(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
$109.99 (kit)FREE Shipping
Hey, guys. Joe from AmericanTrucks, and today I'm gonna be reviewing and installing the MotoFab 2.5-inch Front, 1.5-inch Rear Leveling Kit fitting all '09 and newer four-wheel drive F-150s, excluding the Raptors. This kit is going to be perfect for the F-150 owner who's looking to use their truck for all that it's worth with a budget-friendly spacer lift kit like this one. It's going to allow you to run larger tires, allow for more ground clearance and better overall off-road performance out of your F-150. Now in our experience, a 33 is going to clear in all situations, no trimming required. If you want to run 35s however, in our experience, it will probably rub under extreme circumstances, so be prepared to trim some fender liner. The front strut spacers are manufactured out of CNC-machined billet aluminum, which is then black powder-coated to not only add to the looks but protect these from any corrosion as well. That black powder coating is also going to match the front suspension of your F-150 perfectly. For the rear, we have some new fabricated steel lift blocks. Those are going to be great. They're also black powder-coated. We have some extended U-bolts to compensate for those and new hardware from MotoFab. All in all, in factoring in the geometry of your truck, this is going to lead to a 2.5-inch lift in the front and a 1.5- inch lift in the rear. Now all F-150s in most trucks out there from the factory come with a little bit of what's called rake. Now what that means is the front of the truck does sit a little bit lower than the rear and that puts a little bit of angle to the body of your truck. Now that is there for a reason. That's to balance out any added weight if you have something heavy in the bed or if you're towing something, it would then bring the truck level. But if you're not doing either of those too often, it's more of a looks thing and a kit like this will not only lift your truck but bring it level. Now a lift kit like this is also going to add some ground clearance to your truck. Now, this isn't a full comprehensive suspension lift so don't expect to be doing the toughest trails in the off-road park, but it's definitely something to think about, especially when comparing the price to that suspension lift which is gonna cost you thousands of dollars, and this is going to be around 110 bucks. MotoFab offers this kit with a couple of options as well, but this is going to be the most extreme with 2.5 inches in the front and the 1.5 inches in the rear. If you wanted to dial this back a little bit, you could get just the front spacers, these 2.5 guys right here. You won't get the rears. Save a little bit of money that way as well. Or if you really wanted to just go with a minor lift, they sell a 1.5- inch front spacer lift as well. Like I said earlier, pricing for this kit is going to come in at around 110 bucks, and for your return on investment, that's a really good deal. You're getting a lot of benefits here. The added ground clearance, the allowance for bigger tires, better overall off-road performance. It's also a quality product made right here in the USA, features some good materials and some black powder coating to boot. It also comes with a limited lifetime warranty from MotoFab. Before we move on to the install, I just wanted to make a quick note. This kit is only going to fit the four-wheel drive F-150s and not any of the Raptors. Installation is going to be pretty tough. We're going to be seriously digging into the suspension components on our F-150 today, front and rear. I'm gonna give it a three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Should take you about three hours to get it installed. So without any further ado, let me show you how it's done. Tools required for this install are going to include a cut-off wheel, hammer, dead blow, pry bars, ratchet, a basic socket set ranging from 22 millimeters to 8 millimeters, 8-millimeter Allen key, 1/2-inch drive U-joint, a small extension, safety glasses, PB B'laster, bungee cord, an impact gun, ratcheting wrenches help a ton ranging in sizes from 18 millimeters all the way down to 8 millimeters, open-ended 19-millimeter wrench, open-ended 18-millimeter wrench.So the first step obviously is to get our wheel out of the way. Usually, that's a 21-millimeter socket, but once that's off, it'll allow you access to all the suspension components and we're gonna start right here at our brake lines. You don't want to put those under any stress, so we're gonna disconnect the brackets to allow them to kind of swing freely and make sure they're nice and loose. It's a 10-millimeter socket for the bolts on the brake line brackets and the ABS line is an 8-millimeter socket. Helpful tip, just to keep track of those bolts, I'm gonna hand-thread them back into the knuckle here. Next, we're going to get our sway bar out of the way by removing this nut right here. We're gonna do that for both sides and that will allow the sway bar to completely swing up and out of the way. Now, if this end link does spin on you, you can use an 8-millimeter wrench to hold it still. So with that sway bar nut out, you can do the same thing for the other side. I'm gonna leave that where it is for now, but you should be able to bend that out of the way and that's what we're gonna do later on.Next, we're going to focus on our tie rod, which is secured with this 21-millimeter nut here. We're gonna take that off. This ball joint is probably gonna stick, so we're gonna hit this collar with a hammer to knock it loose. Next, we're gonna focus on these two nuts for our lower strut mount. They're 19 millimeters. Now the trick to these is only to back them out to the end of the threads because this stud is pressed in, so we're going to be hitting this with a hammer to knock it out. And in order to preserve the threads, we're gonna leave that nut on there. Next, we're gonna focus on these pressed in studs and nuts on the bottom of our strut assembly. So what we're gonna do is remove this nut just enough with a 19-millimeter socket down to the bottom of the stud here in order to preserve these threads, because we're going to hit this with a hammer in order to press it out. Now another trick with this is to leave this one tight. That'll leave this nice and sturdy while you're hitting this one out with a hammer. Then we're going to do the same thing for the other side.So at this point, we're going to focus on our upper control arm and upper ball joint. Now the nut that holds that into the knuckle is going to be 21 millimeters. We're going to back that all the way off, hand thread it on a little bit, tap that collar with a hammer to knock the ball joint loose. But before we do, since our lower strut assembly is disconnected, this is all going to fall away. I'm gonna throw a bungee cord around it just to support it and help protect our brake lines. So at this point, we're going to use a pry bar to release that tension on our upper control arm and then remove the nut and separate the two. Now we're gonna use a 15-millimeter to remove the three nuts on top of our strut assembly. And the last one is a little bit tough to get to, so I'm gonna use the 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Now our strut assembly is loose on the truck, but it's under pressure from our bungee cord. So what I'm going to do is pry down on our lower control arm a little bit with a pry bar. That should be just enough to get the bottom unseated and the strut assembly should slide right out. So now I got the bottom out, just gonna drop the pry bar and pull out on our strut assembly. All right, so next we're going to get our strut spacer installed onto our strut assembly. ModoFab gives you some new 17-millimeter nyloc nuts to do that. And just as a little trick, I'm using a 17-millimeter short socket on an extension to get those started. Then I'll come in with a deep socket to tighten them down. And now we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. And when you install these, just a quick note, these do only go on one way, so you might have to rotate it to find the right spot.So now we're gonna grab our new hardware from MotoFab, take these back to the truck, get them installed. Starting with the top of the strut assembly, we're going to use these bolts right here. They require an 8-millimeter Allen key to get tightened down. So now we're just going to put that strut assembly back in place. You want to make sure that this is roughly lined up. At this point, you're gonna want to pry down on your lower control arm in order to get that reseated. Once the strut assembly is in place, you can now grab that 8-millimeter Allen key hardware, run it through the hat on the strut assembly into our spacer block and tighten it down with that 8-millimeter Allen Key. So if you haven't gotten these studs seated already, you can use a pry bar to pull down on your lower control arm. Then run these through, tighten them back down with a 19-millimeter socket. It does help to tap the stud on top, that seats the [inaudible 00:13:08] just enough for you to tighten that down. And same thing for the other one. So the next step is going to be our upper ball joint. Now the trick for this is to use the truck's own weight to help you sort of compress things in the suspension. So what we did is we lowered our truck, jacked up the lower control arm. That compressed our spring a little bit and brought our knuckle in place enough that we can pull down on our upper control arm with a pry bar, get the ball joint to poke through, and then we got the nut started. As you can see, that is not tight, you could still get a finger in between the knuckle and the ball joint. We're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to tighten that all the way down. So now our upper control arm and the knuckle are secure together. We're going to slowly release our jack, then the suspension will be on its own. Next, we're going to reseat our tie rod using the factory 21-millimeter nut.So now all that's left for this side, we're gonna tighten down those brake line brackets and the ABS line brackets using an 8 and 10-millimeter socket. As far as the sway bar goes, we're gonna wrap the other side up and save that for last. That way we could keep it tucked up out of our way. So now we have the other side all buttoned up, all that's left to do is our sway bar. We're gonna push it in place and then tighten it down with the factory 18-millimeter nyloc nuts. All right, so with both sides of the sway bar end links tightened down, we can now grab our stuff for the back and start working back there. So for the rear, we're gonna start by freeing up the axle tube from the suspension. Now in order to get us some more wiggle room, we're gonna free up the bottom shock mount. The nut is an 18-millimeter and the bolt is a 15-millimeter. So now we're gonna loosen up the 21-millimeter nuts on our U-bolts. Now when you do this step, you want to make sure you have your axle tube supported. We have a pole jack underneath. And whenever you're working on your U-bolts, you want to make sure you loosen and especially tighten these in a cross pattern. And then once those nuts are off, you can pull away that bottom plate and remove your two factory U-bolts. And this one is connected to the brake line which pulls right off, and same thing on this side. So now at this point, our axle tube is completely free on this side. We're going to lower our pole jack and remove our factory lift block and replace it with our new MotoFab lift block. And as you're lowering this you do want to take a quick look at these brake lines and make sure there's no tension on them. Ours seem pretty loose at the moment. If they do go under tension, just remove that bracket. That should you give you the extra wiggle room you need. Now we can put our new lift block in place. Before we do, there's a few things I wanted to touch on. These pegs right here are going to go on our axle tube and the holes are going to receive some pegs on our leaf spring. Now, this is very, very slightly tapered as well. That taper is gonna go down toward the front of the vehicle. But once you have those addressed, you can slide this in place and start aligning it with those alignment posts. So I'm gonna bring the pole jacks up a little bit just to contact those posts. Now I have another one under our pinion here just so I could sort of correct some of the angle, and you just want to work with it, get them in place. Sometimes these can be rusty as well, so you might have to clean up some rust to get those pegs seated correctly. But other than that just bring up the pole jacks. So once you have everything adjusted and lined up for the lift block, we're going to put our new U-bolts in place.Now we can install our bottom plate in the new hardware as well. Now those U-bolts do give you plenty of thread. So much in fact that I'm bottoming out my socket. So what I'm going to do is take the cut-off wheel, just take 1/4-inch off the bottom of those just so I can get some more bite out of the socket. So we're gonna leave this whole assembly snug but loose. For now, jump to the other side, install our lift block so that way all of our angles are correct. Then we're gonna run through, tighten down both of our shocks, put our brake line brackets in place, then hit our U-bolts for the final time once our other side lift block is installed. So now with the other side tightened down, we're now gonna reconnect these brake line clips and tighten down our 22-millimeter nuts. Again, make sure you do these in a cross pattern.So with our U-bolts tightened down, all we need to do is put some stuff back in place, most importantly our rear shocks. Again for that hardware, it's going to be a 15-millimeter bolt and an 18-millimeter nut. All right, and that is going to be it for the install. Now a couple things I wanted to mention. It's a great idea to get a good alignment after installing this. It's also a good idea to drive around for a couple hundred miles and then check and make sure everything is still nice and tight. But that is going to do it from my review and install of the MotoFab 2.5-inch Front, 1.5-inch Rear Leveling Kit fitting all '09 and newer four-wheel drive F-150s, excluding Raptors. Thank you for watching. I'm Joe. For more videos like this one and all things F-150, please subscribe to AmericanTrucks.
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Features, Description, Specs & Installation
Hassle-Free Leveling. The MotoFab 2.50 Inch Front and 1.50 Inch Rear Leveling Kit is a great way of leveling your Ford F-150. The kit features a pair of billet aluminum strut spacers and new fabricated rear lift blocks. They provide a true 2.50 inches front and 1.50 inches rear lift to level your truck and eliminate the nose-down rake. The kit is designed for extreme toughness and durability that will last a lifetime. And best of all, the kit doesn’t require drilling, cutting, or even disassembling your struts/coilovers.
High-Quality Strut Spacers and Rear Lift Blocks. MotoFab uses state-of-the-art CNC equipment to precisely manufacture its products out of high-grade materials. The front struts are machined from solid billet aluminum which won’t crack over time, unlike welded strut spacers. For the truck’s rear, the fabricated lift blocks are designed to outlast both cast iron and solid aluminum lift blocks. Furthermore, the spacers and lift blocks are powder-coated black to match your suspension and provide additional protection.
Straightforward Installation. The 2.50 Inch Front and 1.50 Inch Rear Leveling Kit is designed for a hassle-free installation and is a direct fit for your Ford F-150. Installation can be completed within 2-3 hours.
Includes Lifetime Limited Warranty. MotoFab is dedicated to customer satisfaction and provides the 2.50 Inch Front and 1.50 Inch Rear Leveling Kit with a 100% satisfaction guarantee and a lifetime warranty.
Application. The MotoFab 2.50 Inch Front and 1.50 Inch Rear Leveling Kit is designed to fit 2009-2020 Ford F-150 4WDs, excluding Raptor models.
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Fitment: 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020
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(approx) 3 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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