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RedRock Cold Air Intake (14-18 5.3L, 6.2L Silverado 1500)

Item S108267
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$154.99 (each)

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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Video Review & Installation

      What's up, ladies and gentlemen. Travis from And today, we're checking out what is currently the most affordable cold air intake that you can throw on your 2014 to 2018 5.3-liter powered Silverado. This is the SR Performance Cold Air Intake and this is a crowd favorite for a lot of different vehicles. Obviously, that big reason being that typically speaking, it's the most inexpensive intake that you can purchase. I'm also personally a fan of the way this intake looks. It has a pretty simple old school look, nice open element designs when you got the hood up. You can see this nice conical filter underneath and then we have a really nice polished intake tube with a really cool looking black powder coated heat shield. They do provide some nice weatherstripping on here. This thing's sized up pretty nicely, so it'll actually insulate that cold air in the filter as it goes to the intake manifold when you got the hood down and then when you got the hood up, we're getting rid of all that ugly plastic and that boring closed box design with that paper element filter in there.Now, cold air intakes like these are a popular first mod for a number of reasons. Obviously, number one, we already hit on. They're pretty inexpensive. Number two, obviously, is the performance aspect, right? This thing doesn't require a tune, but you're still gonna get some pretty decent horsepower and torque gains. Again, not anything too crazy, I would expect high single digit, maybe low double-digit gains, but you're typically gonna see those gains at the low end of the RPM band across your torque curve, and that's really nice because when you're cruising around at 1,500 to let's say 2,500 RPM, you wanna mash the pedal, have a little bit of fun, this cold air intake is gonna provide all the air that you need for a better throttle response. So, overall, your truck is gonna feel a little bit peppier without having to permanently modify anything.And that's another point here. This thing does not require any modification to the truck whatsoever. We're actually replacing our breather hoses, and that's pretty much it. Everything else stays the same. Factory MAF sensor connection here. We're even reusing all the holes on our a mounting area here for our factory airbox in order to get the heat shield in place, and that makes the install very straightforward. So, if you don't have a lot of experience turning wrenches and you wanna start modding your truck and squeeze out some power, this is a good first way to go about it. As far as how long it's gonna take, honestly, it shouldn't take you more than an hour or two, and for that reason, I'm gonna give the install a very easy one out of three wrenches on the old difficulty meter.Now, it goes without saying, if there's any other options that you might find on the site that are somehow gonna cost less than this one, chances are you're only gonna be getting a replacement tube itself or you're only gonna be getting a replacement filter, perhaps, with a box or without one. And then it goes without saying, obviously, the more expensive options are gonna have crazier designs, bigger tubes, they might require a tune, or they might be a bigger closed box design that kind of closely matches the factory intake. But I like the open element design because, overall, just looks cool, right? Has a very old school look to it.Now, being this is super affordable, is there anything wrong with it, right? Because compared to all the other options, it's very inexpensive, but generally speaking, this is one of the most affordable mods currently available for this truck. Comes in at around $120 price point, and honestly, guys, there's not really anything too bad for me to point out here. Obviously, it looks good, it performs just well. It fits quite nicely. The only small ding that I could talk about are the band clamps that they provide in the kit. The clamps are a little bit large, so you kind of have to zip them down all the way. You see we have some of these little tongues or whatever kind of sticking out. If you don't like that, honestly, takes a five-minute trip to the hardware store, pick up some new clamps. They're only a couple cents. You can actually get some pretty cool-looking ones. I've actually seen some anodized ones hanging out here and there, so if you wanna kind of color match your truck or throw some cool little accents under here. So, if you do wanna take the opportunity to switch out these clamps for some that look a little bit cooler, this is a good way to go about it. But obviously, it's gonna function just fine, and really if you wanted to, you could probably take a pair of snips, cut the excess off, and they'll be nice and flush.So, again, super affordable, functional, looks good. You're gonna get some performance gains with this intake. You're not spending a lot of money at all. So, take a little bit more time to think about it. Check it out a little bit more on the site. If you like this option, you wanna stick with it, I'm actually gonna show you guys how to get this thing bolted in in just a minute. Only takes a couple of hand tools. So, without further ado, let's go ahead and get started.So, like I said, installing this intake is very simple, guys. All you really need is a standard drive ratchet with an 8 and a 10-millimeter socket. They can be shallow or deep, but some of the fittings are kind of recessed, so deep sockets might work well. You will need one specialty tool. It's a T15 Torx bit, can pick it up at your local hardware store, and a couple of screwdrivers, both a Phillips and a flathead. And these are optional tools. I could recommend an extension, again, to help with fasteners and an impact gun with a swivel socket will make the install a lot easier.Okay. Once you have your tools out, you'll need to grab that 8-mil socket. We're gonna loosen up the band clamp, securing the factory intake tube to our airbox. We can pull them out separately, but I like to do electrical connections first, just so they don't get caught up in anything. So go ahead and disconnect the MAF sensor by pulling up on that red tab. And then all you got to do is press on the locking tab underneath in order to unseat it. Go ahead and tuck this out of the way somewhere where it's not gonna get hung up on anything. And once you've done that, you can grab your 8-mil socket. I like to use an extension for clearance. Go ahead and move these coolant lines to the side and loosen up this clamp here.All right. Next, we're almost ready to remove the factory intake tube and this big old resonator box, but we have to disconnect our breather hoses for our crankcase ventilation. You got one hose on either head securing to the end of the box right here. You can see this little gray tab, that's the locking tab, so you got to push up on it from the bottom. And as you're pushing up, just pull it to slide off. And then we're actually gonna be replacing these breather hoses, so you can actually pull it off of the head. It's the same connection down here, just squeeze it in order to separate it. And we're gonna do the same thing on the other side here. For the passenger side, the locking tabs are kind of reversed. You actually have to push down on it instead of pulling up. And then go ahead and pop it off the head as well.Okay, now we can finally disconnect the throttle body clamp here. Again, 8-mil socket, go ahead and loosen him up. Once you've loosened that clamp up, you can gently pull on the factory airbox here/tube assembly in order to unseat it from the throttle body. All right, once you have the factory air tube and resonator box removed, can also remove the factory airbox. Just make sure you pull these coolant lines away from it. Gently pull it up to remove it. It might be held in place with some rubber grommets on the bottom. And we also have a Christmas tree fitting here. Plastic fitting for our MAF sensor. Make sure you pop that out of there as well. But like I was saying, once I get this outta here, you have some fittings on the bottom here. These are pressed into this plate at the bottom. You just kinda have to gently apply some pressure to pop them out of there.Okay. We have to do a little bit more work here in the engine bay before we start installing our new intake. Our new heat shield's gonna interfere with this little support brace, so we're gonna loosen that up and swing it out of the way. You got to remove this 10-mil bolt on the inside of the fender here. Once you remove that bolt, this brace might have a little bit of tension to it because the other bolt's securing it, but you should be able to just kind of push on this in order to get it out of the way. Once you've done that, we're gonna be removing our mounting tray as well because our new heat shield's gonna take up that spot. You're gonna be using the same 10-mil socket to remove these 4 bolts down here, securing it. Okay, now we're gonna remove our mounting tray here. It's held in place with four 10-mil bolts. Go ahead and pop all those out. It's helpful to have an extension. We are gonna be reusing some of these bolts, so make sure you don't discard them.All right. We got our factory intake system removed, got them here on the table real quick. You guys can get a nice comparison between the two and obviously, it goes without saying, you can see how much more clean the new SR Performance system is. We're ditching all this ugly plastic, this really weird, crazy-looking box thing. Got nice free-flowing intake tube made out of polished aluminum. This is gonna look pretty good for years to come. Before we do anything, though, we do have to swap out our MAF sensor. Our MAF sensor is held into our factory airbox with some Torx screws. We need a T15 Torx bit in order to remove the MAF sensor.And once you have your MAF sensor removed, this is the only thing that we're gonna need off of our factory intake system. Let's go ahead and set the MAF sensor aside and we can finally ditch this old and busted intake. Okay, we're gonna go ahead and install the MAF sensor into our new intake tube and thankfully, they do provide us with new Phillips head screws, so you can ditch those annoying Torx head screws. The sensor is only gonna fit in the intake tube in one way. So, you can see here, this is the correct way. If you have the intake laying on the table like me, want the connection pointing down and away from you. Just to show you guys, if you do try and put it in the wrong way, the holes will not line up. So, go ahead and get them seated. Get both of the screws hand threaded. We are threading into aluminum. These are pretty fine threads, so really just take your time with this. Don't need any power tools for this one. Get the other one in first. You wanna kinda tighten these down in sequence. If you try and tighten down one side fully all the way and then do the other side, you could risk actually bending or cracking the sensor itself and you could actually end up with some unmetered air getting into your intake tube. So, just go ahead and tighten them in sequence on either side.Okay. We got the intake tube taken care of. You can set him aside. Now we're gonna assemble our heat shield here. You got two pieces that are gonna connect together at three points. Got some predrilled holes here. And they provide these Allen head screws in the kit here with the appropriately sized Allen key as well. Let's go ahead and get these in there. You're gonna need these flat washers as well. Gonna kinda holding this thing in place. We're just gonna get all three screws and nuts hand tightened and then will drive them home with the Allen key. And you'll need to use your 8-mil socket that we've been using for our band clamps to tighten all this down as well. And see once you have all three screws in place, this thing should pretty much hold itself together so you can have your hands free.Okay. Once you have all three hand tightened, just hold the back of those screws with the Allen key go ahead and drive all three of them. You don't need to put a ton of torque on these things. I'm on my lowest setting right now. And once we have all these driven home, you can grab the weatherstripping provided in the kit. Go ahead and unroll that. And we'll install our weatherstripping next.All right, so once you got that unfurled, it's kind of helpful to kind of wrap it around the other way because there's a bunch of little metal tabs in here that kinda bent up, just kinda roll it out, get it kind of worked out so it's straight. You're gonna be rolling this weatherstripping around the top edge all the way from one bracket to the other. You shouldn't have to trim this at all.All right, we're almost ready to install our heat shield. All we need to do now is install this plastic adapter in order to seat our intake on there, our actual filter, if you will. In order to secure this guy to the airbox, you're gonna be grabbing one of the rubber couplers, placing it on the outside. Also, grab one of the appropriate sized band clamps and tighten all this stuff down together. Make sure you're holding the entire assembly together as one piece and you'll be using your same 8-mil socket. I like to try and push the band clamp up as close to the heat shield as possible while I do this.Okay, so when we go to throw our heat shield in place, we're gonna be reusing three of those four mounting points for the factory tray for our factory airbox. You could see the mounting locations with these predrilled oval holes on the heat shield. Let's go ahead and line those holes up by getting this thing in place first. And remember the support thing has to be out of the way as well for clearance here. It's a little bit of a squeeze, you kinda wanna bend in a little bit on the heat shield until you get it seated and lined up and then get all three bolts hand tightened and then we'll drive them home using our 10-mil socket. Once all three in place, you can go ahead and drive them home. You can see what a tight fit here this is doing this with an impact gun, so it's helpful to have a swivel socket like I have.Now that our heat shield's in place, we can install our air filter. You need to make sure you got the large band clamp on there. Go ahead and push it straight down, orient it the right way by getting it sideways. Make sure that the rubber portion of the air filter is seated on the plastic coupler. You wanna push the band clamp up all the way against the heat shield, hand tighten it down with your 8-mil socket.Okay. We're almost ready to install our new intake tube, but before we do that, we have all this nice open space to work with. So, we're gonna install our new breather hoses. They provide really small band clamps. Unfortunately, the fastener's rounded out so you can't use any sockets, you'll need a flathead screwdriver to tighten these down. But at any rate, the small tube is gonna go on the passenger side and the long tube goes on the driver side. Wanna kinda hold this in place as you're tightening this fastener down as well. And while we're doing this, something else to note. These tubes kinda have a natural bend in them and they are pretty stiff, so I like to orient them where the bend naturally wants to go because it's gonna end up connecting to our intake tube right about here. And we'll go ahead and do the same thing for the other side with our longer breather hose. These fasteners could be a little bit of a pain as you tighten them down just because of how small they are, so you wanna kinda hold the clamp with your finger, keep it in place. Just do small quarter turns until you get it tight.All right. We have both of our breather hoses in place. Now we can finally install our new intake tube. Before you do so, you wanna make sure you have the rubber elbow to adapt it to the throttle body. And this is also a good time to point out that small little issue I mentioned earlier with some of the band clamps being a little bit oversized. They should tighten up just enough as long as you zip them down all the way. You might wanna cut off the excess here, just looks a little nasty. Honestly, guys, you can pick up new band clamps at the hardware store for couple of cents a piece, so now would be the time to replace those if you want to. But let's go ahead and get this guy seated. The first thing you wanna do is actually slide it into the airbox side rubber coupler that we installed on the heat shield earlier. You just wanna kind of squeeze him into that coupler until the elbow lines up with the throttle body. You might have to make some final adjustments to all this stuff before you tighten it down. Make sure it's flush all the way and then go ahead and tighten down the clamp on the throttle body followed by the clamp on the airbox side. Again, 8-mil socket for all this stuff. And go ahead and tighten down the clamp on the airbox side as well.And then the last thing we need to do is reconnect our MAF sensor and plug in both of our breather hoses. Make sure you push down the red locking tab in order to make sure it's seated. Like I said, go ahead and get these breather hoses in place. Make sure you got those clamps on the end there as well for it And, again, tighten these down with a flathead screwdriver.All right, ladies and gentlemen. Our intake is successfully installed. One thing, make sure you reinstall your support brace here on the inside of the fender. So go ahead and grab one of those remaining 10-mil bolts that we removed earlier and drive him home, and that should wrap it up for us today.That'll wrap up this quick little install. That'll also wrap up my review. And for all things Chevy and GMC, keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Improves Airflow for More Power
      • Increases Throttle Response and Performance
      • Polished Aluminum Intake Tube
      • Reusable High Flow Air Filter
      • Simple Bolt-On Installation
      • No Computer Re-Tune Required
      • Not CARB Certified
      • Fits 2014-2018 5.3L and 6.2L V8 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Models


      More Air for More Power. A RedRock 4x4 Cold Air Intake is a great way to improve the overall performance of your 2014-2018 V8 powered Chevrolet Silverado 1500. You will see and feel a noticeable increase in horsepower and torque just by replacing your Silverado's restrictive stock intake with a RedRock 4x4 high flow filter assembly. This RedRock 4x4 Intake not only improves airflow for an increase in power, but it will also add a show winning appearance to the engine bay with its brightly polished aluminum intake tube.

      No Tune Required. RedRock 4x4 engineered their Cold Air Intake to improve the performance of your Silverado without the need of reprogramming the computer. By utilizing flow dynamics, this Intake will increase power using the original factory tune. Even though a re-tune is not required for operation, AmericanTrucks recommends a custom tune to reprogram the vehicles computer (ECU) to get the best possible performance from this Cold Air Intake.

      Reusable Air Filter. The included high flow air filter effectively filters out power robbing particles with its multi layer design. The specially treated media creates a sticky surface to capture microscopic contaminants before they can enter your Silverado's engine and do harm. Seeing that the filter is reusable there is no need to buy a new filter every few thousand miles. You can just clean the filter, re-oil it, and reinstall - saving yourself money in the long haul.

      Simple Bolt-on Installation. RedRock 4x4 designed their Cold Air Intake kit to be a direct bolt-on replacement. With no special tools or extra modifications required installation can be completed in under an hour. All parts and detailed instructions are included.

      Not CARB Certified. This RedRock 4x4 Cold Air Intake is not CARB certified, therefore it is not legal for use in California or other states adopting California emission standards. Not legal for use on pollution controlled motor vehicles; intended for off road use only.

      Application. This RedRock 4x4 Cold Air Intake System is specifically designed to fit the 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models equipped with the naturally aspirated 5.3L and 6.2L V8 engine.

      RedRock 4x4

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      RedRock S108267

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Intake Tube
      • (1) Heat Shield
      • (1) Air Filter
      • (5) Clamps
      • (2) Couplers
      • (1) Reducer
      • Installation Hardware

      Customer Reviews (500+)

        Questions & Answers

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        Will It Fit My Silverado 1500

        • 5.3L V8 - 14, 15, 16, 17, 18
        • 6.2L V8 - 14, 15, 16, 17, 18

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