(approx) 30 Minutes
Simple installation for anyone.
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Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com. And today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the Proven Ground C&L Series Oil Separator or Catch Can for the Passenger Side of all 2011 to '20 F-150s. You should be checking this out if you're looking to reduce or even eliminate oil sludge and blow-by from bogging down your engine over time, which can rob you of some horsepower and torque. Now, if you're not familiar with blow-by, blow-by is essentially crankcase exhaust gases that make its way back into your manifold and your engine and it can, over time, coat the inside of your throttle body and intake manifold and as it gets coated, it sludges up and can rob you of that power. Your engine will eventually feel really sluggish. It'll feel like you don't have all the power at the wheels as you want to. And this is something that can prevent that extremely easily.The way that an oil separator works is you typically pick up the passenger side like this one, which is the PCV side, and you'll replace the PCV hose with something like this. This is a 7.5-ounce capacity catch can or oil separator that does just that. It's going to filter out all the oil through this, catching all of the sludge and blow-by before it can make its way to the intake manifold, which then coats the inside like I said. This particular one is one of the nicer ones I've seen, to be honest with you. It's a little bit bigger. Typically, you get a 3-ounce capacity. Like I said, this is 7.5 ounces, so it is bigger, which means you don't have to do maintenance on it as often, you won't have to drain it as often.And the way this works is you have two hoses there. One's going to lead to one side, the other side's gonna lead from your factory PCV. You're going to open this guy up and you'll be able to see what it looks like on the inside. Inside here, on one side, you have a filter, a mesh filter here. Sometimes it's honeycomb. This one's open hold. And it also has what looks like pure steel wool on the inside. It's going to help filter out all of that blow-by and catch it in here before it makes its way into your engine. The other side looks pretty open like that. Now, you basically shut this guy together. It's got an O-ring on the inside to make sure it's got a leak-free seal.Now, when it comes time for routine maintenance, you would typically, for a usual oil separator, you'd have to open this guy up and drain it separately. This takes it a step further to make it a whole lot easier. You don't have to take this guy apart. It's got a purge valve at the bottom. This guy is basically going to thread into the bottom of the oil separator all the way through and you can basically just open that up and hold a catch can at the bottom of it, drain it all out, and shut it. It makes life so easy. So, when it comes time for routine maintenance, no need to take it all apart. That's not something some of the other oil separators or catch cans in the category offer. A lot of time you get to take it all apart.This guy here is going to come in right around 100 bucks. In my opinion, that's a super affordable price to pay for a catch can that's bigger than most and has a lot more features than most at a more affordable cost. It's made from a billet aluminum construction and has a gloss black finish on top to help with corrosion and rust resistance. All the hardware necessary for installation is included. You'll have a couple of brackets included. One thing I do want to mention here is that in order to bolt this up using the brackets, you are going to have to drill two very small holes on the side of your battery tray. It's something that's extremely non-descript. It's not going to affect anything visually. You'll never see it again. It's just an extremely easy thing to knock out in order to get this to bolt-on. If you don't want to do that, you can get a little custom with the bracket tree on how you want to install the oil separator, but that's the proper way laid out in the manual, and that's how I'm going to show you, guys, today. It's got the hoses included in the kit to replace your factory ones along with hose clamps to make sure it's got a leak-free seal.The install, I am going to give a soft two out of three wrenches just because it does require some of that drilling, even though it is extremely, extremely minor. You can tackle it in the driveway at home with about 30 minutes to an hour from start to finish. What do you say we get started? Tools used in the install included an impact gun, a drill, 5/16ths drill bit, 8 and 10-millimeter deep sockets, 19-millimeter wrench, center punch is recommended, and a Phillips head screwdriver.First step here, regardless of what powertrain you're working on, pop your hood and take your engine cover off. For ours, we have to pop up that oil cap. So, I'm just going to take that guy off, lift up on the engine cover, and set it aside. All right. Next up, we can remove the PCV hose on top of that tubing here, the plenum. You're going to pinch the gray locking tab and lift that off. On the other end of that, do the same thing. All right. Next up, we have to remove the hose fittings on the end of the PCV hose that we just took off of the manifold. Now, this requires taking a box cutter or a knife, something sharp, and slitting a relief cut in this barbed fitting. The barbed fitting keeps this really tight. No matter how much you rotate and pull, that thing's not going to come out safely without getting broken.So, you want to take your knife and you wanna make a slit right at the end there, just deep enough and this will pull straight out. Now, on this side, I've already done that. You can see this cut I made. I just used my simple pocket knife, go straight down safely. Make sure you're doing this very safely, straight down like that. And from there, you can pull that straight out. An alternative solution, if you don't want to cut the factory hose, is to pick up fittings like this at your local hardware store instead of reusing the factory one. That way, you don't have to cut this, but we're going to be reusing this guy here from the factory, which requires cutting. So, we took care of this side. I'm going to cut this side now and pull that out, and then we can connect it to the fittings on the factory manifold.Next, we can take those factory fittings and reconnect them. Just make sure you got them on the right sides here. The 90-degree elbow goes on the intake side. Next up, let's attach the purge valve here to the bottom. You're just going to start threading this on by hand. You can use thread tape on there if you want, not completely necessary. Make sure the valve is closed, which is sideways like that. Grab your 19 wrench, and we're gonna tighten this down. You don't need to overtighten it, you just want to get it nice and snug.All right. So, your valve here should be pretty much lined up with those hose fittings. Next up, we can mark our holes where we're going to be drilling to attach this bracket. You're looking at the side of your battery box. You may already have a hole there like we do. In which case, you can use that one hole instead of having to drill both. We're going to mark our hole for the second one. I'm using a center punch for this. You can grab a Sharpie or something similar, this is just going to help guide our drill bit. I'm just going to mark the center of this hole here. Now, we can grab a drill and drill bit and go straight through. Grab your 5/16ths drill bit and drill that hole. All right. We do have another one, but I'm just gonna open it up to 5/16ths.Next, you can take those metal U-nut clips, snap them onto the side, make sure they're threading on the bottom there. Now you can take your bracket, set it over top of that, take the bolts included in the kit, and thread them in. Grab your 10-millimeter deep socket and tighten them down. Next, you can take your oil separator or catch can, set it up to the top with the fittings facing the inside of the truck, and you're gonna take the small Phillips head screws included in the kit and tighten them down to the bracket. These are pretty tiny. You want to try not to drop them into the engine bay. Grab a small Phillips head screwdriver and tighten those down.Now, the hose included in the kit is one long piece. So, you're going to have to cut it. Now, the directions tell you to cut it in half, but I recommend connecting to the top section here, loosely on your oil separator, measuring out to the plenum side, the elbow connector, and see how much you need. If you cut it in half, you're going to be left with a whole lot of excess hose. So, let's measure that out here by hand. That looks about right. So, I'm gonna cut it right here where my thumb is. Grab your knife, scissors, or a wire cutter or something like that and cut it in half. All right. You can do the same thing to the other one and then we'll attach them.All right. So, next up, we can start attaching our hoses. The bottom connector, the bottom fitting on our catch can goes to the valve, the top goes to the intake. I'm going to do the valve section first. You want to insert a hose clamp over the hose and connect it to the fitting on the oil separator. Do the same thing for the other end and connect it to the factory fitting. All right. Now we can connect the hose to the other end and tighten the clamps. Grab a 6-millimeter socket and tighten those down. All right. There you have it. You're good to go. All right. Last step is to pop off that oil cap and throw your engine cover back on if you have one.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Proven Ground C&L Series Oil Separator or Catch Can, available for the Passenger Side of all '11 to '20 F-150s. Get yours right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Proven Ground T543368
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 30 Minutes
Simple installation for anyone.
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