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Mammoth 3-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500)

Item S112414
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with, and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Mammoth 3-Inch Front, 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. You should be checking out this kit if you're looking to do three things: fit larger wheels and tires on your truck up to 33 inches comfortably, get additional ground clearance at the front and rear, and eliminate some of that factory rake. Now, this particular kit is a little bit more inclusive than just a simple front leveling kit. It includes the rear as well, so you are gonna be lifting the entire truck up. Now, this particular kit lifts the front 3 inches and the rear 2 inches. Lifting the front 3 inches is gonna help you fit larger wheels and tires up to 33 inches comfortably without any modifications. Now, if you're looking to fit up to 35s, just know that anything under 6 inches of lift will require modifications as 35s will rub. Now, we have factory 31s on our truck here, we're gonna show you guys what this looks like fitting 33s, show you what the fitment looks like.This particular kit here is also gonna help give you some ground clearance. Additional ground clearance at the front and rear is gonna help you go over some obstacles that you otherwise may not have been able to with the stock suspension. Three inches at the front is a pretty good amount of ground clearance to bring your front bumper up a little bit higher off the ground. It's gonna do the same thing for the rear but 2 inches. Now, this kit is also gonna help reduce a factory rake. Now, factory rake just refers to the truck suspension sitting lower at the front end than it is at the rear. Now, because this is lifting both the front and the rear, you're bringing the front up 3 inches and the rear up 2 inches. So, it's gonna help level it out but there is still gonna be some rake just not as much. This is gonna use a CNC-machined billet aluminum spacer for the front with a black anodized coating on top to help with oxidation and corrosion resistance. Now, this guy is gonna measure in right around 2 inches of material. This 2 inches combined with the changes in suspension geometry and spring compression will result in a final front lift height of 3 inches. Now, that logic doesn't necessarily apply to the rear because it pretty much is a one to one ratio. This block measures in at around 3 inches but keep in mind your factory block is about 1-inch, so it's 2 inches bigger, resulting in a 2-inch lift. This kit also uses a rear block that is a steel material with a black powder-coated finish on top, little bit different than the front end. This is gonna have that powder-coated finish to help with rust and corrosion resistance.The price tag for the kit comes in right around 150 bucks, that's gonna include the front and rear spacer blocks in addition to the longer U-bolts to accommodate for the added lift material. The install for this gets two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, you can tackle it in the driveway at home but it is a lot more involved than say a simple cold air intake. There's no permanent modification required but it is gonna be time-intensive. It's gonna take you about four hours or so from start to finish to knock out all four corners. With that said, I'm gonna show you every step of the process. Let's get started.Tools used in the install include an impact gun, air impact gun 10-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 17-millimeter, 21-millimeter, and 22-millimeter deep sockets, 8-millimeter hex socket or Allen key, 5.5-millimeter Allen key, 15-millimeter,17-millimeter, and 21-millimeter wrenches. Recommended will be a 15-millimeter and 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, flathead screwdriver, pry bar, panel removal tool, and a hammer.All right, let's kick off the uninstall here. The first thing we wanna do is remove the brake line brackets and the ABS line brackets so that when everything's loose and at full slack or full droop, it's not putting pressure on these lines. There's a 10-millimeter right here and a 10-millimeter right there, just grab your 10 socket and get those 2 off. Now, what I like to do just so we don't lose the bolt, is just thread it on a couple of threads right back in the hole while the bracket's loose, that way we know where it is. Same thing back here, get that bracket off. I'm just gonna lightly thread it back in just like that.Next up, we're gonna loosen up the top nut for our sway bar end link. In order to do that, however, just because there's not a whole lot of room to work with, I'm gonna put a 15-millimeter wrench on the nut on top and use my 15 deep socket on the bolt going through the bottom, and that'll loosen it up. All right, just like that. Now, you don't have to take the entire end link straight down, just wanna grab that nut off the top. And if you can, take the bushing off as well and just set those aside. All right, next up, we're gonna loosen up and remove our tie rod end. Just grab your 21-millimeter deep socket and get that guy off. Now, something to keep in mind here is that if you take this off, then this whole thing's gonna start moving. What I'm actually gonna do now that it's loose, is just put the tie rod end back in and just put this in a couple of threads. We're gonna want this to be pretty stable for the rest of the uninstall, at least up until the point of the upper control arm coming off. So, let's just keep that there for now.Next we're gonna be loosening up and removing the nut on the bottom of our upper control arm where the ball joint connects to the hub here. Now, in order to do that, you're gonna grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. That's at least what I recommend because there's not a lot of room here. And this is where we want the stability of the tie rod end because we don't want this thing moving back and forth. So, let's crack this guy loose. All right, now once this is loose, what we're gonna do is take the nut completely off and then thread it back in a couple of threads. All right, so it's on a couple of threads there. Now, we can grab a hammer and start tapping on the side to dislodge the ball joint. There it is. So, now that we have everything loose, let's take our tie rod end completely off. I'm just gonna put this nut back on so we don't lose it. Now, we can swivel this guy out, gonna push down and remove the nut here. Okay, once this nut is off, I'm gonna set that guy aside. This upper control arm is gonna pop out, so you just wanna be there to support it. Make sure the lines are out of the way, and now that's free.Now we wanna remove the 2 bottom strut bolts, they're 17-millimeters. Keep in mind once these two guys come out, the entire lower control arm is gonna drop down, so just watch your head. The next step here is to remove the top 3 nuts, they're 18-millimeters, and then the entire strut will come out. Before we can do that grab a panel tool or something similar. There are these little clips holding on to the front stud, and then the one closest to the front of the vehicle here on our driver side, just gonna pop those guys off. Same thing on the opposite side as well. So, once you have those off, grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and get those 3 off. Okay, once you have all three off, the strut will drop down and you can take it off. Okay, set it aside. Now, when it comes to the uninstall, you can repeat that exact same process on the other side.First up for the assembly, grab the hex bolts included in the kit, we're gonna go right through the bottom there just like that and to the larger holes and start threading them by hand. From there, you want to grab your 8-millimeter hex key or Allen key, you're gonna tighten it down. Now, we can drop it on the top of our strut. Next up you wanna take your strut, I like to put it between my legs just to stabilize it. We're gonna drop the spacer right on top, it only goes on one way. Once you do have it on, drop the nuts included in the kit onto the factory studs. Grab your 17-millimeter deep socket and tighten them down. All right, now we can install the strut back into the truck. Now you can take your strut, feed it up into the strut tower and use your factory bolts and tighten it down. I'm just gonna put one factory bolt on there lightly just to hold it in place. Now we can put a jack underneath of the lower control arm.Now, our factory bottom strut bolts did strip out so we have to replace them. I'm gonna be replacing them with a bolt just like this and a nut on the bottom. So, with that said, I popped off the threaded nut on top and we're just no longer gonna be using that, I'm gonna be going through the bottom. Now, if you're using your factory bolts and they're in good condition, you wanna go up through the bottom and tighten them down to the bottom of the strut. But again, we're replacing our hardware, so I'm just gonna do that now. So, we lifted the car up in the air just to get a better angle at it. Giving this guy a couple of final taps and then we'll put our nut on the bottom. All right, so now we can start tightening that down. All right, 17 socket and wrench and tighten that down. Same thing for the other bolt. All right, so now I can tap the other guy into the place and tighten it down.Next up, we're gonna focus on our upper control arm. I'm gonna put a pry bar on top of it underneath the coil to help pry down. I'm gonna take this nut off here, lift up the knuckle, set it into place, pry down, and put the nut underneath. All right, now I do have a jack underneath our lower control arm to help push that upward. So that way we get enough threads underneath. Now we can tighten that down. In order to prevent our upper control arm ball joint from spinning, I'm gonna set our tie rod end into place to hold the knuckle steady. Put the nut underneath. Next up, I know it might be tough to see, but we're gonna tighten down that upper control arm nut. If you need to hold that steady, you're gonna use this Allen key in the tip of the stud. You're gonna put your 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench on there first, and feel your way up to put the Allen key in place. Now we can tighten it down. Next, grab your 21 socket and tighten down your tie rod end. Next, we can do our sway bar end link. Put your end link through the bottom, sleeve in the middle. And it looks like we're gonna need to pry up on our sway bar in order to get the sleeve to fit on the inside. So, let's grab a pry bar to pry that up. Put your bushing on and then the nut on top, and then we'll tighten it down with our 15 socket and wrench. Next, we can do the three nuts at the top of the strut tower. If you haven't already put those on, you can put them on now. Grab your 18 and tighten it down. Before we move on, you wanna make sure you're torquing down all of your bolts to your factory spec per your trim package and year range, and then we can move on to the rear.Moving on to the rear, the first thing I wanna mention here is to properly support your rear axle. Now, because we're using a lift and we're up in the air, I have two pole jacks, one on each side, close to the bottom of the shock there. Now, if you're working on the ground, you wanna make sure you're using a hydraulic jack, in which case you can put it right underneath the rear diff. If you have a couple of them, you can go on both sides, but the rear diff will be sufficient. At this point, everything you do to one side, you simultaneously wanna do to the other. So, once you have the weight taken off with the jacks up on both sides, again we're using the pole jacks, we're gonna start by removing the bottom shock bolt. But once you remove that, same thing on the other side, and then we'll get to the U-bolts. For this, I'm gonna grab my 21-millimeter deep socket on my impact gun. I'm using air but you can use a regular cordless impact if you need to or a ratchet, I'm gonna put my 21-millimeter wrench on the bolt head and take this guy off. Now, if your bolt is tight, you wanna jack up just to take the pressure off of that guy, and then start working it off. All right, do the same thing on the other side.All right, next up, again, it's very crucial that you have the weight supported underneath. Again, I'm using pole jacks, this is the absolute part where you need that to happen. You're gonna use your 21 deep socket and we're gonna start removing the bolts on the U-bolts underneath where that cradle is. So, we're gonna start taking these guys off. Now, one thing I would recommend is loosen them all the way to where they're just hand tight, you can pop them off by hand, because this guy is gonna start to drop off. So you don't wanna hit all four and then it just fall to the ground. I just like to leave the nuts on a couple of threads so we can easily catch it. I'll just put this guy back on a couple of threads, and then just work my way around. Okay, so now we can start taking these guys off. And once you to get to the last one this cradle is gonna come with it, so just pull that guy off with it. Next, we can lift up the factory U-bolts because we'll be replacing them, they're not gonna be long enough for the lifted application. Pull those guys out, set those aside. Now before we start lowering this side down to replace the factory lift block, we're gonna repeat the exact same thing on the other side, and then we'll start swapping them out.All right, from here, you can slowly and carefully start lowering these guys down, I recommend lowering them simultaneously. But you can go one after the next, just make sure you're doing a little bit at a time until it's loose enough to get it out. Now, before moving any further, we did throw a pole jack underneath of our driveshaft just to add some support to it, it starts to slouch backward. I started to put a pole jack there and jacked it up just to support that driveshaft so it doesn't tilt backwards. At this point, we can start continuing moving downward. Now, we're already pretty loose, I'm just gonna go a little bit more on both sides. All right, at that point, you can go in, grab that factory block, and slide that guy out. Set that aside. Repeat on the other side and we're good to move on.So, very quickly here, I just wanna go through some similarities and differences comparing the two, the factory lift block and the Mammoth 2-inch rear lift block. Now, obviously, they're just blocks, there's not a ton to talk about when it comes to performance. Really what I wanna talk about is the finish, the size, and kind of what the materials are. Now, both of these are made from a steel. The factory block isn't really powder-coated. This is a 2014 Silverado, this block is looking a little worse for wear. The new block included in the kit from Mammoth is also steel, laser-cut steel, it's a little bit bigger, of course, to accommodate for the larger 2-inch rear lift that you're getting with this, and it's got a black powder-coated finish on top to help with corrosion and rust resistance so it doesn't end up looking like this. And just holding them side by side, you can see the sheer difference in volume, the actual size is different, the design itself, you can see the structural support it's got in the middle. And with that, we're ready to install it. Now, when you do install this, it goes in a certain way. Keep in mind that when you're looking at it from the side, one end is a little bit narrower than the other. That tapered end, the narrow end is gonna be toward the front, and the knob is gonna be on the bottom. So, let's get started.All right, so at this point, we can slide our lift block in, again, with the tapered side facing forward toward the front of the truck. You wanna make sure it's seats into the little divot there on the mount. Now, this little knob on the bottom of our leaf spring will seat into the open hole at the top of our lift block. So, at that point, we could just keep an eye on that and start lifting up on our pole jack. Now, if you need to, because we have enough slack here, you can kind of move the axle back and forth in order to kind of manipulate where it seats just to make sure that it's sitting correctly. So, right there it locked in. Now, I'm basically just gonna jack this guy up. Now, you don't wanna jack up too far. At that point, repeat this on the exact opposite side, and then we can start bolting everything back together.Next up, we're gonna seat our U-bolts, it's gonna drop right down exactly where the factory U-bolts were, just like that. Obviously, we're gonna seat both of them. You wanna make sure they're in the right stock locations before you start tightening anything down. Next, you want to take the factory cradle and we're gonna slide that back on with the new U-bolts. You may need to pinch them together in order to make this guy seat. Once you get that on, put a washer and a nut in all four corners. Now, when you tighten this down, you wanna be strategic with it. You wanna go to opposite corners in almost like a star pattern like you would with lug nuts on a wheel, and you wanna make sure you're tightening them equally. So, you don't wanna have one stud that's all got a lot more stud than the other one, you wanna make sure all four of them are relatively even, then we'll torque them down, same thing on the other side. All right, for this, I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter deep socket. All right, so we got that all the way up. It's not overly tightened just yet, I'm gonna do the same thing in all four corners first. All right, now start tightening them down. Repeat on the other side.Next up, we can focus on our shock. So at this point, you want to jack up the rear axle enough so that those bolt holes line up. Just keep an eye on the other side of course and the driveshaft, make sure if it's drooping, you wanna be correcting that. Okay, grab your factory bolt, put it back through, and tighten it down. Grab your 21 socket and wrench and tighten down your bottom shock bolt. Once you knock that out on both sides, you wanna make sure you're looking up the appropriate torque specs for your specific model and year range. And then of course torque down all your bolts, get an alignment, and you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Mammoth 3-Inch Front, 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. Get yours right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Three Inch Front/2 Inch Rear Leveling Kit
      • Corrects Factory Rake for a Level Stance
      • Increases Ground Clearance
      • CNC-Machined Aluminum Front Strut Spacers
      • Black Anodized Finish
      • Fabricated Rear Leaf Spring Blocks
      • Black, Powder-Coated Finish
      • Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation
      • Fits 2007-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Models


      Lifts and Eliminates Rake. A Mammoth Leveling Kit will raise the front of your 2007-2018 Chevrolet Silverado by 3 inches and the rear by 2 inches to eliminate the factory rake. This Mammoth Kit will not only level your Silverado, but it will also help to increase ground clearance as well.

      Quality Construction. The included Mammoth Strut Spacers have been CNC-machined from aircraft-grade billet aluminum for superior strength and durability. Mammoth then completes its Strut Spacers in a durable, black anodized finish for good looks and long-lasting corrosion resistance. The included Mammoth Lift Blocks are fabricated from steel for strength and are then completed in a durable, black, powder-coated finish.

      Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation. Mammoth designed its Front/Rear Leveling Kit to be a straight forward, bolt-on install with no cutting or drilling required. With all the necessary hardware included, this Leveling Kit can be installed in about 4 hours time.

      Application. This Mammoth 3 inch Front/2 Inch Rear Leveling Kit is specifically engineered to fit 2007-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models.

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      Mammoth S112414

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) 51.5mm Strut Spacers
      • (6) M10x1.50 Bolts
      • (6) M10 Lock Nuts
      • (2) Lift Blocks
      • (4) U-Bolts
      • (8) Nuts
      • (8) Washers

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