(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Hey, guys. Adam here with americantrucks.com. And today, we're taking a quick look at and, of course, installing the RedRock 4 by 4 Cold Air Intake available for the '04 to '08 F-150 with a 5.4 Triton. You should be checking this out for your own 5.4 if you're looking to ditch the factory very restrictive airbox to replace it with a cold air intake that's not only going to filter out more of the particles that you don't want making its way into your engine, but it's also going to bring intake temperatures down, allowing you to get a little bit of a bump in horsepower and torque along with throttle response and acceleration. Now, this particular one is a great option for the guys looking for one of the more affordable options in the category. There are a ton of cold air intakes for your 5.4. Some of them are a little bit more premium with a lot of bells and whistles. This guy here is keeping the budget down while still giving you a really high-quality filter. Now, the filter you'll see inside of this airbox here is a black conical cotton gauze filter that's oiled. Now, it's washable and reusable, so the guys who want to spend a little bit less time worrying about their filter condition can relax a little bit more when it comes time to routine maintenance. Now, when it does come time to clean it, you can pop it off, wash it, re-oil it easily with oil that you find at your local auto parts store, throw it right back in, and it's as good as new.Now, oil versus dry is something that you'll see a lot online. It's a debate that's gone back and forth for years and years. And ultimately, it comes down to what you're looking for. An oil filter is typically a best of both worlds type of option. You get really good airflow. It's going to pull in a lot of cold air and the oil helps filter out a lot more particles down to a really small micro size. Now, that means that guys located in a dry weather climate area seeing a lot of air pollution might have to clean it off a little bit more often than guys not in those kind of areas. In which case, a dry filter might be a little bit less maintenance for you, but they don't typically last as long as oil. So, the debate goes back and forth. It's really a personal question, which one are you looking for? This one is oiled, really easy to use, really easy to clean. The rest of the tubing is completely aluminum tubing and the heat shield itself. Heat shield's black. This lid here does come off pretty easy, so when it comes time for routine maintenance, there's four bolts, one on each corner, pop the lid off, and you can easily take the filter out. The tubing is a little bit larger of a diameter than your factory tubing. The factory tubing is crazy. It's a huge shape. It has a lot of different reservoirs on it. This one's pretty straightforward, just a simple tube. The little bit larger diameter is going to help with volume of airflow going straight to the throttle body, not a whole lot of nooks and crannies for it to go through like the factory one, so it's less restrictive.It does not require a tune, which is a huge bonus for guys looking for an intake. They can just bolt up right out of the box. Because it doesn't require a tune, we're not scrapping it down to the dyno today, but do know that it will bump some horsepower and torque numbers up. Pricing is going to come in right around 100 bucks, making it again, a really affordable option in the category. Install, one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anybody can tackle this with about an hour, maybe two from start to finish, depending on your experience. Very simple hand tools will get the job done. There's a lot of little nuts and bolts included in the kit. So, it's a little bit of a lengthier assembly than some of the more premium options, but still very simple to do. I'm going to show you every step of the process. Let's get started. Tools used in this install include an impact gun, 8 and 10-millimeter wrenches, Phillips head screwdriver, extension, couple of ratchets, 8, 10, 13-millimeter deep sockets, T20 Torx bit, and wire cutters. All right, first step here, we're going to go back to our 5.4 right on top of the airbox here. You'll see me have a breather hose on the left and our MAF sensor on the right. So, for the breather hose, you're just going to pull down on this green locking tab and pull that hose off. For the MAF sensor, lift up on the red locking tab, pinch, and disconnect.All right, next up, we're gonna switch over to our impact gun, an extension, and a deep 10-millimeter socket. We're gonna remove the bolts holding on the airbox here. Now, there are two on each side of the airbox and there's one on the tubing down here. So, let's focus on these guys first. All right. Same thing on the other side. Now, we have a regular bolt here, at one point or another, ours was replaced. So, you should probably have those tall studs here as well, but just get both of those guys off. Switching over to a ratchet just because the firewall being there prevents an impact to going to get on there. Next up, we're going to remove our tubing here. Now, basically, just going to lift up and disconnect it from your airbox, just like that, and pull it out of the firewall. All right. Now you can set it aside. All right. Next, you should just be able to lift up on this guy and set that aside as well. All right. So, we got our factory intake off of our '07 F-150 behind me and it's on the table next to our new RedRock 4 by 4 Cold Air Intake. I want to take you through some similarities and differences between the two kits. And the first thing I want to talk about here is our filter. As you can see, I took apart the top end of our cold air intake from the factory to expose that drop-in paper element dry filter.Now, this guy is pretty good at filtering out all the particles you don't want getting into your engine, but at the end of the day, it's not optimized for bringing in the most cold air to drop your intake temperatures. Now, when you switch over to an aftermarket intake like this one here, the RedRock is going to include a cotton gauze element filter here. Now, this conical filter is going to do a whole lot better job pulling in more cold air, dropping your intake temperatures is going to go a long way to pulling out all the power potential you have packed into your 5.4 Triton. Now, this guy is an oiled filter, which means it's washable and reusable. So, every time it comes time for routine maintenance, pop this guy out, wash it, re-oil it, and throw it right back in. Typically, these guys can last between 50,000 to 100,000 miles, depending on how you're driving. Now, if you're located in some dry weather climate areas seeing a lot of air pollution, you might have to re-oil it and wash it out a little bit more often than not, but still, a great way to filter out all the particles you don't want getting in. Now, the rest of the system here, as you can see is a complete change-up from your factory one.This thing here from the factory, looks like an elephant trunk. It's huge. It's got a ton of resonators on it. It's not going to be great for optimizing airflow. You're going to get a little bit more volume with your new RedRock 4 by 4 aluminum tubing, slightly larger diameter, and not as many kinks slowing up your airflow. Now, even though this is a little bit larger of a diameter, this is not going to require a retune, right out of the box, it's ready to bolt up. Now, the rest of the kit here includes an aluminum airbox. A little bit different than your factory one. The factory one was a completely enclosed airbox. This is going to be a little bit more open, but it does include weatherstripping here to seal up under the hood, pushing out all of the engine bay heat, and keeping in the cold air. We're going to have to transfer over our factory MAF sensor to the new kit and assemble that airbox before we get under the hood, so let's get started. All right. Now, the only thing we really have to take off of our factory intake here is our MAF sensor, the mass airflow sensor. Grab a T20 Torx bit and remove the two factory screws here. Now, the screws you won't be needing, but it's recommended that you keep them just in case you ever want to go back to stock because the new screws are a little bit different.All right. Carefully, just slide this guy straight back. Try not to make any contact with the sensor portion itself. Set that down and set your factory box aside. All right. So, out of the box, the new port is welded onto your tubing, and you'll see that there are two Phillips head screws already installed into those slots. So, just pull those guys off. For the MAF sensor, you're just going to slide this guy in, the holes should line up only one way. So, if they're not lining up, just flip it around. So, as you can see, these don't. I'm just gonna rotate it, slide it back in, and now they match up. Grab the Phillips head screws and put them through. Grab a Phillips head screwdriver and tighten them down. All right. For the next step, we're going to start assembling our airbox. Now, the box itself comes in four different pieces. So, you have to play a little bit of a puzzle set here. Now, the open circle is where the tubing and the filter will go through. I'm going to put up one of our walls next and they connect just like this. You'll see that this lip is going to go on the back here. From there. You want to take the little hex screws included in the kit and the flat washers. I'm going to put the bolt heads through the back, follow it up with another flat washer on this side, and then finally, with the nylon lock nut. Now, there's a bunch of little hardware that you're going to have to use for this guy. So, I'm just going to insert all of the bolts and nuts first on this particular panel, and then we're going to go back and tighten them down.All right. So, now, I'm just going to put the bottom ones through. All right. Now, it's up to you if you want to put the rest of panels on first. I'm gonna tighten these guys down and then we'll move on. All right. For this, I'm going to turn this guy up on its side, just to make it easier to access the bolt head and the nut. I'm going to use an 8-millimeter wrench on the bottom here on the inside and a little Allen key for the bolt head. All right. Do the same thing for all four. All right. Back to the position we had it in initially, we're going to just basically do the same thing for the other wall. Now, this one just has a little tab. You want to make sure that's facing down on the table, link those two up together, grab your bolts, and do the same thing. All right. Now you can tighten them down.All right. Next up, we're going to install our rubber liner. Now, the rubber liner is going to be strategically placed somewhere along this tubing here, where the tubing and the filter will come through and the sides where it'll contact inside the engine bay. That's going to help us seal in the cold air and block out the engine bay heat. So, you wanna grab this and it is all one piece, so we're going to have to cut it to size. I'm going to basically start here and just feed it through. And then when we get to the end, I'll cut it off with some wire cutters. All right. So, once we get to the end, just grab your cutters or your scissors, or even just a pocket knife will do the trick, and just cut that guy off. All right. Now, you can do the same thing to the two outer edges. All right. Now, directly under this U-shape here on our heat shield, there's an open hole. Grab the rubber vibration mount, and you're gonna put one of the studs through, this is going to help reduce any of the NVH or noise, vibration, and harshness with this guy installed. Put one of the flat washers over it along with a 13-millimeter nut, grab a ratchet and a socket and tighten that down.All right. The next step may look a little confusing on paper, but it's actually pretty simple. This little bolt plate here, this washer, this thick metal washer is basically going to sandwich this metal piece on your fender. So, you're going to basically take it apart. This top portion, I'm gonna set aside for a second. One of these hex bolts included in the kit, I'm going to put up through the bottom, just like that. And that's going to go underneath here. On top of this, I'm going to take that top hat, slide that guy on, and it fits perfectly right into that hole. Grab one of the hex nuts included in the kit, not one of the nylon lock nuts, just the hex nuts, just thread that guy all the way down. So, that stud is now gonna come through the new airbox that we're going to install right here, and a nut will go on top of that stud. So, that's how it's going to attach to the frame here. Now, we're gonna do the same thing to this hole and then tighten these two nuts down and then move on. All right. So, now, I'm going to take a 10-millimeter wrench and I'm gonna hold the bolt head on the bottom and a 10 socket and tighten down that top knot.All right. Next up, we're going to drop our airbox in place. And these two holes here are going to line up to those two studs. Now, we can grab some of the nuts included in the kit and tighten them down to those studs. Next, I'm going to drop one of these larger flat washers on each of the studs. Follow it up with a nut included in the kit, and we'll tighten those down with our 10 socket. All right. So, now that's secure. All right. Next step, we're going to install our elbow or the coupler here on top of our throttle body. Grab the smaller clamp included in the kit and put it over the smaller end. This hose fitting you want facing the passenger side. All right. So, now, you can pop this guy on the throttle body. Once you have that seated all the way, what you want to do is make sure that the clamp is rotated so it's in the front. We're going to do that again. And now, you can tighten down this clamp with an 8-millimeter socket. All right. So, you just want to make sure that coupler is straightforward. You can use an 8-millimeter socket or a flat-head screwdriver to tighten down the clamp. Next up, we're going to install our clamp over that coupler there, just like that. Grab the tubing, and you're gonna insert the long, straight section right into that throttle body elbow that we installed. The other section is going to drop into our airbox.On the other side, you may need to move this reservoir out of the way, the steering fluid. Drop that guy on. The little fork welded onto the bottom of the tubing will drop on to the vibration bracket. All right. So, now, that you can see the fork is sitting on that vibration bracket, slide on one of the flat washers, and then follow it up with a nylon lock nut. Now, you can tighten that down. All right. Grab your 13 socket and tighten that guy down. So, put your clamp in place on the throttle body elbow coupler, and tighten it down with your 8 socket or flat-head. All right. Next up, we're going to put on our mass airflow sensor sleeve. This plastic piece is going to insert into the tubing here where the filter will be. This slit is going to go right around the MAF sensor. So, you want to line that up, slide that guy right in place. All right. Next up, we're going to install our filter. Put one of the clamps over the filter there. Find that metal sleeve in the filter material that's going to be facing down. Drop it into your airbox and slide it over the tubing where you just put your MAF sleeve. All right. Once you have that in place, tighten down your clamp.All right. Next step is a little bit difficult. You're a mass airflow sensor has been relocated between the airbox and your power steering reservoir. So, it's really tight in here, but we have to plug that guy in. So, I'm just gonna feed this harness in between. You're gonna have to pull a little bit on the bracket to get this harness to line up to click it in place on the sensor. And once you to have that clicked on, drop down your locking tab. Next up, grab your breather line and connect it to the new fitting. The last step of the process, grab the lid for the airbox. Let's close that guy up. It's a little bit tapered, so the shorter end here is going to be on your driver's side. Grab the bolts included in the kit. There's a threaded on nut welded to the sides, so we're just gonna, you know, tighten it down. All right. Grab your 10-millimeter socket and tighten these guys down. All right. With that last one tightened down, you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the RedRock 4 by 4 Cold Air Intake available for the '04 to '08 F-150 with the 5.4 Triton. You can get yours right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Cold Air Intake Type||Cold Air Intake|
|Tuning Requirements||No Tune Required|
|Cold Air Intake Tube Material||Aluminum|
|Cold Air Intake Filter Type||Oiled|
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(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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