(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$224.95 (kit)FREE Shipping
Saved - View your saved items
We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.
Hey, guys. Adam here with americantrucks.com, and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Supreme Suspensions 3.5-Inch Front, 1-Inch Rear Lift Kit, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. You should be checking this out if you're looking to fit larger wheels and tires on your truck comfortably up to 33s, if you're looking for additional ground clearance at the front and rear, and if you're looking to get rid of that factory rake by leveling out your truck's appearance. Now, leveling out your truck's appearance is pretty simple, right? You wanna bring the front end up to match the rear. Now, with this kit, you're lifting the front and rear but the front significantly more, so it is gonna level out the truck's appearance. Rake from the factory basically as your front end's sitting lower than the rear to help with towing and hauling. And if you're like most truck owners who don't really like the look of that, a leveling or lift kit like this one will help level out that appearance.Fitting larger wheels and tires on your truck can be pretty difficult with the Silverado because of those square wheel wells. You can fit up the 33-inch tires comfortably with a leveling kit like this one, 3.5 inches at the front end is a little bit more than your traditional leveling kit so it does help you fit those 33s pretty comfortably without any rubbing. Now, if you have some more super aggressive mud terrain tires, you may experience some very slight rubbing at full lock in reverse, in which case it'll just be rubbing on the inside of that inner wheel well liner, but most truck owners don't mind and it's something you absolutely can drive with. Fitting up to 35s is pretty difficult, 35s typically require 6 inches or more of lift at the front and rear. Now, with anything lower than 6 inches you will experience rubbing. So, with this kit 35s we'll be testing out and showing you guys how much that rubs at full lock. Keep that in mind. Now, our factory truck came with 31-inch tires which can change depending on your year, gen, and model trim package. Ours came with 31s, we'll be showing you the stock 31s and aftermarket 33s to show the fitment.This kit here comes with two spacers for the front. You get a spacer for the top of the factory strut and you get a spacer for the bottom of the factory strut. The front spacer for the top is gonna measure in just over an inch and a half, and the bottom spacer measures in and about a half an inch. Now, together that's a little over 2 inches but combine that with those changes in suspension geometry and spring compression, your final lift height at the front end will be 3.5 inches. Now, the rear block here measures in and about an inch to achieve the 1-inch rear lift. Now, if your truck did not come with a factory rear lift block, then you'll be gaining 1 inches of height at the rear end with this kit. If your truck was like ours, however, and it came with a factory 1-inch rear lift block like the LTZs and Z71s for example, then you'll be replacing that factory block with a 1-inch block from this kit, in which case you'll have the same exact factory height at the rear. Now, the front top spacers and the rear lift blocks are made from a billet aluminum construction with a black anodized finished for oxidation and corrosion resistance. The bottom spacers for the front are made from a composite material that won't crack or fade over time, they're definitely in it for the long haul. Now, the rear also accommodates the larger lift lots with larger U-bolts, so we won't be reusing the factory one. And we'll show you guys what that install looks like in just a little bit.The price tag comes in right around 300 bucks. Installing I'm giving two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It's a lot more involved than say a simple cold air intake, but it doesn't require any permanent modifications like cutting, drilling, or welding. This is a direct bolt-on kit so it gets two out of three wrenches. It is gonna take you about three, maybe four hours from start to finish depending on your experience. If you're not comfortable tackling it yourself, you can hand it over to a professional to get done properly. Now, keep in mind at the end of the install, you wanna make sure you're looking up all the torque specs for your specific year and model because it can vary. So, you are gonna torque down all of your bolts and you are gonna need an alignment. With that said, let's get started.Tools used in this install include an impact gun, air impactck gun, 10-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 17-millimeter, 21-millimeter, and 22-millimeter deep sockets, 8-millimeter hex socket or Allen key, 5.5-millimeter Allen key, 15-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 21-millimeter wrenches. Recommended would be a 15-millimeter and 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, flathead screwdriver, pry bar, panel removal tool, and a hammer.All right, let's kick off the uninstall here. The first thing we wanna do is remove the brake line brackets and the ABS line brackets so that when everything's loose and at full slack or full droop, it's not putting pressure on these lines. There's a 10-millimeter right here, and a 10-millimeter right there. Just grab your 10 socket to get those 2 off. Now, what I like to do just so we don't lose the bolt is just thread it on a couple of threads right back in the hole while the bracket is loose, that way we know where it is. Same thing back here, get that bracket off. I'm just gonna lightly thread it back in, just like that.All right, next up we're gonna loosen up the top nut for our sway bar end link. In order to do that, however, just because there's not a whole lot of room to work with, I'm gonna put a 15-millimeter wrench on the nut on top and use my 15 deep socket on the bolt going through the bottom and that'll loosen it up. Just like that. Now, you don't have to take the entire end link straight down, just wanna grab that nut off the top, and if you can, take the bushing off as well and just set those aside. All right, next up we're gonna loosen up and remove our tie rod end. Just grab your 21-millimeter deep socket and get that guy off. Now, something to keep in mind here is that if you take this off, then this whole thing's gonna start moving. What I'm actually gonna do now that it's loose, is just put the tie rod end back in, and just put this in a couple of threads. We're gonna want this to be pretty stable for the rest of the uninstall, at least up until the point of the upper control arm coming off, so let's just keep that there for now. Next, we're gonna be loosening up and removing the nut on the bottom of our upper control arm where the ball joint connects to the hub here. Now, in order to do that, you're gonna grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, that's at least what I recommend, because there's not a lot of room here. And this is where we want the stability of the tie rod end because we don't want this thing moving back and forth. So, let's crack this guy loose. All right, now once this is loose, what we're gonna do is take the nut completely off and then thread it back in a couple of threads. All right, so it's on a couple of threads there, and now we can grab a hammer and start tapping on the side to dislodge the ball joint. There it is.So, now that we have everything loose, let's take our tie rod end completely off. I'm just gonna put this nut back on so we don't lose it. Now we can swivel this guy out, gonna push down and remove the nut here. Okay, once this nut is off, I'm gonna set that guy side. This upper control arm is gonna pop out, so you just wanna be there to support it. Make sure the lines are out of the way and now that's free. Now we wanna remove the two bottom strut bolts, they're 17-millimeters. Keep in mind once these two guys come out, the entire lower control arm is gonna drop down, so just watch your head. The next step here is to remove the top 3 nuts, they're 18-millimeters, and then the entire strut will come out. Before we can do that grab a panel removal tool or something similar. There are these little clips holding onto the front stud, and then the one closest to the front of the vehicle here on our driver side, just gonna pop those guys off, same thing on the opposite side as well. So, once you have those off, grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and get those 3 off. Okay, once you have all three off, the strut will drop down and you can take it off. Okay, set it aside. Now, when it comes to the uninstall, you can repeat that exact same process on the other side.Next up here we have to assemble our spacer. Now you wanna take the hex bolts included in the kit, you're gonna go through the bottom and just thread these guys into those holes. Now, you don't wanna tighten them down just yet. We're gonna thread all three of them in and then you're gonna grab a hex socket or Allen key and tighten these guys down. So, grab your impact gun and do that now. All right, and this is an 8-millimeter socket. Now we can drop it onto our strut.Next, I'm putting my strut up in between my legs just to make it easier, and we're gonna take the spacer and we're gonna rotate this until it drops on just like that. Next you wanna grab the washers, split washer, and nut included in the kit and tighten them down to the factory studs. Next you can grab your 17 socket and tighten those guys down. All right, now we can throw this back in the truck.Next, take your factory strut with the spacer installed, go up back into the strut tower. Line it up to the holes at the top. Now I'm gonna take a factory nut, I'm gonna it on one of the back studs loosely just to hold this guy in place. Okay, next up I'm gonna be putting our bottom spacer in place from the back end just like this. Now, I'm not reusing the factory hardware, I have new hardware here. Our factory bolts were pretty stripped out. So, I took the threaded nut off the top, but you can use the factory hardware to go up through the bottom and put the bolts back through. Next I'm gonna use a hammer to tap my bolt through. Okay, put the other bolt through, and then we'll put our nuts on the bottom. Now, this is gonna be tough to see, but I'm just gonna go right underneath and put our nuts along with a washer on our stud. All right, so I got my nuts on the bottom there, we'll tighten those down in just a second. What I wanna do first is get the upper control arm seated.So, next, what I'm gonna do is jack up or lower control arm with a hydraulic jack so that we can easily seat our upper control arm. I'm gonna put my pry bar underneath the one of the coils so I can pry down. Gonna take the nut off here, outta the way. Now I'm gonna lift up on the knuckle to seat it. So I gotta pry up, get the stud seated. With that seated, pry down, push it through, and put our nut on. You wanna make sure your ABS line is on top of the upper control arm, not underneath. Next let's seat our tie rod end. Tighten down your upper control arm and then the tie rod end. Grab your 21 deep socket and tighten down your tie rod end. Next, grab your socket and wrench and we're gonna tighten down the lower strut bolts. Next, we're gonna do our sway bar end link. Put the rod through the middle, sleeve is gonna go through the middle here, go up to the top. Put your bushing on and then your nut. You may need to pry down on the sway bar. If you're doing it simultaneously from the other side, it does make it a lot easier. All right, put your nut back on top, thread it on a couple of threads and then tighten it down. Grab your 15 socket and tighten it down along with your wrench. All right, next up, we can tighten down our top three bolts, put all three of them in position if you haven't done so already. Grab your 18 ratcheting wrench if that's what you're using and tighten them down. Next, we can worry about our brake lines. Grab your 10 socket, take those bolts back out. Set the bracket back in place, grab your 10 socket and tighten them down. Same thing on the upper control arm. All right, torque down all your bolts, repeat on the other side, and you're good to go.Moving on to the rear, the first thing I wanna mention here is to properly support your rear axle. Now, because we're using a lift and we're up in the air, I have two pole jacks, one on each side close to the bottom of the shock there. Now, if you're working on the ground, you wanna make sure you're using a hydraulic jack, in which case you can put it right underneath the rear diff. If you have a couple of them you can go on both sides, but the rear diff will be sufficient. At this point, everything you do to one side you simultaneously wanna do to the other. So, once you have the weight taken off with it jacked up on both sides, again we're using the pole jacks, we're gonna start by removing the bottom shock bolt. But once you remove that, same thing on the other side and then we'll get to the U-bolts.For this I'm gonna grab my 21-millimeter deep socket on my impact gun. I'm using air but you can use a regular cordless impact if you need to or a ratchet. I'm gonna put my 21-millimeter wrench on the bolt head and take this guy off. Now, if your bolt is tight, you wanna jack up just to take the pressure off of that guy and then start working it off. All right, do the same thing on the other side. All right, next up, again, it's very crucial that you have the weight supported underneath. Again, I'm using pole jacks, this is the absolute part where you need that to happen. You're gonna use your 21 deep socket, and we're gonna start removing the bolts on the U-bolts underneath of where that cradle is. So, we're gonna start taking these guys off. Now, one thing I would recommend is loosen them all the way to where they're just hand-tight, you can pop them off by hand, because this guy is gonna start to drop off. So, you don't wanna hit all four and then it just fall to the ground. I just like to leave the nuts on a couple of threads so we can easily catch it.I'll just put this guy back on a couple of threads, and then just work my way around. Okay, so now we can start taking these guys off. Now, once you get to the last one, this cradle is gonna come with it. So, just pull that guy off with it. Next we can lift up the factory U-bolts because we'll be replacing them, they're not gonna be long enough for the lifted application. Pull those guys out and set those aside.Now, before we start lowering this side down to replace the factory lift block, we're gonna repeat the exact same thing on the other side, and then we'll start swapping them out. All right, from here you can slowly and carefully start lowering these guys down. I recommend lowering them simultaneously, but you can go one after the next. Just make sure you're doing a little bit at a time until it's loose enough to get it out. Now, before moving any further we did throw a pole jack underneath of our driveshaft just to add some support to it, it starts to slouch backward. I started to put a pole jack there and jacked it up just to support that driveshaft so it doesn't tilt backward. At this point we can start continuing moving downward. Now, we're already pretty loose, I'm just gonna go a little bit more on both sides. All right, at that point, you can go in, grab that factory block, and slide that guy out. Set that aside, repeat on the other side and we're good to move on. Just to give us a little bit more slack on the rear axle, I'm gonna remove the 13-millimeter bolt on the frame here holding up our E-brake cables. That way, there's not a lot of tension being put on it. Grab a 13 socket and get that guy off. Once that's off, just lift up that hook from the frame and now this guy's loose.So, we got our factory lift block off the driver side of our 2014 Silverado LTZ, and it's next to our 1-inch rear lift block from Supreme Suspensions. The big difference here I wanna talk about is going from your factory steel construction, which as you can see is looking a little worse for wear, a little rusted up. Still in decent condition to use, but if we're swapping out the front end, it's a nice idea to get a new lift block for the rear. Now, this one's made from a billet aluminum. This is a CNC cut with black anodized finish on top. That's gonna help with corrosion and oxidation resistance. So, this one should hold up a lot longer than your factory one. But of course, you wanna take the factory one off and replace it with the new one you're not stacking. With that said you wanna take this guy, we're gonna start installing it, factory one, let's set it aside. There are new U-bolts included in the kit to make sure we're accommodating for the new lift block, swapping out the factory hardware. The only thing we'll be using is the bottom cradle. So, let's get started.All right, so with the factory lift block out of the way, let's put this block in place. You wanna make sure that retainer pin is in place as well. Now you can start lifting this guy up and just make it so that the indent or the open hole on the top is lining up with this little knob underneath of our leaf spring. So, you can sort of manipulate the axle one way or the other to help get that thing guide in place. From there, you can start repeating that on the other side, and then jacking it up and we'll start putting our U-bolts on.Now, before we put our U-bolts in, I like the way that our shock is lined up, so let's put that shock bolt through. That way we know that this is gonna stay lined up. If you need to, you can sort of go up or down just to get it to line up properly just like that. I'm not gonna tighten this down just yet, we'll come back and do that last, let's focus on our U-bolts bolts. All right, take your new U-bolts included in the kit, drop them into place on their factory spot. All right, grab the factory cradle, go underneath with it and take the new bolts included in the kit and start putting them on by hand. All right, I like to get these tight all the way by hand just because these studs are really long. All right, I'd be shocked if our deep socket can get on this. You may need to grab a ratcheting wrench or a regular wrench to get these tight. But look up your torque specs and torque these guys down.All right, it looks like we can get our deep socket on just enough, let's tighten these down. At this point, you can torque them down. Next up, we can tighten down our shock. Grab your 21 deep socket and wrench. Repeat that on the other side. Finally, we can just put our brake line back on to the side if you took yours off like I did. Gonna lift this guy back up. Grab your 13 socket and tighten that down. Torque down all your bolts and you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Supreme Suspensions 3.5-Inch Front, 1-Inch Rear Lift Kit, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. Get yours right here at americantrucks.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Shop All 3 to 5 Inch Truck Lift Kits
Shop All Truck Parts And Accessories
Shop All Truck Lift Kits
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Supreme Suspensions CHSL07FK3510
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions