(approx) a Day
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
Today I'm gonna be installing Rough Country's four-inch suspension lift kit on our 2012 F-150. This Rough Country kit is for the owner that wants to go from their stock ride height to a more extreme lifted option that's gonna allow you to fit up to 35-inch tires. It's gonna make you more capable off-road with that ground clearance and it's also gonna remove that factory rake stance that not many people are fond of. All of the hardware is designed to meet or exceed OEM standards. Rough Country includes a set of rear shock absorbers that are gonna provide better control on-road as well as comfort when you're driving over obstacles on the trails. Just under 950 bucks is a great price for a lift kit of this type. Most of our other lifts of this size start at $1000 and they go up from there. All of the hardware is included to make this install as easy as possible. But I'm gonna be giving this two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It's just a little bit more involved than a typical lift kit so expect about a full day's work. With that being said, let's get started with the install. Now with the truck in the air or on jack and jack stands, we took our tires off. And our first step is gonna be to remove the skid plate with our 13-millimeter socket. Now with our skid plate removed, we have access to our two plugs for our electric power assisting steering. You just have to pull back the red tabs and then pull out the plugs. With our electronic power steering unplugged, we're gonna remove the tie rod end with a 21-millimeter socket. With our nut off, we're gonna take a hammer and we're gonna separate. And now we're gonna unbolt the brackets for our lines. So there's a 10-millimeter and an 8-millimeter. Next, we're gonna move the vacuum line from the hub. Just grab and then pull out. Now we're gonna move the bolts here and here, 21-millimeter socket to remove the caliper from the hub. Take your caliper. Now with our caliper gone, we could pull off our rotor and then we're gonna move the dust shield underneath. We're gonna remove these bolts with an 8-millimeter socket. Now we're gonna take out the ABS wire with a 5-millimeter Allen key. And now you're just gonna remove the cap. You could take some pliers, just wiggle it a little bit and they'll come right out. Now you have access to our nut. We're gonna use a 13-millimeter socket to remove this nut. Retain hardware for later use. Now we're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to remove the upper ball joint. Knock it loose with the hammer. Now with it loose, I'm gonna take my pry bar, relieve some of the pressure, and then we're gonna be able to take off our nut and then slowly release the upper control arm. Now we're gonna move the lower ball joint with our 24-millimeter socket. And now we can take the hub and the knuckle off the truck. So now I'm taking it off just...We're gonna use an 18-millimeter socket to remove our sway bar bolt. Now we're gonna remove the lower strut bolt with a 30-millimeter socket and then a 27 on the other side. Now it's time to remove your strut. You push down. Now with the strut out of the driver's side, we're gonna complete the same steps for the passenger's and remove that strut. We're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket to remove the 4 bolts that are holding the sway bar. Now we can remove the control arms with a 27 and a 21-millimeter socket. And now to remove the driveshaft, we're gonna use our 10-millimeter socket. Now with your bolts loose, we could separate the driveshaft. And you're gonna just wanna remove it out of the way. Now we're gonna remove the crossmember under the differential. You're gonna use a 15-millimeter wrench and an 18-millimeter socket. The next step of our instructions was to cut the crossmember bracket, but it's gonna be a little hard to make an accurate cut so we're gonna remove the differential first. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket on the back end and then we have some other bolts to take off. So before you take out your last bolt, make sure you support your diff so that it's easier to take out. We're gonna remove our last 21-millimeter bolt right here. With the diff supported, we're gonna take out our last bolt. It's very helpful to have a friend because it is a little awkward to take out. In your instructions are two templates you're gonna cut out. We're gonna use these for the crossmember bracket to trim. With our templates on and marked on our bracket, it's time to take our cutoff wheel and make some cuts. With your cuts made, you can now remove the part of your bracket. With our bracket cut, we're gonna place our template back on. Line up the holes so that we can mark off our drilling [inaudible 00:13:28]. So we have a marker for our drill. I'm just gonna punch to make a mark. And now with your holes marked, you could start your drilling. With our pilot hole drilled, we're gonna finish it off with our five-eighths drill bit. So the directions state to put the brackets up first and then the differential. I'm gonna put the brackets on first. It's gonna be a little bit easier to swing up the diff and bolt it to the truck. You're gonna use the supplied bolts, washers, and nuts. Just hand tighten it because we're gonna have to adjust everything. Now that you have your brackets on, with the help of a friend, we're gonna lift it up. With our diff in place, we're gonna put our hose back onto the nipple. We're now gonna install the rear crossmember with the included hardware and the drop brackets to the stock location. You wanna place the bolt through. For your rear crossmember, we're gonna put in the stock bolts here and here for our bracket on the other side. So now we're gonna take the two stock flag bolts and we're gonna put them through the frame into our brackets so that they'll stay in place when we're tightening the differential. And we're gonna do it for the other side. And now we can tighten up the differential using an assortment of sockets, 21, 22, and 18. Now we're gonna install our front crossmember into the location of our stock crossmember. We're gonna use our stock bolts and nuts. Now with the front crossmember in, we can reinstall the lower control arm. You're gonna use the supplied cam bolts. And then for the passenger side, you're gonna do the same thing for the lower control arm. Now you can install your included skid plate. You're gonna use the included bolts in the threaded holes on the crossmembers that we just installed. And then now we're gonna tighten it with a 14-millimeter socket. Now you're ready to tighten up all of your upper crossmember bolts with your socket and wrench. You can now use your 15-millimeter wrench to snug up these sway bar brackets. Now that everything's tight, we can install our driveshaft spacer. We're gonna remove our old bolts because we're included longer bolts and we're gonna tighten them with an 8-millimeter Allen key. Now you're gonna put your spacer and we're gonna put our new included bolts through. A good idea is to put a little bit of Loctite on each of the bolts before putting them in. Now with your spacer and your bolts in, we're just gonna move our driveshaft in position and then we're gonna hand tighten it before tightening it. So now that we have our bolts hand tightened, we're gonna torque them down to 41 foot-pounds. To accommodate our new lift, I'm gonna remove the brake line bracket so that we can drop it down with the included bracket. We're gonna be using a 10-millimeter socket. We're gonna move on to the other side. Now we're gonna install the bracket that was included with the stock hardware. Now that we have our bracket installed, we can take our brake line, you're gonna move it down and then we're gonna use the included bolt, nut, and washer to attach. And then we're gonna do the same steps for the other side. Stock hardware. We're gonna install our bracket and then we're gonna pull down on our brake line and install it to the bracket. So you're gonna need to pull down on your metal brake line. Just be careful. You just need a little bit of extra slack so that we can get this in here and then you're just gonna make sure that your lines up here are free and you're not gonna do any damage. But just like the other side, put this in. So now we have to install to our studs into our strut spacer. You're gonna use the side with the smaller holes. So you're gonna push the stud through the smaller hole. Use an enlarged nut. And then we're gonna use the right side 17-millimeter nut and we're gonna screw it on top. We're gonna tighten it and it's gonna push the stud through and then we're gonna take the nuts off and then just loosen the nut and you have a stud. Now that we have our three studs, do the same thing for the other strut spacer. Make sure to hold on to the struts first. Now we're gonna take our strut spacer, put it right on top of our strut, and then we're gonna use the stock nuts that we took off to secure it to our strut. And then we're gonna take our 14-millimeter and tighten it back up. Same as the other side. Spacer on top of strut, use stock nuts to tighten. And just to be extra sure your nuts are tight, you can put a crowbar in the strut spacer and then use that as some leverage. Make sure everything's nice and tight. Now that our strut is ready, we're gonna put it up into our strut tower. We're gonna use the included lock washers, washers, and nuts. Now with our strut loosely in place, we're gonna lift up on the lower control arm and we're gonna use the stock hardware to bolt up. With your lower strut bolt tightened, it's time to tighten up the top three. And then we're gonna complete the same steps for the other side. So now we're ready to put our sway bar back. We're gonna loosely hang it up and then we're gonna swing up and tighten it into place. So you just wanna put it right here on there, loosely put your nut on and let your bar hang. Pop that on and loosely put your stock nut back on. Now with our sway bar hanging, we're gonna push it up onto our bracket and we're gonna use the included nuts, washers, and bolts to hang it up. So I'm just gonna push it up into position, put a bolt through, washer, and a nut. Now with everything in place, we're gonna use a 14-millimeter wrench to tighten it up. Okay, move on to the other side. So now we have both knuckles on the table. We're gonna move over the hub from the old one to our new one. And if you notice while they're on the table, this is painted black for corrosion resistance. You see we have a rusty one here, but it's also longer. It's gonna accommodate for our lift. So now let's get it. Our first step is gonna be to remove these 8-millimeter bolts here and then we're gonna remove the 18-millimeter bolts after. And just carefully lift up. Now, take your 18-millimeter. Now with our bolts out, we can lift up and separate the hub from the knuckle. If it doesn't separate, you can get a hammer, a chisel, an air chisel and basically just separate the two pieces. Now we're gonna move it over. With the bottom part in, reinsert your stock bolts. So you wanna make sure your vacuum fitting's at the top and that your gears are aligned. You can move it so that you can make sure everything is good. Just a little adjustment, place it in, and reinstall with our stock bolts. And now we're gonna complete the same steps for the other side, 8-millimeter. With your four-wheel drive assembly apart, this is a good opportunity to take out any of the rust flakes or any excess dirt that you see in here before you put it back together. Like before, separate. And then this seal around the edge, it's a good idea to clean this up. So you're gonna want to position your ABS at the top along with the knuckle. And then put your stock bolts through. And then again, position this at the top and get your gears to match up. Now that we have our hub and our knuckle assembled, we're gonna install it with the lower ball joint first then we're gonna put our half shafts through and then our upper ball joint. Push back on the half shaft. Don't damage anything. Then now angle it so you can get your top ball joint in and then end nut. We're gonna tighten up the upper ball joint. We're just applying some pressure so that the nut will spin. Now you wanna make sure that your axle is fully seated in the hub. When you spin it, you'll see that your axle spins with your wheel hub. So now that it's fully seated, you're gonna put your nut on it and you'll hand tighten it and then you're gonna use your ratchet. Snug it up. Now that it's tight, we're gonna use our torque wrench and we're gonna torque it down to 20 foot-pounds. You just wanna take your pry bar. And then with the click, you know you're torqued. With it torqued, you'll put your dust shield back on and just tap it home. Now we can reinstall our ABS wire, push back in, and then we're gonna tighten it back up with the stock hardware, which is a 5-millimeter Allen. With the ABS line in, we can now move in our vacuum lines. Just match up and push on it. Now we're gonna complete all those same steps on the other side. We [inaudible 00:39:37] torqued. Dust shield back in place. Now we can reinstall our rotor and our brake caliper. We're not gonna be utilizing the dust shield that we took off. Placing my rotor on. I'm just leaving a lug nut on here just to keep my rotor in place so it won't...there we go. So now we can take our caliper and we're gonna move it onto our rotor. Now we're gonna tighten them up with our 21. And now we're gonna place this bracket for our brake line back in its stock location with our stock bolts. Now we're gonna complete all the same steps for the other side. Now we can put our tie rod ends into our knuckle and then we're gonna tighten it back up with our 21-millimeter socket. All right. Our last step for the front suspension is gonna be to plug back in the electronic power steering. We got our top plug and we have a bottom plug. Push them both in. They snap. Push the clips in. Our front suspension is complete. We have everything torque down and now we're ready to go to the rear. Now that we're at the back of our truck, you're gonna get it on your jack or on your lift and then you're gonna put some tension on the rear axle with some jack stands. So now that we have pressure on our rear axle, we're gonna take our 18-millimeter wrench, a 15-millimeter socket, and we're gonna remove the shock. Move that bolt. Take this out. And then we're gonna complete the same steps on the other side. And with that bolt, both shocks are off our truck. With both of our shocks removed, it's time to remove the brake line assembly bracket, which is located right here. We're gonna remove it and then we're gonna install a dropdown bracket and then install it to that. With our bracket out of the way, we're gonna install our new bracket with our stock hardware. Now we're gonna install our bracket to our drop bracket. Now you're gonna push your bracket down, use the included bolt, washer, and nut to secure. So now we have to relieve some tension on our e-brake cable so that we can remove this bracket so that later down the line on here, we can install our new bracket that was supplied by Rough Country. You're gonna pull back on your e-brake cable and then I'm gonna clamp it right at the edge so that it won't go back. So with slack in the e-brake cable, we can move it down to the bracket. And now we can move it up and separate the two pieces. Push down with the slack and pull out. Now we can take our 10-millimeter socket and remove this bolt. Now we can move that out of the way. And now you wanna take your pliers, apply some pressure so that we can pull this the rest of the way out. And now we have full access to put our new bracket on. So now we have to drill a hole for our new bracket that Rough Country provided. You're gonna take a tape measure and you're gonna measure one and five-eighths from the end. So we're gonna make a mark about there and then we're gonna make a one and three-eighths mark from the bottom. With our spot marked, we're gonna now drill with an eleven-thirty seconds drill bit. With our hole drilled, we're gonna place our bracket up. Match up our two holes. You're gonna utilize the stock hole first. Use the included bolt, washers, and nut. And then we're gonna get our other bolt for the back hole. And now place it through the hole that we drilled. Use your washers and your nut on the other side. And now we're just gonna tighten it up. It's a 16-mil for our bigger one. And then our smaller bolt is a 13. Our next step is to remove the U-bolts and place in our new blocks to get our lift. I'm gonna loosen these ones up a little bit so I can fully remove the other side. Now I'm gonna drop the jack down on this side of the axle so that we can fit in our new block and our new U-bolts. We're gonna take our stock block, move it off the leaf spring, place it as our base on the axle. We're gonna take our new block, and if you look, you'll see that one end is a little taller. We're gonna face that towards the rear of the truck. Place our block in with the higher side to the back and bring the jack back up. With our block in place, it's time to place in our new U-bolts. You're gonna place them right in their old location and then we're gonna use the Rough Country nuts and bolts that were included. Now we can tighten up our U-bolts with our 22-millimeter. We're gonna complete the same steps for this other side. Place your block. And again, remember the higher side goes toward the rear of the truck. U-bolts back. Now we're ready to install Rough Country's rear shocks. As you can see, they are a bit longer to accommodate for our new lift and they're designed to meet or exceed OEM quality so they're gonna provide better control on-road and better comfort when you're going over the trails. So now we're gonna place our shock right in the stock location. We're gonna use our stock bolts. For the bottom bolt, just push up until you get it into place. And then we're gonna take our 15-mil and 18-millimeter socket and tighten this up. And now we're gonna complete the same steps for the other side, 15-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter socket. The rear install is almost complete. Now we just have to reinstall our e-brake cable. We're gonna hook it through our bracket that we installed before and then reconnect it. Pull this back. Go through the hole in our bracket. Connect. Push this through and then connect it. We can place our line back in our bracket and through the top hole and then take our 10-millimeter bolt, put it through. And then now all we have to do is relieve the tension from our wrench, and the emergency brake is fully functional. Our Rough Country four-inch lift kit is almost complete. All that's left is to lower the truck on its wheels so that we can torque our lower control arm bolts. You wanna do this because you wanna have it in a relaxed state with your truck on its wheels. Now with our wheels and tires, we can get our truck on the ground so we could torque down our lower control arm. So now that our truck is on the ground, we're gonna torque our lower control arm bolts to 200 foot-pounds. With everything torqued, that's gonna wrap up my install. I will mention, if you are doing this at home, it's helpful to have a friend or some mechanical experience. But the kit is worth it. As you can see with four inches off the ground, we're leveled. You could fit bigger tires and you're gonna improve your ground clearance if you're going off-road. 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Features, Description, Specs & Installation
Take Your Truck Off Road. If you have always wanted to be a daredevil and take your truck off the black top, now is the chance for you to do it. The Rough Country 4 in. Suspension Lift Kit w/ Upper Strut Spacers provides you with a nice four-inch lift that will jack your truck up and let you clear the obstacles you see nearby. The ground clearance you receive will allow you to accommodate a wide range of oversized tires too. This is one of the best kits on the market and it has a lot to offer you.
Shock Absorbers Included. With the Rough Country 4 in. Suspension Lift Kit w/ Upper Strut Spacers, you will receive both 2WD and 4WD shock absorbers. These absorbers will improve your overall ride quality and you will be able to enjoy trips on the trail without a worry. The shocks will work to provide you with the comfort you expect when your truck barrels over rocks and other trail debris.
Hardware Included. When you are ready to install the Rough Country 4 in. Suspension Lift Kit w/ Upper Strut Spacers, you will find that installation is projected to take an entire day. While installation is moderately easy, you may want to have some mechanical experience, but it is not an absolute requirement and directions will be provided. You can expect the kit to have all of the hardware you need for installation as well. Technical Note: We recommend the use of 8-inch wheels for 2WD models and 9-inch wheels for 4WD models with a 4.5-inch backspacing for full clearance.
Further Protection. Backed by Rough Country's lifetime limited warranty, you'll be protected from defects in this kit for the life of your truck. Some exclusions apply, please see manufacturer's full warranty for details.
Application. This Rough Country 4" Suspension Lift Kit with Upper Strut Spacers is specifically engineered to fit all 2009 to 2014 2WD and 2011-2014 4WD Ford F-150s. Does not fit with the SVT Raptor models.
Freight Notes. Freight items can only be shipped within the continental 48 states, no expedited methods. What is freight shipping? Your Answers are Right Here!.
Technical Note. We recommend the use of 8 inch wheels for 2WD models and 9 inch wheels for 4WD models with 4.5 inch backspacing for full clearance.
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Fitment: 2011 2012 2013 Details
Rough Country 57430
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) a Day
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
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Does not fit 2009-2010 4WD F-150s or SVT Raptor Models.