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Rough Country 3.50-Inch Forged Upper Control Arm Suspension Lift Kit with Strut Spacers and Premium N3 Shocks (19-24 4.3L, 5.3L, 6.2L Silverado 1500 w/ Rear Multi-Leaf Pack Springs, Excluding Trail Boss & ZR2)

Item S112672
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$649.95 (kit)

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      Product Videos

      Hey, guys. It's Sarah with americantrucks.com. And today we have a review and install of the Rough Country 3.5-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Upper Control Arms and Premium N3 Shocks, fitting your '19 and newer Silverado 1500 Crew Cab, short bed, excluding the trail boss. This is perfect for the Silverado owner who's looking for a lift solution that raises both the front and the rear of their truck and also includes some upgrade components. This kit provides 3.5 inches of lift in the front and 2.5 inches of lift in the rear to get you some more room for wheels and tires upfront and give your truck a bit more of a level appearance without losing all of that factory rake.Now, depending on the year or model of your truck, stock tire sizes may vary. For our truck, stock is approximately A31, and you can fit up to A33-inch tire with this kit installed. Included with the front kit are two steel spacers per side that all feature a nice black powder coat finish. Now, this strut spacer here will go on top of your strut assembly, and the additional preload spacer will sit underneath your spring. Also, included with the front kit are these heavy-duty upper control arms.Now, when doing any sort of lift to the front of your truck, upper control arms are a great replacement to do in order to get the proper amount of travel, full clearance, and the proper ball joint angle. And for the rear kit, we have these steel rear lift blocks, which feature that same black powder coat finish, as well as longer U-bolts to accommodate these lift blocks. In addition, you also get these N3 shocks so you don't lose ride quality.Now, as far as the size of the spacers themselves, these rear lift blocks measure in at approximately 2.5 inches and are tapered from end to end. The fronts are a little bit more involved. These top strut spacers measure in at 1.75-inch, and the bottom preload spacers measure in at approximately 0.5-inch. Now, you'll still achieve this 3.5 inches of lift in the front with these combined spacers, as well as the change in suspension geometry that installing these spacers will achieve.So, as far as price goes, this kit comes in at around $600, which is middle of the road price-wise when compared to other options. And for your money, you are getting this full kit, which gives you lift in the front and the rear with upgraded components like the upper control arms and the shocks that some other kits do not offer. And as far as the install goes, I'm giving this one a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It will require the use of a spring compressor, and you do need to trim the studs on top of your strut assembly in order to fit that new spacer. All in all, it can be done within a day. So, with that said, let's check out the install.For this install, you will need an impact gun, or a ratchet will work just fine. You'll also need a hammer, a pop clip removal tool, a grinder and a cut-off wheel, a pair of pliers, 15, 18, 17, 10, and 21-millimeter wrenches, 22, 21, 18, 17, 15, and 10-millimeter sockets. You may also want a swivel extension. You need a bungee cord or something to hold up your knuckle, a flathead screwdriver, and a pry bar.All right. So the first step in our uninstall, we have our truck in the air and the front wheel removed. Then what we're gonna do is remove all the bolts that hold the sensor and brake line brackets to the knuckle and upper control arm to give it enough room to swing away from the truck without putting tension on any of those lines. On the backside of the sensor bracket, you'll see a 10-millimeter bolt. All of these bolts are 10 millimeters. Grab your 10-millimeter socket and get it removed. I'm gonna remove this bolt completely because it will install in our new upper control arm. Moving down the lines that we just disconnected, there's another 10-mil right on the back of the knuckle. Remove that one as well. We're also gonna remove the bolt out of the brake line bracket. This one is also a 10. Remove the bracket off the knuckle. Then I'm just gonna throw the bolt back in just to hold it in place. And next up, on the other side of the knuckle is another bolt. Go ahead and remove that as well with a 10-millimeter socket. And again, I'm gonna twist this back in. Some of them are different lengths, so I like to keep the bolt exactly where it was.And finally, we're gonna remove the sensor itself out of the knuckle. Now, there's probably enough slack in this line, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. And it's easy enough to just remove one more bolt out of the side of your knuckle and remove the center itself. Go ahead and set it aside. And again, I'm just gonna thread that bolt back in to ensure it is safe. Now, there's also one more bolt all the way on the backside of your knuckle. This one holds on the sensor for your brake pad wear. With your 10-millimeter socket, we're also gonna remove this, again, just better safe than sorry. Make sure all these lines have enough travel room so there's no tension on any of them.Next up, we're gonna remove the 21-millimeter nut holding on our outer tie rod. Grab a 21-millimeter socket and let's get this off. And thread this right back on here because we will need to strike the side of our knuckle in order to release this ball joint. Now, in order to release this ball joint, you're gonna strike the side of the knuckle here. We have our hammer, and we have the nut on here just to protect the threads. Go ahead and strike it until it releases. Then remove it out of the knuckle. Now we're underneath our lower control arm, and the next thing we're gonna remove is the nut on our sway bar end link. Grab an 18-millimeter socket and get this removed. I'm gonna leave the nut off so that it can come out of the lower control arm if necessary. And you may wanna disconnect both sides simultaneously to help with the lower control arm droop. And while we're under here, we're also gonna remove both of these 15-millimeter bolts that hold on the bottom of our strut. Now, because our upper control arm is still connected, this shouldn't drop too far, but always be careful as we're disconnecting these bolts.Next up, we're gonna remove the nut on the upper control arm. We're gonna do is with an 18-millimeter socket and a swivel, go ahead and loosen it up. Now, I'm gonna thread this back on here so that we can have that on for safety as we release the upper ball joint. Next up, to release the upper ball joint, we're gonna strike the side of the knuckle here until it releases, which is why we have the nut on the bottom there for safety. All right. Now, what we have is we have our truck a little bit lower, and we have a floor jack underneath here. And what I'm gonna do is just jack up a little bit just to take some of the tension off of the upper control arm because right now that's pretty much the only thing holding on our knuckle. Now, once the tension is off, you can remove this nut. Now what we're gonna do is slowly lower the jack down to release the knuckle out of the upper control arm. And now I have a bungee cord here. You can use a bungee cord, safety wire, anything just to hold this knuckle a little bit more steady so it doesn't put too much tension on the axle that is still attached.And finally, what we're gonna do is remove all three nuts that are holding on the top of our strut assembly. Now, to do this, there are some plastic retainers holding on this wiring harness. What we're gonna do here, just get underneath it with a pry tool or a trim panel removal tool. Go ahead and pop it off. Make sure you save these plastic pieces for reinstallation. Just push it off to the side for now so we can remove these nuts. Now, there are three nuts. These two in the front are easily accessible. And the one in the back is a little bit harder to see. You have an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. I'm just gonna go ahead and get these nuts removed. And for the backside, we have a ratchet here, 18-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna push up on that plastic and remove this. Again, it may be a little bit hard to see. And finally, the last one all the way up the front here. And with all of the nuts removed, go ahead and remove the strut assembly off of your truck.All right. Now that we have our strut removed, we can start to assemble the top strut spacer. What we're gonna do here is with these included studs, slide them up and through the spacer. Then they've also included a jam nut. I'm gonna throw a washer on top and then a 17-millimeter nut. Now, what we're gonna do here is use that nut to work the stud up through the spacer. With an 18-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten this until it's flush. Then you can loosen the top nut. Remove these, and be careful they may be a tad warm. And then just double check the stud went all the way through. Moving on to the next one, repeat that same process. And again, you don't have to add this washer. That's just something I add just for a little more slip between these two nuts. This is the nut that's actually doing the work, and then this guy is just a jam nut. Go ahead and tighten it down with that 17-millimeter socket. Once it's all the way tight and fully seated, go ahead and remove those nuts. And finally, the last stud.And now that we have our spacer fully assembled, we can install it on the top of our strut. Now, I wanted to point out to you what we'll have to do next, and that is to trim these studs so that this spacer sits flush with the top of your strut. Now, what we're gonna need to do is take approximately 3/8 of an inch off the end starting from that tip there. You can use a measuring tape, or you can use the spacer as a reference. But go ahead and line it up, and then make your mark. Now, you can always take more off later on if you'd like to err on the side of caution. Go ahead and mark the rest of your studs. Now, before we cut, what I like to do is thread the factory nuts over top. That way if we do make any cuts that don't work well with the threads, we can work these nuts back off, and they should clean up those threads for us. We're still gonna be careful as we cut. But go ahead and work these on with an 18-millimeter socket.Now that we've made our mark, what we're gonna do here with a cut-off wheel is take off the very tip up to that mark that we made. All right. Now we'll move on to the other two studs and slice off the ends there. Now, I have some hammers propping it up, anything to keep the strut steady while you're cutting. And repeat that for your final stud. All right. Now that all the cuts have been made, it's not a bad idea to come in with a grinding wheel to just clean up any sharp areas that may be left behind. And now with those cuts made, we can remove the nuts.At this point, we have our strut assembly inside the spring compressor so that we can compress it and add the preload spacer at the bottom. Now, if you don't have access to a spring compressor, or you don't feel comfortable using one, you can take the whole assembly to your local shop and have them press the spacer in for you. Go ahead and compress down on the entire strut assembly until you see the bottom of the spring come up off the seat. And now that the spring is compressed sufficiently so you see it come off the bottom of that strut, what you're gonna do is grab an 18-millimeter socket and remove the nut on top. Make sure you keep a hand on the bottom of the assembly so it doesn't fall. Go ahead and remove it.And now that we have our strut out, we're gonna lift off this plastic piece. We have our preload spacer here. Throw that on top. The taper side goes down. Then reinstall this plastic piece, and we can install it back into the spring assembly. Now, you may need to compress this some more in order to get this lined up. Now, it may help to line up the bottom of this strut how it came off of the truck. That way you don't have to line it up later on. Go ahead and thread your nut up top, and with your 18-millimeter socket, tighten it down. And now with everything in and tight, you can release your spring out of the spring compressor.All right. Now we have our strut assembly back on the table. We have our preload spacer installed. And what we need to do here is pop these clips off the bottom, and we're also gonna get our spacer installed up top. Let's go ahead and start with the clips. Now, I'm just using a flathead screwdriver to come under and just pry off the edge and remove the clip. And repeat that on the other side. Again, we're just going under with a flathead and prying off. And now we can install that spacer that we marked up our studs for earlier. As you can see, everything's clearing fine. If not, just go back in and take more off of those studs. And what we're gonna do here is line up each of the nuts. Go ahead and start to thread them on, but don't get anyone all the way just because we're gonna be doing this a few more times. And once all the factory nuts are on and in place, we're gonna grab an 18-millimeter open-ended wrench and tighten it down. Now, this part can get a little tedious, but there's really not a better way to do this. So go ahead and tighten these.All right. Now, at this point, we're gonna remove our upper control arm. Now, you have to do this with the strut assembly removed because with it in place, it will block the head of both of these bolts, and you won't be able to remove it. What I'm doing here is I have a 21-millimeter socket holding it in place, and a 21-millimeter wrench to remove the nut. Now, you can mark these when you remove these bolts. However, your new control arm is different, and you will need a professional alignment afterwards so they can adjust. Repeat that with your other bolt. Now remove the control arm.All right. Now that we have our factory control arm uninstalled from our truck, we can check it out side by side with our new control arm here. Now, as you guys can see, the biggest difference and the main reason as to why you may swap your upper control arms is the ball joint angle. When compared to the angle of the stock, this one has a ton more to offer. It's offset in the control arm a bit, and it has more range of motion in the ball joint itself, so you get that proper ball joint angle, and you get some more room for travel. In addition, it also features OEM-style bushings at the back of this control arm, and it's designed in a way that it clears the strut mount, which is a nice feature as well. So, with that said, let's go ahead and get these installed.All right. Now we have our upper control arm here. We're gonna get it installed onto the truck. Line up both of the bolts. Now we're gonna tighten it down, and this is where the importance in marking where that control arm was before. I pretty much have it. Ballpark is right about there. So when we're tightening it down, we're just gonna keep in mind that we don't want it resting all the way against that bracket, and we don't wanna add any ridiculous height. We wanna kind of split the difference here. And now we have a 21-millimeter socket. We're gonna hold the head of the bolt in place and a 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench to get it tightened down. Repeat that with your other bolt.All right. Now with our upper control arm in place, we can install the strut assembly. Line up the three studs on top. And once you have the studs through, go ahead and throw one of the nuts on top to hold it in place. And once you have the strut assembly in, go ahead and thread those other two nuts on top. And we are just installing them hand-tight for now until we get the bolts through the bottom. Okay. Now what we're gonna do is line up the bottom of the strut with the holes in the lower control arm. And we took those pins off the bottom, those clip nuts, so that we could use the hardware included in the kit. And if you've successfully lined up the bottom of this strut, then you shouldn't have to make any modifications. But if you don't have this bottom part lined up, you can twist it so it lines up nicely with your lower control arm. Once we have both those bolts installed, again, make sure you have a washer on the top of your bolt. And we're gonna put a washer on the bottom as well. And we're using the nylon lock nuts that come in the kit. And now that we have the bolts in the bottom of the lower control arm, what we're gonna do is grab a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench and tighten these down. And this back one may be a little bit easier to get with a ratchet, so we have our 15-millimeter ratchet back here. And finally, we're tightening up this other front one.All right. Now we have our truck lowered to the ground. We have a jack underneath it. And what we're gonna do is just raise up the lower control arm so that we can get it a lot closer to our upper control arm and line up the ball joint into the knuckle. Now, using a pry bar, I'm just gonna pry down on that upper control arm. Then go ahead and install the included lock nut. All right. Now as we're pressing down on that upper control arm, grab an 18-millimeter socket, and you may want a swivel extension, and tighten it down. And now with a 17-millimeter wrench and 17-millimeter socket, tighten down your lower strut mount. Repeat that on the other side. All right. Now we'll give you guys a tip. If you are about to do the other side, I would leave this disconnected for now. But once you've done both sides, go ahead and reinstall the nut on the bottom of your sway bar end link. You can use a pry bar to pry down if you need. But once the nut is installed, go ahead and tighten it down with an 18-millimeter socket. And finally, we can install the outer tie rod into the top of your knuckle. Once it's fully seated, put the factory nut back on the bottom, and with a 21-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now, if your ball joint does spin and it doesn't allow this nut to get tight, what I suggest is a 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench with a 10-millimeter wrench to hold it in place as you tighten it up the rest of the way.All right. Now, the final step is to reinstall all of our lines. Now, this control arm does have a threaded piece, which is pretty handy. However, there is no hole for this tab to go in. So you have several options here. You can cut this off. You can drill a hole in your control arm, or I'm just gonna take a set of pliers here. And I'm just gonna bend this tab up so that I can sit nice and flush on the control arm, and we can get it tight. Now that you've done that, go ahead and install the factory 10-millimeter bolt, which should thread right into your control arm, and grab your 10-millimeter socket to tighten it down. Now, it is important to make sure that you have this turned in the proper area just to make sure there's no tension on these lines. And once you're happy with how it sits, tighten it down the rest of the way.Next up, wrap the cable that we fully disconnected around the back. And we're gonna hook up this bracket here. Now, this may be hard to see because it is directly on the back of this knuckle. Go ahead and line up the tab and thread in your bolt. Then with your 10-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten it down. And there's another bracket on the backside as well. This one is below the one that we just installed. Again, this may be hard to see. And with your 10-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Moving right along to the brake line, this is just above the one that we just installed, go ahead and thread in your bolts. And with your 10-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now, moving to the other side of the knuckle, there's two more mounting points for these lines. Again, just repeat that process of installing the bracket, installing the bolt. And with a 10-millimeter socket tightening it down. And finally, the sensor itself. Make sure you're putting it into the knuckle. Again, this may be hard to see. It's right behind the rotor. Thread in your bolt and tighten it down. Keep in mind this is a plastic sensor so you do not over-tighten. All right. Now that this side is complete, you wanna repeat that entire process to install your passenger side. Once that is complete, make sure everything is torqued to spec, and we'll head onto our rear install.All right. Now that we are at the back, we have the truck in the air with the wheels off, and we're supporting our axle underneath with several pole jacks. If you're on the ground, you can use a hydraulic jack. We just wanna take the tension off the axle a bit while we loosen all the bolts for the shock. All right. Now, we're starting with the bolt all the way at the top. We have a 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench, because there is not a ton of room, go ahead and get it removed. All right. Now, with a 21-millimeter wrench and 21-millimeter socket, remove the bolt at the bottom of your shock. Now you can remove the shock off of your truck. All right. Now that we have our factory shock uninstalled from our truck, we can check it out side by side with our new shock here. Now, this is Rough Country's premium N3 shock, and it features their signature silver powder coat. It also features 10 stage variable valving, meaning it will still be capable off-road, but you get that factory ride quality when you're driving on the street. So, with that said, let's finish up our install.Before we get that shock installed, we are going to drop our axle and install those lift blocks. We have the axle supported with several pole jacks. And what we're gonna do is with a 21-millimeter socket remove all four of these nuts. Go ahead and remove the bracket off the bottom and remove both of the factory U-bolts. And now that we have that removed off of the truck, what we're gonna do is drop the axle down in order to slip this block in. Now, because this is a straight axle, you may wanna do this simultaneously with the other side. What we're gonna do is lower the pole jack. And if you do both sides simultaneously, you can lower them in tandem with one another. And once you've lowered it enough so that you can fit this block in, go ahead and line this block up. Now, you should know that it is tapered as we saw before. So the larger end will be towards the back. Make sure that tab is facing down and it clicks in place. And then what we can do is raise it up and line it up with the tab above. And then once it's lined up, you can go ahead and raise that axle. And now that the spring is fully seated into the block, install your U-bolts over the top, install the bracket over the bottom, and install the supplied hardware. All right. Now, we are gonna use a 22-millimeter socket in order to drive these up, but because we have a lot of threads sticking out, we will need to follow up with a wrench afterwards. Now, if you'd like, you can trim these down, or you can leave them as is, completely up to you. Grab your 22-millimeter socket and go ahead and run these up.And now we can install the shock. We're gonna line it up with the upper shock mount. And line up your bolt. We're gonna leave this loose for now so that we can get our bottom mount installed. And then what we're gonna do is raise the axle up until it lines up with our lower shock mount. Slide the bolt through. And with our 21-millimeter wrench and socket, tighten it down. And finally, with your 21-millimeter socket or ratcheting wrench, go ahead and tighten down the upper shock bolt. All right. So now that this side is complete, make sure you've caught the other side up to this point. Make sure everything is torqued to spec, and you will want a professional alignment immediately afterwards. But that is gonna do it for the review and install of this lift kit. And remember, for all things Silverado, keep it at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Suspension Lift System
      • Provides 3.5-Inch Front and 2.50-Inch Rear Lifts
      • Offers Superior Off-Road Driveability and Improved Handling
      • Premium N3 Shocks
      • Upper Control Arms Included
      • Fabricated Rear Lift Blocks and U-Bolts
      • Professional Installation Recommended
      • Backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Fits 2019-2024 4.3L, 5.3L and 6.2L Silverado 1500s with Rear Multi-Leaf Pack Springs, Excluding Trail Boss and ZR2 Models

      Description

      Reinforced Ground Dynamics. Let your Silverado conquer the great outdoors by installing the Rough Country 3.5-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Upper Control Arms. This lift system includes well-engineered components to ensure more stability and control on your rough off-road adventures. The kit comes with heavy-duty upper control arms, premium N3 shocks, fabricated rear lift blocks, rear U-bolt lift kit, and a differential skid plate.

      Premium N3 Rear Shocks. The monotube construction of the Premium N3 Shock absorbers together with the high-flow, 10-stage valving adjustment deliver superior blend of off-road action and comfortable street ride quality. Each shock features high-pressure nitrogen charge, 18-mm piston rod, and a fast-cooling, 54-mm shock body. The rubber bushings ensure efficient operations, especially during hardcore off-road drives.

      Heavy-Duty Upper Control Arms. Rough Country includes a pair of Upper Control Arms in this lift kit for precise wheel control, full down-travel, and increased clearance to the upper strut mount. These control arms feature Clevite OEM style rubber bushings and POM ball joints for greater range of motion and easier installation. Each control arm exhibits high strength and excellent corrosion resistance. Additionally, it is also covered in a protective powder coated finish for maximum durability to withstand harsh outdoor elements.

      Lift Blocks, U-Bolts, and Differential Drops. Also included in this suspension upgrade are a set of fabricated rear blocks, U-bolts, and brackets. Fabricated blocks are stronger and offer a longer service life than cast blocks while being less susceptible to potential damages. The U-bolts ensure maximum clamp force with an even distribution of pressure, eliminate flexing, and provide the strength to keep original vehicle handling. Additionally, the differential drops maintain proper axle angle.

      Professional Installation. For best results, mechanical expertise is required in the installation of this Suspension Lift Kit. It comes with all the hardware and some minor drilling and trimming may be necessary to complete the installation process.

      Limited Warranty. A limited lifetime warranty is offered by Rough Country for this lift kit against factory defects in workmanship and materials. The shocks come with a 3-year limited warranty. Some exclusions apply; please check the terms and conditions for complete details.

      Application. The Rough Country 3.5-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Upper Control Arms is intended for use on 2019-2024 4.3L, 5.3L and 6.2L Silverado 1500s with Rear Multi-Leaf Pack Springs, Excluding Trail Boss and ZR2 Models.

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      Fitment:

      Details

      Rough Country 29531

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Premium N3 Rear Shocks
      • (2) Upper Control Arms
      • (2) Upper POM Ball Joints
      • (2) Strut Spacers
      • (2) Fabricated 3-Inch Lift Blocks
      • (4) U-Bolts
      • Installation Hardware
      4.8

      Customer Reviews (418)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Silverado 1500

        • 4.3L V6 - 19, 20, 21
        • 5.3L V8 - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
        • 6.2L V8 - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24

        It is not Compatible on Silverado 1500 Limited Models, fits the New Body Models Only.