(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys, it's Sara with americantrucks.com. And today we have a review and install of the S&B Cold Air Intake with Oiled Cleanable Cotton Filter, fitting your '17 to '19 6.7 liter Powerstroke F250 or F350 SuperDuty models. This is perfect for the SuperDuty owner who wants to improve the flow of their intake system and wants a reusable filter option to replace the restrictive factory paper filter. This cold air intake features a smoother flowing intake tube, as well as an optional sealed or open airbox design and an eight-layer cotton oiled cleanable red air filter. It does feature a direct bolt-up install and reuses your factory mass airflow sensor so no tune is required for install, although to get the most out of any intake a tune is recommended. Another great thing about this intake is that it's CARB compliant meaning it's legal in all 50 states and comes with a CARB EO number. It also relocates your factory airbox in front of your battery for a better-flowing intake outflowing that factory by over 50%. So, as far as price goes this intake comes in at around $400 which is middle of the road price-wise when compared to other options. And for your money, you are getting a full intake system with an airbox and a reusable air filter that does not require a tune and comes from a company known for quality intakes.And as far as the install goes I'm giving this one a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does require relocating your battery but it does feature a bolt-up install with no modification required and can be done within two hours. So, with that said, let's check out that install. For this install, we used an impact gun but a regular hand ratchet will work just fine. You'll also need a pop clip removal tool, 13-millimeter and 10-millimeter wrenches, an extension, a small and large flathead screwdriver, a Phillips head screwdriver, a pair of cutters, a heat gun, 13-millimeter, 10-millimeter, 8-millimeter and 7-millimeter sockets as well as a T20 Torx socket. All right, so the first step in our uninstall we're gonna disconnect both batteries and then we'll actually remove the battery that's on the passenger side. Grab your 10-millimeter socket, and let's get it disconnected. Grab that 10-millimeter socket and loosen up the nut that's on the side of your negative terminal. Once that is loose, go ahead and wiggle it free. Go ahead and expose the positive terminal. We're gonna do the same thing over here loosening up that 10-millimeter nut. Then once it's loosened up all the way, go ahead and wiggle that positive terminal and remove it.Grab that 10-millimeter socket and start to remove the battery hold down. There should be a knot on either side. Go ahead and get it removed. Repeat that with the other nut and remove the bracket. And then once the battery is disconnected go ahead and pull it up to remove it. Also, grab the liner around the battery if it did not come out with it. Next up we're gonna disconnect the MAF sensor. Underneath it is a red tab. This might be hard to see because it is on the bottom. With your finger or you can use a small flathead, pull back on the red tab, and then press to disconnect. Next up we're gonna disconnect both of the hose clamps on this intake. You can grab a flathead screwdriver or a 7-millimeter socket and get it disconnected. Repeat that for the hose clamp on the other end of your intake. And also disconnect this coolant line from the top of the intake tube. Now that both sides are disconnected, go ahead and disconnect the tube from the truck. Now, there are two 8-millimeter bolts between the intake box and the fender. They may be a little bit hard to see but grab an 8-millimeter socket and you may want an extension and get these removed.Now, following the MAF connector that we disconnected earlier, we're gonna follow it all the way down the wiring harness to the back of the box. Now, we need to use a pop clip removal tool to disconnect a pop clip on the back of the box. Now that everything is disconnected from the box itself, you can grab it, and wiggle it to unseat all of the grommets. There are several at the front and the back and then remove it. Now we're gonna remove this air inlet, it's right behind the rad support cover in between the airbox and the cover itself. Grab a pop clip removal tool and remove the pop clip that holds it on the front. Now there are tabs on either side. So, what you're gonna do is lift up on the tab, pop it and pull it straight out. Now, we do have to remove all of the pop clips that hold the wiring harnesses on the battery tray. They're on the inside of the battery tray, there's a few on top and also a few on the sides. Don't miss those either. Go ahead and pull up with a pop clip removal tool or you can use a flathead screwdriver and disconnect all of these.Next up, we're gonna remove the four 13-millimeter bolts holding on the battery tray. We're gonna start with the two on the bottom. Grab a 13-millimeter socket and get these out. Repeat that on the two on the side. Now that all of your bolts and pop clips are removed from the battery tray, go ahead and remove it off the vehicle. Next up we're gonna remove the bracket that holds on the air intake box. Grab your 10-millimeter socket and remove these two bolts. All right, now that we have our factory intake uninstalled from our truck, we can check it out side by side with our S&B intake here. Now, the biggest difference may be hard to see on the table. The factory intake location is behind the battery box and the flow of air goes underneath it into your intake. This new intake sits in front of the battery box and they've actually included a new tray for install. That way, the airflow goes directly into the box without having to travel underneath. They've also included a more smooth intake tube for less restriction and this large cleanable air filter that will save you some money over having to replace that factory air filter when it gets clogged and dirty. They've also included this inspection window so you can see through to the filter itself to know when it's time to pull it out and clean it. So with that said, let's go ahead and finish up our install.So, next up we will install this bracket. Now, this goes right over this area right here on your frame. Now, before we can do that, you'll notice that there are two lines on the bottom here that actually correspond to these two holes, we need to remove them and reinstall them. Now, with a flathead or a pop clip removal tool, carefully remove the line for your AC. It should be a plastic pop clip. And just set that aside for now. We will get it reinstalled. And remove the second one right next to it. Now we can install the bracket right over top of the three mounting holes. Thread in your two factory bolts. And keep in mind there is a good amount of room for adjustability here, so you can leave these loose. Now we're gonna install the M8 hardware through that center hole. We're using the bolt, a washer on each side, and then a lock nut. Now, there is a bit of adjustability here so you can leave this loose but we're actually gonna tighten it down now. And if we do need to adjust this, we'll just loosen them up later on. Grab a 13-millimeter socket and tighten these down. And now we have a 13-millimeter socket and wrench, we can tighten down the center one.Now reinstall the two pop clips, the one that hold on the AC line. They will go approximately in the factory locations but just in this new bracket. We have our factory battery box here and we need to transfer over these mounting bolts. Now, to do that, we're gonna flip it over, there are two 8-millimeter bolts on the bottom. Grab an 8-millimeter socket and you may want a small extension and get these removed. Now, to remove this air inlet portion on the bottom of your battery box, there's two tabs here that you can press down on as you lift from the front. Now, it may be easier to just use an edge of a table to let it lay flat. We're gonna push down on the backside while we use a large flathead and just pull up on the front side. Now you can pull it up and remove it. Now we can see this large U-bolt that we need to transfer over to our new battery box. Using a flathead or I'm using a small pry bar here, I'm just gonna pry up and remove it. Now we have the new battery box here. What we're gonna do is install this long U-bolt in the bottom. Now, you want the shorter side towards the curved side of the battery box and the longer one on the straight side. Now, using a zip tie we're going to mount the bolts to the bottom of the new battery box. They're just gonna go in one hole and out the other. Tighten down that zip tie and trim off the excess with a cutting tool.Next up, we're going to disconnect and relocate the main ground wire. Now, some trucks do have two grounds right here, make sure you're using the proper one. Grab an 8-millimeter socket and get this removed. Now what we're gonna do here is remove this wire, flip it around and reattach it facing the opposite way. Now we can install the battery box. Keep in mind this is not going back in the factory location. So go ahead and install it as shown here. Make sure you're not pinching this secondary ground if your truck does in fact have one. And what we're gonna do is line up the two bolt holes through here as well as here and here. Grab the included hardware. These should be the hex bolts. Go ahead and start to thread them in. There are three of the same size and one longer one. The longer one will go in this location. We're starting with these two far ones. Now you're gonna install the other two bolts at the outside edge, and here we are going to install the longer one here. Now, with your 13-millimeter socket, you can tighten these down. Now keep in mind not to pinch this other ground wire if you do have it. And don't forget about the other two far bolts in the bottom. These are also a 13-millimeter.Now, you can slide the battery as well as the blanket around and into the battery box. Now you can replace the factory bracket on top of the battery and replace the factory hardware. Then with your 10-millimeter socket, tighten them down. Now, we have the negative terminal for the battery here, what we need to do is flip around this bolt and this nut so that when it's sitting in this reverse configuration, the nut is on top. If you haven't already loosened this all the way up, go ahead and loosen it now. It is a 10-mil, if you need to use a socket, and go ahead and remove the rest of these blocks but remember how they went. So, what we're gonna do is take this bolt and flip it around the other way. Once you flip the bolt around, go ahead and install the blocks in their proper configuration. If you're not sure you can always look at your other battery. And we are gonna leave this loose for now, and we'll reinstall this when we're done. Next up, on the positive side we need to disconnect both of these cables by removing this 10-millimeter nut. Grab your 10-millimeter socket and go ahead to get this removed.Remove both of these positive wires, now some trucks may only have one, either way, remove all of the wires that are connected to this post. Set this nut aside, we'll reinstall it later. Now we can install these wire extensions on top of here. Now, again, you may have one power accessory wire or you may have two. If you have two you'll just have to repeat this process twice. All we're doing is lining up this extension and installing the two M6 bolts through here with the lock nut on the other side. Then grab your 10-millimeter wrench and 10-millimeter socket to get this tightened down. Now, when you are tightening this down, make sure that they're in a straight configuration and that they're not off to the side. They're just a straight extension of your main cable wire. Once you have that wire attached, go ahead and slide the heat shrink over top. Make sure it's completely covering all metal that could be exposed. Then grab a heat gun and shrink it down. And once you've heat shrunk around what you just bolted down, grab the secondary heat shrink and this should go the length of the wire. Make sure everything is covered, there's no metal exposed aside from this very end, which is what we will attach to the positive terminal on the battery.And once it's lined up, go ahead and shrink it down. Repeat that one for the secondary wire if your truck has it. And just keep in mind if you want these two to meet up properly, if you do have two wires, that you should stack them like this. So, if you installed one in this configuration, install the other one in the opposite way. Still, make sure it lines up with the eyelet on the factory wire and that is just a straight extension from there. Now you can reinstall the positive cables or cable depending on how many you have, and then go ahead and tighten them down. Now, keep in mind, now that the battery is relocated, you may need to loosen this up and rearrange some of the wires so they're sitting nicely. Now that our battery is installed, we can actually remove these two factory bolts so that we can bolt up our airbox. If you didn't tighten them, go ahead and just pull them out by hand now, but if you did tighten them like we did, just go ahead and grab that 13-millimeter socket and pull them out. Make sure you leave that center one in and tight. We will be installing the airbox around it.Now we're back at the table so we can assemble the airbox portion. Go ahead and grab this rubber grommet. What we're gonna do is slide it in place in the larger opening here. It may take a bit of wiggling to get it fully seated. And once it's fully seated, just go ahead around it in a circle and make sure it's all in place. Next up, we're on the side of the intake box, you should see two open holes with threaded holes around the outside. Go ahead and grab your foam, slide it in place. Line up the bracket around the outside and install the three Phillips head screws. Grab your Phillips head screwdriver and tighten it down.Repeat that for the second opening, and tighten them down. Next up, you can install this rubber intake portion. You'll notice it looks similar to the factory one and it does sit in the similar location. So we will be using the factory pop clip there. Right here we're using the included plastic rivets. What you're gonna do is slide it through the top. Slide it through the bottom and press it together.Now you can install two rubber grommets in each of these openings. This is where your intake box will bolt to the truck. Keep in mind nothing's really holding this in for now. So make sure they don't move as you install them but they do sit in there fairly tight. Next up, this one is optional. You can leave this open. Alternatively, if you don't want that open, they have included this rubber plug. We're actually gonna install that now. All you need to do here is just line it up and then pop it in place. And if at any point you wish to remove this and have this section be open, all you do is pop it back out. Now that the intake box is assembled, go ahead and slide it in on the truck. Again, just be careful that those two rubber grommets are in place. And we're also lining up the two bolt holes on the inside of the intake. Now, we're gonna reinstall those two bolts that we just removed earlier. Go ahead and thread them in but we're gonna do it loosely until we have all four bolts installed.Now you can install the other two. Again we're using factory bolts here, the ones that you pulled out. Go ahead and thread them through. Now these will be going through those two grommets you installed earlier. Now with your 13-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten it down and just be careful not to over-tighten because we are using an impact here. Now, grab that 13-millimeter socket and tighten down the 2 bolts at the bottom as well. Now, before we can finish installing the intake, we are going to install the positive wires and make sure that they're all zip-tied and out of the way. Keep in mind you will need this area to be clear to install the intake tube. So you may need to bend this portion of the air conditioning slightly out of the way so the tube can come in here. Now we can install the positive terminal on the battery and then we can make sure to route these two lines and zip tie them all down. Now, the directions do tell you to flip around this nut to the opposite side here so that these can come as far towards the terminal as possible. However, if you'll notice there is a post there that prevents them from coming any further. So I'm gonna leave this where it is. If you would like to swap it, you do the same thing as the negative terminal and take this, put it on the other side.Now that it's over top of the positive battery terminal, we can go ahead and tighten it down. And make sure the lines are out of the way of anything hot, moving or sharp, and zip tie them down. Now we have to transfer over the MAF sensor to our new intake tube. Grab a T20 Torx socket and remove the 2 factory screws. You can set those aside, we will not be reusing those. Remove the MAF sensor. Now we can install the MAF sensor into the new intake tube. Before we do that, we do need to install this foam grommet and this plastic bracket as well. So, what I'm gonna do here is grab the sensor, make sure it's in the proper configuration, line it up through both of these. Make sure it's seated nice and flush on the bottom of that sensor and then line it up in the tube. They've included two Phillips head screws to install this. Go ahead and thread both of those in and grab that Phillips head screwdriver to tighten them down. Now we're gonna put the rubber coupler on the oval end of the pipe. Make sure it's lined up with this ridge right here and it doesn't go over it or there's not a big gap between the coupler and that.Then what we're going to do is slide these clamps over top and we want to line them up in those ridges they correspond to. Now, you may need to move that coupler around a little bit as you do this. Once it's lined up, you got to make sure it's in the proper location. Repeat that with your other coupler. Now, you may have to squeeze it slightly to oval it to get it to go over top. Once they're in place we can finish up our install. Now we can install this inlet pipe into the intake box. Make sure you line up that box end first. And make sure it sits all the way to this ridge here. You may need to twist it to get it to sit perfectly. You will wanna go underneath these coolant lines as you twist and line up the other end. Slide the coupler over top of the opening on your engine, make sure it's lined up with the pipe. Now you can tighten down those clamps with an 8-millimeter socket or a flathead screwdriver will work just fine. Make sure the clamp is still lined up properly. You may have to readjust it as you tighten it down. Get your second clamp lined up properly. Then grab that 8-millimeter socket and tighten it down. Make sure the tube is lined up nicely and nothing shifts as you're tightening. Don't forget to reinstall that factory pop clip right in the front of the intake.Now we can install the air filter. We're gonna install it straight down to the bottom of the box. And then we'll sort of rocket backwards to line it up over top of the tube and then spin it in place. Grab that 8-millimeter socket or a flathead screwdriver, and go ahead and tighten this down. Now we can grab the weather stripping and press it into the groove around the outside of this inspection window. And if there's any excess go ahead and trim it off. Now you can grab that plexiglass and lay it over top. You do need to peel the protective coating off the front and back before you do this. And then grab the hardware. We have one of the plastic washers with the Phillips head hardware. Go ahead and line it up and just get it started. You may need a Phillips to start it since it is recessed. Get all of them started before you tighten them down to ensure it's properly lined up. Once they're all in place, go ahead and tighten them down and just try to tighten them down as evenly as possible to ensure a good seal all the way around the inspection window.Now we have our factory MAF connector here and we need to include this extension harness to plug it into the sensor. Go ahead and plug that harness extension in. Press that red tab down to lock it in place. And it's actually gonna take this route approximately right along the negative wire. And we'll zip tie this down as soon as we're done installing this. Line it up with your factory MAF sensor, click it in place and press the red tab down. Now we can reconnect the negative terminal. Now with it back in place, grab a 10-millimeter socket and tighten it down. All right, so now that both of your batteries are reconnected, just take a second look at your wiring. Make sure everything is zip-tied out of the way of anything hot, moving or sharp. And that is gonna do it for the review and install of this intake. And remember for all things SuperDuty, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Cold Air Intake Type||Cold Air Intake|
|Tuning Requirements||No Tune Required|
|Cold Air Intake Tube Material||Plastic|
|Cold Air Intake Filter Type||Oiled|
High-Performance Intake Kit. Add more power to your Super Duty by using the Cold Air Intake with Oiled Cleanable Cotton Filter from S&B. This intake kit improves fuel economy, acceleration, and engine sound with its high-flow intake tube, durable air box, and oiled cotton filter that provide your engine with a powerful air charge. The swapped positions of the battery and intake box moves the system to directly align with the front air inlet. This results in enhanced airflow with 55.97% improvement over the factory intake.
Computer Re-Tuning Not Required. S&B designed this Cold Air Intake to operate using the factory tune without reprogramming your Super Duty’s computer. AmericanTrucks, however, still recommends a custom tune to reprogram your ECU to experience the best possible performance from this upgrade.
Oiled Air Filter. The oiled, cleanable air filter included in this Cold Air Intake Kit allows your engine to breathe freely without sucking the unwanted dust and debris into your engine. This oiled and multi-layered cotton filter design features the tacky oil that helps capture even the tiniest particles. The massive configuration also facilitates a higher volume of air with an intensified velocity to get into the system for a more efficient, power-generating combustion.
High-Quality Build. S&B guarantees the efficiency and durability of this Cold Air Intake System by using an aerodynamically-designed intake tube. This pipe directs the cooler air into the engine’s throttle body for massive power gains. The fully-enclosed air box effectively blocks the hotter air around the engine. It also features a large, clear lid for convenient filter monitoring. Additionally, the injection-molded MAF sensor plate ensures a quality seal around the MAF sensor with a true OE O-ring seal that prevents air leaks. Each of the component, including the hardware is built for high performance and improved service life.
No-Drill Installation. This Cold Air Intake with Oiled Filter comes with all the necessary hardware, clamps, and seals. It fits into your Super Duty’s factory mounting locations with no drilling required. The installation process requires standard hand tools and light-to-moderate mechanical skills.
Million-Mile Warranty. This Cold Air Intake System carries a Million-Mile Limited Warranty covering factory defects in materials and workmanship. This warranty remains valid if the intake kit has been used under typical driving conditions and on vehicles for which they were designed. Some limitations and exclusions are indicated in the manufacturer’s warranty guide; please check the terms and conditions for full details.
CARB-Compliant. S&B ensures that this Cold Air Intake complies with the emission regulations set for the by the CARB. It is 50-state SMOG legal and holds a certification under E.O. Number D-590-17.
Application. The S&B Cold Air Intake with Oiled Cleanable Cotton Filter fits all 2017-2019 6.7L Powerstroke Ford Super Duty F-250 models.
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CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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