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Roush Fender Flares (15-17 F-150, Excluding Raptor)

Item T536828
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$949.99 (kit)

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      Product Videos

      What's going on, ladies and gentlemen? Travis from americantrucks.com, and today we're checking out arguably the most well-made, the most functional, and one of the most durable and off-road-ready fender flares that you could throw on your 2015 to 2017 F-150. These are Roush's very proudly USA-made fender flares. Guys, these things are awesome. Let's get the elephant out of the room. First things first, yes, these do cost about $1,000, but you are definitely getting what you pay for. A couple of unique selling points that some of the other options on the site simply can't offer.Number one, this is gonna be one of the only options that include side markers for all four corners of the truck, and number two, it's the only one that includes side markers where everything is already pre-wired for you. Roush was nice enough to design a pretty advanced wiring harness that's actually all wired up. You don't have to splice anything. It actually connects to all the factory wiring harnesses on the truck, makes it incredibly straightforward. Guys, if you didn't have that kind of wiring harness installed with the kit, it would probably take you the better part of a weekend to get this thing done. So that's a huge savings on its own.The other thing to consider as well, again, I mentioned off-road performance. This thing is actually made out of a really cool material called Duraflex 2000. All the other options that you're gonna see on this site are gonna be made of a simpler ABS or a TPO material. ABS and TPO is not as flexible, it's not as durable, and over the years, those materials may actually fade from ultraviolet light. Duraflex 2000 is specifically made, and this actually includes a warranty as well, to resist fading and cracking and all that stuff. They can even take some light strikes and direct impact when you're on the trails. So these things look good, but they're also gonna do their job.And as far as coverage goes, well, if you guys wanna put new wheels and tires on your truck like we did here, these come out just over 3 inches in width. So if you live in one of those places where they're a kind of a stickler as far as tread poking out from the body, these should also help you out with that, even with a pretty crazy negative offset. And as far as that install goes, guys, Roush was nice enough to really make sure these things fit pretty much perfectly. They've already installed all the trim pieces on each of the flares. Putting the markers on there is very easy as well. They're pretty much just a 3M job. You only have to drill a couple holes here and there, but it's incredibly simple, and you won't see any of those holes when you have the flares installed, so nothing to worry about too much there. I'm actually gonna show you guys how to do that in just a little bit.All things considered, I'm gonna go ahead and say it will probably take you about three hours or so to get these things bolted on. And that's just because we're working with that crazy big wiring harness that we have to get upfront and outback. But again, it's very straightforward. It's technically simple, just a little time-consuming. I'm gonna go ahead and give this thing a modest two out of three wrenches on the old difficulty meter. Definitely something you can do in the driveway at home. So, check them out a little bit more on the site. If you decide to stick with these, which I definitely think they are the best buy in my choice, go ahead and check them out. Come back in a little bit. I'll show you all the tools you need to dig out of the toolbox. I'm gonna walk you through the entire install step by step.All right. Guys, before we get started with our fender flares, you'll need a 6-inch extension with a standard drive ratchet, a couple of basic sockets including a 5.5, a 7, an 8, and a 10-mil socket, and you'll need a Phillips head screwdriver and a flathead screwdriver, as well as a pair of pliers and snips. You'll also need a hand drill with an 11/16 drill bit. I'd definitely recommend having some trim panel removal tools, especially one with prongs, and an impact gun is gonna make the whole job go a little bit easier.All right. Guys, first thing you wanna do is grab a plastic trim panel removal tool, or you could use a flathead screwdriver and a pinch. I prefer to use a plastic tool so I'm not scratching up anything. But we're gonna be removing these three push pins right here. Just kind of press the trim panel removal tool underneath the lip and gently pry on them to remove them. These are gonna be pretty tight in there, so they'll probably pop out. Some of them might break. That's okay. All right. Now we have to remove these two bolts here. These are gonna be the last two pieces that are kind of securing the flare to the truck body. You'll need a 7-mil socket for these.Okay. Now we have to remove some hardware underneath our mudguard here. If you have one equipped, all you need to do is remove these tabs here. This is where the actual flathead screwdriver is gonna come in handy. Just kind of pry them open and push forward on them to unseat them. They have this kind of little teeth on the end there that's kind of gripping onto everything. So they might be a little tight. Once you have all those little metal retaining tabs removed, the mudguard is still gonna be held in on the bottom here. There's another Christmas tree fitting, a plastic fitting. So just grab another trim panel tool or your flathead screwdriver and pop that guy out.All right. Guys, now we're ready to remove the flare. It's still retained with some plastic fittings and some fasteners underneath. This is where you're just gonna have to really take your time, be careful because we're gonna be pulling all of that stuff out of there without any tools. We're just kind of using gentle pressure to unseat everything. Obviously, it goes without saying we're working against our painted surfaces here. So you really wanna take your time. Don't use any bladed metal objects underneath here. You don't wanna scratch the paint up. You can use some plastic trim panel tools. Also, recommend to have something like a microfiber towel you can kind of wedge in between there to help kind of protect the paint. If you do get some really minor scratches on there, don't worry. It's probably inevitable. The new flares are definitely big enough. They'll cover up any small blemishes that you might suffer underneath here. But just take your time. Try to avoid that if possible.Okay. Once you remove the flare, you might have some of these plastic fasteners left inside of here. Just go ahead and grab your trim tool, pry underneath them to remove them. All right. Now that we have our flare removed, we've exposed these two fasteners, these two little 5.5- millimeter bolts. Go ahead and remove those as well. It's a pretty tight fit in here. So, if you did not remove your wheels and tires, you'll probably need a small ratchet for this. Once you remove these bolts, it's probably a good time to stop down on this side. Go ahead and do all the same steps to the other side.All right. Next, we're gonna go ahead and pop our hood. We're gonna start working with our wiring. We wanna disconnect our negative battery terminal because we do have to remove a fuse later from our fuse box. And it's just a safe practice to undo this anytime you're working with live wires. All right. Guys, now we're gonna start working with the headlight here. We have to remove the headlights themselves, but before we do that, we have to remove this nice little trim piece here on the outside. You got one pushpin up top. So grab a trim panel removal tool or your screwdriver. Go ahead and pop the push pin out. Then we're gonna gently pull on the edges of this trim piece in order to unseat it. It's held in place with some plastic fittings kind of like the flares were. And we will be reusing these pushpins. They do break very easily. If you've used these before, they're kind of a pain. So try and save them if you can.All right. Now we have to remove our radiator cover held in with a bunch of push pins. So again, you'll need that trim panel removal. And again, we have to reuse all this stuff so try and save them if at all possible. Okay. Now we have to remove this plastic bracket right here that was used to hold that trim panel piece that we removed earlier. There's one pushpin on here, and there's a couple of bolts as well. You need a 10-millimeter socket to remove all these bolts. Okay. This last one on the end here is actually an 8-mil flange. So you'll need to switch over to an 8-mil socket. Okay. I'm going to try and remove this thing. There's actually another push pin that's kind of hidden underneath here pointing up. So you wanna grab that removal tool and pop that last one out as well. It's hidden behind the bumper here in this little weather stripping.Okay. Now we're ready to finally remove this thing. There is a little retaining clip in here. You can see these two little plastic fingers sticking out. Just grab a pair of pliers and push down on those. Kind of squeeze them together. I'm just gonna squeeze the retainer together. They can actually remove this. It's also gonna be held in back behind here with some retaining clips. That's for the bumper trim piece. You wanna kind of press on those as you're removing this. Now that I have that removed, you can see those little retaining pieces right here. Those are what you kind of have to push in on as you remove that piece to unseat it.All right. Now we're ready to remove our headlight assembly. It's held in place with three bolts. You got two up top here, and you have one kind of tucked in the back here on the radiator support. You'll need a 10-mil socket for the two top ones, and you will also need an extension for that side one. And then all you have to do is kind of gently pull on the headlight to unseat it. There is a bracket behind the headlight pressed into another bracket. You don't need any tools for that though. Once you have the headlight unseated, now you wanna kind of put your hand back here and start undoing all of your wiring, all of your lights. You wanna pull your bulbs out. You just have to kind of turn them counterclockwise in order to unseat them from inside of the housing. There is another headlight piece here that's actually a press on bracket. So you have to squeeze it in order to unseat that as well.All right. Once you got one headlight removed, do the same thing for the other side. Then we're gonna remove our grille. There's some hardware for our grille right next to where we just removed our headlights. We're gonna remove this 8-mil bolt right here. And then we're gonna be removing this kind of flappy environmental cover that we have on the side of our grille. We have some push pins in there. You can see a lot of them have kind of been removed probably from prior work, but make sure you remove all those push pins. Then we're gonna tackle the bolts on top of the grille.All right. Once you have all the hardware removed from both sides for the headlights and the grille, at this point, normally you would be able to pull the grille off completely. We actually have some raptor style lights installed in here with an auxiliary harness that we can't actually disconnect. So our grille is gonna stay in place. I'll show you guys how to route all the wiring harness for our fender flares and our markers through here. It's gonna be a lot easier if you can remove your grille, but just so you know, that's why ours is still in place. Now we have everything set upfront. Now we're gonna jump out back and remove our rear flares, and then we can get tackling that wiring harness for the side marker lights.All right. Now we're gonna start tackling our rear stuff here. If you do have mudguards equipped, probably best to tackle those first. We have some retaining clips as well as a pushpin. We also have two screws holding it in place. Let's tackle that pushpin first with our removal tool. This one is kind of flimsy in particular. So if you can't get this one removed completely, don't worry about it too much. You can pull the guard off even with this kind of partially seated. Once you have that removed, go ahead and tackle these clips as well. All right. To tackle this top screw here, you'll need a 7-mil socket for him. Okay. Now the last screw holding our mudguard on is kind of tucked up underneath here. So you'll probably want a nice long extension to get him. He's also a 7-mil.All right. Now we can finally tackle those pushpins in order to remove our rear flare. Now once you remove this last pushpin here, the hardware holding the rear flares on is pretty much the exact same as the front. So you just wanna take your time applying gentle pressure as you peel it away from the truck body. Now, when you get to the end here, there's also gonna be a small screw retaining it that you'll have to remove. All right. Now to remove him, you'll need a 10-mil socket. All right. Now, these are some of the fasteners that I talked about earlier when removing our flares. A lot of times these like to get left behind. So you just wanna pry those off with your trim tool. These are kind of springy. They kind of like to fly off like little plastic missiles. So just take your time, make sure nobody is in the line of fire here.Okay. Now we're gonna start installing the wiring harness for our flares. The first thing we need to do is secure the relay inside of our fender area. We're gonna be removing this 10-millimeter bolt to do so. All right. Go ahead and grab the relay itself. You want it oriented kind of facing down. I just wanna get it hand-threaded first then we'll drive that back home with our 10-mil socket. All right. Now, once you have the relay seated, now you're gonna begin the process of managing all this wiring harness. So we have this one lead here. This is gonna be for the passenger's side flare marker. He can kind of stay down here for now, but we also have to route all this cabling up to our fuse box and around our battery box. So, you see we have this little fuse here. We also have all these leads. Just go ahead and push them up behind the reservoir for your windshield fluid and kind of come up underneath the support right here.All right. Once you have that relay seated and that bolt is back in place, now you wanna begin routing all of the wiring harness up to the fuse box and around the battery terminal. We have to get these leads up there, and you also have to get this little fuse box through there as well. Just go ahead and push it up through underneath the support here on the frame and behind the reservoir for your windshield fluid. It's gonna be a little bit of a squeeze here. You wanna make sure you're not getting tangled up on the wiring harness for your headlights as you're doing this. With all the excess wiring harness then, you can just kind of route it up along the radiator support. If your grille is still in place, just kind of rest it on top of the grille for now.All right. Guys, so we have this routed here along our battery box up to our fuse box here. We'll have to get some of the stuff out of the fuse box, but first, we're gonna connect our ground wire. And we actually have a ground wire bolt right here just behind this strut. You'll need an 8-millimeter socket to remove that bolt. Once you remove that bolt, just go ahead and put the bolt through the lead on the ground wire and reinstall it. Just kind of get it hand-threaded first so it doesn't cross-thread.Okay. Next, we're gonna pop the covers off of our fuse box here. Just go ahead and pull on that little tab to release it. Take the lid out of there completely, and you also wanna do the same thing for the battery posts in the second compartment right here. Just pull up on that little tab. This is kind of secured to the wiring harness. So you just wanna push it out of the way. Now, we have our fuses here. We're gonna be pulling this 7.5 amp fuse, and we're actually gonna be installing it onto that little terminal for our wiring harness. I'll just go ahead and pull this fuse out with a needle nose plier. And go ahead and grab the lead with that first 7.5 amp fuse on there, and you're just gonna be putting the second fuse directly in here like so.All right. And you wanna install that 7.5 amp fuse that we just pulled out of the box into this lead right here, and we're gonna be pushing this lead into that same position for that 7.5 amp fuse. You just wanna kind of route this cable in between these other fuses here, and we wanna cut a small notch in the lid of the fuse box so that we can secure it with the wire coming into it. All right. You can see, I'm just kind of cutting a notch out of here with a pair of snips. It's pretty soft plastic, so you can just do this by hand. Once you have that little notch cut out, go ahead and reinstall the cover again with that little wire for the fuses coming out of the side.Now we have to connect our positive terminal here to this post underneath this little compartment of our fuse box. Just go ahead and pull that nut off of that post with that 10-mil socket that we have. Just gently pull that nut out, make sure you don't lose it, and go ahead and get your lead. Kind of route him underneath the wires here. Get the lead on there and go ahead and get that nut hand-threaded. These threads can be a little sticky. You don't wanna make sure you cross-thread anything on here, and then go ahead and drive him home. Once you have him drove home, go ahead and put the cover back on and close it down. We kind of route that wire on the side there in between the fuse box cover and the battery box as well.Okay. We're pretty much set up on the driver's side for our front flare. We have all of our connections underneath the hood there. You wanna make sure you have enough slack on this lead. This is gonna be the lead for the passenger side flare marker light. And now we're gonna actually route all of this stuff underneath our grille here in front of our radiator. If you do have some push pins on these little covers on the side, you can pop those free. And I'm just gonna gently tuck all this wiring underneath the grille so it rests in front of our radiator here. This kit does have these auxiliary leads here. This is for auxiliary lighting on the grille. We won't be using that since we already have an auxiliary lighting kit on our grille for those raptor-style lights. You wanna route all the stuff underneath the fasteners as well as the hood release latch. Just tuck these leads down underneath as well.Okay. So once you have your wiring harness routed underneath the grille in front of the radiator, at the other side here, you should have this connection. This is gonna end up connecting to the rest of the wiring harness that's gonna go to the rear flares. We're gonna route him up above the inner fender liner, and I'm gonna zip tie him to the frame rail, generally speaking, around where the top of the strut mounts. And that's gonna work our way outback. I'll show you that a little bit later. I'll actually put the truck up in the air so I can show you how we route this. And then you should also have this connection right here. This is gonna be the leads that go to the side marker for this flare. All the other leads and the rest of the wiring harness should be tucked in front of the grille and in front of the radiator.Now we're gonna go ahead, and I'm gonna grab the side markers for the flares. I'm gonna show you how to get those installed, so we can start throwing the flares in place. Okay. Now we're ready to finally install the side markers into these little plastic brackets, and we're gonna set those onto our flares. So they do provide some 3M provided in the kit. You just gotta kind of unroll it like so. You want maybe about an inch or and a half. Just cut those off. You wanna set it up like I have here on the table. You can go ahead and do the same thing for the bottom.All right. Now once you have the 3M applied, you're gonna grab your marker. We're gonna be using our orange markers for the front, and the rear markers are gonna be red for our brakes. Go ahead and push the harness through the little hole here. It's kind of a tight squeeze. And then the light itself is gonna rest inside of the bracket, and then we're gonna apply the bracket to the hole inside the flare, and the light will pop through and it'll be secured. Okay. Once you got the 3M applied, go ahead and peel the backing off, and you're just gonna press this into place. It's roughly shaped for the inside of the flare, so you'll know how to orient it. You just wanna press the light down, make sure it's seated all the way, and then press on the back of the little plastic retainer as well to make sure the 3M adheres completely. And once you got one set done, you'll do the same thing for the other three flares. Again, amber lights up front and red lights out back. The large brackets are for the front and the small ones are for the rear as well.All right. Guys, everything is starting to come together. Now we're gonna start drilling the holes in our trim pieces here. This is gonna allow us to route our wiring harness through to our flares from the harness on the truck. So you have this template provided in the instructions. You wanna cut him out, and you're just gonna rest him on this curved edge of the trim piece here. A nice little tip here. If you want to make it a lot easier on yourself, actually just punch that hole out with a small screwdriver. And I'm actually gonna mark this with a Sharpie, or any marker will do rather, and I'm actually gonna drill a pilot hole first. We need to draw an 11/16 hole through this. Just go ahead and mark him. Remove your template.Go ahead and drill that first hole.Okay. Now I have my pilot hole drilled. I'm gonna step it up to an 11/16 here. You can use a regular drill bit. A step bit will also do just fine. Go ahead and clean him out. We're gonna do the same thing for the other side as well. You do have to flip the template upside down here. So just keep that in mind. This is double-sided, by the way. So the other template that we need is imprinted on the other side if you were curious what that is. Okay. We got the holes drilled in these trim pieces, but we also need to drill a hole inside the supporting plastic bracket underneath because this is gonna rest on top. And we need to get the wiring harness to come through here. So go ahead and grab this little plastic bracket. Also, grab one of those 10-mil bolts that you used to secure it. We're gonna loosely re-install this in the front of the fender here. Then we'll place this on top of temporarily. We'll mark our hole on here that we need to drill. Then we can pull our trim piece back off and make our final hole.All right. So when you reinstall this plastic piece here, you wanna make sure that these little tabs are lined up with the holes inside of our truck body here. Just press it in place. And to help make sure that everything is lined up, go ahead and install one of those 10-mil bolts and tighten it down. All you need to do is reinstall the trim piece here. Make sure these little tabs are locking into the bracket like so. Okay. So our trim piece's back in place. Now we can see where our wiring harness is gonna come through here on this little plastic bracket here. Depending on where your hole wound up, you know, with minor differences in the template and where you place it, etc., you might end up in kind of a little void here, but you have this little plastic piece behind the trim piece itself. So let's go ahead and mark that real quick, and then I'll show you how we're gonna drill this out here.Once you have a rough spot marked, you can just peel this back off. Okay. So this is where our mark ended up here. We actually have a nice little void behind this part of the plastic here. So I'm actually just gonna drill my hole right here, and it'll also kind of open up this lip right here. Then we can route our cable through there, and that's what's gonna plug into our flare. Okay. So we have that hole drilled in the support bracket. You wanna do the same exact thing to the other side. Then you can actually remove this piece and the plastic trim piece, and then we can throw our headlights back in place. And we should just be about wrapped up with the front end before we can probably throw the flares in place. I almost forgot to mention, guys, before we throw those headlights back in place, we wanna make sure our grille is secured. Remember we have one 8-mil screw on the side and then four 10-mil bolts up top.Okay. Now, before we throw the headlight in place, you wanna make sure the factory harness for the headlight itself is resting above our new wiring harness for our markers, and you wanna make sure that the leads for the passenger side marker come out behind the fender. And then go ahead and get all of your bulbs and sockets back in place before you press the light in. Great. Once you have all your connections in, just go ahead and line up the headlight. Remember you do have brackets on the back up here that actually press into the fittings on the fender there. You wanna line all those up as well. Okay. Now we're gonna get those three bolts back in place in order to secure the headlight. Remember you got this one bolt kind of hidden back here on the side of the grille. You'll need an extension for it.Okay. A good indicator that your headlight is properly seated. Obviously, it's flushed with the fender here. You also have this little alignment pin. You want that to rest nicely inside of this little bracket right here. Now, we're gonna throw the support bracket in place for the trim piece that goes underneath the headlight. Obviously, you wanna make sure you route the wiring harness for the marker light through the hole that we drilled earlier. You wanna just kind of press it in place. Make sure that little tab that we squeezed earlier with those pliers is also pressed in all the way, and we're gonna be securing this thing with the six bolts that we removed earlier. Let's go ahead and get all of them hand-threaded first, and then we'll drive them all home.Most of these bolts use speed clips, and a lot of the speed clips are installed on some hardware back here that kind of moves around a little bit. So if you find trouble getting this stuff to line up, you can kind of press on the fender liner inside, and if the studs aren't long enough, you can kind of tightened down some of these other bolts. That will kind of pull everything together so you can get the threads to bite. Usually, it's this one inside this little pocket here that gives you a little bit of trouble. We also have the 8-millimeter screw here on the end that goes into this plastic. And lastly, there is a plastic little Christmas tree push pin that we pulled out earlier. Just go ahead and press them in place as well. Sometimes these can get a little mangled when you remove them. So if you can't get this one seated, that's okay. All right. Now we're gonna go ahead and tighten everything down.All right. Guys, now we're finally ready to start installing our flares. Before we do that, we have to install this little adapter though. This adapter is gonna secure inside of the fender well using some of the hardware that's already installed. You'll need a 5.5-millimeter socket. We're gonna be removing three screws. We're gonna use those screws in order to seat this thing. Okay. Now we have to install some speed clips on these holes right here. The speed clips are what we're gonna use to secure the flare to this adapter. You want the raised end of the speed clip to be on the inside of this. You wanna just press them on. They're kind of tight. You might need a little bit of help with a trim tool or something. Go ahead and line up the holes and just keep working your way down. There's gonna be three in total.All right. Once you have these three speed clips in place and they're all lined up, go ahead and grab those screws that we just removed. We're gonna throw this thing back in place. All right. Now, the easiest way to go about this is to line up the center one first and just kind of get him hand-threaded. Then we can kind of let the piece hang down like so. Then you can tackle the other ends, getting all three in place before we drive them back home. You do have to apply some tension to this piece. It's not perfectly sized up for this, so you do have to kind of flex it and bend it a little bit to get it seated, but that's good. We want that because we want some tension on here so it's nice and solid. Just go ahead and tighten all these back down. Okay. So now we can finally throw our flare in place. While I can still have this visible here, just so you guys know, the flare is gonna secure to these two points on the support bracket. Before we do that though, obviously we have to connect our marker. So we have these two leads. You wanna pull the sleeve back a bit. You see yellow goes to yellow and white goes to white. Just kind of press these together. Make sure they're seated all the way.All right. Once you have those connections seated, you can go ahead and press the flare in place and get everything lined up. We're gonna put in those factories screws that we removed in the beginning first, and then we'll put the screws provided in the kit in place using those speed clips that we also just installed. We're just gonna get all this hardware on the side hand-tightened. We're not gonna drive it home all the way. We wanna have a little bit of play in the flare itself because we kind of have to push in a little bit, move it around a tiny bit just to get the other holes lined up with those speed clips. Just get these turned a couple times with your fingers. Do the same thing on the rear as well where we removed the mudguard earlier. This is all gonna be 5.5-millimeter hardware that we're gonna be tightening down.Okay. Now we're gonna start getting these screws provided in the kit into the speed clips in that little adapter. You do have to kind of push on the flare a little bit. You also wanna kind of eyeball it so that the holes are lining up. Once you got that clearance there, just go ahead and try and push him in a little bit and get him hand-threaded as much as possible. You will need a Phillips head screwdriver to tighten these down once you do get them seated. All right. Once you have one of those screws in place, go ahead and do the same thing for the other three. All right. We got those screws from the kit installed. Now we can go ahead and tighten down all our other hardware.All right. Guys, the front end is pretty much buttoned up now. Now would be a good time to put the keys in the ignition, play around with the lights a little bit, make sure the running lights are working on both your side markers. Once you've got the go-ahead that those are good, we could throw our red cover back on and go ahead and get those pushpins underneath here. Once we have this seated, I'll show you guys what to do with that wiring harness underneath. Okay. So now we're gonna route our wiring harness for our rear markers along the frame rail here on the driver's side. You have to plug it into that connection that we previously routed behind the fender liner in here. So just line up the connections to make sure they're pressed together all the way. And they do provide a bunch of zip ties in the kit. Easiest way to do this is just to zip tie to existing wiring harnesses up here as well.Okay. Now you have to route this thing along the frame rail. You can go on the inside or the outside. I like to go on the outside. It's a little less interference. And I'm gonna route it behind the crash bar here, tuck it up behind the fender liner, and I'm just gonna secure it along the wiring harness. It also runs along the frame rail here on the outside. I'm just gonna continue following this wiring harness here that wraps around the frame. It's gonna be a good point for me to zip tie this as we go along.Now, the way I'm routing this, I wanna end up at the cross member that's above the axle and behind the gas tank. That's gonna give me the most mounting areas for this, and it's gonna be a nice spot for me to tuck everything up. It also keeps it away from any moving components, and it keeps it relatively far away from the exhaust as well because that way, we're not melting anything. All right. Now when you actually go to throw the flare in place, there's a couple of ways you can go about this. We're actually pretty lucky today because we have some pre-drilled holes on the lip of our quarter panel here, and they line up perfectly with the holes that are already drilled in our flare. If that's not gonna be the case for you, what you're gonna need are these clips provided in the kit. Basically, what you're gonna do is you're gonna throw the flare up in place, you're gonna use the holes that are drilled in the flare, and you're just gonna mark along this lip where those holes line up.Once you've done that, you can remove the flare, and you're gonna grab these little tabs right here, these little felt tabs. They have 3M on the back of them. You're gonna press them on to that point where you mark that hole. Once you've done that, grab this long clip and you're also gonna slide that in place. And that's what's gonna secure your fender. Now, the holes that are pre-drilled in here, they're a little bit of a better method of securing it because we're actually going directly into the metal of the truck body. If that's gonna be the case, you can actually grab some smaller speed clips. Unfortunately, these are not provided in the kit. You do have to pick these up, but they're only a couple of bucks at the local hardware store. And they're just a shorter version. They're gonna line up with the pre-drilled holes on this lip right here. Then you can just grab some standard screws, and you can actually drill it in place. No cutting, no drilling required on the truck itself.One last thing before we get started, Roush also provides a template for you to drill a hole inside the body right here. Guys, I'm not a fan of doing that. If you ever wanna get rid of these, you ever wanna sell your truck or something like that, best-case scenario, you don't want permanently drilled holes in the truck itself. So we're gonna avoid that today. If you want to, you can. It's technically optional, though. So, we're gonna use the shorter speed clips. Let's go ahead and get them in the holes. Then we can throw the flare on. Okay. Our clips are in place. Now we're gonna go ahead and thread our connectors for our marker light through here. And it's the same process as upfront, red to red, and white to white.Okay. Now that everything is lined up, we're gonna go ahead and get our screws into our speed clips here, and the easiest way to go about this, again, is just to get one hand threaded so the flare kind of stays in place. All right. Now we're gonna go ahead and drive home all our hardware. All right. So once you've got the rear fenders bolted down, go ahead and do a function check one more time. Make sure the side markers outback are working as well. And that should wrap up this very easy install. That'll also wrap up my review of Roush's Fender Flares, fitting your 2015 to 2017 F-150. Be sure to check them out more on the site, and for all things F-150, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Adds up to 2.75" of Tire Coverage
      • Utilizes 100% UV Protected Dura-Flex 2000
      • OEM Matte Black Finish
      • Compatible with Aftermarket Bumpers
      • Made The USA
      • Sold as a Set of 4
      • Easy Install Using OE Attachment Points
      • Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Fit All 2015-2017 F-150s, Excluding Raptor

      Description

      Enhance Your F-150. Roush Fender Flares offers a unique styling and increases body protection when using larger wheels and tires and off-road suspension. They will give your Jeep a severe off-road look while making room for adding other off-road upgrades and accessories. Segment unique LED lighting is included which provide a serious tactical look to the flare while at the same time keeping your truck compliant with vehicle safety regulations.

      Quality Construction. Roush Fender Flares are constructed using Dura-Flex 2000 that is 100% UV protected to last the lifetime of your vehicle without any chalking. Each flare has an easily paintable OEM matte black finish to match the rest of your truck’s exterior style. Roush designed this assembly to add up to 2-3/4” of tire coverage from the wheel well sheet metal.

      Easy Installation. This Roush Fender Flares is custom manufactured to mount into place using your OE attachment points efficiently. Minor drilling may be required for LED wire routing. Roush makes sure to include all of the necessary mounting hardware you’ll need to install everything into place.

      Limited Lifetime Warranty. Roush warrants that these fender flares are free of defects in material or workmanship from the date of purchase. In the event of a defective product, they offer a limited lifetime warranty period against defects in the manufacture of the part unless stated otherwise.

      Application. These Roush Fender Flares are designed to fit all 2015-2017 Ford F-150s, excluding Raptor.

      NOTE. Not compatible with models installed with Technology Package 68T including lane-keeping sensors on the front fender, Extended Coverage Flare.

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      Fitment:

      Details

      Roush 422013

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (4) Wheel Flares
      • All Required Hardware
      • LED Light Kit
      5.0

      Customer Reviews (7)

        Brand Image

        Reviews of Roush Exterior products have an average rating of 4.7 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions

          Will It Fit My F-150

          • 2.7L V6 EcoBoost - 15, 16, 17
          • 3.5L V6 - 15, 16, 17
          • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost - 15, 16, 17
          • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost Raptor - 17
          • 5.0L V8 - 15, 16, 17

          Not Compatible on models with the Technology Package 68T or Active Park Assist 66A.

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