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ReadyLIFT 2.25-Inch Front Leveling Kit with Upper Control Arms (14-18 Silverado 1500 w/ Stock Cast Aluminum or Stamped Steel Control Arms)

Item S106981
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$499.95 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with, and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the ReadyLIFT 2.25-inch Leveling Kit with stamped steel upper control arm replacements available for the 2014 to 2018 Silverado and Sierra 1500s with either aluminum or factory stamped steel OEM control arms. Now, whether or not you have the aluminum or stamped steel option in your '14 to '18 Silverado or Sierra, this is a great choice for a number of reasons. Number one, it is pretty affordable coming in right around 500 bucks and it doesn't only have the bare essentials, it actually upgrades those upper control arms to give you better off-roading experience and better support with bigger and better strength.Now, the biggest highlight here for the 2.25-inch leveling kit is the fact that it will allow for up to 33-inch tires all around your vehicle, which is a huge complaint from the factory with your factory height. Now, the factory height doesn't allow for anything bigger than the factory tires without causing some kind of rubbing in multiple areas of your front wheel wells. Raising up that front end about 2.25 inches leveling out that appearance is also gonna give you the opportunity to add those 33s without having any rubbing or anything like that and no modifications will be necessary further than that. Now, with that said, 35s, a whole other story, they will not, unfortunately, work with this low of a kit. You will definitely need a bigger lift kit in order to accommodate for 35s but a lot of guys like 33 so this is a big win for us.In addition to actually allowing you to increase your tire size, you are leveling out the whole truck, hence the leveling kit. From the factory, you do have about a 2 to 2.5-inch nosedive at the front. It's called factory rake, which essentially is there to give you better towing and hauling capabilities. When you do tow and haul sags the rear end down, which tends to level out the truck. But other than that, the appearance is not what we like. You know we like leveling these things out. So, 2.25 inches will bring that front end up giving you more ground clearance. And with the upper control arms here, you're actually gonna have a better off-road experience. These have highly articulate ball joints at the front end giving you more comfortable and capable off-roading experiences while also giving you a stamped steel construction which has very good welds, it has very superior construction and durability, something that will hold up in the long run and it won't corrode or rust like your factory ones tend to.With all of that in mind, this kit does put it at the $500 range, which is a little more expensive than your bare essentials that you get from a lift kit, but it is gonna give you a nice budget-friendly price at the end of the day. With the addition of those, the lift spacers that are going on at your front suspension are made from a CNC machined billet aluminum. They're extremely lightweight, but they're also extremely durable. They're very, very easy to install once you get your factory suspension unassembled, which I'll show you guys every step of the process. In addition to the top spacers, you're also given bottom spacers. So, the top is about 2 inches, the bottom adds that other 0.25-inch and the reason being you need a little bit more space at the bottom to connect your lower control arms. So, ReadyLIFT has given you everything you need to get the job done.The install, I am gonna give two out of three, almost three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, not because it requires any cutting or any drilling, but you do need some special tools on deck to get the job done. It's not just gonna be a simple ratchet and socket set. I'm actually using air tools, but impact guns will work as well. Ratchets, pry bars, also torque wrenches will need to be on deck. I'd also recommend picking up a couple of ratcheting wrenches if you only have basic ones on deck. Just makes life a whole lot easier. I'll take you guys through every step of the process. It'll take two hours from start to finish. With all of that in mind, what do you say we get to it on the uninstall?The tools used in this install include a 3/8 impact gun, 0.5-inch air gun, black Sharpie, 0.5-inch ratchet, and 3/8 ratchet, 10, 11, 15, and 21-millimeter 3/8 deep sockets, 15, 21, and 22-millimeter 0.5-inch deep sockets, a 3/8 swivel socket, a 0.5-inch swivel socket, 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench or regular wrench, 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench, and an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, 5.5-millimeter Allen key, Blue Loctite, flathead screwdriver, a panel removal tool, a ball-peen hammer, a dead blow mallet, torque wrench, and a large pry bar.All right. Now skipping past a couple of the easy steps, taking the front wheels off, of course, getting the truck up in the air and properly supported. As you can see, we're using a lift, but if you're working on the ground, jack stands will definitely do the trick. Moving right along, grab an impact gun or a ratchet and a 10-millimeter socket. We're gonna disconnect our ABS line from the assembly. Now, there are two points of contact and then a third Christmas tree. So, right at the top of our assembly, we have this 10-millimeter bolt, going up the upper control arm, there's another one, and then up on the bracket to the left side of our strut you'll see another Christmas tree. First step, let's get this one off. And right up here on the upper control arm, we're gonna tackle that second one. Now, at this point, that does detach, but I like to go a step further and get this off. So, I'm gonna grab a panel removal tool and just pop that off the bracket. Perfect. That just gives you a little bit more slack to play with on this line. At this point, we're gonna move on to disconnecting our sway bar end link you see here. Now, it's a 15-millimeter nut on top and a 15-illimeter bolt through the bottom coming up through the top. Now, you can't just grab a ratchet and go straight onto the nut on top because it's just gonna spin the whole stud. So, I'm gonna grab an air gun. And now, if you don't have an air gun an impact gun works just as well or even a ratchet. I find air to be a little easier. Now, I'm gonna put a 15-millimeter socket on the bottom with our air gun holding on that bolt and a 15-millimeter deep socket on top of the ratchet and I'm gonna gun it off from the bottom. This way it holds itself so it doesn't spin. As you see, the bolt is coming through the bottom, the nut came off on top and we got it to come out of place.Now, you wanna note of which direction all the bushings are facing. There's a bushing and a spacer at the bottom of the bolt head, there's a bushing and a spacer at the top. You see here, this one is still on the sway bar, so we're gonna pop that off. And then we're gonna have to remove this plastic piece. So, what I like to do to remember everything is take the stud, slip the plastic piece back on it just so you remember the order of everything. Pop that bushing on top and then we'll put the nut back on. It fell on the ground, so we're just gonna grab it, tighten it together, that way you know exactly how the sway bar end link attaches again.The next step here, we're gonna disconnect the two bolts holding down the bottom of our strut. Now, these are both 15 millimeters right on the bottom of our lower control arm. Again, I'm gonna be using air, but impact gun or ratchet does the trick as well. Keep in mind that once you have both of those removed, the whole thing isn't gonna jolt too much, but it will give a little bit of a flex. You might see this pop a little bit. It's just essentially decompressing. So, just be mindful of that. You don't wanna have your head too close to it because it will jolt a little bit. But from here, just bang these off.All right. That's strut jolted a little bit. Now, we can get to work on the top holes. At this point, we're working at the top of our strut tower. Now, it's one thing to note that I like to grab a flathead screwdriver because there are plastic retainer pins, clips rather, on the top of each of these three studs. Now, they don't really have a purpose other than to hold the wiring in place, so we got to get those off in order to access these nuts. So, just grab a flathead. I find it to be the easiest route. And really you're just prying up on these plastic clips until they pop off. They are a bit of a pain in the butt. They're really, really on there for the most part, so just have a little bit of patience and we'll get them off. All right. So, there's one. Now, we can work on the back one. Just remove all those. Now, we can grab our ratchet and get those out.All right. The next step is to remove these three nuts holding on the top of our strut. Now, I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. I find this to be the absolute easiest route to go. If you don't have a ratcheting wrench, you'll be here for a while. They are a pain in the butt to get off. So, I'd recommend getting one of these from your local auto parts store. It's just gonna be a lifesaver and a timesaver, more importantly. Now, I also like to grab one that's a little bit longer so I can bring my arms outside of the wheel well a little bit more just to make it a little easier, give you a little more leverage and that way we can just crank away for a few minutes at these nuts. All right. Once you get about halfway up, you can start doing it by hand. We'll just spin this right off. Wanna make sure you're holding onto these. All right. Now, we can just repeat that for the other two.The next step here is to remove our strut. Now, it's not super hard, but there's not a lot of room to work with. What we're gonna do is push the bottom toward the inside between the two arms of our lower control arm, that way we can pull it downward and get these studs out of position and then we'll pull it out from the top. So, what you might need to do is push down on the assembly to give yourself a little bit more room. But what we're gonna do essentially, just push this toward the middle. Once that's out toward the middle, bring it down so it disconnects from the top and feed it out above your upper control arm.At this point, we're gonna disconnect our upper control arm. We're gonna have to remove this 18-millimeter nut from the bottom, but there is a small process you wanna follow when doing so. You're gonna grab an 18-millimeter wrench, and again, I'm using that 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. I find that to be a lot easier. You're gonna put that into place and then you need an Allen key to hold the bottom to keep it from spinning. I find that to be a 5.5-millimeter Allen key. Just put that into place and start working the wrench and it'll keep everything from spinning. One thing I want to note here is you just wanna bring this nut all the way down to about the last thread but don't fully remove it. We're gonna have to pop the upper control arm loose and you wanna support the bottom with a pole jack or a jack stand.Now, one thing before you get all the way down is to note that you need a pole jack or a jack stand underneath of the suspension components. This is because this whole thing will drop down once we disconnect that upper control arm. Right now it's the only thing holding this thing up in the air properly. So, just take note of that. Make sure you have your pole jack in place or your jack stand. The other thing is ours is disconnecting from the spindle, but yours may be stuck in place. If that's the case, you wanna make sure that this is not completely removed from the bottom. Grab a ball-peen hammer and start tapping away at the top to dislodge that ball joint. Ours looks like it's coming up as you can see here, so I'm just gonna keep working the ratchet, but what you might wanna do is pry down on the top here. I'm gonna show you guys that right now.All right. At this point, I'm gonna put that pry bar right underneath our frame and pull straight down. So, you can see this is dislodged. And since we've got the nut all the way down at the bottom pretty loose, I'm just gonna take it off by hand. If you need to use the ratchet you can do so. Just grab that nut off. Now, at this point, there's nothing holding this on but this pry bar. So, just slowly pull that up. You might wanna put a hand on the front of the rotor in the meantime to catch it because it is gonna wanna fall. Also, the ABS line is gonna wanna tangle up at the top. Make sure that's out of the way. Completely get this down. Slowly lower your pole jack. In order to make note of where your nut is, I actually just like to thread this right back on the upper control arm so I don't lose it.Next step here guys is pretty important. Now, regardless of the next step, you are still going to need an alignment at the end of the day, but this step is gonna help to make sure that your alignment is as close to as it was as possible to make it road drivable. So, grab a Sharpie and we're gonna go back to the bolts holding in our upper control arm. Now, on those cam bolts are cams. Essentially, marking those locations will help us get that back to stock as close as possible. Grab your Sharpie and you'll see this retainer pin, this alignment pin. You wanna mark on the alignment cam with a Sharpie right against that pin on both sides so you know when we put these back together about where it needs to be positioned. Do that on all four sides. All right, doing the same thing over here. I'm just gonna grab our Sharpie and mark right up against that pin on both sides.At this point, I'm gonna grab a 21-millimeter wrench and we're gonna hold the bolt head side from the inside and we're gonna grab a 21-millimeter socket on my impact gun and we're gonna gun the nut off from the outside. At this point, we can pull this straight back and do that from both sides. We're gonna retain these. You wanna hold onto these to be re-installed later. All right. Now, we can do the same thing for the other side. We're pretty much done the uninstall process for our passenger side. I'd recommend repeating this entire uninstall for the opposite side and then start assembling things on the table. So, what do you say we get to it?So, now that we have everything uninstalled from our 2018 Sierra behind me, I just wanted to give you a quick side by side comparison for the upper control arms. Now, not a whole lot to look at, but I just wanted to give you the side by side here. These are our factory stamped steel OEM control arms straight off of our '18 Sierra. Yours again might look a little bit different because there are aluminum options, cast aluminum, and the stamped steel. And we're going from that whether or not you have the aluminum or steel to a tubular steel control arm, which is slightly different. This is gonna be a little bit stronger and as I mentioned, has a more articulate ball joint, which gives you a bigger, wider range of motion, little bit better for off-road use. Also, what's a little bit different here if you look at the top of our control arms, the factory one had the pre-drilled hole on it to retain your ABS line. This actually has a stud coming up and includes a couple of nuts so you can actually bolt the bracket to it, which I think is a little bit more secure. And now, of course, that's not too different, it's one over the other. But either way I just wanted to give you a quick side by side here. So, tubular steel, gonna be a little bit stronger, it has a little bit more range of articulation for the ball joint, different stud, different mounting method for your ABS line. So, either way, I'm gonna toss these side. We're gonna bring our factory struts onto the table and assemble the spacers onto the top.We do have a couple of things to assemble. I should note that the new nuts provided for you in the kit are working to actually bolt this to the vehicle. So, we're not putting these in place just yet, but what I wanna show you guys is how to put your spacers on. Now, the spacers really only go on one way. This triangular shape here is in a very specific direction, so you just wanna rotate your spacer until all three of them line up. So, this is not the way, so we're just gonna rotate it over until it drops on. Once it drops into place, what I recommend doing is taking Blue Loctite and just putting a very small dab at the top of your factory threads. This way when we bolt it up to the vehicle, it's really gonna lock those nuts in place. And we're not gonna put the nuts on just yet, we're just gonna assemble this on both sides.Next up here, grab your upper control arm, our new one from the ReadyLIFT kit and we're gonna put that into place. Now, make note of which one goes where. They are driver and passenger side-specific. Once you take that rubber grommet off of the stud here, just pretty much keeping it safe from when they painted it. Grab that thing off. Just make sure that is on the same side as your ABS line. That's how you know which one is driver and which one's passenger. We're on the passenger side here. Now, we're gonna drop this into place and it is pretty tight so you may need a pry bar in order to get this in, but just seat it into place. All right. Now, we can grab a mallet to drop it down to line up with the holes. At this point, we're gonna take our cam bolt and put it in through the inside. Now, you wanna keep in mind where we made our mark on our cam. Line that up with the pin. Now, the pin does tend to come out, so you wanna make sure you're pushing it into position. Line that up as best you can and we're gonna put the cam in on the other side along with the nut. Doing the same thing. All right. Now, once we have the cam bolt on the other side, we'll start to tighten these down and hold them in position.All right. Now, we can tighten them down. You wanna make sure you're getting them as close as possible to the marks that we made in the very beginning. Ours is looking pretty good, so I'm just gonna hold that in place and tighten them down. All right. Same thing on the other side and then we'll torque them. All right. Next up, you wanna grab your strut and we're gonna put that in place. At this point, grab your lower strut spacer and we're gonna put that in position underneath of our strut and on top of our lower control arm. Now, in order to do that, it's gonna go on just like this, line them up with the holes and just seat them in between. Now, we can grab our factory bolts and put them through.At this point, what we're doing is taking a pole jack and putting it under our lower control arm and we're just gonna jack it up until our studs come through the top. We're gonna thread on our new nuts provided to us by ReadyLIFT. All right. Once we have this threaded on by hand, we can tighten down the bottom nuts, then the top nuts, and we can move on to our upper control arm. All right.At this point, grab a 15 socket again and we're gonna tighten down the bottom strut bolts. All right. At this point, we have a floor jack helping us out here. What we're doing is basically lowering the weight of the truck onto the floor jack pushing up on our lower control arm, while also grabbing a pry bar to pry down on the upper control arm. See we have the joint inserted into the hole on our spindle. So, basically, we're just gonna push down here until the studs come through the bottom and we can see the thread.At this point, while still prying down in the upper control arm to put pressure on the ball joint, we're gonna take our 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and just tighten it up. At this point, grab a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench and we're gonna tighten up the three bolts or the three nuts at the top of our strut tower. Now, at this point, I'd recommend taking those plastic clips and just reconnecting them to the top of the stud, if you can. Some cases there might not be enough stud available to get those to snap back on. It looks like maybe our last one back here can snap on, but that's about it. Now, the next step here is our sway bar end link. Now, in order to do this, we wanna make sure it's in the exact same order that it was when we first took it off. So, first we're going to take off the top spacer, then the bushing. Next will be this entire centerpiece. This bottom piece is gonna go exactly like you see here. It's gonna have a spacer and a bushing down underneath of your lower control arm. As you put that through, slide the middle section in, then we're gonna slide that up and connect it with our sway bar. All right. Now, if you need to, you can put a pry bar in and pry down on the sway bar just enough to get that top spacer tightened on. At this point, we're gonna put our 15 socket on the top nut and a 15 socket on the bottom of the bolt head and tighten it down.The next step is to reconnect our ABS line here. Now, that bracket is gonna go right on the top of our spindle. We can line that up. Grab a 10-millimeter socket. Now, the difference is with our new upper control arm, this bracket here is gonna go right over this stud and you're gonna take the new 11-millimeter nut provided for you in the kit and you're gonna thread that on top. Grab your 11 socket and tighten that one down. Next up, follow that straight up and reattach that Christmas tree clip. Grab your torque wrench and a 21-millimeter deep socket. Set your torque wrench to 120 foot-pounds and we're gonna tighten up and torque down our upper control arm cam bolts. Just wanna go until you get two solid clicks and then repeat for the other one.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the ReadyLIFT 2.25-inch Leveling Kit with the upper control arms available for the 2014 to 2018 Silverado and Sierra 1500s with either aluminum or stamped steel OEM control arms. You can pick this kit up right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Front Leveling Kit
      • 2.25 In. Height
      • Rock Solid Machined Aluminum Construction
      • Steel Shock Extensions
      • Allows Installation of a New Winch, Accommodates Larger Tires, and More
      • Lifetime Warranty
      • Medium Degree of Difficulty to Install
      • Compatible with the 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 w/ Aluminum or Stamped Steel Control Arms


      Front Strut Spacer Leveling Kit. Level your 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with Aluminum or Stamped Steel Control Arms with the high-performance ReadyLIFT 2.25 in. Front Leveling Kit w/ Upper Control Arms. This unit provides a front lift height of 2.25 inches with a rock solid machined aluminum construction and steel shock extensions for a full suspension.

      Options. This kit is used when a lifted truck front end is needed for styling purposes or to install a new winch or flow, where increased ground clearance is required. Users can also add larger tires and wheels with this configuration.

      Warranty. ReadyLIFT guarantees your product is free from defects in material and workmanship with a limited lifetime warranty. Damage as a result of abuse or neglect will not be covered. To understand the terms, please visit the manufacturer's website.

      Installation. Handy people can install this product with a medium level of complexity. Detailed, step-by-step instructions are included in the package. Users can also have it serviced using a professional installer or auto center.

      Application. The ReadyLIFT 2.25 in. Front Leveling Kit w/ Upper Control Arms is compatible with the 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with Aluminum or Stamped Steel Control Arms.

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      ReadyLIFT 66-3086

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Strut Spacers
      • (2) Tubular Upper Control Arms
      • Instruction Sheet

      Customer Reviews (7)

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        Reviews of ReadyLIFT Suspension products have an average rating of 4.8 out of 5

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