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Putco Luminix LED Grille Emblem (17-24 F-250 Super Duty w/o Forward Facing Camera)

Item SD1257
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      Video Review & Installation

      Noah: Noah here from American Trucks, and in front of me I have the Putco Luminix LED Grille Emblem for the '17 and newer F-250 Super Duty without the forward-facing camera. Grille emblems that have LED lights in them are growing in popularity, and they really can transform the front end of your truck. If you're looking for an LED touch to make your truck look more modern, then a lit grille emblem would be a good addition to your rig. To be clear though, this will only fit trucks without a forward-facing camera.This little guy can pack a pretty big punch, as you can see, and it really does transform the grille of your F-250. Even when it's turned off, this emblem looks better than the factory one with that black finish behind the Ford logo, and then the pop and contrast of the logo itself. Putco's emblem is also licensed by Ford as well, so you know it's going to be decent, and not super cheap and gimmicky. And there also is a startup sequence as well for that cherry on top.In terms of construction, this LED emblem does get mounted on the front of the truck outside, so it's weatherproofed so moisture can't damage the LEDs. In the manufacturing process, a corrosion-resistant coating is also applied, so this thing stays looking great for a really long time. The emblem is designed to fit on the front grille only, but if you want these for the tailgate as well, we do have those on our site too. Then to finish everything off, this guy does come with a two-year warranty from the manufacturer.This emblem from Putco costs around $250 all said and done, and I definitely say that at that price point it is still one of the cheaper upgrade options out there to install in the grand scheme of things. So if you're looking to get some curb appeal on a budget, a grille emblem may be a good thing for you to consider.Installing this emblem might prove to be a little difficult to some DIY-ers out there. Now, according to the site, this will require a little bit of mechanical skill. It's an install difficulty of two out of three wrenches, and it should take you about an hour to get the job done. That's enough from me though. I'm gonna hand you over to one of our AT customers who's gonna walk you through that install process step by step.Tory: All right, guys, so this is will be everything that you need to install the Putco light. So you will need a heat gun, you will need a quarter-inch ratchet, whether a DeWalt or...well, doesn't really matter. Ten-millimeter socket, and an eight-millimeter socket, quarter-inch extension, a set of crimpers, flathead, preferably as long as you can get, screwdriver, a trim panel puller, T25 and T30 Torx bits, pair of snips, black heat shrink. Do not skimp out on this. Get the Super 33 black heat shrink or black tape, it will last you so much longer than that cheap Amazon stuff. Wire strippers, some black heat shrink, thread locker, and an assortment of butt splices and connectors, and zip ties. And of course, the provided wiring harness for this.What's going on, guys? My name's Tory, and today we're gonna be installing the Putco LED grille emblem on my 2019 Super Duty. All right, guys, so first things first is we gotta get all these push pins out. I'll do this side, and then I'll move over there and show you guys how that's done. So air filter. And if you just get underneath that tab.So now we have four push pins up here, one, two, three, four. Then we got one, two, three, four, five, six along here. This front row we need to get off. So let's get these first. Like I said, underneath it and it pops right up. It should look just like that. Do that for all four of them. There's that four. Be easy on them. You don't want to break them. If you do break them, I mean you can go easily find these at AutoZone or any of your auto stores next to your house. One more over here. All right, that's done for the middle, and we'll move over to that side.Okay, now we're on the driver's side, so we have two more push pins, two trim panel pieces to pull out. And these ones right here in the corner, such a pain to get out, but you know what you're doing to get them out. So now we need to remove our 10-millimeter bolt and pull this off. I'll show you guys how that's done right now. Okay, so now that all of our push pins are out, the four up here and all along the front, this should just pop right off. We'll just set it right there for now, and that will give us 10-millimeter bolts that we have to take out, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight of them total. So... Okay, those are all eight 10-millimeter bolts that are holding your front grille onto your truck.Okay, so now that we removed our 10-millimeter bolts all along the top and our plastic cover, you're gonna want to put your fingers in here, kind of fingers right there. Just give it a firm pull just like that. You see, kind of release that side. So we're gonna do the same on the other side. You gotta take your flat head and push down in this little, and it'll kind of pop it out. Same for this one. Just push down and you see it came out just like that. Okay, so here are the other two, gonna wanna get in there and pop that one. This one as well. There you go. Now that is free.Okay, now that we have successfully removed the plastic shroud, the eight 10-millimeter bolts, unhinged both sides of the grille, both sides. We have pushed the four pins down four, two on each side. Now it's free and we can successfully bring it off. Now we need to run our wires from this location down back. I'm gonna do it to my upfitter switches because I want to be able to turn it on and off whenever I want. I don't want it to be on all the time. So that's what I'm going to do. Okay, so as you guys can tell, I pretty much cut a rough length of what I think I would need and I put it in wire loom. You know, I want it to stay protected, so, you know, that's what we're gonna do is keep it protected.So, I'm gonna take this in, the part that goes to the upfitters, and let's see, we're gonna route it through there and this is where we need to be. Behind. And then there's a little knockout... Right here in this little corner, there's a little piece though, little area you can slide the wire through. Okay, now that we got it past this point, let's pull it through until you have about, you know, your desired length, maybe six to eight inches of wire just here just for safekeeping. And then we're gonna go down under this frame, just like that. Up through there. And now we're gonna route it along this backside.Okay, so now we're on the driver's side of the engine bay, wrap it underneath the radiator support... Sorry, now I'm gonna go behind the windshield washer fluid, and run it back behind the tubes. And you're starting to follow the factory wiring. There's factory wiring all throughout here. There's a little channel. So go underneath our coolant. Just so you guys can get a better look, we ran the wire back behind this coolant, and if you see down in there, kind of see it, there is a factory wiring harness already. So we're just going to zip tie to that and do our connections over here.Okay, so this is our wiring harness. I left about six to eight inches right there, and then I went through that little channel right there. That brought me up to here. So I ran down under the radiator support, back through there, behind the windshield wiper fluid. So there is the factory wiring harness and there is our wiring harness. I path it through there behind the coolant, and to our upfitter switches. All right guys, so I just showed you the pathway that I was taking through my wiring harness and now I'm gonna zip-tie it. And so, you know, we want to keep us a good amount there, so that's fine for now. Throw a zip tie right here. There's nowhere really to zip-tie it to, so just kind of do your best just securing it and getting it out of the way.So now we have our six to eight inches of slack right here, and we already got the Ford emblem on my grille so we can throw the grille back on and light it up and see what happens. Everything should go good. So now we'll just reverse all those steps and put it all back together, see what happens. All right guys, so here's my wiring harness. I ran and zip-tied already and showed you guys, so I'm running up down there through that crack back down underneath my radiator support. The backside of the window reservoir, zip-tied it to a factory wiring harness there. Ran it back to over here. Here are the leads and I zip-tied it one last time right there. And here are my factory upfitter switches. So that is what I will do now is hook it up.Okay, so now what we'll do is we'll take our upfitter switches, and we'll untape them from the bundle. So if you read on this paper, it'll say, you know, which upfitter switches they're going to and then you got brown, run, start, out. So we'll locate the brown wire, brown and red. That's our brown. Take this, chop that down and then we'll strip it. That right there. It'll sit real nice. Cut a little bit off and apply our butt connector. Take our crimpers, we will give it a nice crimp. It's not going anywhere. Tuck test it. Slide this on to your brown wire, your run, start, stop. Locate the wires that we ran. Finish to zip-tying them, get it nice tight. Now what we're gonna do our red wire is gonna go to this brown wire. Give this a nice cut. A little more than that. You want a really nice connection. When you hook this one up, this will be your main power, so I mean no matter what, you want a good connection but this one, you don't want this exposed anywhere. Anything sticking out. You need to take this, give it a nice crimp. There we go. Tug test, it's not coming out. Slide your heat shrink over. Okay.And like I said, 33 black tape, electrical tape. Wrap it around, stick these back here, and then I'm gonna get these all taped back up nicely, zip tied, and put right there. So I have a ground right here that I used for my radar detector. I hooked it up to an upfitter switch, switch one, so once I turn it on, turn it off, just because the mute on, it gets really annoying. So we're just gonna go right there. I'll just get a fork lug and put it right there. So let's strip this out just a little bit more. That should be good. I'll be right back with a fork. So we'll need an eight-millimeter to loosen this up. Don't take it off all the way, there's no need to, just enough.So make sure your fork... There you go. We'll just slide it right up under there. Make sure it's the right size. It is. We might need to go with a blue. Yeah, so we're gonna go with the blue one because it's a smaller wire gauge. Slide that on, like so. Take your crimpers. Couldn't get them to open all the way. Set it all in there. That was cool. Now that's done. Now, take it under here. Cable management, guys. Cable management.Now take our eight-millimeter, make sure they're on there nicely, and we tighten them. So, when I got all these wires, they were all taped up already so I'm gonna tape them back up. I'm just gonna lay it right there and zip-tie it. Okay, so now what we're gonna do is take the old emblem off. If you had the front-facing camera or the wiper fluid that you'd have to disconnect it from here before pulling it off the grille, I don't have it so it's a lot easier. So these are 10-millimeter bolts. Go ahead and take these off. Okay, make sure you keep all your hardware together. I highly suggest getting one of these for all your nuts and bolts in, you can't lose them. Simple. I used a hand tool on these threads just because they're a little smaller. Probably easier to strip so didn't wanna strip them out.Okay, so now with the grille flipped over, it should just come right out, just like that. So now we are going to take this off of the bench so we can get our Putco LED light ready. Okay, so for this step you'll need your Putco light, some blue lock tie, torx bits. Prefer if you get all of them in one. I mean, it's just more convenient to have them all if you're not really doing really big projects, and just need a torx bit here and there. So then you will need the wiring harness and the studs that came with your light. These. Just put a dab. Ooh. More than a dab. You're gonna insert them in the hole. Make sure it's nice and tight. Same thing for the other. Blue lock tie, and thread it in the hole really tightly. As tight as you can get it. I mean, you don't want to use any tools on this, you don't want to mess the threads up or anything. That would be about there.So put these off to the side and get our grille up here. Okay, so I let these dry for a little bit. And I'm noticing a problem. When I put it in, the wire, even if I snake it in the middle, it's not allowing it to sit flush on this side. So what I think we're going to do is drill a tiny hole right here, and I'll show you here in a minute, just to feed our wire through, and just so it sits nice and flush. Okay, so as you can see that wire right there, there's no hole for it. So I'll have to mark that out with the sharpie so we can, you know, set it flush because this side, nice and flush, that one, not so much.Okay, so I marked out where it's gonna be. Gonna be using the small layer drill bit to start. Okay, wanna be really careful. You might wanna hold the bottom because there's two layers of plastic. And we're gonna go with a little bit of a bigger bit, that one right there, and do the same thing. Now we're just gonna make this hole fits a little bigger, no big deal. And so you can see what I did, just made a hole right there. It's not gonna affect anything. This black piece has its own backing behind this. It is just the chrome that's on top. So shouldn't have a problem. I'm gonna cut this right here, and then butt-splice it so I don't have to drill a big hole in my grille. My cutter's here.So you want to give yourself enough room to play with. I mean, you don't want to just cut it right here at the light. So right here should be fine. Yeah, we'll do right here. No going back now. So now, wire's in there, send it down that hole and look at that. Nice and clean there. The fitment is there now. Go ahead and flip this around. Well, I'm gonna get one of the provided nuts and just stick it on there so it doesn't fall out. That would suck to have to do things twice. Okay, so I got one nut in screwed, and we'll flip it around and then we'll be back. Okay now with it flipped over, you can see the one nut that I already started. So, tighten that up, and this is an eight-millimeter nut. So you wanna make sure it's even, just put your fingers on either side and just kind of make sure it's even up and down. And eight-millimeter socket. Don't use an impact gun or an impact wrench. It's not worth the headache if you strip something out.Very carefully, I'm gonna take this one. Okay, so you guys remember we had to drill that hole to get these wires through so we cut them. So now take our wire strippers and we are going to spice about a half-inch. Maybe a little more. Should be good. Should be good. Give it a nice twist. Give it a nice twist. The piece we cut off, connector end, do the same for that, about a half-inch. Give it a nice spin. So take our butt connector, I liked it when I put it in there, kind of twist it the way the wire is going and that'll allow for it to go on a little better. Same for this one. Twist it. Spin it. We're gonna take our crimpers. Give it a tug. That will do. Do the same for the red.Let me take our black heat shrink, find the end of it. We need two pieces, so what I'll do, take it like this and I would like a little more. So cut about that off. These were already crimped. Slide your heat shrink on. Slide your heat shrink on the red. Okay, when you got your heat shrink on, now you just connect red to red, black to black. Give this a little spin, spin it in there. Take your crimpers, make sure you're getting the actual crimp side, and not where the unsheathed wire is. Tug test. Good. This one, black to black, same thing. Make sure you're getting the crimp side and not the sheathing. Crimp, tug test. Now throw your heat shrink on both of them. Take your heat gun. I like to just keep it at one spot for the longest, and then it'll slowly all start to shrink as you're seeing right now. Okay.Those ones are both good and what I like to do is, again, take some more tape and just tape them because they are gonna be exposed to the elements a lot. Tape them up, like so. You already got the heat shrink on it so it's not really that big of a deal that you tape them together and it's already protected. They're not gonna touch, we just want a nice weatherproofing on it. Make sure it's real tight. There we go. Just connect them back. Okay, now you guys saw me run the wires to the upfitter switches all the way, zip tied all the way around, and here's our connector right here. Now it's time to install the grille. So lift up, right now would be the time if you misplaced any of these little clips along the way, putting it down, right now is the time. You wanna put all your screws in and then tighten them because if you tighten one, then the other ones probably won't line up.So 10-millimeter, a quarter-inch socket. And be careful when you're doing this, you don't want... I'm just using this... And that one in the middle. If you don't know what you're doing, you can... Now, I am just going to plug the end from our light. This end is from our light, and this end is from our upfitter switch. So just plug these in for now. There we go. Okay, so now we have it connected. Let's try and see if it works, and then we will tidy it all up. All right, let's see if it works. Now, it's on, so we wired it correctly.So now I'm gonna take these wires and I'm going to zip tie them up. Well, first of all, let me throw some tape around that. I don't want it coming loose, or coming undone, or getting water in it. So pick your poison. A lot of things could happen. So [inaudible] one right here. All right, so it's coming through there. Zip tied it right there. Those are the two conjoining. Taped the connector, and then ran it back, and then just zip-tied it to the hood latch. What cabling? So it should be fine exactly where it is. And our light works. So we'll put this shroud back on and call it a night. Get that out of the way. [inaudible] Just like that. There we go. Don't even need this anymore. So now just our push pins in that convenient little tray I was telling you guys about. There we go. Cool.Noah: That was the Putco Luminix LED Grille Emblem for the '17 and newer F-250 Super Duty without the forward-facing camera. For all things F-250 Super Duty, keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Front Oval Ford Emblem
      • Made for Front Grille Placement
      • Features a Heavy-Duty Construction
      • Coated With a Durable Black Finish
      • Quick Installation Process
      • Sold Individually
      • Includes a 2-Year Limited Warranty
      • Available With a Ford License
      • Fits All 2017-2024 Ford Super Duty F-250 Models Without a Forward Facing Camera


      Better Looking Front End. Give your Super Duty’s front end a makeover by outfitting it with this Luminix LED Front Emblem. The black finish and the contrasting Ford logo is a good and efficient way to draw attention to your Super Duty. In addition, the LED lights will not only show-off your love for your truck, it will also increase your visibility at night.

      Heavy-Duty Construction. This Luminix LED Front Emblem is designed to endure harsh weather and rough driving conditions. Manufactured from heavy-duty materials, this LED front emblem will last longer compared to non-licensed brands. To protect this emblem from rust and corrosion, Manufacturer applies a durable, corrosion-resistant coating.

      Quick Installation Process. This Luminix LED Front Emblem can be installed with a quick plug and play process. This front emblem can directly interface with your Super Duty’s fuse box.

      Officially Licensed. This Luminix LED Front Emblem is supported and officially licensed by Ford. This emblem is sold individually as front or rear emblems.

      Warranty Coverage. This Luminix LED Front Emblem is backed by a 2-year limited warranty. For the full details regarding coverage and exclusions, please check the manufacturer's warranty details.

      Application. This Luminix LED Front Emblem will fit all 2017-2024 Ford Super Duty F-250 models without a forward facing camera.

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      Putco 92701

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      • (1) LED Front Emblem
      • Mounting Hardware

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