(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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The A16 5th Wheel Trailer Hitch and Slider that we have here today will be a great option for the 2011 and newer Super Duty owners who already have Ford's puck system in place and wanna help safely and quietly tow up to 16,000 pounds. Now, this specific kit is, again, designed for the 6.75-foot bed owners out there with the OE Ford-style puck system in place and, again, will include that roller-style mounting system and, of course, your A16 head. Now, pricepoint for everything is gonna live in that high $1,500 range, and the install, at least according to the site, will get very heavy 2 out of 3 wrenches on the old difficulty meter and take you at least an hour or so to wrap up from start to finish as we'll demonstrate later in the video.So right off the bat, I do wanna point out that, again, this combo will only apply to the Super Duty truck owners out there who do have Ford's puck system installed, which, again, is part of the towing prep package. Without it, this setup will simply not work. Now, also, you wanna bear in mind, guys, that the site has this listed for the 6.75-foot bed owners out there as that's what the slider is really meant or designed for. Now, the purpose, of course, being the slightly smaller bedside Super Duties, you can essentially have the best of both worlds here with the slider in place, right? It's gonna locate the hitch just in front of that rear axle while towing straight for the most stability but will also allow that hitch to slide back 12 inches, windtight turns or maneuverability is required, and that's gonna help, obviously, prevent the trailer or camper from making contact with your cab. Now, as you guys can see, this is essentially 2 different products coming together to form a complete turnkey kit which is capable of installing easily and towing up to 16,000 pounds right out of the box.Now, the first part of this kit will be the CURT 24,000-pound roller system, which is item number 16020. Now, this part by itself is capable of supporting up to 24,000 pounds of gross trailer weight and is compatible with a lot of CURT's fifth wheel heads. However, I don't want you guys to get too hung up on those numbers because ultimately this package does include the A16 head which is the number you need to pay attention to the most and then, of course, is the 16,000-pound limit of the head itself. Now, even though the slider system over here can support 24,000 pounds, you are never to exceed the weight limit of your hitch or head. So just keep that in mind.Now, with that being said, this is great to point out, right? Because if you ever do need to up the capacity of the head, maybe you buy something a little bit bigger, you need to tow, well, you can certainly do that, right? And the slider will help you support something a little bit more hardcore, some of the other CURT options that we mentioned earlier. Now, as far as your construction and components are concerned, well, starting with the base or roller, you do have extremely burly steel. I'm talking 1/2-inch thick in parts here, finished off in a carbide black powder coat. The anchor system is a real highlight for me as this is basically going to allow you to easily drop the roller system into the puck system in your bed, but it will also allow you to easily and quickly remove it as well by just giving each anchor a quarter turn and thus unlocking or unlocking the roller in or out of those pucks. Granted, it's a little heavy, so you will need a friend helping you to lift it out of place, but it is possible to remove this thing in a matter of seconds if not a minute or two. Now, these anchors are also adjustable, by the way, which is gonna help eliminate any of that chucking noise between the roller system itself and the bed platform of your Super Duty.Of course, we mentioned the roller aspect with this thing several times already, but that's all made possible thanks to the non-binding rod and roller system that's going to allow you to easily move the head from the toe position all the way up front from the maneuver position in the rear here while being automatically locked in place thanks to the clever design of the included handle, which I will demonstrate after we get everything installed.Now, as for the head itself, well, also made from that same heavy-duty steel, finished in that same carbide black powder coat. And this is where the magic really happens, right? Now, don't get me wrong, the slider system is extremely awesome and very important part of the equation, but the head itself is really gonna help contribute to things like that smooth and quiet towing experience we mentioned earlier, but also things like an easy hookup, thanks to a couple of keys features. Now, the head itself does feature an articulating torsion head design with the cast steel, by the way, which will be key in helping to keep that noise and shock load to a minimum while also making for a very stable pool no matter what you're hauling. And I think that's one of the key takeaways when going with a 5th wheel like this.Now, inside the head, you're gonna find interlocking high-strength jaws that completely wrap around your trailer's kingpin, and that's also gonna be important when we're talking about reducing excess noise or chucking. Now, finally, guys, the head does include three adjustable height setups ranging from 17.5 inches out of the bed to 21.5 inches tall, and that's, of course, gonna help you work with different rig and trailer setups and, of course, different heights. Smaller but equally important features to note here include the extra-wide head opening for easy coupling along on the backside here, which we'll show you guys in a minute. There is a color-coded coupling indicator that basically allows you to easily see if you're locked in from the comfort of your driver's seat looking out of your rearview mirror. That's really cool. Now, the head can also easily be removed thanks to your simple one-pin design here in the middle. Basically yank the cotter pin, remove the pin itself, and you can lift the entire head out of the slider system. Now, you're also looking at things like a polyethylene lube plate to prevent the need for any messy grease. Last but not least, guys, the hitch does get backed by a limited lifetime warranty on basic materials, things like that, whereas your powder coat and also things like your individual parts are limited to a one-year warranty.But now we wanna show you just what it takes to get the 5th wheel slider set up in your Super Duty at home. And just be forewarned, guys, this thing is not light, not in the least. In fact, with everything here on the table, you're looking at just close to 300 pounds or so fully assembled. So make sure you have a buddy around to help you at least lift the slider portion in place, and at that point, you can then lift the head into the slider like we're about to show you. So why don't you come on out to the shop with me, let's walk you through the job and give you a quick tool breakdown?Tools used for this installation include a torque wrench, 15/16 wrench, 7/8 wrench, 13/16 wrench, 10-millimeter wrench, 3/8 ratchet, 13/16 socket, 10-millimeter socket, 6-millimeter Allen, 5-millimeter Allen, needle-nose pliers, and a flathead screwdriver. All right, guys, getting started here, we have our slider system laid out on the tailgate, that way once it's together, it's a short trip over to the puck system, and we wanna make sure that the driver's side rail here has the green sticker facing the cab. Once you have everything situated, we can start with our assembly. First step, we're gonna grab our locking handle system here, both sides of it along with the included spring and the bolt. Now, what you wanna do is grab the portion with the handle. Again, that's gonna be on your driver's side, fish it through the hole there. We'll see it come out the other side. This is where you wanna insert your spring.So now that we have our spring in place here, what we need to do is take the other portion of our handle. As you'll see, it's pointing to the handle side. We need to get that over the shaft and compress the spring enough to go ahead and get our bolt through that hole and secure it with our nyloc nuts. So this is a little tough, to compress the spring and put the bolt through all at once. So if you have another set of hands around, this would certainly be a good time to call them to action. Also, make sure that the keyed portion is facing down. That's very important in order for it to go through the other side. So let's give it a go. Once you finally get that bolt through, go ahead and grab your nyloc nut. We're gonna thread that into place and then secure it with our 10-millimeter socket and wrench. All right. Once we have our nyloc nut all tightened up, ready to go, the goal now is to insert the green keyed side through the other foot or leg, if you will, of the roller, and then what you wanna do is just see this little tiny green bit sticking out through the other side, that way you'll know she's fully seated. With our handle through the passenger side of the bracket, now we can grab our top cover here for the handle, and we're gonna get this in place. There are four bolt holes on either side that we're gonna be using these flathead Allen bolts. I'm gonna get those started by hand, snug them up, and then come back. We're gonna torque those later. And we're gonna do the same over here on the passenger side.Next up, we have our two brackets that are gonna go on the top and bottom here of the slider. We have your M14 by 25-mill bolts. I'm gonna start with the bottom side here. Get one in on each side, and that way we can kind of line everything up, finger-tight, and then we'll go back for the inner bolts. We are gonna come back with a torque wrench and torque these guys down to 100 foot-pounds. And just simply repeat that process here on the top side. Now, we're getting ready to actually lower the base or the slider portion into the puck system. So we're gonna prep ourselves here. We're gonna pop all the caps off on the four outermost caps. We're not gonna touch the center one because we're not doing a gooseneck trailer or anything like that. So we'll just leave that covered up, pop the caps here, and then at that point, we're almost ready to drop it in place. Small little flathead usually does the trick here. All right. And, obviously, we wanna put these somewhere safe and sound. We don't wanna lose these because if we ever do uninstall our 5th wheel, we can cover this up, prevent any dirt or water from getting in our puck system. So in our final preparation to dropping everything in, we need to prep our anchor systems. So we're gonna remove our pin. What we're gonna do is basically slide all of these out or swing these out. This is gonna be the position needed to drop them into the puck system, and then once they're in, we're just gonna reswing them back and then basically lock them in place. Do that on both sides, and we're almost ready to go. Same thing over here. Grab these and swing them out.Now's the point where we're gonna need to grab a buddy or somebody to help us lift this into place and set it in the pucks. All right. So now that our base or our slider is in the puck system, we're almost home free. Talking about these anchors earlier on, yes, they move very freely, but ideally, you'd want a little bit of drag on them so it kind of pulls it down into the puck system. So what we're gonna do is basically remove the cotter pin in those castle nuts and we're gonna tighten that down a little bit using our 15/16 wrench until there's enough drag on it that it feels good but can still close. We don't wanna tighten down those nuts and that's too much where we can actually rotate the handle and lock them into place. So we're gonna do it just enough so we have enough drag on there, and then we'll put the cotter pin back in and do that on all four sides. Straighten out your cotter pin here enough where we can pull it through. So then just grab the 15/16, just tighten this up just a smidge till we can feel a little bit of tension. There we go. Quarter-turn for good measure. See, that's almost too tight. We're gonna back it off a little bit. And that's perfect. Reinstall our cotter pin and repeat that on the next three castle nuts. All right. I'm really happy with the tension on our locks here or our anchor. So our final step just to make sure they don't go anywhere is to reinsert our pin through the handles through the slider base, and we're gonna make sure they're locked in. All right. Repeat that process on the other side.All right. Up next, we have our head here. We're gonna set it into our slider. And then there are four 14-millimeter bolts that we will install and torque to 100-foot pounds. But first things first, grab this. Careful, it is heavy. All right. So we're gonna install our 14-millimeter bolts now with the nut facing towards this little slot here. We can still hopefully get a torque wrench in the larger opening. I just need to pull up a little bit to get it through. And while it's started, grab your nyloc nut. Thread that on a little bit. We're pushing all way through. Now, for reference's sake, this is essentially the lowest the head can be. There is two additional settings for something a little higher. So this is kind of a trial and error type of portion of the install. But I would just recommend setting it on the lowest setting first and seeing how you line up before making any adjustments.All right. With all four bolts in, we're gonna go ahead and snug them up and then hit them with our torque wrench to 100 foot-pounds. Now, in order to make my life and your life a whole lot easier, you can actually remove the head itself in order to get a torque wrench down in there and do your business. All you need to do is simply remove this cotter pin with a big pin and then lift the head out of the assembly. You know, we're just snugging these up by hand first, and we're gonna go back and hit them with our torque wrench to 100 foot-pounds. All right. I'm not even gonna change that position. I'm just gonna grab my torque wrench. Next up, we're gonna do our four 14-mil bolts, again, also to 100 foot-pounds. Repeat this on the back and the front side. All right, guys. Now, we have our torque wrench we calibrated for 35 foot-pounds already, come back to our flathead cap screws right here, again, 35 foot-pounds for all four. With everything torqued down, we can go ahead and reinstall our head. Just slide it into position here. Reinstall our pin.All right, guys. We're just about home free here, but we still have one more thing to do, and that is install the handle on our head. In order to get started, we need to remove this pin first and get ready to slide the provided handle over the lever here. Now that we have our handle over the lever, kind of need to do a little dance here and hold the provided spring in the slot. Continue to slide the handle down, holding the spring in place until you can get the bolt down into one of the provided holes. So, obviously, it's a little tricky getting this in because it's supposed to live in front of that spring here or behind it as the instructions say, basically closest to the head itself. The bolts can live between where that spring slot is and the bolt hole here for the handle. I know it sounds confusing, but once you get it in person, you can actually eyeball it, it makes a lot more sense.Now, our next step is to get our second M8 bolt into this handle here as shown. Slide the handle back enough, and that should hold it in place. All right. So now that we have our two M8 bolts in position here, we have our included latch plate. We're gonna have the little slot kind of go underneath where the pin's gonna actually go through. And then our two M8 bolts, we're gonna basically thread into that location right there. So I'll kind of lift up a little bit, and this is gonna go underneath the bracket right here. And then we have our 5-mill Allen key. We're just gonna kind of start this. The instructions say to kind of alternate between each bolt as it draws it in. You don't wanna just basically fully tighten one because it'll kink this and tilt it out of position. Once you confirm that it's going in evenly, go ahead and do your final tighten-up with your ratchet and your 5-mill Allen.I can re-install our safety pin here. Handle installation is complete. In order to reposition from towing to maneuver, go ahead and pull out your handle and rotate it. That will allow you to slide it back. Put it back in towing position, pull out the handle and rotate, unlocking the roller, and slide it back into position. Now, to ensure that the handle is in the lock position, you should not be able to see any red line. However, if you wanted to see the red line such as this, then essentially your head is free to move around. So you wanna make sure this is in the lock position when you're ready to tow or to maneuver like so. Now, in order to prepare your head for coupling, basically what you need to do is remove your pin here. At this point, it'll allow you to pull the handle out and slide back. Be careful because this is spring-loaded. At this point, you are ready to couple. Now, coupling itself should lock the jaws around your kingpin. But if not, if you're ready to just do this by hand, simply repeat that process, pull out, and this takes some effort, so push forward to lock your jaws back into place. And secure them with your pin.Hey, we hope you enjoyed this review and install, and keep in mind, for more cool products and videos like this, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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