push the lower control arm out of the way to make room for our shock to come out. Now, we can remove our nut completely. Grab your 21-millimeter wrench and 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and remove our control arm from the truck.All right. Now that we have our factory components uninstalled from our truck, we can put it side-by-side with our ICON kit, really check out some of the differences. Now, this kit includes a vehicle-specific tuned 2.5-inch adjustable coilover shock, as well as a remote reservoir that ICON has designed to hold additional fluid and aid in cooling. They've also engineered an Eibach spring for exceptional vehicle feel all the way through the range of travel. So, this ICON kit comes with a ton of adjustability, from the right height adjustability on our shock, to the adjustability of the compression, thanks to the CDC valve that they've designed in their reservoir.Now to take a look at the control arms themselves. This is a tubular upper control arm that ICON has included, which is gonna be a lot stronger, a lot more durable than our factory control arm. They also have a Delta Joint ball joint that they've included in here, which has much more angle than a factory ball joint, and is also much more durable. Not to mention, they also include push-in bushings that are fully greaseable. So, speaking of our bushings, the first step in the install is to go get these pressed in.So ICON calls out greasing the entire assembly here that's gonna be pushed into our control arm, so we're gonna start with the sleeve. Make sure you get a decent amount of grease on each side of this, and go ahead and flip it around, and grease the other side. Now, grab one of either end of the bushings and press the sleeve into the bushing. And then we're also gonna grease this inside shelf of the bushing as well just a little bit. All right. Once we're satisfied with the grease, you do wanna pull one end off of this. With our bearings adequately greased, go ahead and get them started in the control arm, you don't have to press them all the way in like this, just because we are gonna use the vise to make our life a little bit easier, but just getting them started can definitely help. All right. With that started, open up your vise, just so you have it centered in there, and we're not really putting a ton of pressure on this or collapsing it at all, we're just pressing it to make it a little easier. All right. Now, repeat that on the other side.At this point, with our bushings in, we can now install our grease fittings. Grab a 10-millimeter wrench and let's get these in. Go ahead and begin to thread these into the control arm. These are tapered, so you definitely don't want to overtighten. Grab your 10-millimeter wrench, and get them nice and snug. If you have a little extra room, you do wanna try to point these forward towards your ball joint, just so there's ease in moving these later. So, one more thing worth mentioning is that, on the other side of the ball joint in our upper control arm, they have included a flush mount grease fitting. You can definitely leave that one in there. But they've also included a more traditional grease fitting, if you only have this type of gun and you would like to swap those out, but we're gonna leave this one in here for now. Let's get it installed.All right. Now, we can get our new ICON control arm installed on our truck. Something to point out, it is pretty handy that they include driver and passenger side stickers on there, just to take some of the guesswork out of it. But let's line it up onto our frame and get it installed. All right. With our control arm in place, grab your factory hardware and get it through our control arm. It may take a little bit of maneuvering to get the holes lined up, but once you have them, go ahead and tighten them down a little bit. Get your hardware installed just enough to hold the control arm on, we're gonna tighten this down later. Grab your 21 and 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, we're gonna tighten this down enough to hold our control arm in, we're gonna do a final tightness check once the truck is on the ground.Now, we can install our shock. Make sure that the fitting on the shock is facing forward so we can mount our reservoir ahead of this when we're finished. Go ahead and line it up with this supplied hardware, and make sure you grab a lock washer. Once our shock is lined up, grab the provided hardware and thread it into the top of your shock. Once you've threaded it in by hand enough to hold it in place, grab the rest of your hardware and get these tightened down. Grab your 9/16 socket and tighten these down.All right. With our shock in place and tight on the top bolts, we can now get our lower control arm, sort of, in the neighborhood of where we want it to be. You wanna line up the bolts to the marks you made before, and tighten them down snug enough to keep the control arm in place right here so we can get our lower shock bolts in. So, now we can line up the mark we made on the outside of our bolt. We don't wanna line up the mark we made on the inside just yet, because that one is gonna be, sort of, how tight we want it, this one is, sort of, forward and back. So, line it up to the sharpie mark we made earlier, right around where we wanna be to make your alignment guy's life a little easier. Grab your 21-millimeter wrench and 27-millimeter socket, and get these nice and snug. Go ahead and repeat that process on the other side, making sure our control arm is nice and tight.So, if the angle of your threaded holes on the bottom of your shock are just not lining up to this control arm down here, you can grab a 1-1/16 wrench, and just put it on this section here, and just, very gingerly, get the angle that you're looking for. Once you are satisfied with that, grab the provided hardware and the washer, and get it threaded into the bottom of your shock. Grab a 5/8 socket and get these tightened down.At this point, we can reinstall our knuckle, and I would mention that if this reservoir is getting in your way, you can definitely zip-tie it up to the side for now, just so that you're not fighting it when you're installing your knuckle. So, go ahead and grab it. We have already pulled our 24 pounds of vacuum, just because we will be getting our axle lined up and we don't wanna be fighting those gears. Once we have it, sort of, in place and, kind of, supported, grab the nut for your lower ball joint, and get this threaded on a little bit so it holds it out of your way and you're not fighting it the whole time. With our ball joint holding in the bottom of our knuckle, go ahead and seat our axle. It is important to make sure that you're still pulling vacuum, because we don't wanna damage our four-wheel-drive that we took a look at earlier.With most of our threads exposed on the end of our axle, we can grab our nut and thread this on for now. Our axle isn't completely in the back of our knuckle, we will have to maneuver it a little bit until it is, but this will, at least, help it from falling back out while you're working with it. With our axle in place, grab your 13-millimeter socket and tighten down your axle nut. Make sure you release vacuum and remove the tube. Also, make sure you reinstall the factory line going to this vacuum port.With our axle in place, we can now reinstall our upper ball joint. Get it lined up and then pull down on your control arm, you may use a pry bar if it's a little too tough. With the upper ball joint nut hand-tight at this point, we're gonna tighten down our lower ball joint, just because we want our knuckle to be seated where, eventually, it will sit, and then we have to use a wrench on this one because we can't get a socket on it. So, grab your 21-millimeter socket and tighten down your lower ball joint. With your 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench, tighten down your upper ball joint. If it starts to spin, grab a 10-millimeter wrench and hold the bottom of the ball joint so that you can get it tight. We're gonna reinstall our ABS sensor at the front of our knuckle. Grab the Allen bolt and reinstall that. With your 5-millimeter Allen socket, tighten down this bolt. With our sensor back in place, we can now replace our dust shield. And with our 8-millimeter socket, we can tighten these down.At this point, we can replace our brake rotor, and go ahead and stick a lug nut on one of these studs, just to make sure it stays on here while we grab our caliper. Unhang your caliper and get it back in place on the rotor. Grab your bolts and get them threaded back into your caliper. With both your bolts in place, grab your 21-millimeter socket and get these tightened down. At this point, reconnect your sway bar end link, and tighten it down with your 18-millimeter socket. At this point we can reconnect our outer tie rod. Grab a 21-millimeter wrench and a 10-millimeter wrench, and just hold the bottom part of this so that you can tighten it down.At this point, we can reconnect our brake line bracket to our knuckle. Make sure it's seated with this pin in this hole here, and then replace your hardware. Grab your 10-millimeter socket and tighten it down. And finally, get your ABS line and get it back in place on your knuckle, replace your factory hardware. Grab an 8-millimeter socket and tighten it down.At this point, we can mount the bracket that's gonna hold our reservoir in place, we want it to land right about this general area. I recommend lining it up, making sure that the reservoir is not gonna hit anything before you start drilling. Once you're happy with where it lines up, can grab a center punch or a marker, and just mark right where you want your drill to go. We can now grab our center punch and mark where we want to drill.All right. We grabbed an 1/8-inch drill bit in order to drill a pilot hole, might be a good idea to hit this with some lubricant or drilling oil just to make it a little bit easier on our drill bit. Aiming for the center punch hole, let's drill our pilot hole. With our pilot hole drilled, grab your 11/32 drill bit and drill the hole for our self tapper. So, you wanna wipe some of the metal away from the hole that we drilled, just so it doesn't get hung up on our self tapper. Go ahead and begin to thread the self tapper in, just ensure it goes in straight. Once it's nice and snug in there, grab your 9/16 socket and tighten it down. Now we can pull it out and grab our bracket.So, I recommend tucking at least one of these hose clamps on the bracket before you put this on here, because they can be a little bit difficult to get on once the bracket is seated on your truck. So, we're gonna start with the top one, have this part facing out so it's easy to get to you once it's on. Thread your bolt back in. At this point, we can put our second hose clamp over the top of our reservoir in order to have it in the right spot, and now we can tuck our reservoir into the top hose clamp. Double check that it sits in the right spot and it's not hitting anything, and then we can tighten down the top hose clamp. Grab your bottom hose clamp, make sure it's over the other side of the bracket, and now we can tighten this one as well. Make sure you place the factory dust shield over your axle nut. Once it's in place, you may wanna hit it just a couple times gently with a mallet to seat it in place. So, once that is done, you wanna repeat the process on the other side. And once both sides are complete, lower the truck onto the ground and make sure to tighten your upper and lower control arm bolts. But for now, let's hop to the rear.With our axle supported on both sides of the rear diff, we can remove the bolt at the bottom of our shock using an 18-millimeter wrench and a 15-millimeter socket. So, for the top of our shock, since we have a flag nut on the back here, we only need a 15-millimeter socket, then we can remove this bolt and then our shock. Repeat that process for the bottom bolt on the other side. For the passenger side upper, you will need to get an 18-millimeter wrench on the other side because there is no flag nut, but grab your 15-millimeter socket and take the bolts out at the top.All right. With our uninstall complete, we can now put our rear shock side-by-side with our ICON shock and compare the two. This ICON shock features a vehicle-specific tune, as well as a 7/8 shaft. It also features this piggyback reservoir that ICON has included, to add some extra fluid and aid in cooling. It also features a CDC valve for quick compression adjustments.All right. So, before we can install our shock, we do need to do a little bit of grinding on this point here, we're grinding this down for adequate top cap clearance throughout our travel. So, grab a grinder. So, we wanna take this ear off right here, just so we have a little more clearance on the top of our shock. Once you're satisfied with how much you ground out of the front part of this bracket, you're also gonna need to take a little bit out of the second one as well, just to ensure there's clearance on both sides. All right. Now that we're satisfied with how much we ground off of our truck, you may wanna grab a little bit of spray paint and just spray those areas in order to prevent some rust down the road.All right. With our paint drying on our passenger side, let's get our driver side shock installed. When you're installing this shock, make sure the reservoir is on the far side, away from the axle. Let's grab our 15-millimeter socket and tighten this down. All right. So, at this point, we need to compress the bottom of the shock a little bit in order to get it seated in our bracket. Just make sure that both sides of your sleeve are still installed at this point and they didn't fall out while you were doing the top. With the help of a pry bar or a friend, get his bottom part in place and the bolt through, and now we can tighten it down. Grab your 18-millimeter wrench and 15-millimeter socket and tighten this down.Next up, we will need to remove the bracket that's holding our parking brake line onto the axle, and we will wanna remove it from the bracket while it's still bolted to the axle, because it will be a little easier than unbolting it first. Getting your pry bar right in between the gap and the bracket, pry down in order to open this gap up to slip our line out. At this point, we can remove the 10-millimeter bolt holding on our bracket.At this point, we can install our passenger side shock. Make sure you slide it behind our parking brake line and up into place. With our 15-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench, get this top bolt tightened down. Using a pry bar, compress the shock enough to slide it into place. With the help of a pry bar, get the bolt in place at the bottom of your shock. Before you tighten this down, ensure that your shock body is clear of the leaf spring. Grab your 15-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench, and tighten this down. If, for some reason, your shock is not clocked properly and looks like it's gonna contact the leaf spring, loosen the top bolt, twist your shock body out until it clears, and then tighten it back up. Hook your new bracket around your parking brake line, and then line it up so that the tab on the bottom goes underneath this part right here. Grab your factory hardware, grab your 10-millimeter socket and tighten this down. All right. With our bracket tightened down, make sure all the other bolts are torqued to factory spec. And then that's gonna do it for the review and install of our ICON lift kit. Remember, for all things Ford, keep it at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • 2-2.5-Inch Suspension Lift Kit
      • Customizable Ride Height Offers Superb Balance and Handling
      • Raises Ground Clearance and Caster Higher than Stock
      • CNC-Machined Aircraft Grade Aluminum Components
      • Shock Bodies Made Out of Corrosion Resistant CAD Plated 7/8” Polished Nitro Steel Shafts
      • Engineered for 33” x 11.5” Tires
      • Works with Wheels with 4.75” Backspace
      • No Cutting or Drilling on Installation
      • Includes Warranty
      • Fits All 2015-2020 Ford F-150 4WD Models, Excluding Raptors

      Description

      Superior Suspension Lift System. The ICON Vehicle Dynamics 2-2.5-Inch Stage 5 Suspension Lift System is made to provide superior comfort and handling in various driving situations. It comes with adjustable coilover shocks to allow the use of larger wheel and for a more customizable ride clearance. What’s more, it’s engineered from aircraft grade aluminum to ensure long-lasting durability.

      Highly Durable Coil Springs. For the best riding comfort possible, this ICON Stage 5 Suspension Lift System comes with highly-durable coil springs which improve vehicle “feel” even on rough terrains. The springs are sturdy and guaranteed to resist sagging to ensure superb comfort and handling for many miles ahead.

      Durable Upper Control Arms. This suspension lift system includes durable Uniball upper control arms which add to your vehicle’s strength. They’re also designed to retain your truck’s alignment range and to increase its caster higher than its factory one.

      Easy to Install. This Stage 5 Suspension Lift System is designed to be easy to put under your vehicle with its 100% bolt-on installation features. No drilling, cutting, or welding is required for installation. Please take note that for this suspension enhancement system to work with larger tires, some trimming to your truck’s fender are required.

      Worry-Free Warranty. ICON backs this Stage 5 Suspension Enhancement System with a 1-year warranty against defects in material and substandard workmanship from the date of sale. This excludes damage caused by improper installation or service, abuse, neglect, and normal wear.

      Application. The ICON Vehicle Dynamics 2-2.5-Inch Stage 5 Suspension Lift System is made for all 2015-2020 Ford F-150 4WD models, excluding Raptors.

      Fitment: 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Details

      MPN# K93085

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      5.0

      Customer Reviews (1)

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      Ratings Summary

      5 out of 5 overall rating from 1 customers

      Installation Time: Full Day





      • February 05, 2020

        5 2018 Lariat - JPep Installation Time: Full Day

        When You're Looking For The Best...

        This system is remarkable. When I started truck shopping, I thought for sure that I would purchase a Raptor. When I talked myself off that cliff (knowing I would never fully utilize the performance it contained) I made a compromise with a beautiful, barely-used Lariat FX4. When I realized that I was saving a new Ford Focus in the purchase price difference I figured, "why not live a little and see what I can create for still much, much less?" I worked out a deal with the local Ford dealership for the install and even they were excited with the results. I set the front lift to 2.5" and the CDCV settings to 2 to see what the rough roads would take. The bounce has been taken out of the rear, the little bumps are unnoticeable, and the big bumps just don't mean much anymore. Forget the fact that it looks awesome, it's meant to take abuse and likely to a scale that I'll never provide. I love my truck and couldn't be happier.

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Remote Reservoir Coilover Shocks with CDCV
      • (2) Uniball Upper Control Arms
      • (2) 2.5” V.S. Series Piggyback Reservoir Rear Shocks with CDCV

      Will It Fit My F-150

      • 2.7L V6 EcoBoost - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20
      • 3.0L V6 Power-Stroke - 18, 19, 20
      • 3.3L V6 - 18, 19, 20
      • 3.5L V6 - 15, 16, 17
      • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20
      • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost Limited - 19, 20
      • 5.0L V8 - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20

      Not Compatible with Raptors