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Supreme Suspensions 2.50-Inch Front / 3-Inch Rear Pro Billet Suspension Lift Kit (04-20 2WD/4WD F-150, Excluding Raptor)

Item T537077
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$204.95 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys, it's Sara with americantrucks.com. And today, we have a review and install of the Supreme Suspensions 2.5-Inch Front and 3-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit, fitting your '04 to '20 Four-Wheel-Drive and Two-Wheel-Drive F-150 Models, excluding the Raptor. This is best for the F-150 owner who wants a smaller lift solution but still plans to tow with their truck, so doesn't want to remove the factory rake. This kit will get them lift in the front as well as the rear, so some more room for wheels and tires without losing that factory rake. This kit lifts both the front and the rear of your truck, providing 2.5 inches of lift in the front thanks to some strut spacers, and 3 inches of lift in the rear thanks to the rear lift blocks. Now, depending on the model of your truck, stock tire sizes may vary. For this video, our stock tire size is a 31. And with this kit installed, you can comfortably fit up to a 33-inch tire. This kit includes CNC machined billet aluminum spacers for the front, as well as steel rear lift blocks, longer U-bolts, and all the hardware you need for installation. So, physically, the rear lift blocks measure in at 3 inches on the dot. The front spacers measure in at approximately 2 inches. You'll get that extra 1/2-inch of lift from the change in suspension geometry achieved by installing this kit.So, as far as price goes, this kit comes in at around $200, which is on the lower end price-wise when compared to other options. And for your money, you are getting lift in both the front and the rear so you can get the look that you're after for your truck while saving some money over more pricey options. And as far as the install goes, I'm giving this one a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does feature a direct bolt-up install that can be done within four hours and you will want a professional alignment afterwards. With that said, let's check out our install.For this install, you will need an impact gun or a ratchet will work just fine. You'll need 8 and 5-millimeter Allen sockets, 8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 21, and 22-millimeter sockets. You may also want a swivel extension. You'll need a pry bar, 22, 17, 15, and 18-millimeter wrenches, a vacuum pump, a caliper hanger, a hammer, and a flat-head screwdriver.All right. So, our first step in the uninstall is to remove the brake and ABS lines on the side of our knuckle here. So, grab an 8 and a 10-millimeter socket, and let's get these out. We're going to start with the 8-mil right here. Go ahead and get it removed. And then the 10-mil right behind it. Then you can pull them out of the way.Next up, we're going to disconnect the sway bar. There's an 18-millimeter nut on the bottom of your lower control arm. Go ahead and get your 18-millimeter socket and get it removed Next up, grab a 21-millimeter socket and remove the nut on the bottom of your outer tie rod. And if it doesn't release on its own, you can hit it lightly with a hammer. But if it does release on its own, go ahead and pop it out. Next up, we're going to remove the caliper by removing two 21-millimeter bolts at the caliper bracket. Grab your 21-millimeter socket and let's get these removed. And once your caliper is removed, go ahead and hang it out of the way so there's no tension on your brake line.All right. Now, we can remove our rotor. If it doesn't want to come off freely like ours does, you can tap it on the backside with a rubber mallet where your caliper just was. Go ahead and wiggle it off and remove it. We are also going to remove the dust shield. There's three 8-millimeter bolts around the outside. Get all three of these removed. Next up, we're going to remove the ABS line. This is a 5-millimeter Allen key. So, with an Allen key or Allen socket, go ahead and get this removed. And from there, you can wiggle the sensor loose and put it to the side. We also need to pop off the dust shield for our axle nut. We're gonna use a small flat-head and just work it loose around the outside. All right. Now, what we're going to do is remove this air line on the back of your knuckle so that we can pull suction back here and we can disconnect our axle without damaging the four-wheel-drive.All right. So, our next step here is what I'm going to be doing is removing this knuckle to give ourselves more space to get the strut out. Now, you don't have to do this, but it does make it a ton easier in my opinion. Now, in order to get this knuckle out, what we have to do is on the back of the knuckle where we just removed that air line, we have to put this line on here that's going to our vacuum pump. We're going to pull 20 pounds of pressure to release the 4-wheel-drive actuator so we don't damage it when we remove our knuckle. We're gonna slide our tube over the larger port in the back of the knuckle and go ahead and pull suction. We're going to get about 20 PSI and make sure this holds while we remove the knuckle. And with our vacuum line on the back of the knuckle, we can remove this nut on the front of the axle. This is a 13-millimeter. So, with your 13-millimeter socket, get this removed. All right. Now, we can disconnect the top of our knuckle from our upper control arm. This is an 18-millimeter nut. So, with an 18-millimeter socket, and you may want a swivel extension, get this removed. Now, our upper control arm did release the ball joint from the knuckle. If yours doesn't, you can tap on the side here to release it. Then once it is released, with a pry bar, we're just going to pry down on the upper control arm so we can remove the nut. And then slowly release it out of our knuckle.All right. Now, if it didn't come out on its own, you can pull your knuckle forward. Make sure you're still pulling pressure on the back of it and start to pull your axle out of your knuckle. Now, with a 21-millimeter socket, you can remove the nut that's holding on your knuckle to your lower control arm. Now, this is the last thing that's holding your knuckle on, and although it may stay in the ball joint, make sure you're supporting this just in case it comes loose. Go ahead and get your 21-millimeter socket and remove this nut. All right. Now, if your ball joint does release, you can go ahead and slide the knuckle off the truck and remove it. So, we still have our suction pulled on our knuckle and I just want to show you guys why we are pulling vacuum on the back here. You should see this gear along the inside move back into place when we release our pressure. And that is what you risk tearing if you don't pull vacuum on the back of your knuckle.All right. At this point, we're going to remove two 18-millimeter nuts on the bottom of our strut assembly. So, with an 18-millimeter socket, get these removed. Next up, we're going to remove the nuts on the top of the studs of our strut. There are three of these, two in the front here and then one in the back that might be a little bit harder to see. With a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench, get these removed. Now, we're leaving one of our nuts slightly threaded on the top just to hold the strut assembly in place. Then what we're going to do is press down to release the strut out of the bottom of the lower control arm. Remove the nut up top and slide out your strut assembly.All right. So, before we can get our spacer installed on the top of our strut, we do need to put these bolts through the bottom of the spacer on the side that seats to the top of the strut. You'll see a shoulder inside of the spacer. What you're going to do is grab the Allen head hardware, start to thread it into the holes that are threaded, and you should see it come through the other side. And then what you're going to do is take an 8-millimeter Allen key or an Allen socket and tighten it down. Now, you can see the stud poking through, we're gonna repeat that for the next two holes. With our studs in place, you can now line up the holes on the spacer with your factory studs. Now, this only is one way that this goes on. So, if it doesn't line up, turn it until it does. Next, what we're going to do is grab the factory nuts and thread them on. If it is a little bit difficult, you can always use the 15-millimeter socket to help you thread it in place. Make sure your spacer is centered over the stud and then grab a 15-millimeter socket and tighten it down.At this point, we can slide the strut assembly back up into the top. Make sure that you have it seated in such a way that it lines up with the top three studs and the bottom two. All right. So, we have a pry bar in here for the lower control arm, and we're going to grab a friend to help us pry down on this while we line up the strut. And line it up into place. Now, we're working with the bottom of the lower control arm. We see the factory studs for our strut poking out of the bottom, thread on your factory nuts. And with an 18-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now that we have the bottom bolts seated, what we're going to do is install the nuts over the top studs. We're using a washer, a lock washer, and the included nut. So, let's get these threaded on. Now, again, we're doing the front ones here and there is one in the back that might be a little bit harder to see, but it works off the same process. Washer, lock washer, and then thread your nut on. Next up, with a 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench, we're gonna tighten these down.Now that we have our strut bolted down, we're going to grab our knuckle and slide it over the lower ball joint and also start to line it up with the axle as well. We're going to slide it over the lower ball joint, as well as the axle. Sort of line them up simultaneously and make sure you're still pulling pressure while you do this. And once you can see a few threads of the lower ball joint popping through the bottom of your knuckle, thread your nut on. Now, with a 21-millimeter socket, tighten down the nut for your lower ball joint.All right. So, what we're doing now is using a floor jack to bring the angle of the lower control arm up a bit so we can get a better angle for the axle to go back into our knuckle and get our upper control arm seated. And then once you can see some threads of your axle go through your knuckle, go ahead and thread your factory nut back on. And with your 13-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now, we're gonna line the knuckle up with the upper control arm. You may need to jack up a little bit more to get this in place. And then what we're going to do is use a pry bar up top and pry down on our upper control arm until we can see threads through the knuckle, and then thread the nut back on. Now, we're going to keep our pry bar in place because what we're going to do when we tighten it down is pry down on the ball joint so it doesn't spin. All right. Now, we have our 18-millimeter socket with a swivel. And again, what I'm going to do here is pry down right above the upper ball joint to hold it in place while I tighten it down. At this point, we can line up our outer tie rod with the end of our knuckle. And grab the nut and thread it on. Then with a 21-millimeter socket, tighten it down.At this point, we can now release vacuum for our four-wheel-drive and remove the tube on the back of the knuckle, and line up and replace our factory tube. Next up, what we're going to do is line up our ABS line around the front of our knuckle. Line it up in the opening and thread the factory Allen bolt back in. Then with a 5-millimeter Allen key or Allen socket, go ahead and tighten this down. Next, we can replace the dust cover over the end of our axle nut. Press it into place. And if it doesn't fully seat, you can gently tap it with a hammer. Next up, we can replace the dust shield. Make sure this cutout on the top is nicely seated over your ABS line so it doesn't get damaged and then replace the factory hardware. Next up, grab your 8-millimeter socket and tighten these down. Now, we can get our rotor on. We're going to line it up over the studs. And then a nice trick I like to use with this so we can get our caliper bolted on, thread on a nut to keep it from sliding back off. Once you have the rotor in place, grab your caliper and line it back up over top of the rotor. And start to line up your bolts in the back of the knuckle. And now, with a 21-millimeter socket, tighten these down.All right. Now, you're going to grab your nut and thread it on the bottom of your sway bar end link. You may want a socket to help you line it up. And then what we're going to do is grab our 18-millimeter socket and tighten it down. And now, we're going to line back up the bracket for our brake line as well as our ABS line, and get the bolts to thread them back into our knuckle. We're starting with the 8-millimeter bolt for the ABS line. We're gonna thread it through the plastic bracket, and with our 8-millimeter socket, we're going to tighten it down. Moving on to our brake line bracket, make sure that's lined up. Grab your 10-millimeter socket and thread that one in. Then with your 10-millimeter socket, tighten it down. And you're gonna line the brake line bracket up with the knuckle, grab your 10-millimeter bolt, and thread it through your bracket. And then grab your 10-millimeter socket and tighten it down.All right. So, once you complete your front driver side, repeat that process to complete the front passenger side. And once you're all done with the spacer kit in the front, we're gonna move onto the rear. We have the axle supported here with pole jacks. You can use jack stands if you're on the ground as well. And with it supported, our first step is to remove the nut and bolt from the bottom of our shock.Now, with an 18-millimeter wrench and a 15-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove this nut and bolt. Next up, we're going to remove the four nuts on the bottom of your factory U-bolts and drop the bracket to remove the U-bolts. Grab a 21-millimeter socket and let's get these removed. Now, you can remove your U-bolts. We will not be reusing these.All right. Now that the side is done, it is a bit easier because it's a straight axle truck to get the other side caught up to this point as well. And then we can drop the axle down together to replace our blocks. Remove your factory block.All right. Now that we have our factory components uninstalled from our truck, we can check them out side by side with our new lift kit here. Now, as you can see, these rear blocks are a lot taller than your factory. They're going to be a nice replacement from these smaller factory blocks and because of the size difference, they've also included longer U-bolts and some additional hardware as well for a complete kit. So, with that said, let's finish up our install.All right. With both of our lift blocks removed, we can now install our new blocks. So, what we're going to do is very carefully lower down the axle. Again, make sure it's properly supported at this point so you lower it safely. Once you have enough clearance, you can slide your lift block in and line up the tabs on the bottom as well as the top.At this point, we can line up the top posts. You're just going to slowly raise your axle and watch as it lines itself up. If you need to move the block around at this point, you can slide it back and forth because there is a little bit of room for adjustment. So, as we're raising, we're just keeping an eye on where those posts are. Once it's lined up, it will go flush all the way between your spring and your axle. Now, you can slide your U-bolts over top. And you can line up the factory bracket with the bottom of your new U-bolts. Slide your hardware on there. There's gonna be a washer as well as a nut. Now, what I'm going to do is line up the bracket on the bottom here, then we can tighten down our nuts on each side of the U-bolt. Just make sure you're doing these as evenly as possible. We're using a 22-millimeter socket. Go ahead and get these tightened down. All right. Now, if your socket is not deep enough to get these all the way tight, you can finish them up and check them with a wrench. We're using a 22-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Go ahead and tighten them down. At this point, we can reinstall the bolt at the bottom of our shock. What we're going to do is compress the shock and line it up to the mount so we can slide our bolt in and install the nut on the other side. Now, you can grab your 18-millimeter wrench and your 15-millimeter socket and tighten these down.All right. At this point, you're gonna repeat all of those steps to install your other side. And when everything is together, make sure that it's torqued to spec and you will want a professional alignment afterwards. And then that is gonna do it for the review and install of this leveling kit. And remember for all things F-150, keep it at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Suspension Lift Kit
      • Provides 2.5-Inch Front-End and 3-Inch Rear-End Clearance
      • Increased Distance from Driving Surface for More Undercarriage Protection
      • Makes Truck Sportier and Firmer Without Compromising OEM Ride Quality
      • C.N.C.-Machined for Accuracy and Precision
      • Durable and Corrosion-Resistant
      • Expert-Level Install
      • Covered by a Lifetime Limited Warranty
      • Sold as a Kit
      • Fits All 2004–2020 2WD/4WD Ford F-150 Models, Excluding Raptor

      Description

      Makes Truck an Invincible Trail-Conquering Beast. Ready to transform your beloved Ford F-150 as a much more formidable off-road vehicle than ever before? Then get the Supreme Suspensions 2.5 in. Front / 3 in. Rear Pro Lift Kit. By adding 2.5 inches of vertical distance on the front and 3 inches of vertical distance on the rear, you will be kept further away from rocks and other objects that can potentially damage its undercarriage. The C.N.C.-machined aluminum components with hard anodized coating not only make the kit sturdy and rust-resistant, but also prepare it for accurately guiding your truck though the wild. And with the aggressive stance this kit provides, you’ll feel how firm and secure your ride is without compromising the truck’s OEM quality.

      Expert-Level Install. Applying this lift kit can be time-consuming; it could take as long as four hours to complete. You’ll need to use a car jack to lift the truck and remove various parts with basic hand tools to apply this product.

      Covered by a Lifetime Limited Warranty. As long as you own your F-150, this suspension kit is warrantied to be free from manufacturing and material defects.

      Application. The Supreme Suspensions 2.5 in. Front / 3 in. Rear Pro Lift Kit fits all 2004–2020 2WD/4WD Ford F-150 models, excluding the Raptor trim. It is sold at a kit.

      Please Note. It is recommended to check with your local DMV before purchasing this Lift Kit for a 4WD model, as it may be illegal in some states to stack rear blocks.

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      Details

      Supreme Suspensions FDF104FK2530

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Suspension Lift Kit
      4.6

      Customer Reviews (206)

        Questions & Answers

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        Will It Fit My F-150

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