(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$41.50 (each)FREE Shipping on orders over $75
Hey, guys. Joe from AmericanTrucks. And today, we're going to be working with the Zone Offroad Nitro Rear Shock for a stock ride height up to a 2-inch lifted '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. And this right here is going to be the perfect mod for any Silverado owner looking for a cheap and cheerful way to improve the offroad performance of their truck. This is going to be a twin-tube nitrogen-charged shock, which is going to hold up a little bit better than the factory shocks would. I'm going to go into that when we get the Zone Offroad side by side next to the factory shock. But basically, the gist of it is that nitrogen charge is going to resist what's called cavitation. And when you're compressing and expanding a shock rapidly, that generates heat and air bubbles inside the shock, which compress easier than a nitrogen charge or a hydraulic fluid would.That nitrogen charge is going to help resist that cavitation. And this is going to take the abuse a lot longer before falling to that notorious shock fade. So, what else do we have with this one? Well, it's got a couple of features for durability as well. We have a chrome 14-millimeter rod. We have dual welds at both ends and self-lubricating seals, all for durability with this shock. Now, like I said earlier, this is going to fit a stock ride height truck all the way up to 2 inches of lift in the rear. So, whether or not you have a completely bone stock truck or you have a little bit of a lift going on, this is going to be a great upgrade to improve that offroad performance of your truck. So, pricing for this shock is going to come in right around the $40 mark. And just to be clear, that is the price for one of these. So, 80 bucks for the pair, really not a bad price here. Definitely more on the cost-effective side, and for what this adds to your truck, definitely money well spent. It's also made right here in the USA and backed with a limited lifetime warranty.Install for this isn't going to be bad. I'm going to show you exactly how it's done in just a second here. If you've never done this before, it's extremely easy. This is going to be an easy one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, should take you no longer than an hour to do one side, maybe two to do both sides. So, without any further ado, let me show you what tools you'll need and how it's done. Tools required for this install are going to be an impact or a ratchet, PB Blaster or any lubricant, really, WD-40, white lithium grease, something along those lines, 21-millimeter socket, some wire cutters, 21-millimeter wrench, safety glasses, a microfiber rag, and not pictured in this shot will be the vise and the pole jack. So, before we go and install our new shock, we have to get the factory one out first, and that is going to be extremely easy, like I said earlier. The first step, we're going to grab a pole jack, in our case, you can use a floor jack to do this as well. We're just gonna put that under our axle tube and just kiss it on there just so it's supported and doesn't fall down when we remove the shock.Now, with that in place, we can then take a 21-millimeter socket and 21-millimeter wrench, and remove this bolt on the bottom of our shock. Now, I'm just going to come over to the other side and use the threads on that bolt to sort of back it out. You might need to come up a little bit more with the jack just to relieve some pressure off of that. Now I can move to the top of the shock and remove the bolt that's holding it on there. The nut is welded on, so all you have to do is take the 21-millimeter socket and back that bolt out. Now, usually, when these come loose with the impact, there's a lot of rust associated, so you saw the safety glasses on my head earlier. If you have those, now will be the time to put those on. Then once that bolt's out, you might hold on to the mount a little bit, but you can pull out the shock as well. So, now, we have the factory shock off of the truck. We can now move on to our New Zone shock. And the first thing we're going to do is grab a pair of wire cutters because this comes in a packaged position here and all we're going to do is snip this wire and the shock is going to expand a little bit and that'll allow us to work on it.Then we can take that wire to throw it aside because we don't need it again. Now, with the shock in this position, all we're going to do is lubricate up the bushings that we're going to have to press in here. So, I just got this eye over a rag. I'm going to take some PB Blaster. If you don't have this stuff right here, you can also use WD-40, white lithium grease, silicone grease, whatever you want. We're just going to lubricate that up a little bit so we can press in the bushings. And we're gonna do the same thing for the bushing itself and this inner sleeve. So, I'm going to start with the bushing itself. I'm just gonna open up the vise here a little bit actually and I'm going to put that bushing in place, like that. And I just have the microfiber on there so I don't scratch up the paint. And once I have it lined up, I'm just gonna close the vise. Now, once that's started, you should be able to push it through and center it up. We're gonna do the same thing for the metal sleeve as well.So, that's one side completely installed here. We're just gonna lube up the other side and do the same thing. So, with our New Zone Nitro shock about ready to go on our Silverado here, I figured that would be the perfect time to pull back out that factory shock and point out some of the key differences between these two, most of which are not going to be obvious on the surface level. The only obvious thing, though, is if I take this factory shock here, I put it next to our zone shock. You can see this is going to be just a little bit longer to accommodate that stock ride height up to a 2-inch lift, so this is just going to extend a little bit further to accommodate that lift in the rear. Now, the main differences between these two are going to come in the body of the shock here. Now, this is going to be a hydro shock from the factory, our New Zone is going to be a nitrogen gas-charged shock.Now, as a shock compresses, the basic idea here is you're taking something, you're displacing it through valving and putting it somewhere else. In the case of our factory shock, that's hydraulic fluid, with our New Zone shock, that is going to be nitrogen-charged gas. Now, the biggest difference is going to be how much pressure is built up inside of the shock body. In the case of hydraulic fluid, that's not going to be too much, but nitrogen gas is going to be much more. As I cut that wire earlier in the video, you saw it expand on itself. A hydraulic shock will not do that because the pressure inside is not built up enough to push the piston out. That is not going to equate to a harsher ride with a nitrogen shock. You can dial out the pressure here based on the valving inside the body, but the idea behind that is the high pressure in this shock body of our New Zone Nitro shock is going to resist what's called cavitation.Now, as you're going over washboards, you're compressing this and decompressing it rapidly, you're going to build up heat, and heat causes little air bubbles to form in the body of the shock. Now, air compresses a lot easier than hydraulic fluid would, and that is what's going to give you shock fade. All the pressure in this nitrogen shock is going to resist that cavitation, and this is going to fade way, way, way, way, way later than this regular old hydraulic shock would. And that's just some of the basics between hydro versus nitro shocks. Other than that, there's really not too much differences in the looks department, obviously just that hydro versus the nitro here. So, without any further ado, we're going to grab that stock 21-millimeter hardware, we're going to take this back to our truck and get it all mounted up.So, now, we're going to take the shaft side of the shock and we're just going to put that in the upper mount and use that factory 21-millimeter bolt and thread that into the welded nut on the other side. We're going to leave that hand-tight for now so we can rotate this a little bit. We're going to get the bottom sorted and then we're going to come back and tighten that later. So, if we swing the bottom in, you can see just how much longer the new shock is going to be able to extend, and this is where we get our up to a 2-inch lift for this one.Now, in order to get this mounted up, I'm just going to lower our axle tube as low as it'll go, which is right about there, and we're still too long on our shocks. So, what I'm gonna do here is I'm going to get our bolt ready like that, press this a little bit, and run the bolt through. So, now, we have all the hardware in place. We're just going to come in with our 21-millimeter gear and tighten down all of the nuts and bolts. Now, these are sold as just one shock. So, if you purchase a second one, the install is going to be the same exact thing for the other side. But that's gonna do it for my review and install of the Zone Offroad Nitro Rear Shock, fitting all stock ride height up to 2-inch lifted '07 to '18 Silverado 1500s. Thank you for watching. Subscribe for more videos like this one. And as always, keep it right here at AmericanTrucks for all things Chevy.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
March 04, 2018
Installed these shocks after a 3” front and 2” rear lift/level kit. So far I think it’s a great shock for the price point. Would purchase again.Helpful (13)
No questions about this product yet.Ask the First Question
(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box