(approx) 2 Hours
Simple installation for anyone.
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Hey, guys. So, today we're checking out the RedRock 4x4 Pocket Style Fender Flares, fitting all 2014 to 2018 Silverado 1500s. So, if you are in search of a more rugged and off-road look to the side of your truck, while also getting some extra protection in the meantime, these are definitely gonna be a great choice to take a look into. Now, as you can tell, with these mounted up to the side of our truck, this is definitely giving more of a off-road feel, especially with that riveted accent and that matte black aesthetic. Now, not only are they going to give you the look that you may want as far as a more utilitarian style, but these are also gonna do a really good job at protecting from any kick-up on and off-road. These will come out from the body about an inch, so you are gonna get a little bit more coverage with this. Not only is that great for somebody who has a set of stock tires, but if you've upgraded to a larger set of tires, or even a more aggressive set of tires, these will really do a good job in saving the paint on the side body of your truck and on the back as well.Now, these will be made of an automotive-grade polypropylene material, which is going to be like a flexible plastic material, so these will mold very well to the side of the truck. And they are gonna be pretty durable for what they are. Now, they're gonna do a great job at protecting from that kick-up, like I said, or even a door ding in the parking lot. I would not say that these are indestructible, but these are definitely going to hold up. And they are UV treated, so if you want to keep them this matte black color for that contrast to your paint color, or your paint code, you could definitely do so without these fading over time. Now, what I also like about these is the fact that you can also paint these, so if you like that rugged look where you're looking to paint-match the color code to your Silverado, you can do that as well. These kind of have the ability to be customized to however you like, so I do really like that feature of these fender flares here.Now, the other thing that is pretty cool about these is that there is very minimal modification in order to get these on your truck, which I'll show you guys in just a minute. But you do get that riveted accent without having to do a lot of that modification that you may think goes into a set of fender flares like this. And it really comes with everything that you need. You get all the hardware, and you even get a little gasket for the outside to make sure that they seal correctly. Overall, I personally think this is a good kit if you're looking for something that is affordable and also is gonna look good and function very well on the side of your truck. Now, speaking of affordability, these are going to run you about $300 for the set of four. And again, in my personal opinion, I think that this is a great kit, it's very inclusive, and again, this is gonna be great for somebody who doesn't want to do a lot of modification to their truck. Now, in comparison to some other choices, some other fender flare options may be set up a little bit differently. They may come out a little bit farther, or they may be a little bit more flush to the body in comparison to this option that covers the tire about 1 inch outward.Some options may not come with that riveted accent. And then there are other options that may have that riveted accent but may require a little bit more modification. Again, I like the fact that it is minimal. These are pretty easy to install, again, which I'll show you guys in just a second. And they really do accomplish an off-road look while having that function in the meantime. Now, speaking of install, I'm gonna give this a pretty easy one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Now, I did mention drilling. There is some very minor drilling, not a whole lot here. It's nothing that you can't get done in your driveway in about two hours with some pretty basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for my install were a drill, a 3/32-inch drill bit, a hammer, a ruler, a trim removal tool, a soft pry tool, a center punch, a marker, a 3/8-inch drive and quarter-inch drive ratchet, Phillips head screwdriver, a pair of scissors, a 5-inch extension, a 13-millimeter socket, a T45 and T15 Torx socket, and a number two Phillips head bit.To kick off this install we're gonna be starting on the table. We do have to put together our fenders before we install them on our truck. So, first, we're going to install the riveted accents on the outside. It's gonna be a couple nuts and bolts that are going to border it, the outside of our fender here. And we're also going to install our weatherstripping that's gonna seal the top of our fender to the side of our truck. Now, for this, you're gonna need a 13-millimeter socket or wrench, a T45 Torx socket, or you can also use the T45 Torx bit that's included in the kit. You're also gonna need a pair of scissors or a cutting tool like a straight edge or a pair of snips. And then we can repeat this whole process for the other three fenders as well.What we can do now is install our T45 Torx bolt that's provided in the kit, as well as our flat washer and nylon lock nut on the back, starting up at the front of the flare. Now, you can take the tools and tighten them down individually, or you can wait till these are all installed. But once you have them installed and you're ready to tighten them down, you can use that T45 Torx socket or the Torx bit that's provided, and the 13-millimeter wrench or socket. I'm using a socket here just because it's a little bit easier. And you can snug that up and repeat that for the other bolt holes.What we can do now is install our weatherstripping. Now, I would recommend to put something down, just to protect the material on the fender. You don't wanna get any surface scratches on it, because we will have to lay it on its face like this. But what we can do at this point is grab our weatherstripping, and there is a little piece of 3M tape on the inside. I'm just gonna peel that red backing back, and we can start to secure this to the upper part or the upper edge of our fender flare. Now, you wanna make sure that the 3M is gonna be sitting on the inside, so we can just line this up, and start to place that over the edge. Now, this is gonna be a little bit tedious, but just take your time and it'll lay flat.So, now that we have reached the end of our fender, we can trim it. I'm just gonna use a pair of scissors. You could also, again, use a pair of snips or a straightedge for this. Make sure that that goes over the fender. We can just press down on that 3M, and then we can repeat that for the other three fenders. So, now that our fenders are all put together, what we can do is head over to the truck. And our first step over here is to take off this mud guard on the back. For this, you're gonna need a T15 Torx socket or T15 Torx bit. And you're also gonna need a soft pry tool to help you get it off once those two bolts are out. I would also recommend to turn the wheel all the way out. It's gonna give you a little bit more room to work with, especially when we get to the drilling a little bit later. But again, first, we're gonna take off this mud guard. There's a screw up on top here, and one a little bit farther down. Now, you do wanna want to keep these because we will be reusing these with our new fender.So, once those screws are out, what we can do is take a soft pry tool. There's gonna be a couple retainer clips that are holding the back part of this mud guard on. So, I'm just gonna take that soft pry tool, go in from the side, and pry down. So, what we can do now is take our fender and line it up to the side of our truck here. Now, there are gonna be two holes down at the bottom, where that factory hardware is gonna go. And you wanna make sure that the front of the fender is lining up with this junction right on that body line there. So, I am going to loosely install those factory bolts down at the bottom, just so we can get an idea of where our fender is gonna sit, so we can press it up against the truck, and mark for where we need to drill those holes. So, I'm not gonna tighten them up, but I am gonna snug them up to where the fender would sit. So, now that the fender is loosely installed, what we can do is press up against the fender to where we want it to sit on the truck, and we can take a marker, a grease pen, or a paint pen, whatever you are going to use to mark where we need to drill, we can press this up against it, and just mark where it's sitting. Now, we are gonna take a measurement as well, but this is gonna give us an idea of where it needs to sit on the underside.Now that everything is marked, what we can do is take our fender off and we can double-check our measurements, and then we can go ahead and drill our pilot holes. So, I'm just using that T15 Torx, take those factory screws out. Now, with a metric ruler or a measuring tape, whatever you have on hand, we're gonna double-check the marked locations where we're gonna drill our pilot holes. They should be about 10 millimeters in the fender well. So, from this lip, they should be about 10 millimeters in. Next, what we can do is take a center punch and just mark on that marked location. This is just gonna keep our drill bit in place, make a little dent in the metal here so it doesn't kind of slip around when we're trying to drill.So, right on that mark, where we have the marker, we can just press our center punch up against it. Now, you can either use a collapsible one or just a standard one like I'm using. I'm just gonna use a hammer to make a mark. As you can see, it made a little notch in the middle. We can repeat that for the other mounting locations. Now, with a drill and a 3/32-inch drill bit, what we can do is drill out a pilot hole on each of those marked locations. So, for the last one, I did have to turn the wheel all the way in. With the wheel all the way out, my drill bit didn't fit. So, would just keep that in mind. So, if the drill bit is walking itself back or forth, what you can do is take that center punch and just mark it a little bit harder, and the dent in the metal should keep the drill bit in place. Now that our holes are drilled, what we can do is reinstall our fender like we did when we were fitting it. I'm gonna take those two screws from the factory and I'm gonna install them at the bottom. And then we can secure down the rest of our hardware, which is provided in the kit, and I'll show you that in just a second.So, again, we're just gonna secure these back two. It might be a little bit difficult to see because the tire is out, but I'm gonna keep this tire here because we have to use our drill again. So, we're gonna secure that middle mounting location, and then we'll move to the rest. So, because of the angle of the drill bit, you may not be able to get the center one completely tight, as the tire kind of pushes the drill bit out. So, you can use a number two Phillips head screwdriver in order to get it completely tightened down, and then we can move to the other ones. So, now we can secure the rest of the mounting locations. I'm gonna start at the back here. Again, we're using that number two Phillips head bit and the provided screws. Last but not least, for the front, what we can do is tighten up these two bottom factory screws using our T15 Torx socket. After the front is complete, we can head to the back. So, now that we're in the back, what we can do is take off our rear mud guard. So, there are gonna be four screws that are holding this in. They are going to use the same T15 Torx to remove them. So, I'm gonna go ahead and do so.Now, there is gonna be one on this indented part of the mud flap, so I'm gonna take an extension to help me reach that one a little bit better. What we can do now is take that soft pry tool that we used before and we can kind of pry up and out, and wiggle this mud guard off. Now, the inner wheel well down at the bottom is held on by two of those screws, so what I'm gonna do is take two of the factory screws that we just removed and reinstall them. There's gonna be one on the outside here, and one on the inside. So, there is also gonna be a rear mud guard here. I'm gonna remove the two screws that are holding on the front part, and there's gonna be two clips on the underside that we can use a pry tool for. So, because the tire is right here, you may wedge your ratchet up against the tire. You can just take off the T15 Torx and unthread it by hand, and it should just pop out. Now what we can do is take that soft pry tool. There's gonna be two clips. They are pretty difficult to remove. We can just pull down, and we should be able to pry these back two off with a soft pry tool. If the soft pry tool is not working, you can use a trim removal tool or a clip removal tool.Now, just like we did at the front, what we're gonna do is loosely install the fender with the factory hardware using one of the screws from the front and one of the screws from the rear, and then we're going to mark where we need to drill our holes. So, we're just gonna line this up. We can take our factory hardware and line this up with the back, and again, this is just gonna be loosely installed. We're not tightening anything up. We just wanna make sure that it's sitting at the right height. So, that one's threaded in a couple threads. We can head to the front and do the same thing. All right. So, now that they're both in, it's gonna look a little wonky. But we're gonna make sure that this is pressed as far as we can up against our truck, then we can take our marker and mark our holes. Once our holes are marked, we can just completely remove the fender again, and double-check with our ruler.So, the rear measurement is gonna be a little bit different. It is gonna be a little bit farther in than the front. So, we're gonna measure 22 millimeters in from the face, or the side of the truck here. Now we can make a mark with our center punch. Next, just like the front, we can take that 3/32-inch drill bit and our drill, and drill on all five mounting locations. Now that we have drilled our holes, we can reinstall our fender, with those factory screws down at the bottom. There's one at the front, one at the back. Might be easier to get the front one secured first, just because there's a little bit more room at the front than there is at the rear. So, now that both of those screws are started, we can take our provided self-tapping screws and secure down those five mounting locations where we just drilled. Now, again, I'm using that number two Phillips bit. You will have to put pressure on it to get that screw to cut. So, in order to get these fenders really flush up against the side of the truck, you are gonna have to put a decent amount of pressure in order to line these up.And just like the front, our last step is just to tighten up those factory screws with that T15 Torx. So, after everything is complete on this side, all you have to do is repeat that same exact process on the other side and you'll be all set to go. So, that is going to wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this. And always keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Fender Flare Install Type||Drilling Required|
|Fender Flare Material||Plastic|
|Fender Flare Finish||Smooth Black|
|Fender Flare Size||Wide|
|Fender Flare Style|
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(approx) 2 Hours
Simple installation for anyone.
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