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Barricade Extreme HD Front Bumper with LED Fog Lights (14-15 Silverado 1500)

Item S101322
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with americantrucks.com. And today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the Barricade Extreme HD Front Bumper with LED Fog Lights, in the Textured Black Finish, available for the 2014 to 2015 Silverado 1500. You should be checking this out if you're looking for an entry-level front bumper with just a little bit extra there, in terms of auxiliary lighting to light up the road, both on and off-road, whether you're using it as a work truck or a daily driver. Now, being an entry-level front bumper, it is one of the more basic or more common designs in the aftermarket bumper category. But those lights do spice things up a bit. This guy's made from a heavy-duty 5/32-inch steel plating. It's a full-width, fully welded one-piece design here, and it even retains your factory tow hooks if your truck came with them off the line, like ours did. Now, this guy here has a very angular finish to it, which you can see. It's very blocky shaped. It's got better ground clearance and better approach angles. What that basically translates to is if you're heading off-road, even if it's just light trails, you'll be able to go over some of the smaller obstacles that you otherwise may not have been able to with your factory bumper, which hangs down pretty low.Now, we'll take a closer look at that, comparing the two side by side later on in the video. But just know that the front end here comes up a little bit higher, and your approach angles are angled upward a little bit more. That means that when you approach a smaller obstacle, your tires will be able to contact and go over the obstacle before your front bumper did. But even if it did, the bumper is a lot more durable. This guy can take a beating a lot more so than the factory bumper, and a lot more so than some of the other options out there. Now, there are other options out there that have a ton of bells and whistles, things like auxiliary lighting, in terms of cube lighting and light bars and skid plates, and so on. This guy only comes with two LED cube lights, which are extremely high-powered and waterproof, rated with an IP 67 waterproof rating. So, if you're heading off-road and you're really putting this thing through the wringer, mud, water, all splashing up at those things, they will last for the long haul. And they're super bright, around 6,000k color temperature, so it's a pure white light. This bumper does have a large center cutout there, with two brackets welded on the back end for you to add a single double-row 20-inch light bar. Now, it doesn't come with a light bar, you can pick one up separately and bolt it right up, with no modification necessary.In addition to that, you can also pick up the Barricade HD off-road skid plate, and add it to the bottom end of this bumper here, if you're looking to add some undercarriage protection, so, lots of room for adding on in the future, comes with some upgraded lights, without blowing the cost out of the water. Now, if you don't need the lights included in the kit like this one has, you can get the base model of this bumper that doesn't include the lights for about 100 bucks less. This one comes in right around 900 bucks. Install. Two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It is a two-man job. It's pretty heavy, and a bulky bumper. But if you have a helping hand on deck, you can definitely get this installed in about two hours from start to finish. I will say that the lighting involved is not that hard of a process, but it can be a little bit custom, depending on how you want to handle it. All of the harnesses are included in the kit to make it very much plug-and-play. You just have to run the wiring from the lights to your battery, and then into the cabin on your driver's side, so you can easily access that on-off switch. The on-off switch is a separate switch, so you just get to turn those lights on and off whenever you'd like, preferably off-road, because they are extremely bright.With that said, there is one more thing to mention. The wheel well liners are gonna hang down below your bumper now, because the bumper has better approach angles. You'll be able to see them from the front end, in which case, I recommend trimming the wheel well liners even with the bottom line of the bumper there, so it's not as noticeable from the front end. With that said, guys, I'm gonna show you every step of the process. Let's get started.Tools used in the install include an impact gun, extension, a couple of ratchets, 7-millimeter, 10-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 16-millimeter, 18-millimeter, and 19-millimeter deep sockets, T15 Torx bit, Phillips head screwdriver, panel removal tool, 13-millimeter, 16-millimeter, and 18-millimeter wrenches, and if you need any additional tools for running your wiring.First up, of course, pop your hood. We gotta get our factory grille out of the way. In order to do that, we need to access the bolts underneath by taking off our top radiator shroud. Grab your panel removal tool, and we're going to remove these black pushpin clips all along the top. So, now we can lift up on the shroud itself and set it aside. So, now we can grab a 10-millimeter socket and get off the four 10-millimeter bolts holding on the top of our grille.We have to take off the trim going underneath of the grille on top of the bumper. In each of the wheel wells, there's a Phillips head screw, so I'm going to use this little stubby screwdriver to get these off. All right. Once you have one side off, that should break free. Do the same thing on the other side. So, now we can take that trim piece off here. We already peeled off the one side. Once you take care of the other side here, it's all going to come off in one piece. You can pull this off in one piece and set it aside. Underneath of the grille, behind that trim panel we just removed, there are four bolts holding on the bottom of that grille there. Grab your extension and 10-millimeter, start from one side, and work away around.Now we can take our grille off. Start from the top, pull that guy down. Make sure it's disconnected, and set it aside. Before we move on to the next step, I just want to quickly say that you don't have to take the front bumper off in order to go forward. You can see the bolts holding on the tow hooks from here, but the bumper brackets on the backside do tend to make it a little bit difficult getting a longer bolt out of place. In order to give yourself more clearance, it's recommended to do one of two things. Loosen up all of the bolts on the bumper, and wiggle it around just to get enough clearance there, or just take the bumper off altogether. If you're already loosening the bolts, it could be easier just to take it off. That's the route I'm gonna take. It's completely up to you.From here, we're gonna grab our 19 socket and extension, and get the four bumper bolts holding it on from the top. While we're up here, because I'm going to completely remove the front bumper, I want to unplug this fog light harness, sits right in the middle there. You're just going to pinch and disconnect. Now, directly in front of each tire, there's a bar running underneath that connects the corners of the bumper to the frame. Crawl underneath, and get that one 18-millimeter bolt on each side. You're seeing it from the top angle. You can see the bolt is facing downward. Grab your extension and impact gun and get those off. Now, if you've just loosened all the bolts, at this point, you can start wiggling the bumper to get some clearance on those tow hook bolts. But if you're removing it like I am, you can pull the whole thing off now. Now we have complete access to our tow hooks, whether you have the bumper off or not. Grab an 18-millimeter wrench, you're going to hold the bolt head on the inside, along with an 18 socket on the outside nut, and get that first bolt off. With the nut loose on the other side, you can pull this straight back. All right. Now, on the opposite side, I'm gonna switch over to my 19 socket, and get the other bolt off. Tow hook comes out, and you can set those bolts aside. Now you can repeat the exact same thing for the other tow hook.Last step of the uninstall is going to be to remove these black plastic brackets from underneath the headlight, where it meets the fender. There are two 7-millimeter bolts facing out, with the bolt head on the inside, so you have to go underneath, and then there's one in the wheel well. So, I'm gonna get this one off, then you'll repeat that for this, and then in the wheel well. Once you get far enough along, you should be able to get your hand in there to get the bolt out. All right. There it is. Just a small 7-millimeter bolt. Again, right there, facing outward. Tuck that down and repeat that for this. Okay. So, now we have one more in the wheel well. All right. We actually have one more here on the side, down below. This one is a little bit easier to get to. Okay. Repeat that for the other side.So, we got our factory bumper off of our '14 RAM, and it's on this rack here, underneath of our Barricade Extreme HD Front Bumper, with the LED fog lights on the ground, which we'll install later on. I want to take you through some similarities and differences between the two kits here. First and foremost, let's talk about the way it looks. Now, your factory front bumper there, at least ours, is completely chromed out, with a black chin lip at the bottom there. Now, I am not a fan of the chrome look, so upgrading to the textured black finish gives you that stealthy look. I really like the way that this look compared to the factory one.Now, aside from that, materials and durability here is a huge upgrade. This is heavy-duty 5/32 steel plating, fully welded, one-piece. Your factory bumper is going to be a lot more susceptible to damage and dents and scratches and all that nasty stuff on and off-road. Your new Barricade one is going to be a lot more durable, and can take that beating. It's also got better ground clearance and approach angles, like I said earlier. That factory bumper here, with that chin spoiler, comes down pretty low to the ground. This new bumper doesn't have any of that, so it's got better angles to the front, and the approach angles here, you can see how much more narrow this is compared to the factory one, where it meets the fender and wheel well. So, this is going to give you a lot better area to contact your tire on the obstacle, rather than your bumper, but if your bumper did, this is obviously gonna take that beating. In terms of lighting capabilities, our factory bumper did come with fog lights, but if yours didn't, then this is gonna be an even better upgrade. You can see this comes with two individual LED high-powered cube lights, which will fit perfectly in these angular cutouts here. There are three slots up at the roof of this here to help you bolt it down, so no drilling or welding or any of that nonsense. Bolts right down, and the wiring will go straight through that honeycomb backing.Now, this section here can fit up to two, maybe three cube lights, depending on their size. They can fit definitely two of these on each side, but two are included in the kit, so you can put one on both sides of the bumper. The center section has a cutout perfect for a light bar, and the brackets are included already in the back of the bumper, but it doesn't come with a light bar. You can always pick that up separately. With all that said, that's not something you can say for the factory bumper. The only thing you'll be transferring over from your factory bumper that'll be the same or your tow hooks, if your truck came with them from the factory, like ours did. They fit right in these cutouts here. Next, what we're going to do is install our grommets. The grommets for us are going to plug up the parking sensor holes. Now, if your truck did come with parking sensors, you want to transfer those over, but if not, install the grommets like we're going to. So, let's get started.All right. So, next up, we're focusing here on the passenger side of our bumper. We have these two parking light sensor holes. Again, if you have parking sensors, you want to transfer them over. If not, you're going to plug them up with these grommets like I'm doing. They just push in from the back. All right. Repeat that on the other side. Next up, we're going to start installing our brackets. Now, that's going to go right to the frame, where your tow hooks were, just above the tow hook area. We're going to use the factory 15-millimeter bolts that we took off with those brackets. It's going to sit just like that. Keep in mind that these are side-specific, so you want to make sure you're pulling the one that's labeled "D" for driver and "P" for passenger.Now, when you tighten this down, these are slotted, so they can move side to side. You just want to try to center it as best as you can. Grab your 15 socket, I'm going to use an extension, and tighten them down. Okay. Next, we can do our tow hook assembly. Next, we're going to install our tow hook installation bracket. Now, the tow hook bracket's going to extend the tow hooks out more, to accommodate for the new bumper. Basically, grab the driver side tow hook bracket, take the double nut bolt plate, and it's going to go in just like that. When you insert this plate, it's going to go through the holes in the frame, into the holes in the extension bracket. Just like that. From there, you're going to put a flat washer, a split washer, and a nut on both of those studs. Now, before you tighten these down, there's another single bolt plate that goes on the opposite side of the frame. So, this guy is going to go the same thing, but on the other side. All right. So, this guy is gonna slide in just like that. Do the same thing on the outside. Put a washer and two spacers, and then your nut.All right. So, we can tighten these guys down. I like to get them nice and tight by hand, then grab your socket and tighten them down. Grab your 18-millimeter deep socket and tighten them down on both sides. Okay. Now we can install our tow hook. So now we're going to install our tow hook into the same spot, but you can see it's a little loose. You want to grab the shims included in the kit, and these shims here are going to add some material there so it's not loose. Grab the factory hardware, and we're going to put it straight through. I'm going to start here with the longer bolt. That's going to go in the front. Put the nut on the backside here. And you know this is threaded, so you're just going to grab your factory bolt and put it through here. Tighten that down.And now we can grab our socket and tighten all this down. Okay. So, here, I'm going to grab my 18 deep socket and hold that nut, 18 wrench, tighten these down. Now, our bolt is a 19 for the back end, so I'm going to switch over and tighten that down. Repeat this whole assembly on the other side. All right. With the helping hand of a friend, lift your bumper up into place. Perfect. All right. Now you can grab your bolt and tighten it down. All right. So, if you're by yourself, I have the bumper supported with jack stands. Then you're going to crawl underneath, make sure it's secure first. Put a bolt through, followed up with a washer, and your nut. Okay. You're gonna repeat that for all three bolts. We're gonna put the truck up in the air just to get a better view, and then we can tighten them down.Okay. So, now we have the truck up in the air for a better view. You're just gonna keep going, putting those bolts through. Make sure you have a flat washer, a split washer, and your nut on the opposite side. Okay. Put the bolts in on the other side, so repeat over there. And then with the helping hand of a friend, push the bumper up into place, and tighten these down. All right, now I know this is very tough to see, but underneath of your headlight, there's a piece of plastic, this black plastic trim, that's actually preventing our bumper from seating upward properly. So, we're going to remove that. Now, at this point, I'm going to be using two long extensions, along with a T15 Torx bit. There are two screws, one here and one in the opposite corner. I don't even need a ratchet. They're just small screws, so you can really unwind them like you would with a screwdriver. We're just gonna pull that guy out. I'm going to reach my hand in here, squeeze that down. There's one in the opposite corner, so we're going to do that one too. All right. So, we have one more, and again, I'm just using my extension, going straight up to get this guy off. All right. Just knock that guy right off. From here, we can take the plastic piece out. You can see it just falls right down. And we're just going to pull it out through the front.All right. Here's that black plastic piece. The screws were in each corner. It was upside down, just like that. You're going to get those two screws out. Repeat on the other side. All right. With the helping hand of a friend, push the bumper up into place and tighten down your bolts. Repeat on the other side. Next up, we just want to put our grille back on. So, we're gonna set that guy right on top of the bumper there. Slide it in and snap it into place. All right. Snap that guy in. Grab your 10-millimeter bolts and put them back on top. Okay. Last step is going to be the shroud. Drop that guy back in place. Grab your push pin clips, and set them back in.Now, the last step here is optional, but I'm going to recommend it anyway. Because our bumper has higher approach angles, your factory wheel well liners hang down below it, and may be an ugly sight for some people at the front end. What I'd recommend doing is taking a box cutter or a pocket knife or something, and maybe even a sharpie, draw a line straight across parallel to the bottom of the bumper, and trim off the excess wheel well liner. That way, you don't have to worry about it hanging down, and you retain the wheel liner in the wheel arches. Now, if you don't want to make that modification, and you don't want to cut, the alternative could be to just completely remove the wheel well liner, but we recommend trimming. Now, because we're gonna be going back to stock, just for demonstration purposes, I'm not going to be doing the cutting. I'm just going to tuck back the wheel well liner so you guys can get a good idea of what it would look like if you did trim it.Next up, we're going to do some wiring for the LED fog lights. I'm going to worry about the wiring first, and then install the lights in just a bit. For the wiring, you're going to bring the harness up, included in the kit. It's got these two rings for the, red positive and black negative. I'm going to bolt these up to the battery terminals. So, I'm going to grab an extension and a 10-millimeter deep socket. I'm going to loosen up and remove the nut on the negative terminal. All right. Loosen that guy up. Once you have that nut off, gonna take the negative wire here, that's the black wire, put it on top of that stud, and then put the nut back on over it. Grab your socket and tighten that back down. Okay. Once you have that tightened down, we can do the same thing for the positive terminal. We're going to pop off this cover. All right. From there, you can shut this guy. Now we can run the switch to the driver side. Now, to do this, I'm going to feed the switch underneath of the support bar, and I'm going to toss it over to the driver side, and you can zip tie it, if you want, back to this wire going across the back of the firewall, just to make it nice and neat.All right. Next up, there are a number of ways to feed your wiring harness to the cabin, but one of the most common ways is going through the grommet on your firewall that leads to the underside of your driver's dashboard. Now, this is really difficult to see, especially when my hand gets in there. But what you can do is essentially one of two things. You can either cut a little slit in there, enough to squeeze that harness and the actual controller switch through there, or you can push it off to the side, just making a little bit of room to bypass it. Now, obviously, how you do that is completely up to you. What I'm going to do now is basically just feed this through, and push it through the grommet.Again, this is gonna be really difficult to see, but you're just gonna want to feed it through. All right. Push that guy all the way in. Now we can head over to the dashboard underneath our driver's side and pull it through the rest of the way. All right. Once you have that fed through the firewall, you can pull it back from underneath the driver's side dashboard in the corner, pull that wire straight through, and it's got the sticky pad on the back, and you can really mount this wherever you need to. You can mount it here, up a little bit closer next to the steering wheel, and zip tie any excess wiring back if you need to. But at that point, you have that pulled through. Mount it to where you want, and you're good to move on.All right, so now we can install our cube lights. You're going to take the harness on the back of the light itself, you're going to feed it through the honeycomb at the back end there. It might be a little bit of a trial and error process just to get that guy through. Pull the harness through the back. Now, you want to have a bolt through the bottom, going up on this bracket. If the bracket did not come pre-installed, it's just a couple of hex screws included in the kit. You can tighten that down yourself. Ours is right out of the box ready to go. If you're gonna put your bolt up through that, put your finger through to hold it in place. Now, like I said earlier, there are three slots, one on the left, middle, and right. You just pick one. I'm going to go to the middle one. Put that up just like that. Now, you want to go up from the back of the bumper with a nut, and tighten that down to the top of the stud. This is a little bit of automotive yoga to find that stud. I'm just going to tighten it down. You want to throw a washer on there as well on the stud.All right. So, I got it hooked on. I'm just going to tighten this guy down by hand all the way. Just like that. Now, what you can do is grab a wrench and a ratchet, and you're going to tighten this guy down. All right. So, I've got my 13-millimeter socket and my ratchet up through the back of the bumper, on the stud. You're going to grab a 13-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt head, and you're going to start tightening this down. As it gets tighter, you want to make sure you're pointing the light where you want it to, and then get it nice and snug. Okay. Perfect. Repeat that on the other side. At this point, you can plug in your fog lights. You're just heading under the truck, make sure your wiring harness from the lights that we ran to the dashboard drop down through the engine bay. Feed it over to both sides. Plug these guys in. Repeat that on the other side. And then, if you want to, you can tuck up your wires or zip tie them anywhere that you please, and you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Barricade Extreme HD Front Bumper With the LED Fog Lights in the Textured Black Finish, available for the '14 to '15 Silverado 1500. You can get yours right here at americantrucks.com

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Aggressive Off-Road Styling
      • Full Width Front Bumper
      • Cold Formed Construction
      • Heavy Duty 5/32" Steel Plate
      • Black Powder Coated Finish
      • (2) High Powered LED Cube Fog Lights Included
      • Direct Bolt-On Installation
      • Fits All 2014-2015 Chevy Silverado Models

      Description

      Style and Strength. A Barricade Extreme HD Front Bumper will instantly upgrade the look of your 2014-2015 Silverado. Designed to easily replace your factory bumper, this Extreme HD Front Bumper features a pair of high powered LED cube fog lights to help light the dark path ahead.

      Integrated LED Fog Lights. This Barricade F-150 Front Bumper includes two 3 inch square LED Fog Lights. The fog lights are equipped with 5 Watt CREE LEDs to provide an intense 6000K light temperature. Each light is rated IP67 providing reliable waterproof performance, thanks to a tough aluminum housing sealed with a polycarbonate lens.

      High Quality Construction. Manufactured from heavy duty 5/32" steel plating for strength, this Barricade Front Bumper is cold formed into shape. After trimming and final finishing Barricade then completes their Bumper in a two stage finish using epoxy pre-coating and high-grade textured black powder coating for durability and long lasting corrosion resistance.

      Direct Bolt-On Installation. Barricade engineered their Extreme HD Front Bumper to be a direct bolt-on replacement for the original stock bumper reusing the factory hardware and mounting points. There is no cutting or modifications required for a clean straight forward installation. Installation can be completed in about two hours with just basic hand tools and the help of a friend.

      Application. This Barricade Off-Road Extreme HD Front Bumper with LED Cube Fog Lights fits all 2014-2015 models.

      Freight Notes. Freight items can only be shipped within the continental 48 states, no expedited methods. What is freight shipping? Your Answers are Right Here!

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Front Bumper
      • (2) Square LED Fog Lights
      • Mounting Hardware
      • Wiring Harness

      Tech Specs

      4.6

      Customer Reviews (100+)

        Questions & Answers

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