(approx) a Day
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
Open Box from $409.69
What's up, guys? Travis from americantrucks.com, and today, we're taking a look at Zone Offroad's 4.5-inch Suspension Lift with Shocks. And if you own a 2014 or newer Silverado or Sierra 1500 and you got that 4-wheel-drive transfer case underneath there, then this is the lift kit that you'll want if you wanna easily fit up to 35-inch tires with little to no rubbing or clearance issues whatsoever.This truck actually is rolling around on Tuff T15 wheels with a negative 24-millimeter offset, and that actually pushes the wheel out pretty far, which looks good with these really badass fender flares we have, but that's actually a worst-case scenario as far as wheel entire clearance goes because you're increasing the angle of the pivot of the wheel when you're actually going lock to lock.But even though we have this high-negative offset, with 35-inch tires, we still have pretty much no rubbing issues. Yes, it does contact the felt liner inside the front fender well, but it's pretty much a formality, guys. You can honestly just take a pair of snips or even a sawzall, something like that, trim that baby up about an inch or two, and you'll be good to go. Even with suspension articulation, you shouldn't have to worry about any rubbing issues whatsoever.Now, this kit is pretty expensive. It comes in at around the $1,200 price point. That's obviously a lot more expensive than something like a basic spacer lift. But let's face it, guys, when you wanna get this amount of lift on your truck, you have to change things like your suspension geometries. Yes, you can throw some spacers on there in the front and back, and you can generally get around three and a half inches or so. But you're gonna be maxing out your CV angles on your axle shafts upfront, and that's gonna cause early wear and tear on those suspension components. And let's face it. You don't wanna have to spend any money any sooner than you have to, right?So, we are throwing some spacers on top of our factory struts upfront, which actually saves us a little bit of money, but even though we're doing that, we're keeping our suspension geometry in check. And that's because we actually have a differential drop kit with this kit included. That's gonna keep those CV angles looking good. That's gonna increase your suspension articulation off-road. That's basically gonna make your truck a lot more capable than a basic spacer lift.And something else to consider, this kit's actually a little bit less expensive than a lot of the 4-inch kits that are available with comparable components included. So you're getting a little bit more for a little bit less. And overall, the moral of the story is you wanna fit 35s then you gotta go 4.5, right?Now, as far as the install goes, guys, I'm not gonna lie, this is not for first-timers. There are a ton of tools that you're gonna need. You're really gonna need a proper toolbox for this thing. And it's probably gonna take you the better part of a weekend to get this thing installed. I'm gonna give this thing a challenging three out of three wrenches on my difficulty meter. There's plenty of cutting involved, a little bit of welding, but fret not if you guys are up for the challenge. I'm actually gonna walk you through all those install pieces step by step.A couple other things to consider with this lift kit. You are actually getting new shocks out back as well, and you actually get to pick between nitro and hydro shocks. Real quick, hydro shocks are great. They're real smooth. They're comfortable, perfect for the daily commute. They're still an upgrade over the OEM shocks, but if you do wanna take your truck off-road more often than not, then I would offer those nitro shocks. Those are gas charged. Those are gonna help prevent cavitation when you're really putting that suspension through its paces.Now, a couple other things to think about here. Unfortunately, you cannot fit the factory wheels that your Silverado came with because of the new steering knuckle. The tie rod end interferes with the inside of the wheel. It kind of cuts into the lip a little bit, and unfortunately, that's gonna be the case with any 17 or 18-inch wheel with a positive 24-millimeter offset. So you will need to invest in some new wheels. But let's face it. You're probably getting new tires, you might as well take that opportunity while it's there.So, again, if you wanna fit up to 35-inch tires on your Silverado or Sierra, you also wanna improve your overall ride height and you wanna take your truck offroad and you don't wanna worry about bottoming out or anything like that, then Zone Offroad's 4.5-inch suspension lift with shocks is gonna be the ticket. And if you guys decide to stick with this lift kit, like I said, come back to this video in a little bit. I'm gonna show you guys all the tools you need to get the job done, and I'm gonna walk you through all those install pieces step by step.All right. Guys, like I said, you're pretty much gonna need the entire toolbox here. I'll make it real easy for you. You'll need a full wrench set in metric up to 24 millimeters. You'll also need an SAE wrench 1/2 inch at least. You'll also need a full metric socket set. I strongly recommend having 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive. You'll need metrics up to 24 millimeters, and you're also gonna need this big 36-millimeter guy. Those are for your axle shaft nuts. You'll need a T30 Torx bit for your rotor retaining screw. Obviously, it goes without saying, you'll need the standard drive ratchets to accommodate those. You'll also need some extensions. You'll need a flathead screwdriver or some sort of trim panel removal tool. You'll need a set of metric Allen keys, and then you're also gonna need a torque wrench as well as a breaker bar and a pry bar.You'll need a dead blow mallet with a conventional hammer and some spray lubricant to help knock some stuff loose. And we're gonna be doing a fair amount of cutting, so you're gonna need a sawzall to get the big stuff done. I also recommend having either an air saw or a grinder to make some of those smaller cuts. Obviously, it goes without saying, you'll need a measuring tape, and you're gonna need some eye pro to protect your eyes. To remove your differential, I strongly recommend that you have some ratchet straps to keep that thing in place. If you're using some sort of pole jacks or anything like that, you'll need some snips, and it's definitely helpful to have some needle-nose pliers. And then lastly, you wanna hang your calipers out of the way. So you'll need some bungee cord or some little hooks to hang the calipers. Now, these are just the required tools, guys. We'll show you what optional tools are gonna make the job a lot easier.So here are all the optional tools that are really gonna make this job a lot easier. Obviously, these impact swivel sockets are gonna make it a lot easier to tackle things like your ball joints inside those steering knuckles. These ratcheting wrenches are gonna make it a lot easier for things like your struts and all those small nuts and bolts that are hard to reach places, and it goes without saying, impact guns are definitely the gold standard here doing big work like this. These ball end Allen-head sockets are gonna be very useful, again, especially for that upper ball joint in the new steering knuckle. A proper trim panel removal tool makes it a lot easier for all those brake lines and ABS lines. One of these little ratchets, air ratchets can make it a lot easier, again, in small places where conventional ratchets or big impact guns may not fit, and then lastly, a big old adjustable wrench is gonna come in handy for those things like the lower control arm bolts and nuts to close your steering link and tie rod end links.All right. Guys, once you've got your tools out, you obviously wanna remove your wheels from your vehicle. Make sure your vehicle is supported safely with Jackson jack stands. The first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna remove our caliper assembly here. There's two bolts holding it in place, two hex bolts, one on top and bottom here behind. You'll need a 19-millimeter socket for these. Now, if your caliper is seized on there pretty well, it's useful to have a pry bar. We're gonna go ahead and we're gonna hang our caliper up out of the way somewhere near our frame here with a bungee cord.Okay. Next, we're gonna tackle our tie rod end link here. You gotta pop this nut from the stud. In order to do that, you'll need a 21-millimeter deep socket. Now, the stud might spin inside of the knuckle here. If that does happen, what you'll need to do is you're gonna have to actually swap your tooling out. You'll need a 21-millimeter wrench. You're gonna actually have to hold the stud using a 10-millimeter socket. All right. So that's spinning. So we're gonna grab a wrench, and we'll get a 10-millimeter socket on that stud.All right. Next, we're gonna tackle our bottom strut bolts here. Pretty simple, you'll need a 15-millimeter socket for these. All right. Next, we're gonna disconnect our sway bar end link here. We're gonna be holding this nut in place up top using a 15-millimeter wrench, and we're actually gonna spin the stud on the bottom using a 15-millimeter socket.All right. Guys, next, we're gonna remove our caliper bracket. That's gonna take the weight off of our assembly here, then we can remove our rotor and continue on. In order to remove the caliper bracket, you'll need an 18-millimeter socket. If you're using power tools, it's helpful to have an impact swivel socket because there's a little bit of a squeeze in here.Next, we're gonna remove our axle nut on the end here. This might be covered with a dust cap. If it is, it's pretty simple. All you gotta do is grab a flathead screwdriver and gently tap the dust cover off. Make sure you don't crush it or anything like that because you will be reusing it. At any rate, once you got that dust cap removed, you'll need a 36-millimeter socket to break this nut loose. It's very helpful to have an impact gun for this one.All right. Next, we gotta remove this little retaining bolt here that actually holds the rotor to our assembly. This is a Torx head, so we need a T30 Torx bit to remove this. All right. Now that we have some weight removed from our rotor, in the end of our axle shaft here, we're gonna pop our ball joint free here. You'll need an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench for this. Now, once you got that nut pretty much loosened all the way, you wanna keep it on there a little bit. We might have to tap the knuckle with a hammer in order to separate the ball joint.All right. Once it's popped free, you can go ahead and remove that nut completely. All right. Now that we have our upper ball joint separated, we wanna take some tension off of our ABS line here. So we're gonna disconnect it from the bracket up here, and then we're gonna pop it out of these plastic retainers on the upper control arm.All right. Next, we're gonna tackle our lower ball joint here. This guy is a 24-millimeter deep socket. All right. Once you've popped that stub free and the joint itself is loose from the spindle, the entire assembly should separate from the axle shaft. You just gotta gently rotate it out. All right. Now we can remove our axle shaft. It's secured on the flange back here to the differential with a couple of 15-millimeter bolts so you'll need a 15-millimeter socket. It's helpful to use a deep socket with a long extension for this.Okay. Now we're ready to remove our strut assembly, so we can pull everything out of here. There's three nuts securing it in the top of our housing here. You'll need an 18-millimeter wrench to loosen these. Now, there might be some plastic retainers here for your wiring harness on top of these studs. You gotta take your time to remove them by hand.Okay. So we have everything removed from the wheel well. Now we're gonna hop underneath the vehicle, start tackling all of our drivetrain stuff, including our differential and crossmembers. In order to do that, though, we have to disconnect our sway bar from the vehicle completely first. It's held on with this little bracket, one on either frame rail. You'll need a 10-millimeter socket to remove this stuff.All right. Once you remove this last bolt, the sway bar will come down. It is a little heavy, so make sure you got a good hand on it. Okay. Now we can remove the splash guard here. It's held on with six bolts. You got four smaller bolts on the bottom. You can get away with using that 10-millimeter socket. Then you got two larger bolts upfront. Now, these two larger bolts, you'll need a 15-millimeter socket for it.All right. Now we're gonna tackle both of these crossmember support braces here. Again, you'll need that 15-millimeter socket for both. All right. Now we're gonna remove our rear crossmember. It's secured with two bolts and nuts on either side, four in total. In order to remove these, you'll need an 18-millimeter wrench and an 18-millimeter deep socket.All right. Guys, now we're ready to remove our rear crossmember. This guy can kind of be stuck in place once you remove the hardware, so you might need a large pry bar as well as a dead blow mallet. All right. Now we're ready to disconnect the front driveshaft from our transfer case. In order to do that, you wanna make sure you mark the relationship between the driveshaft and the input flange on there. We're gonna grab a marker, make sure we mark this up nice and clearly before we remove these four bolts. Now, once you've marked this, you'll need to rotate the driveshaft in order to remove these bolts, and you'll need an 11-millimeter socket to do so. All right. Guys, we got our driveshaft disconnected. We're almost ready to start making some cuts to the control arm pocket here, but we actually have to remove our control arm entirely. In order to do that, you are gonna need a 24-millimeter deep socket, and you can get away with an 18-millimeter wrench for the bolt itself.All right. Now that our lower control arm is out of the way, we can finally make the cut that we need to to this pocket. That's gonna help with clearance and with all of our new hardware. Now, before you do make the cut here, you'll notice we've cleaned this up here. The undercoating on these trucks is flammable, guys, and when you're using power tools, you wanna play it safe. You don't wanna start a fire. So just grab some Goof Off or some brake cleaner, get rid of all that undercoating so you expose that metal underneath. Once you've done so, go ahead and grab a ruler. You're gonna want to mark 3.5 inches in on the pocket itself. Now, once you've made that mark on this side, you're gonna wanna do the same on the opposite side. We're gonna make two vertical cuts with the sawzall, and then we're actually gonna come up in the middle with a small cutoff wheel in order to cut the top out of our pocket.All right. So our sawzall blade danced a little bit. This cut ended up being a little bit off-angle. So we're gonna straighten that out with our cutoff wheel then we'll come up in the middle, and we'll finish everything up. All right. Guys, now that we've finally cut that off here, we're gonna clean up some of these messy cuts, make it nice and flush that way we can weld that plate in place.Okay. Now we're gonna finally remove our differential. Now, this guy is heavy. It's really awkward, so you wanna definitely have a friend with you when you do this. But in our case, we're actually using a transmission stand here. We have some ratchet straps securing it with some wood blocks. It's held in by four bolts and nuts. There's two on this side here and then two on the opposite side. Now, in order to access both of these nuts on this side, you're gonna have to disconnect all of these wires here from this rack and pinion assembly.All right. Now that that wiring is out of the way here, we can tackle both of those nuts. We'll need a 21-millimeter socket. You can use a standard deep socket for this guy. This one's a little bit of a squeeze, so you need to break that loose with a wrench, and then you'll need to turn it quarter turns by hand in order to remove it completely. All right. Now we're gonna tackle the bolts on the driver's side here. It is a bit of a squeeze with the flange right here. So it's helpful to have a swivel socket if you're using power tools like me. Obviously, you also want an extension for these.All right. Guys, our differential is finally disconnected from the truck. We made sure it's nice and secure here to our stand. I also got my buddy Joe helping me today because this thing's heavy as hell and it's very awkward. You don't want this thing falling on you. Now, we're gonna slowly lower this thing down, but one thing to keep note of, there's still a wiring harness that's attached to the actuator, and there's also a couple of plastic clips on top of the diff securing it. So, as you lower this down, you wanna make sure you tackle that wiring harness, disconnect it so you don't rip it out of the truck.All right. Guys, so we lowered our diff just enough to expose the breather hose that we have to disconnect. And immediately behind it here, you can see that wiring harness that I was talking about with these little plastic fittings. I couldn't show you guys removing those earlier, but they're located inside of these little holes on top of the diff. Again, you just gotta pop them out with a trim panel tool or just with your hands. Then go ahead and carefully remove this breather hose. Then you can continue lowering the diff.Okay. So you can see we finally got our diff cleared. These tongs gave us a little bit of a problem right here. So what you can do is actually rotate the entire diff so that the input flange back here rotates down. That'll give you enough clearance. Once you've done that, you can see we have all this slack in our line here. Go ahead and pop this fitting off, and then we can remove the diff completely.All right. Guys, so we finally got our diff removed. We got all this space to work with right here. So my buddy, Joe, is gonna actually tackle all that welding of this bracket right here. He's the master of all things TIG and big. While he's handling that, we're gonna do some work to that differential. We need to make some cuts and clean some things up. Let's go ahead and get started.All right. Guys, our diff is on the floor here. We're gonna make our modifications that we need to make to this bracket here. Now, what you're gonna do is you're gonna cut the rear portion of this bracket along the length of the shaft itself. Now, this is aluminum, so it's actually pretty easy to cut compared to steel. You're still gonna wanna have to have safety glasses, have a couple of different blades [inaudible 00:23:06] two because this is pretty thick nonetheless. Once we cut this tongue off completely, we're gonna grind it down, make it look nice and clean, then we're actually gonna trim up the other side here. We're gonna remove some metal on this piece.All right. I stopped down for a moment just to check the progress of my cut, make sure we're going nice and straight here. We wanna be flush with the shaft itself. And we're gonna be ending right at the end of this actual bracket. So we're gonna stop right here before this big flange area. Then we're gonna come in from the side and finish up our cut right there. Then we'll grind all this down with our wheel. All right. Guys, so, as you can see, we got pretty lucky. Our cut was actually very clean for a sawzall. We're gonna go ahead and deburr this, clean it up a little bit more so we don't have any sharp edges on there, and then we're gonna tackle the other side here.Okay. So we've finished the front side. Now we're gonna take a little bit of meat off of this rear bracket. We're not cutting it off entirely. What you're gonna do, go ahead and grab your measuring tape, center it up with the center of this hole, and measure it exactly 1-inch to the edge. Go ahead and mark that and then we can cut again. All right. So we marked our cut. I'm gonna get this started with my wheel, but I'm actually gonna be using this high-speed air saw. This is pretty accurate. It's not gonna jump around and gouge this thing.All right. Guys, now that we've finished cleaning up those cuts, now we're gonna install our center diff bracket. This guy bolts directly to the shaft right here. We're gonna be removing four of these pink bolts. Now, the factory bolts are 15-millimeter flanges, so you'll need a 15-millimeter socket.All right. Now that we've removed those bolts, we wanna grab our center diff bracket and orient it in the correct direction, line up these four holes here. Now, you're gonna be grabbing bolt pack number 446 provided in the kit. That's gonna have these clear zinc-plated bolts inside with these flat washers. These are 17-millimeter flanges. So we need a 17-millimeter socket. We're gonna be torquing these down to 33-foot pounds. You're also gonna need some Loctite on these guys.All right. Now, to get these started, I'm gonna be using a 1/2-inch ratchet here. I'm just gonna get them tight enough that they start to give me some resistance. I'm gonna apply equal torque to each of them. Once they get tight enough, we'll drive them home with our torque wrench to 33-foot pounds.All right. Guys, our differential's ready to go, but before we throw it in place, we have to do a little bit more cutting. We have to make a little bit more clearance for our shafts. Now, these guys right here, these little flared ends of these pockets are gonna interfere with us. We have to cut these a little bit. Pretty simple stuff, go ahead and grab your measuring tape, and what you wanna do is measure from the inside of the pocket itself, this flat surface. You wanna have about 3/8 of an inch of this flange remaining, so pretty simple stuff. Just cut about halfway down the middle.All right. Guys, now we're gonna install our passenger side differential bracket, which is gonna mount right up to the pre-threaded holes. We're reusing our factory bolts. So go ahead and get both bolts hand-tightened, and then you'll need to drive them home using an 18-millimeter socket. It's helpful to have an impact swivel socket with an extension if you're using power tools like me. Then we're gonna do the same thing for the driver's-side differential bracket. Again, that's bolting up to our factory studs using the factory nuts, and it is a bit of a squeeze. So you'll likely need a box end wrench or a ratcheting wrench to drive both of these home.Okay. Now we're ready to throw our diff in place. We're gonna secure it to those new brackets on either side that we just threw in place. We got everything secured on our stand here with our ratchet strap. Everything's nice and leveled out. Again, when you go to line up the mounting points on the differential with the brackets, you're gonna be securing it with this hardware right here. This is from bag number 446. You're gonna need this really big 5/8 bolt with that really thick washer on there as well as the appropriate nut. And then you're gonna be grabbing these smaller one and three quarter inch bolts, again, with the appropriate flat washers and nuts. I'll let you guys know what hardware you need to tighten that down shortly once we get this thing in place.Now, before you throw this in place all the way, make sure you have enough clearance. You wanna make sure you plug in your actuator as well. All right. Now, when I go to throw this bolt in, we're just leaving all this hardware hand-tight for now because we're actually gonna get both of our crossmembers in place before we torque everything down.All right. Guys, now we're gonna reconnect our front driveshaft here. We're gonna be reusing those factory bolts and the little brackets on here as well. Now, as I'm reconnecting all of this hardware, I'm just hand-tightening these bolts for now. Once I get all four of them hand-tight and then flush, we're gonna drive them home with our torque wrench. And we're gonna need to tighten these down to 19-foot pounds.All right. Now we're gonna throw our rear crossmember in place. We're gonna be securing this to our truck using our lower control arms factory bolts. And we're actually gonna be installing our lower control arms with the new bolts. Go ahead and get these through here. You wanna get a bolt through at least one side. Go ahead and get that washer and that nut on the other side and hand-tighten it. All right. Once you got that hand-tightened, it may rest in place. It might swing down. Go ahead and get that bolt end up through the other side. And again, we're just leaving all this stuff hand-tightened until we get everything in place. Then we'll drive everything home and torque these back.Now we're gonna do the same thing with our front crossmember. Again, make sure you line up all those holes. We are reusing our factory lower control arm bolts, nuts, and washers for this. Now, this may be a bit of a squeeze, especially since you have to line up that center bracket on the diff. It might be helpful to get a bolt in one side, and then you can swing it up and do the other side.Okay. Now that our diff and our crossmembers are in place, we're gonna secure the crossmembers to the diff using these zinc yellow bolts in the kit as well as the appropriate flat washers and nuts. You'll need a 22-millimeter deep socket to tighten down the nut and you'll need a 21-millimeter wrench to hold the flange on the bolt.All right. So I drove this home on the lowest setting on my impact gun. Now we're gonna torque it to spec. For both of these bolts...for both crossmembers, you're gonna torque these to 90-foot pounds. Okay. So as you saw, the bolt for the rear crossmember has to go in towards the differential because there's not enough clearance to get the bolt in on the other side out towards the passenger side. In that case, you're gonna have to switch up your tool. You'll actually need a 21-millimeter socket for the bolt head itself. It's also helpful to have an impact swivel if you're using a gun like me, and you'll need a 7/8 or a 22-millimeter wrench for the nut itself.All right. Guys, now we're gonna tighten down the passenger side bolt here for our differential. Again, I'm gonna drive it home on my lowest setting using my impact gun, and then we're gonna actually torque it to spec. Now, we need to torque this to a 120-foot pounds, and you'll need a 24-millimeter wrench and socket. Okay. Now, that our passenger side is done up, we're gonna do the same thing to our driver's side. We're gonna torque these to 65-foot pounds, and we're gonna drive them home using a 19-millimeter wrench and socket. Now, getting your wrench on the bolt head on the back here can be a little bit of a pain. So you're just gonna have a feel for it, and it might actually help to spin the stud inside the hole in order to help see it right.Okay. Now we're gonna throw our skid plate in place. You're gonna be using the pre-threaded holes on the crossmembers, two on the front, one on the rear on the left-hand side. In order to secure it, you're gonna grab bag number 447. You're gonna grab these gold zinc-plated bolts inside the kit. These are half-inch bolts with half-inch washers. You'll need a 19-millimeter socket to tighten these down.Okay. With the skid plate in place, we're gonna install the support strut on the other side of the crossmembers here using the pre-threaded holes on the passenger side, the outermost holes. You're gonna be using those remaining zinc-plated bolts in the kit with that 19-millimeter deep socket. Now, the support brace is gonna install in only one direction. The tabs are actually bent so that they rest flush with the crossmembers, and in order to do that, you have to orient the tabs on the side so that they're facing down.Okay. Guys, next we're gonna throw the lower control arms back in place, and since we've reused our factory lower control arm bolts for the crossmembers, you're gonna have to grab these big bolts provided in the kit. It's gonna be a little bit of a pain trying to get the lower control arms back into the pockets because of the rubber bushings on here. So it's very helpful to have a dead blow mallet. And remember, when you go to throw these in place, you want the ball joint facing down and you want your end link for your sway bar to be facing towards the rear of the vehicle.Okay. Guys, now we're gonna throw the spacers onto our strut assemblies so that we can reinstall the struts on our truck. Now, you're gonna grab bolt pack 629. You're gonna grab the nuts and flat washers provided in the kit. You'll need a 17-millimeter deep socket to install the spacer onto the strut assembly itself, and you'll need to torque all this hardware down to 30-foot pounds.All right. Now, as you might have seen, getting any sort of ratchet or socket on these nuts before they're tightened all the way is a little bit of a challenge. So you might have to use a regular wrench in order to tighten the hardware down all the way, and then once the nuts are seated all the way on the studs, you should have enough clearance to get a 17-millimeter deep socket on there so you can torque these to spec. If that is not gonna be the case, then not to worry. We'll use the good old German standard of guten tight for these.Okay. So we got our nuts driven all the way down here. We were able to get a torque wrench to fit that 3/8 drive with a chrome socket here, and again, we're gonna tighten these to 30-foot pounds. Okay. Now, as we throw our strut in place, we're gonna be reusing those factory flange nuts that originally secured our strut to our truck. In order to tighten this stuff down, you will need an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench or an 18-millimeter deep socket.All right. Next, we're gonna secure the bottom of our strut to our lower control arm. Now, we're reusing the factory bolts, but unfortunately, our speed clips did break, not a big deal. You can replace that with some basic M10 hardware. So I just grabbed a replacement nut with a crush washer and a flat washer, and actually loosened up the top of the strut, once again, made it a little bit easier to line these holes up, give me a little bit more play. Now, to tighten these down, again, for the factory bolt, you'll need a 15-millimeter socket or a wrench. And since I'm using this new M10 nut here, I'm gonna be using a 17-millimeter socket or wrench on the other side.All right. Guys, we're making good progress. We're ready to set up our new steering knuckle with our original hub and rotor assembly. Now, in order to remove this, you will need an 18-millimeter socket. You're gonna be pulling these three bolts here with this partial ring underneath. You're also gonna be pulling the dust shield off, and we're gonna have to trim that in a minute, but I'll show you guys how that's done.Okay. So once you have the dust shield removed, you're gonna need to come over to this corner right here and measure exactly one half an inch. You're gonna mark that spot, and you're gonna cut all the way along this edge up to this little corner right here. That's gonna help with clearance issues. Your dust shield might be a little dirty, so you might not be able to use a marker or a wax pen. Honestly, you can just score it up with a flat head.All right. Guys, once you've made the cut to that dust shield, go ahead and throw it on top of the rotor assembly. Once again, you wanna make sure that your ABS line comes to this little cutout right here. And once you've got the dust shield seated on the rotor/hub assembly, you can go ahead and throw your new knuckle in place. And we're gonna tighten these bolts down. And we're gonna need to tighten these bolts down to 133-foot pounds. So we're gonna drive them home with our impact first, get them nice and tight, and then we'll finish torquing on this back.Okay. Guys, once you got everything assembled, you can throw the knuckle back onto your control arms and make sure you get those nuts onto your upper and your lower ball joints. Now, since our truck has the aluminum lower control arms, you're gonna need this very important piece right here. It's a little spacer. Without the spacer, the ball joint on the bottom won't be able to seat correctly, and you'll have all kinds of safety issues when you're driving around. Okay. Guys, so as you might have seen a moment ago, it might be a little bit difficult getting the upper ball joint through the top of the knuckle here. If that's the case, not a huge deal. Go ahead and grab a pry bar, and you're gonna actually put the end of the pry bar inside the coil. Use that to get leverage on the upper control arm to push that stub through all the away. Then you can hand-thread that nut in place.Okay. Guys, next we're gonna throw our CV shafts back in place. This is a little bit of a squeeze. You wanna take your time. You don't wanna mash up the splines on the shaft right there. It will be very helpful to have some spray lubricant to help seat it inside the hub and rotor assembly. Once you've got that spline seated in there, I'll show you guys how to get the CV spacer on the differential side.Okay. Guys, once you got those splines seated in there well enough, go ahead and put that little washer that you had on there originally. You also wanna grab that large 36-millimeter nut. Go ahead and thread him on there all the away. Now, we're gonna drive him home with our half-inch impact, get him nice and tight, then we're gonna torque it to spec. This guy's gonna need a lot of pressure. You're gonna push him to 155-foot pounds.All right. Next, we're gonna throw our spacer in here for our CV shaft. You want the recessed portion to be facing the CV shaft itself and you want this raised portion to be facing towards the differential. It's gonna line up with the flange right here. Now, you're gonna have to put a little bit of compression on the CV shaft as you try and get the spacer in here. Be careful not to pinch yourself. Now, I'm just hand-threading these all the way until they're flush, and then once they're flush, we're gonna have to torque these to 45-foot pounds. You're gonna need to torque these in a star pattern as if you're putting lugs on a wheel. You wanna take your time with that. Make sure you're doing it correctly. Make sure you're not over-tightening because we are working with a plastic spacer. We don't wanna over-torque it, crush it. That could cause some problems with our driveline and vibration while we're driving around.All right. Guys, now we're gonna tighten down our lower end or upper ball joints, lower ball joints with a 24-millimeter deep socket. You might be able to get lucky and use a deep socket by itself. However, if the stud starts spinning with the nut, what you'll need to do is grab an Allen key 10 millimeter and actually hold the stud. Grab a 24-millimeter wrench to tighten the nut down.All right. Next, we're gonna tighten down the upper ball joint. This guy is an 18-millimeter nut. It is a very tight space in here. We have some mounting points right here as well. So you can't really get a deep socket on there. We're gonna get away with trying to use a shallow as much as possible. And if the studs start spinning like the bottom, it might help to put some pressure on the upper control arm so that it presses against the top of the knuckle. All right. Now that we got this nut tightened up enough, we should have just enough clearance that we can get that deep socket on there. And we're just checking our torque spec here. We need to go to 37-foot pounds.All right. Guys, next step is tackling our tie rod end. If you checked ahead in the instructions, we have to trim some metal off of the end here. So, we're gonna seat this in the knuckle. That way the entire assembly doesn't rotate on us. And we're gonna go real old-school with a big old adjustable wrench here to break this nut loose. All right. Guys, so we went ahead, we measured our new cut length here. For our tie rod end, you have to measure four and seven-eighths of an inch. Now, I'm actually supporting the end of the tie rod here with a little nut just to make sure that it's flush so that the cut's squared up.All right. So we cut our end link. We cleaned up that. Now we're gonna actually cut the tie rod itself here. Now, you wanna be careful with these threads. You're gonna measure exactly one half-inch. And in order to clean up the threads, you wanna leave this retaining nut on there. You can actually just spin that off as you clean with the threads. It's just fine. All right. So, we cleaned up our threads here by removing that nut. Now we're gonna reinstall the tie rod end link with this nut.Now, in order to make sure that your toe is acceptable enough to be driving around, you want about 1/8 of an inch of the thread showing once you put this nut on. So, that's gonna be about three grooves and two landings. All right. Now we can get our tie rod end link in place. Now, when I put this nut on, I actually went a little bit past that second groove. Then I'm gonna back it back off against the end link to make sure it's nice and tight. Now, these threads might feel a little bit corroded, so you might have some difficulty getting the end link on there. If that's the case, you can back the nut itself off and on again a couple times to help clean them up a little bit more. It's also helpful to have some PB B'laster to make this easier.Now we can reinstall the nut for our tie rod end link. Again, this is a 21-millimeter deep socket. Okay. So, these studs started spinning. That's not a problem. What we're gonna do is we're gonna hold the nut with a 21-millimeter wrench, and we're gonna spin that stud using a 10-millimeter socket. Now, keep in mind you have to spin the stud in the opposite direction. Okay. Next, we need to get some slack in our brake lines so that it can reach the rotor assembly. So we're gonna remove this first bracket on the upper control arm, and we need a 10-millimeter socket for this.All right. Guys, now we have to get our brake line out of this bracket right here. We're gonna leave the bracket seated to the vehicle, and what we need to do is cut an opening just big enough so we can get the line out of there. I'm gonna be using this little air saw to give me the most control. All right. Now that our brake line's free of that bracket, we can remove it. You'll need a 13-millimeter socket.Okay. Now we can install our new bracket. It's gonna change the orientation, or the direction rather, of our brake line. You want the bracket so that it's facing away from the inside of the strut here. You want this opening to be facing up towards the top of the vehicle, and you will be reusing that bolt that we just removed. Go ahead and hold onto that 13-millimeter socket with your ratchet. All right. Now, to get the new brake line into our bracket here, pretty straightforward, go ahead and make sure the skinny end comes through this opening right here, push it back up, and it should stay in place.All right. Guys, now we need to get this secondary bracket off of this brake line. It's actually pretty thick metal as you can see here. Now, they tell us to simply bend this thing out of the way. Honestly, guys, this is a rubber hose in here that's under pressure with our brake fluid, and you're probably more likely to break this rubber hose than you are to get this bracket off successfully. Now, if you want to, you can leave it there. I don't like the idea of that. I'm gonna actually cut the bracket off, it's just all this excess metal. We'll end up having a little bit of a metal sleeve on here, but that's not gonna cause any problems. So what I'm gonna do is I'm actually gonna secure the secondary bracket back to the control arm with that nut. I'm just gonna hand-tighten it on there, and again, I'm gonna grab a grinder or my air saw and just carefully remove this.All right. Guys, now we're gonna throw the rotor back on here. When you go to throw the rotor back on, make sure you're lining up the pre-threaded holes on the rotor so that you can get your retaining bolt back in here, which is a torque set again. So, again, you'll need that T30 Torx bit for this.All right. Next, we're gonna tighten our upper ball joint here. You really can't get any sort of power tools in here. So you'll need to grab an 18-millimeter wrench, get it seated on the nut, and you'll actually have to spin the stud. Now, I'm using one of these extended balls end sockets because it allows you to tighten stuff down at an odd angle, and that's really what you're gonna need to get this in here. Once you get this tightened down all the way, however, you should have just enough clearance so that you can get a socket on here so that you can torque it to spec.Okay. So once you've got that tightened enough, you should be able to get a socket on here, and it's gonna be hard with a deep socket I'll be honest, guys. You might need an impact swivel socket like this just because of how tight the space is. You can see it's not really seated perfectly, but it is enough that it's not gonna strip the bolt out, or the nut rather, and we're just torquing this a few turns.All right. Guys, now we can throw the mounting bracket on for our brake caliper. And again, to secure the mounting bracket to the knuckle, you'll need these bolts originally, and you'll also need an 18-millimeter socket to tighten this here. All right. Now we can throw our pads back in place, and then we can reinstall the caliper itself. For the caliper bolts, they're slightly larger than the bracket bolts. You'll need to grab your 19-millimeter socket for those.All right. Guys, we're just about done. The last thing we need to do is secure our ABS line. We got a bunch of slack in here. We're gonna keep it really simple. We're just gonna zip tie it to the upper control arm. Okay. Guys, the front end's pretty much together. Now we're gonna reinstall our sway bar. A little trick, if you've got a floor jack or a pole jack, you can let it rest on there in the middle, let it balance. You're gonna need these spacers provided in the kit and you're also gonna need the bolts provided in bolt pack number 451. Go ahead and line up the spacers/blocks for the sway bar with the holes in the sway bar mount, push those bolts through, and thread them into the frame rail like so. We're just gonna get these hand tight on either side. Then we'll drive them home.Now that our sway bar's not going anywhere, we can install our new end link. So, go ahead and grab that rod, grab that first cup with that rubber bushing, and press it through the lower control arm like so. Do not put it through the sway bar just yet. What you're gonna do, grab a second rubber bushing, make sure it's face down like so, and grab a second cup. You're gonna be sandwiching those together like so. All right. Once you've got that part done, grab your 5-inch sleeve. Send it through the middle. Grab a third cup. Rest it on top of the sleeve all by a third rubber bushing. Then, go ahead and thread it through the sway bar. Make sure that little raised end of that rubber bushing is actually seated inside the sway bar itself. Grab your fourth rubber bushing. Rest it on top. Grab your final cup, and then grab your nut and place on top. This is a nyloc nut. So you won't be able to really spread it on there too much.All right. Once you've got all this hardware secured here, do not tighten it down just yet. You wanna leave it loose so we can get the other end link in the other side. Then we'll actually tighten down the sway bar mounts on the frame rails, and then we'll come back and we'll tighten all this stuff down using a 14-millimeter wrench and 14-millimeter socket. Okay. So once you have both of your sway bar end links loosely fitted, go ahead and tighten down the mounts here. You'll need a 5/16 Allen head socket. Okay. Guys, the sway bar end links are tightened down, and we're finally done with the front end. You probably look a little bit like me, but congratulations because the toughest part is out of the way. The lift blocks are very easy.Now, before we actually head out back, though, I really want you guys to take your time and triple check everything. We just pretty much removed every single suspension component, and with all the steps that we've been doing here, it's easy to miss a thing or two. Now, one other thing to note, we did not tighten down the bolts and nuts for the lower control arms, and that's for a pretty good reason. If you torque those to spec with the suspension not under load, you risk crushing those bushings in there and actually tearing them. So we're not gonna tighten those just yet. We're gonna tackle the rear lift blocks. We'll get the wheels on. We'll gently lower everything down. Then we'll torque those things down, and that'll wrap up this entire install.Okay. Guys, so we're back here on our driver's side frame rail. We've got to remove this little bolt right here. This is a bracket for the parking brake. We have to get some slack in there. In order to remove this bolt, you'll need a 13-millimeter stock. Once you've popped that bolt free, you wanna get the bracket itself out of the frame rail.Okay. Next, we got to get some slack in the ABS line here. There's two of these little brackets or plastic retainers. So you can get away with a flathead screwdriver. Just gently pry off on it to get it out of the frame rail. All right. Once you got that top bracket removed, go ahead and do the same thing to the bottom one here. Again, it's useful to have a pry tool or a flathead screwdriver. All right. We've gotta get slack in one more thing here, and that's this brake line bracket right here, a simple bolt securing it to the top of the diff, and we'll get that with the 10-millimeter socket.All right. Guys, next we're gonna loosen up our shocks here. You'll need a 21-millimeter wrench and a 21-millimeter socket. All right. Guys, for the top mount for your rear shocks, the nut is actually welded to the mounting bracket. You'll only need your 21-millimeter socket. Okay. So now we have our axle supported with some pole jacks on either side here, next, we're gonna loosen up our U-bolts for our factory blocks here. These are 21-millimeter nuts as well. So you can use that same deep socket. All right. Once you've pulled those nuts, you can also remove the U-bolts in the factory block. Once you remove the first block, go ahead and do the same thing for the other side.Okay. Guys, now we're ready to throw our lift blocks in place. They are tapered. You want the tapered end to go towards the front of the truck. That's gonna help correct the pinion angle on your driveshaft. You also have these little holes in these alignment pins in here. You wanna make sure that those get seated on the leaf pack as well as the axle itself. You wanna very carefully lower the axle on those four jacks/jack stands as you're doing this. And it's very helpful to have a friend with you. One other thing to consider as well, we do have a jack underneath the pinion itself because, well, the axle likes to rotate, and having two pole jacks doesn't really help too much, so just keep an eye on that as you're doing this.Okay. Once you got the lift block seated in the top of the axle, you wanna take your time, raise the axle back up, again, make sure the lift block is on both sides. You wanna line up that alignment pin on the leaf pack with the hole in the lift block. All right. Now that our lift block is seated, we're gonna throw our new U-bolts in place and get those tightened down with the provided hardware. When you're sitting these U-bolts, you wanna make sure they're sitting inside the pocket on top of the leaf pack. All right. Guys, now that we have all these nuts in place, we can go ahead and tighten them down. You're gonna be stepping up your socket from a 21 to a 22-millimeter.All right. Guys, now we gotta tackle our bump stops here. We gotta throw those extensions in place. Now, there's a 10-millimeter bolt inside of here. So you'll need a 10-millimeter socket. It's helpful to use a deep socket as well as a small extension as you can see. All right. Once the bump stop is free and clear, you wanna grab the spacer, line up the bump stop with the spacer, and grab the remaining Allen head bolts provided in the kit with those flat washers. You'll need a 5/16 socket for these with an extension, and it's helpful to get it hand-threaded first with the extension and the socket. And once you get it seated, you can drive it home with your ratchet or your impact gun.All right. Guys, we're just about finished up here. Next, we gotta get our shocks in place, but before we do that, we gotta get those sleeves and bushings in there. These guys have to be pressed in place. It could be a little bit of a pain in the ass. There's a couple ways you can go about this, but you're gonna need some grease or some lubricating oil. Make sure you get a lot of oil and grease in there, lube it up nicely, go ahead and grab a dead blow mount and tap them in, or you could use a table vise. We're gonna do the latter. I'll show you guys how easy it is.All right. Guys, so getting the bushings and sleeves inside of the shocks is actually pretty straightforward. You just gotta have a little bit of lubricant. Honestly, I'm just being a little nasty here. I'm using some spent motor oil. But what you're gonna do, you're gonna line up the actual bushing with the eye in the shock itself, and go ahead and set it up in your vise and just gently press that in there until it slips in all the way. Then once you have your bushing in there, go ahead and double-check that it's actually pressed in all the way. You can grab your metal sleeve. Sometimes they'll slide right in. Other times you might have to use a little bit of force with the vise. Go ahead and press that sleeve in all the way as well. And that's all there is to it, and we'll do the same thing for the other side.All right. Now that you have the sleeves and the bushings in the shocks, you can go ahead and reinstall them using the original bolts and nuts. Now, you want the body of the shock facing down since these are nitro shocks. Now, I only tighten that a little bit because I don't wanna crush that bushing and sleeve too much. I wanna have a little bit of play in the shock until I get the hardware in the bottom as well.All right. Now, for the bottom hardware, depending on how low the axle's hanging off your leaf pack, you might have to compress the body of the shock in order to line up the hole so you can get the bolt through. All right. Once you got that hardware in there, you can tighten everything down, again 21-millimeter wrench and socket.All right. Our rear end is now back together, but we have to tackle this bracket for our hard brake lines. You can see here I gently extended the brake lines up and out away from the differential, and that's to make room for this little bracket right here. This is a little extension. It helps accommodate for the new length back here with our shocks and our lift blocks. You're gonna install this bracket to the diff using that factory bolt, and you'll tighten him down using a 10-millimeter socket. You wanna angle him in about a 45-degree angle.All right. Now we're gonna secure this original bracket to our new bracket that we just threw on there. You're gonna have to grab this little SAE bolt in the kit. This is a half-inch bolt with a flat washer. There's also another flat washer and the appropriate nut for the other side. And it goes without saying, you'll need a half-inch wrench and a half-inch socket to tighten this stuff down.All right. Guys, the last piece of this big old puzzle is getting that bolt back into this bracket for the parking brakes. Before you do that, you wanna remove the driver's side cable from the bottom of the bracket. Make sure you get the passenger side back in there because it's gonna have a bunch of slack on it. Now, getting the bolt to line up can be a little bit of a pain. So you might just have to grab the bottom of the bracket, put a little pressure on it, get it hand-threaded enough so it's not cross-threading. Then drive it home with your 13-millimeter socket. Okay. So we went ahead, we reinstalled everything in the back. We got our truck down on the ground. Now our suspension is under load. So now we can finally torque these lower control arm bolts to spec. All right. Guys, so once you got that bracket tightened down in the back, that's gonna wrap up this entire install.Now, one thing before I go, guys, the first place you should go once you're done having fun with this thing for a minute is your local shop so you can get an alignment done. Because of the fact that we changed up our steering link and our tie rod ends, your toe and camber and all that stuff are probably gonna be a little bit off. The ride might feel a little weird. So again, just take your time, drive nice and smooth, get to the shop, get that taken care of, then you can have some real fun and go offroad. Other than that, that wraps up this review of Zone Offroad's 4.5-inch Suspension Lift with shocks fitting your 2014 or newer Silverado or Sierra 1500 equipped with 4-wheel drive. I'm Travis. Thanks for watching. Keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
December 23, 2019
2015 Abrams tank Silverado
It was a challenge to install without a lift. Ive never done anything mod wise to a vehicle and I did this entire truck myself. YouTube YouTube youtubeHelpful (0)
January 17, 2019
Great lift with an aggressive look!
Lift is great! Very aggressive look and did not notice much difference from stock ride to lifted ride, haven't taken it off road yet. I have 18 inch wheels with -24 offset wrapped in 305/70R/18 tires and there is a slight rub at full lock. Would definitely recommend this brand, quality and price is great.Helpful (4)
I got a Sierra 1500 All Terrain 2014, witch control arms I got?
Does this kit come with the front skid plate cover?
This will include 2 shocks, 2 lift blocks, and all installation hardware.
Will this fit 2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 with E assist?
The Zone Offroad 4.5 in. Suspension Lift Kit is compatible with a 2017 4x4 E-Assist Silverado 1500
will this kit work on my 2018 Silverado 4x4 with cast steel control arms? and will I need spacers for the rear to track correctly . and do you have a install instruction to see Thanks Gabe
The item number for the kit to be used with cast steel control arms is S102491-B, you will choose that option when adding to your cart. Install instructions: http://4x4media.info/instructions/zon/C2456_C2656.pdf
(approx) a Day
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box