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Fabtech 3-Inch Budget Lift Kit with Shocks (14-18 2WD/4WD Silverado 1500 Double Cab, Crew Cab w/ Cast Aluminum or Stamped Steel Control Arms)

Item S101501
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      Review & Installation Video

      Hey, what's up, guys? I'm Ryan from American Trucks. And today I'm here with a Fabtech 4-inch Budget Suspension Lift Kit with shocks fitting your 2014 to 2018 Chevy Silverado 1500. This is gonna be for the truck owner that is looking for some additional ground clearance for a very reasonable price.This is perfect for the budget minded enthusiast that's looking for some additional height as well as more of an aggressive stance. This kit is gonna give you more tire defender clearance, which is going to allow you to fit larger tires up to a 33-inch tire and, of course, it's gonna allow for more suspension articulation.This whole kit is designed for a smooth steady and quiet ride, and it maintains that factory ride quality somewhat since we're reusing the factory struts. This comes complete as a kit with pretty much everything you'll need to install. And there's a lot of modification to get this thing installed, but I talk about all that stuff in the installation video.Currently, this kit is around $700 on the site, which is pretty reasonable when compared to other options and not a bad option to go with. As far as installation goes, I'm gonna give this a very strong two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Expect this to take about a half a day. You don't need a lot of specialty tools. Now, with that being said, let's hop into the install. Tools we used for this install, dead blow hammer, regular hammer, tape measure, a drill, half-inch drive impact, half-inch drive breaker bar, pry bar, various socket extensions, 5/16 drill bit, half-inch drill bit, standard and metric socket set, half-inch drive ratchet, 3/8 drive ratchet, quarter-inch drive ratchet, flat-head screwdriver, cutoff wheel, bungee, safety glasses, standard and metric wrench set, sharpie and the crayon, channel locks, vise grips, wire cutters. So we're gonna get our truck up on the lift and we pulled our wheels and tires off.Now, if you're doing this on the ground, you jack your truck up, make sure that you support it with jack stands. We're gonna get started on the disassembly. The first thing we're gonna do is start disconnecting some of these lines. That way when we take all this stuff apart, we're not gonna pull on them and rip them. We're gonna start with this bracket right here on the upper control arm. You'd have one bolt in there. We're gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to get that out.Next thing we're gonna do is follow this ABS line up to this other bracket. We wanna free that up and then we're gonna unplug it. So you need a flathead screwdriver or any kind of pry tool to get underneath of there. Once we get that out, we're gonna need to push that little red locking tab out and then disconnect it. Once that tabs pushed out, there's gonna be a little black tab right here. You can push in on that, and that's gonna allow you to disconnect that plug. Next, we wanna free it up from this bracket. So we're just gonna pry that out there as well.Next, we're gonna remove our sway bar end link. So we're gonna use a 15-millimeter wrench for this nut up here, a 15-millimeter socket for the bolt head. Next, we're gonna remove our tie rod ends. So we're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to get that nut off. This happens to spin. You can either stick a socket on here and use a wrench. Well, actually, we're gonna pry down on this and try to get that to sit so we can get that nut off.Those ends we have to disconnect our upper control arm and this whole assembly is gonna swing out. We don't wanna separate this joint for the four-wheel drive axles. So what we're gonna do before we do that is we're gonna disconnect it from our differentials. So we're gonna remove a series of bolts using a 15-millimeter socket. That way this whole thing will swing out. To get this thing to rotate around, you can just spin the axle. You can just pull that out and it'll swing down.After you get that axle out, next thing I'm gonna do is disconnect this upper bolt joint from our spindles. So we're gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench to get this nut off and then we'll crack that free. So you wanna make sure that this nut comes all the way off. Once you get it all the way off, you can put it on a few threads and then we're gonna break this spring. Then we're gonna tap right here on the spindle, and that's gonna pop that out hopefully. After you crack that free, we're gonna pry that back in. Take that nut off. And we're gonna allow that upper control arm to come all the way out.So the next thing we're gonna do is support our lower control arm. That way we can take the two bolts out of the bottom of the strut. You don't need to put much tension on this. We just want it to keep it from swinging down when we take these bolts out. So if you have the factory setup and it's untouched, most likely you're gonna have a captured nut up here and you have a 15-millimeter bolt that goes up through the bottom. Ours look to have been replaced. So I'm gonna use some different tools. So next thing I'm gonna do is remove the top of this strut. You're gonna have three nuts up there and use an 18-millimeter wrench to get those off. After we get the strut out, next thing we're gonna do is remove our upper control arm. So you're gonna need a 21-millimeter wrench and 21-millimeter socket. We're gonna take each bolt out of each side. So we're gonna hold the bolt still. We're gonna unscrew the nut from it. We'll pull this out and get this thing out there. After that, we're gonna slide these two cam sections off then put those back on just to reassemble them and just put that bolt on. That way we don't lose any of the stuff. We're gonna hold the control arm as we get that last bolt out. And we can pull this whole thing out of the truck.So the next step in this process is to cut these droops top off. We need to make room for our new control arm, so we're gonna use a cut-off wheel. If you don't have a cut-off wheel or an air compressor, you can use a Sawzall. I'm gonna show you how to do that right now. So once you get that bracket cut off, that is basically gonna wrap up everything for this wheel well. We're gonna do those same exact steps for the other side. After you've done that, we're gonna go underneath with some disassembly and some modification.So next since we have to remove our crossmember and we gotta get that differential out, we're gonna remove this skid plate. So they're gonna have six large bolts in here. We're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket to take each one of those outputs skid plates off. So we wanna grab onto this thing while we take that last bolt out.Next, you wanna take the crossmember off. This has two bolts on either side. We're gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench and an 18-millimeter socket. So this point in time, you probably wanna take your gloves off. We're gonna unplug this plug right here. This is for our differential. You're gonna have this little tiny red locking tab. We're gonna take a flathead screwdriver and we're just gonna pry that out some, just a little bit. Once we get that out, we can push on that, and that's gonna allow us to unplug that.So next thing we have to do is remove our driveshaft because like I said, we have to get this whole differential out. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna take a crayon and we're gonna mark this. That way when we put it back in, we can put it back in in the same exact spot. So we're just gonna make a little mark on this encapsulate here and then a little mark on the yolk.After that, you're going to have four bolts. So there's two end caps. Each end cap's gonna have two bolts. We're gonna use an 11-millimeter socket to remove both of those. And then we'll set that driveshaft aside with a bungee cord. So after that, we're gonna slide this back. You wanna make sure these end caps do not fall off. There's little tiny needle bearings inside of there. We wanna make sure that they stay on.So the next thing we're gonna do is remove our steering rack. So the first thing that we're gonna do is disconnect our steering column from the rack. It's that little tiny bolt up there. We're gonna use an 11-millimeter socket to get that out. After we get that out, we can push the steering column up and off.So next we're gonna disconnect our wiring. So we're gonna have these two plugs over here, one here, one here. We're gonna free both of these spots up from the frame and then we'll unplug this. We're gonna start with this plug over here and unplug that. You're gonna need to push this red locking tab up and then you can press down on this lever.Next, we're gonna do this one over here. You have this little lever back here. So we're gonna just pick up on that with a flathead screwdriver. We're gonna twist this around. We're gonna take this red locking tab. Pull that out. And we can press in on this. So after we get everything disconnected, we're gonna start with the removal of the bolt. We're gonna start with these two big bolts here. We're gonna use a 15/16 socket to get those out.We're gonna take these last two bolts. You're gonna have one bolt up here and one bolt through this hole in the frame. I'm gonna get Tony to hold this thing for me. I'll use an 18-millimeter socket to take those out. We're gonna slide it to one side so we can get one of the tie rods out. And then we'll take the whole thing out and down.So after you get the steering rack out, the next thing we're gonna do is take the differential out. So we're gonna have two 21-millimeter nuts over here and we're gonna have two 18-millimeter bolts. We're gonna support this thing with a pole jack. As we get it down, we're gonna pull off the vent tube and disconnect any lines that are attached to this thing. Once we get our hardware off, we're gonna need to lower the poll jack down. So next we're gonna take this passenger side dismount out. You're gonna have two studs. Once is gonna be over here. One is back here. We're gonna use an 18-millimeter socket or wrench for the top and we're gonna use an 18-millimeter socket for the bolt.So after you get this mount out, the next thing we have to do is we have to press the studs out. We're putting a spacer blocking here to drop the differential down. And these are not gonna be long enough. What we're gonna do is stick it in a vise, put the nuts back on there and then we're gonna smack them out. Once you get that to knock out of there, you can take that nut back off. And then that'll just pull out.So with the installation of this lift kit, we have multiple things that we need to cut. First thing that we're gonna start off with cutting is the differential. And this is the driver side. And right underneath of the yoke on the bottom side of this, you're gonna have these two fins sticking up. We need to clear these fins because when we drop this whole thing down, we don't want it to hit the crossmember. So we're gonna take a cut off wheel and we're gonna cut most of these off. So the next section we need to cut off on this differential is still on the bottom. It's gonna be on the opposite side and you're gonna have this corner here. We need to cut this corner off just a little bit above the bolts. So we're gonna do that right now. I'll show you how to do that.So now we're all done cutting the diff, the next thing we're gonna do is modify our power steering rack. So you're gonna have this electronic module with these three plugs. We need to trim the edge of this piece off. So first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna unplug all this, move them out of the way and then we'll start cutting. So we're just gonna press down on these tabs to unplug these and swing them out of the way. This one has these red locking tabs. You'll need to slide that back. And we can press down on that to get that unplugged. This one has a little white locking tab. You need to unlock that as well. Basically, we have to cut in between here and here. We need to take some of this out. Next thing we're gonna do is cut the crossmember. So what we're gonna do is grab a tape measure and a sharpie. We've already cleaned off a little area of our crossmember. And we're gonna measure over from this bolt hole. So you want this slanted side facing towards you and we're gonna be on the right side. So we're gonna measure over from the center of this bolt hole two and three-quarters of an inch. We'll make a mark, and then from that, we're gonna measure over three and a half inches. So from that line, we measure over three and a half inches. And we wanna make the bottom of our line a quarter inch up from the bottom. Now, from that bottom line, we're gonna measure one and five-eighths up.The next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna go back under the truck. We're gonna go to the driver side in this crossmember frame. Now, we need to cut a section out of this. What we're gonna do is we're gonna take our tape measure, and we're gonna mark out some areas and then cut a section out of that. So you're gonna have these two holes on the front side. We're gonna measure three-quarters of an inch up from the top of those. We're gonna do that and then make a mark. After that, we're gonna measure two and three-quarters back.So from this line where we marked three quarters, we're gonna measure up and around two and three-sixteenths. So after you mark that whole section off, we're gonna take our cut off wheel. We're gonna cut that out. Next one, the driver side differential mounts. So you have a factory locating pin, we need to cut that off. Now that we're pretty much done with cutting of stuff, we're gonna start with some of the reassembly. So, we're gonna start on the passenger side, putting that axle mount in. We're gonna drop these bolts back through. I'm gonna slide this mount back up into place. And then we can reinstall those factory nuts. Next, we're gonna take those two 18-millimeters and tighten this backup.So at this point in time, we're ready to reinstall our differentials. So we got our pole jack stage. I'm gonna have Tony help me out. We also have both of our spacer blocks and our hardware stages as well. So we're gonna lift this up, set it on the pole jack, and then I'll show you how to get those spacers and that hardware installed. For the passenger side, you're gonna have a thicker wider block. We're gonna place that up there, and you're gonna use the longest gold bolts that they give you. You're gonna get a flat washer on the bolt head. It's going to go up through the bottom and on the top. It's gonna get another flat washer and a nut.So with the driver side, you're gonna have a thinner block. This is gonna have a cut-out. That cut out needs to face towards this flange where the axle bolts on to it. You're gonna use the second largest bolts in the kit. Each one is gonna get a flat washer. These are gonna go up through the bottom and screw into those factory holes. So for these two bolts on the driver side, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket to tighten those up. On the passenger side, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket and wrench to tighten this up.All right. So now that we have this backup in and everything's tightened up, we're gonna go ahead and plug this harness in while we're here. Plug that in on the end. And then you just wanna take all the spots where we pulled it out of the differential and you wanna just plug those back in. That way this stays up nice and tight. After that, we can reconnect our vent tube. And we can get our steering rack back in.Once you get that rack in, we're just gonna put all these factory bolts back in. So the driver side is gonna get these really long bolts. So we're gonna line that up. Get those installed. So we're gonna tighten this two back up using an 18-millimeter socket. Once the rack's in and tight, the next thing we're gonna do is reconnect our steering rack. It's only gonna fit in one way. We're gonna pull up on that, slide it on to the steering rack and then we'll reinstall that factory bolt. After that, we're gonna take an 11-millimeter and tighten that up. So now we're gonna reconnect this power steering plugs. Plug this into each other. Make sure that you press that red locking tab back down. And then you're gonna slide and lock these back into our frame spots, same thing for this one over here. And we can reconnect all these plugs on the other side.So the next thing we're gonna do is install our crossmember. So that section that we cut, that's gonna actually face towards the front. So we're gonna put this up in there, get it situated, and then we'll get those factory bolts back in. Once you get all that hardware installed, we're gonna tighten it up using an 18-millimeter wrench and socket.So next we're gonna install our skid plate. Now, Fabtech says to attach the front to two factory holes, but it does not seem that everything lines up. So we do have this one hole back here. We're gonna put a factory bolt in on this rear crossmember and get that started and then we'll line the two front holes up or drill holes and put in the self-tapping bolts. So if you do have two holes on this front crossmember where this lines up, you can put those factory bolts in. Like I said, we don't have any holes that line up on the front here. So we've marked our holes. What we're gonna do is swing this out of the way, take a 5/16 drill bit. We're gonna drill our pilot holes and then we're gonna install these self-tapping bolts. Make sure you wear safety glasses when you're drilling above your head.Once you get both of those holes drilled, we're gonna install these bolts. Now, you can see that it has this little cutaway here. That's gonna eat into the metal. Each one of these is gonna get a flat washer. We're gonna use a 9/16 socket to get these in. So they give you plenty of self-tapping bolts and washers for this kit. So we have the two in. We're gonna go back and tighten this one up a little bit. You use a 15-millimeter socket for that. Now, this last hole we're gonna drill right in the center of that with a 5/16 then we're gonna put another self-tapping in there.So next thing we're gonna do is assemble our control arms. We do have a good amount of assembly. We have to install our ball joint, our bushings, and a grease fitting, of course. So we're gonna start with the bushings. They're gonna have two different size bushings. You're gonna have one of each from both ends. These larger ones are gonna go in through the inside. That way this grease fitting can grease everything in there. Now you get a packet of grease. You pretty much get a whole packet for each control arm. So before we get these in, we're gonna lube them up and then slide them in. And then we have these little sleeves to install inside of those. So let's get started. So once you squeeze a good amount on there, we're just gonna spread this around the bushing. That way when it goes in there, it'll be nice and lubed up. We don't wanna have it dry at all. So these are just gonna press in through the end. You can do this with your hand. It's pretty easy. And then we wanna wipe that excess off, so. So we'll do the same thing for the other side of this control arm.Next, we're gonna install the sleeves. Now, these are the large gold sleeves that they give you. So we're gonna put a little bit of grease on these. Then we're gonna slide these into these holes. You wanna press it until it's even on both sides. Then we'll do the other side.So next we're gonna install our grease fittings. You're gonna get these little gold grease fittings. There's gonna be four of them. You're gonna have one for each end. So we're going to start those with our hands. And then we're gonna take an 8-millimeter socket and tighten them up. Now, you just wanna get these. Now, you don't need to tighten them up too much. You do the same thing for this other side.So next we're gonna do the ball joint. So this ball joint is gonna come down through the top of the control arm. We're gonna have to wiggle it past the booth. And once we get that in, we're gonna use these four bolts that they give us. Now, you're gonna have a lock washer on here. This is gonna go on the bottom. So we're gonna drop these down through the top and then install those lock washers. And then we'll put the nut back on. We're gonna do that to all four of them and then we'll tighten them up.So once you get all those in, we're gonna take a half-inch wrench and a half-inch deep socket. We're gonna tighten them up. Once we tighten them up, we can torque them to 29-foot-pounds. So we're gonna install the little silver grease fitting that they give us in the kit. We're gonna use a 7-millimeter socket to tighten that up. So now that this one is fully assembled, we wanna grease these before we actually install them in the vehicle. And you can do the same thing for the other side.So at this point in time, we are basically done with the majority of the modification and cutting to install this kit. We have our control arms fully assembled. But before we start putting any of these new parts on, I want to take a moment just to tell you a little bit about what this kit is made of, what it's gonna do for your truck, and how it compares to your stock stuff. So there's two main issues when lifting a vehicle that has independent suspension. One is going to be the ball joint angles. You're adding a spacer in most cases to the top of a strut. That's gonna push your control arms down and make a real sharp angle. It's going to decrease ride quality. It's also going to wear those ball joints out a lot faster.Another issue is your CV angle. This is your half shafts that are up front. And this is for your four-wheel drive. It's gonna put those at a sharp angle. It's also gonna create a lot of bind and it's going to wear those out. So one of the nice things about this kit is actually spaces that axle down.Now, this kit comes with brand new control arms. These control arms are made from thick heavy-duty tubing and they actually have brand new ball joints in. These ball joints are extended range ball joints. So it's gonna reduce some of that angle and give you a little bit better ride quality. Unlike your factory control arms, these are extended range and they're also replaceable. So if they ever wear out, you can swap them out really easily. Just unbolt them, throw a new one in there, and you're good to go.Now, this kit is a relatively easy to install kit compared to most other kits. Most other kits are gonna cut a lot more out of that frame section and those crossmembers, and you're gonna install drop crossmembers as well. So you gotta take out the lower control arms and do a lot of other work that we don't need to do with this kit. And the next thing this kit comes with is strut spacers. These spacers are gonna attach to the factory strut. And that's gonna keep us from buying new struts or even taking these things apart, which is a huge hassle. These are gonna bolt right on top and they're gonna maintain that factory ride quality since we're reusing that factory strut. Now, that's gonna pretty much wrap it up for the front.Now, when we're talking about the rear, the rear is a lot easier than the front. We're gonna get spacer blocks for the rear. And these are actually gonna stack right in between the springs and the factory block. That's gonna give us that additional height. And since we are adding length to that, they're gonna give us brand new shocks as well. Those are really easy to install. We just have some sleeves to press in and then we can put those together. So with that being said, let's show you how this gets installed and what it looks like on the truck.So the first thing we're gonna do before we get this control arm installed, we're gonna take a half-inch drill bit. We're gonna drill out this so that the new ball joint fits. We're gonna drill out the top of the spindle. And be careful when you're drilling to make sure that you don't hit the CV joint. So at this point in time, we're ready to install our control arm.One thing that I would like to point out is that we did install the ball joint wrong. So we had the ball joint facing this way. You'll need to spin that around and mount it to the outside. That way this cup is facing up and you wanna face these bolts up through the bottom as well. So now that we're ready to install this, we're gonna reuse those cam bolts, so we took out from the factory control arms. We're gonna slide this control arm in. And these bolts are gonna face outwards from the inside. You're gonna have these little plastic guides on there and they're gonna line up with the pin holes. That's gonna give you a good reference point in that factory mark. So now that we have this in, we're gonna install our strut. So before we get this strut installed, we need to attach the spacer to the top. Now, since these studs on the strut are a little long, they bottom out and they hit the bottom of the spacer. So we need to cut a little bit off. We're gonna cut about a quarter of an inch off of them and then we're gonna reuse those factory nuts to attach this spacer to the strut. So, I'm gonna show you how to do that right now. We're gonna take a cut off wheel and we're just gonna trim a little excess off.So after you cut those, you wanna make sure that the spacer drops all the way down and just gonna sit flush. I'm gonna install those nuts. You don't want start these a few threads at a time just because it's gonna limit the amount that you can lift this up and get the next nut on. Once we get all those started, we're gonna tighten them all up, making them as even as possible.So we're gonna take an 18-millimeter wrench. We're gonna tighten these up. So I wanna make sure that these are nice and tight. So I'm gonna get a friend to hold this still just while we tighten these the rest of the way. So at this point in time, we're ready to reinstall that strut. You're gonna have brand-new nylon lock nuts and flat washers. Those are gonna go for the three studs up top. So I'm gonna slide this in up under the control arm and then we'll get it attached to the top.At this point in time, we're gonna reattach the lower part of the strut. So you wanna make sure that this CV shaft is on the backside of this strut. Lift this section up. Stick our pole jack underneath. We'll raise it up to where it meets and then we'll put back our bolts. After you get those in, you can tighten them up. So next you're gonna put pressure on the lower control arm. That's gonna push this whole assembly up. We're gonna tighten these top nuts. We're gonna use a 5/8 wrench to tighten them up.All right. So next we're gonna install our upper ball joint into our spindle. So we're gonna push this whole assembly up. Make sure that our four-wheel drive axle is not gonna get stuck. Once you get that in, you're gonna install a cast on that that comes with it. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter to tighten that up. And if you have to, you can put your tie rod back in to keep this from spinning.Next, we're gonna put our tie rod back in. So we're just gonna drop that down in there. Screw that factory nut on and then we're gonna tighten it up. So if this spins, there's two ways you can do it. You can hold this tip right there while you spin that with a wrench or you can pry down on it with a pry bar and use a 21 to tighten it up.So next we're gonna tighten up our control arms. You're gonna use a 21-millimeter wrench for the bolt head in here. That's gonna stay still. We're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to tighten that nut up. After that, we're gonna reattach our half shaft or axle to our differential. So we're gonna reinstall all those factory bolts. Once we get them all in, we're gonna tighten them up. We're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket. We're just gonna go around and make them all even.Next, we're gonna reinstall our sway bar end links. So we're gonna stick that rod up through the bottom and through this plastic sleeve. We're gonna pull our sway bar down. And on the top, it's gonna get a bushing. This little beveled edge is gonna space down and we're gonna put our cap with the welded nut on top. Once that's in, we're gonna use a 15-millimeter wrench and a 15-millimeter socket to tighten it up. So basically done with the reassembly of this side. We do have to connect our ABS and our brake line onto our new upper control arm.The first thing we're gonna do is cut this bracket off. This is a pretty tricky thing to do. What we're gonna do is take vise grips and grab it on the edge of that bracket. And now this bracket in here curls around and grabs onto this brake line. So we're just gonna gently slit this right here so we can peel this open. You're gonna be very careful and make sure that you don't cut into the brake line. Now, if you don't feel comfortable doing something like this, you can simply leave the bracket on. That's totally fine.So once you cut about halfway through that bracket, and you grab a pair of pliers and we're just gonna bend that open. It's gonna allow that brake line to come out. So you're gonna get these little wire retainers in your kit. You're gonna have four of them. We're gonna use two up here. So one is gonna go around the ABS line. One is gonna go around the brake line. And we're gonna bolt them to this little tab right here. So we're gonna use this long little silver bolt that they give you. And we're gonna put a washer on one end. And then when it goes through both of these, it's gonna get a washer and a nylon lock nut on the bottom. And we're gonna do another one around our brake line. We're gonna mount one on the top and one on the bottom. And we're going to use a 7/16 wrench and a 7/16 socket to tighten that up. And we're gonna plug that back in up there. Once you plug it in, we're gonna press that red locking tab back in.All right. So the last step for the front end is going to be to reinstall our front driveshaft. So we wanna make sure that we put it in that same way that we took it out. And since we made a mark, we know that it's right. And once you get it in there, we're gonna reinstall these end caps and then we'll tighten it up. So we're gonna use an 11-millimeter to tighten these up.So now that we're done with the front, we're gonna move on to the rear. Now, the rear is a lot easier than the front. First thing we're gonna do is support our axle with a pole jack. You pretty much do this one side at a time, so we're gonna focus on this side for now. After we get that supporter, we're gonna take our shock out. So we're gonna use a 21-millimeter wrench and a 21-millimeter socket to take this bottom bolt out. Now, the top has a welded nut, so we can just use a 21-millimeter socket. You wanna place a hand on this shock for when you take this bolt out. We'll just wiggle it out.The next thing we're gonna do is remove these U-bolts. We have a spacer to put in here. So we gotta take these off. We're gonna use a 22-millimeter socket to get all four of these nuts off. Now, this should drop enough but you may need to loosen that other side just to get it to drop a little bit. We wanna make sure that we don't pull on any of these lines. So you might wanna disconnect this ABS back here as well.Once you get those nuts off, we're gonna take our plate off the bottom, pull our U-bolts out. Then we're gonna drop the axle down. So once you have the axle dropped down enough, we're gonna install our spacer block. Now, the spacer block has front stamped onto it. So we're gonna place that forward. We replace this pin down so it sits in the axle. Once that drops in, we're gonna raise this back up and we're gonna realign it with our leaf spring pack, and then we'll get our U-bolts installed.So when you raise the axle up, you wanna make sure that the little nub on the bottom of this factory block goes inside of this new block. We're gonna drop down our U-bolts, make sure that they're sitting in the grooves in the top of this plate up here. And we're gonna reinstall the factory bottom half. And then each one of these is gonna get a flat washer from our kit and it's gonna get a large nylon locknut. So after, that, we're gonna tighten these up using that same 22-millimeter. You're gonna tighten these up evenly so all of them are the same. So we've got our spacer blocks in. We have to get our shocks installed. But before we get those installed, we have some sleeves to press in. You're gonna have two sets of sleeves. One set is gonna have a larger diameter inside. Those are the ones that we're gonna use, so they're gonna fit those factory bolts. What we're gonna do is we're gonna spray this inside with a little bi

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • 3 inch Budget Lift Kit
      • Increased Fender Clearance for 33 in. Tall Tires
      • Retains Stock Ride with Factory Shocks and Steel Spacer System
      • DOM Tubular Arms with Heavy Duty Extended Range Ball Joints
      • Relocates Front Differential to Maintain Proper CV Angles
      • Rear Lift Uses 1.5-Inch Rear Lift Block and U-Bolts
      • Choice of Stealth, Performance or Dirt Logic Shocks Absorbers
      • Designed for OEM Cast Aluminum or Stamped Steel Control Arms
      • Fits 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Double Cab and Crew Cab Models

      Description

      Great Price, Fabtech Quality. Give your Chevrolet Silverado 1500 a mild lift without the steep price by using this 3 inch Budget Lift System. This lift kit clears 33 inch tall tires by utilizing thick wall DOM tubular arms, heavy duty ball joints with extended range, and 1.5 inch rear lift blocks and u-bolts — all made to meet and surpass Fabtech's high standards for quality.

      Performance Shocks for Smooth Rides. Aside from giving your truck additional road clearance, this lift kit also lessens vibration and increases damping. A steady, smooth, and quiet ride on your truck is made possible by the extended range upper ball joints and performance rear shock absorbers included in the kit.

      Choice of Shocks. Fabtech 3 inch Budget Lift System is available with your choose of shocks. You can choose between Stealth, Performance or Dirt Logic Shocks. Please be sure to choose your preference from the options listed above.

      Application. This Fabtech 3 inch Budget Lift Kit fits 2014-2018 2WD or 4WD Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Double Cab or Crew Cab models. The kit is made to fit Silverado's equipped with factory Cast Aluminum or Stamped Steel Control Arms. This system is not compatible with Cast Steel Control Arms.

      Fitment: 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018

      MPN# K1070

      K1070M

      K1070DL

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      5.0

      Customer Reviews (1)

      Write a Review

      Ratings Summary

      5.0 out of 5 overall rating from 1 customers

      Installation Time: Full Day




      • October 02, 2017

        Review shared from Fabtech 3-Inch Budget Lift Kit with Shocks (14-18 2WD/4WD Sierra 1500 Double Cab, Crew Cab w/ Cast Aluminum or Stamped Steel Control Arms, Excluding Denali)

        5 2017 - RubenL Installation Time: Full Day

        Looks good.

        I have the four inch kit on my 17 sierra 4x4. Just what I wanted. Rides very good.

        Helpful (44)

      Questions & Answers (11 answers)

      5 Top Rated Questions

      If I stack the blocks is going to give me at least 3 inches of high in the rear, do I need to get a shock spacer or the fabtech performance shocks are bigger than stock?

      • Shock spacers are not required with this kit. The shocks are designed to accommodate the lift height.

      Helpful (3)

      The kit says it will fit 14-18 but when selecting my truck in the vehicle fitment it says it does not fit?

      If I use this kit can I run the factory wheel and use a 275/65r20 tire?

      • Use of the factory wheel and that tire size would require additional trimming/modifications.

      Helpful (0)

      Is this referring to upper or lower control arm material

      • This refers to the upper control arms that are being replaced but the upper and lower OEM control arms are made of the same material.

      Helpful (0)

      will this kit fit the stock 20''s that come with the truck ? Or do i have to run a wheel spacer ? thank you for yout time

      • On their website, Fabtech recommends the following sizes for this lift: Tire Size – 33/12.50R17 Wheel Size – 17×8 with 4.5" backspace Tire Size – 275/65R18 Wheel Size – 18×8 with 4.5" backspace Tire Size – 295/55R20 Wheel Size – 20×9 with 5" backspace.

      Helpful (0)
      Post Your Question
      6 More Questions
      The specs say "The kit is made to fit Sierras equipped with cast aluminum or stamped steel control arms. This system is not compatible with cast steel control arms ". I have a 2015 Sierra 1500 SLT. I did the "magnet test", and I have steel. Now, how do I distinguish between "Cast" or "Stamped" Steel 1 answer
      What offset or back spacing is recommended with this lift? 1 answer
      WILL 35 WORK WITH THE 4" LIFT I HAVE A SET AND DONT WANT TO BY NEW TIRES 1 answer
      Will this make my truck sit level or will it be higher in the front than the rear? 1 answer
      DOes this kit use the factory ball joints or do you have to use uniballs if they ever need to be replaced what’s the part number for the ball joint 1 answer
      Do I need wheel spacers if ill have stock wheels for a 2018 chevy siverado 1500 Z71? If so what size? 1 answer

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Coil Spacers
      • (1) Diff Mount Driver
      • (1) Diff Mount Passenger
      • (1) Upper Control Arm Driver
      • (1) Upper Control Arm Passenger
      • (2) Upper Ball Joints
      • (1) Skid Plate
      • (2) Blocks - 1.5"
      • (4) U Bolt SQ 9/16-18X10.00X2.63
      • (1) Hardware Kit
      • (1) Hardware Subassembly
      • (1) Bushing Kit
      • (2) Rear Shocks