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Borla ATAK Mid-Section Muffler Assembly with X-Pipe (17-20 F-150 Raptor)

Item T532442
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with And today, we're taking a closer look at installing, and of course, listening to the Borla ATAK Mid-Muffler Assembly and X-Pipe Combo, available for the '17 and newer 3.5 Raptor. And we've got our '19 Raptor above me in the shop with the Borla ATAK on it. Now I'm giving the muffler five out of five on our loudness meter. Comparing that to some of the other mufflers in the category, it is a little bit more on the loudest side of the spectrum, but I will say at regular driving speed or just cruising down the road, it's really not that overwhelming, it does get pretty tamed. It's at wide open throttle that it's really at its loudest. The Borla ATAK is known to be one of the loudest muffler assemblies in the category there, so it's no surprise. The ATAK, I will break down in more detail later on giving you all the details of what ATAK means, but just know the Borla ATAK gives you the loudest possible volume without distorting the tone. So it's a really crisp sound as you just heard from that sound clip.Now if you're looking for something that isn't as beefy, there's a bunch of other options out there, but this paired with an X-pipe is opening up that airflow so much, it boosts that volume and tone. Now this whole kit here is made from a high-quality 304-stainless steel, exactly what we'd expect from Borla. It's all mandrel bent, so it doesn't have all the kinks and air restrictions in it and you are replacing again your factory resonator with a brand new X-pipe. The entire kit here is a 2.75 inch diameter, which is gonna be the same size as your factory one, but again much less restrictive.Now this guy does come in right around 1100 bucks, so it's a slightly steeper price tag than some of the other options in the category but for a good reason. Borla does carry one of the more reputable names in the category and they are known to use the highest quality stuff in the category. So that price there is to be expected and it's very worthwhile if you're looking for your exhaust to hold up over the long run. So if you're located on the East Coast like we are, we see a lot of road salt during these winter months, Borla and their 304-stainless is definitely gonna hold up to corrosion and rust resistance a lot better than some of the aluminized or even 409-stainless. So high quality goes a long way.Install, I'm gonna give two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It is gonna take a little bit of time here, two, maybe three hours from start to finish depending on your exhaust experience. You are gonna reuse your factory tailpipes going from the axle back to the tips, so that's good to keep in mind. But we are gonna remove them just to get this entire thing installed and then put them back at the end. I'll walk you through every single step of the process. There's no cutting, no welding, no drilling, it's direct bolt-on kit. What do you say we get started?Tools used in this install include an impact gun, a variety of extensions, three-eighths ratchet, 10-millimeter deep socket, recommended but not required would be a 13-millimeter swivel socket, short and deep 15 sockets, WD-40 is recommended, some eye protection is also recommended, a mallet, hanger removal tool and a couple of pry bars.First up here, guys, I'm gonna grab WD-40, you can use PB B'laster or white lithium, all do the same thing. We're gonna lube up all of the exhaust hanger isolators, makes life a little easier when we get to removing them. And we are gonna remove this entire bracket, but I am still gonna lubricate everything here. Basically just like that. Do the same thing on the other side. Make sure we're getting a little lube in there. All right, so you want to do this exact same thing to all of the isolators on the entire exhaust, you can even do the same thing to the bolts and clamps if they're looking a little worse for wear.All right, so first step after the WD-40, I'm gonna grab a 10-millimeter socket and I'm gonna unbolt our passenger side tip connected to the isolator bracket. The bracket is connected to the frame here, so let's get that off, it's a lot easier than trying to slide the hanger out of the isolator. You want to hang onto the hardware to be re-installed later. All right, I'm gonna use a hammer just to tap this bracket out of place. This isolator bracket is still hung onto those studs, so let's get those out of the way. All right, do the same thing on the other side.At this point, we are gonna loosen the clamps connecting the two tailpipes behind the spare tire above the axle. So right over the over-axle pipes, grab a 15-millimeter socket. I'm gonna use an extension just because it's a little higher up there and loosen them up. All right, so now I'm gonna try a pry bar because it's given us a little trouble. So we'll use a pry bar against this hanger and push backwards. There we go. We can set this aside.First couple of steps, I'm actually gonna use a mallet here because this is a little bit of a different shape. I'm gonna use this mallet to tap here to get this to slide out. A little bit of a tighter space for an impact gun, so I'm gonna use my ratchet here and a 15. So right behind our muffler between our muffler over the axle pipe and the muffler by the mid-pipe, we're gonna loosen up these three clamp bolts. So there's two on this band clamp and one over here.Now that we have those clamps loosened up, the next step is to try to get the pipes to slide out easily. Now I'm not really worried about our hangers, they're lubricated so I think they'll come out pretty simple. But what we're gonna do now is use a mallet, tap on the back of this muffler to get these pipes to slide out and disconnect. There we go. So that's disconnected. Now we can work on our hangers.All right, so I got my buddy Joe here to support the other side of this muffler by the over-axle pipes. I'm gonna use my hanger tool because this is almost on its way out. All right, next step is gonna be a little tough. We're gonna have to loosen the clamp at the back of our mid-pipe here. Now this guy again is facing up, we're gonna use our ratchet and our 15-millimeter socket to get up in there and then we're gonna disconnect this clamp and remove our mid-pipe. For this, we switched over to a 15 short socket just because there isn't a ton of room up here. So here's a trick, if you guys are having trouble breaking this loose, you can grab a pry bar and use this guy to basically pry the ratchet, gives you a little bit more leverage. Help crack it loose, and then you can go back up here and really get it loose. All right, next we're gonna tackle this clamp here. Now the flange has two 13-millimeter bolts, this I'm gonna use a short extension, an impact gun and a 13 swivel socket, that'll definitely make life a little easier. We'll get these guys completely out to be re-installed later. All right, so now I lowered my pole jack, we're gonna get this out and set it aside.So we got our factory mid-pipe and mid-muffler assembly off of our 2019 Raptor, it's on the ground next to our Borla ATAK X-pipe and mid-muffler assembly. Now I want to take you through some similarities and differences. Let's start with a couple of similarities. Now really, there're only two. Number one is gonna be the fitment. It's gonna fit exactly the same as your OEM kit. And number two, the diameter of the piping. Both kits use a 2-3/4 inches diameter pipe but the big differences are coming next.Starting at the front of the vehicle, you have a resonator mid-pipe, comparing that to your new X-pipe is a drastic difference. Your X-pipe here is gonna help you have a more free-flowing exhaust flow, very much less restrictive than your factory mid-pipe here with that resonator and it's also gonna open up a lot more of the power capabilities and a lot more of that volume. X-pipes are known to be a lot raspier and a lot louder and that crossed midsection allows for a seamless air flow. Now that kit is made from a 304-stainless steel, also mandrel bent to make sure that the bends are kink-free, allowing for the smoother and higher velocity airflow. So that's a good addition to this. Now some of the alternatives out there would be an H-pipe, which is in the shape of an H, obviously, that has a little bit more of a restricted airflow and offers a deeper tone. So compare that to the X-pipe, most people typically go for the X-pipe when going for a louder and more powerful exhaust.Next section is gonna be our massive muffler from 2019 Raptor. Compare that to our new Borla ATAK, this has two mufflers separated by two little outlets here. And the Borla ATAK is gonna be less restrictive than your muffler here from the factory but it's also going to open up a lot of sound possibility. ATAK stands for acoustically tuned applied kinetics, and what that basically means is that's Borla's technology built into their louder tier muffler system, the ATAK, which is going to allow for the highest possible volume out of their exhaust while allowing for the least amount of distortion in the exhaust tone. Plain and simple, you're getting a loud exhaust with the ATAK that doesn't sound like crap. That's pretty plain and simple. The ATAK sounds really, really good, it doesn't have a lot of drone inside the cabin, which is really unlike a lot of the louder exhaust systems out there. The ATAK does keep down some of that drone capabilities. Now at highway speeds, you might get a little bit inside the cabin, it's to be expected with a five out of five exhaust, but the ATAK keeps it at a minimum.Moving forward. The rest of the kit, of course mufflers and everything, 304-stainless mandrel bent tubing, that 2-3/4 inch that I talked about. And this over-axle pipe ends the exact same way that your factory one did and it'll connect to your factory tips and tailpipes. Now what we're gonna have to do is grab some of our new clamps included in the kit and we'll get to work installing starting with our X-pipe.All right, first step, let's grab our X-pipe. Now it only goes on one way and I'm also gonna use a pole jack again to help support it. It's a little bit longer than our factory assembly, so this I'm gonna space out a little bit and just hold up that other end. We're gonna place it into our factory hardware using the factory flange and that factory clamp that was upside down. Unfortunately, we cannot rotate it because it hooks into a welded on retainer pin, show you guys that in a second. So let's get this up in the air. And again, I'm just gonna feed this guy right around and put it on that pole jack. All right, so feed that into the factory clamp first. All right, I'm gonna grab a mallet to help me tap this guy into place. Now that pin I was telling you about on that factory clamp, it's right up here. You can see this little tab that hooks into a retainer pin that positions the clamp to make sure it's in the right spot at all times, so that's why we can't rotate it. Now let's take our factory 13-millimeter bolts, line up that X-pipe once more. You want to make sure that this is like...this is kind of like a ball clamp, you want them to be inserted into each other directly. So we're gonna use our 13 bolts to tighten these guys down to make sure they're aligned properly. All right, so now let's grab our socket and tighten these guys down. All right, now I'm not gonna tighten down the band clamp just yet, I want to allow for a little bit of flex. Once we know that everything is aligned where we want it to be, we'll come back and make sure that's nice and tight.All right, so we're taking a quick stop down onto the ground here. We're gonna install our extension pipes onto the inlet of the ATAK mufflers. Now you should only be using these if you have a super cab, if you have an extended cab, you don't want to use these, they won't be necessary but because we're working on a Raptor, we are gonna use them. Now what we're gonna do is we're gonna slide these guys right on in, seat them all the way, and then use these clamps and tighten them down. You want to make sure you put the clamps on first and rotate those into position and we can tighten these guys down. And then what you're gonna do is take clamps and put them on the other end when we install them into our X-pipe. All right, so I'm gonna flip this guy over and tighten those down. With those guys tightened down, let's get this thing up into the truck. All right, so now what we're gonna do is focus on putting in our hangers and sliding the extension pipes into place. All right, so we're just gonna slide this guy all the way back into the X-pipe. We had this hanger seated and the one above the muffler over the axle. So now we can tighten down these clamps on our extension pipes. All right, so now I'm gonna rotate these clamps into position and tighten them down.All right, next up we're gonna focus on reinstalling our factory tailpipes. I'm gonna start here on our driver's side because it is a little bit more difficult and I'd like this open space without our passenger side pipe being there. So I'm gonna take a clamp and just first off, put it over this end here. Now we can get our pipe. For the driver's side tailpipe, you may find it easier to just unbolt this bracket all together, that way you can install onto your hanger and then put the tailpipe up, otherwise it can be a little difficult to maneuver the pipe into position. So I'm gonna remove this 10-millimeter bolt and the 10-millimeter one up above it.All right, so when you put this onto your hanger, if you are doing it this way, you just want to make sure that the bracket is facing the right direction. You can just rotate it down and out of the way for right now. All right, so now we can take that pipe and set it into place on our new muffler. All right, from here we can grab a bolt and set that bracket into place on the frame.All right, so once you have that bracket back in place, put the bolts in as you just saw and go back and tighten them down. All right, at this point, we're gonna slide this clamp up and tighten it down. All right, so now we're focusing on the bracket next to our tip. We're gonna rotate this guy back up toward the frame where those two holes are and we can push this so that this bracket can slide through. Just like that. Take the two factory nuts that came with that bracket and tighten it down to the inside by hand, and then grab a 10-millimeter socket and tighten it down with your impact gun or your ratchet. Awesome. Now do the same thing on the other side but much easier.All right, now we're gonna just same thing on our passenger side. Of course, make sure you have a clamp over this inlet here before you do. All right, so I'm just using this pole jack to help me line up the hanger just by pushing up on the exhaust. All right, we got that seated, I'm gonna bring our clamp back up and tighten it down. All right, last step. Let's put this bracket back up by the tips with that factory dual-plated bolt. Take those factory 10 millimeter nuts, thread them in by hand, then tighten them down with your 10 socket.Well, once you have your tips in place with those brackets and have them tightened down, go back throughout the entire kit, make sure all of your clamps are tight, make sure there's no rubbing on any of the frame portions, and to make sure there's no rubbing on your spare tire. From there, you should be good to go. Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Borla ATAK Mid-Muffler Assembly with the X-Pipe Combo, available for the '17 and newer Raptor. If you want to get yours, you can do so right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • "ATAK" Race Inspired Muffler
      • Loud Aggressive Sound
      • Durable Stainless Steel Construction
      • Mandrel Bent Tubing
      • Fits 2017-2020 F-150 Raptor


      Increased Torque and Horsepower. If you're looking to improve performance and power of our Ford F150, replace your stock exhaust system with a Borla ATAK Mid-Section Muffler Assembly w/ X-Pipe. This replacement muffler and X-Pipe Assembly with mandrel bends will increase horsepower between 7 - 10%. The increased exhaust velocity adds power and is designed to produce the highest possible decibel levels while retaining clarity of sound.

      Distinctive Borla Sound. Instantly gain the respect of any F150 enthusiast by installing the Borla ATAK Mid-Section Muffler Assembly w/ X-Pipe. Borla mufflers deliver a rich, aggressive sound while maintaining the original stock look.

      High-Quality Construction. The Borla ATAK Mid-Section Muffler Assembly w/ X-Pipe exhausts are crafted with aircraft-quality T-304 stainless steel to resist rust and provide excellent strength. The mandrel bends ensure the smoothest flow possible, even compared to a straight pipe.

      No Tune Required. The Borla ATAK Mid-Section Muffler Assembly w/ X-Pipe is designed to improve the performance, power and fuel economy of your F150.

      Not CARB Certified. The Borla ATAK Mid-Section Muffler Assembly w/ X-Pipe are not CARB certified, therefore, it is not legal for use in California or any other state adopting California emission.

      Application. The Borla ATAK Mid-Section Muffler Assembly w/ X-Pipe is designed to fit the 2017-2020 Ford F150 Raptor equipped with 3.5L HO EcoBoost.

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      Borla 60638

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Muffler Replacement
      • (4) Clamps
      • Installation Hardware

      Customer Reviews (10)

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