(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Power Stop Performance Front Brake Calipers; Red (07-18 Silverado 1500)
Power Stop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow 6-Lug Brake Rotor and Pad Kit; Rear (07-13 Silverado 1500 w/ Rear Disc Brakes)
Power Stop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow 6-Lug Brake Rotor and Pad Kit; Rear (14-18 Silverado 1500)
It's Joe from AmericanTrucks. And today, we're gonna be taking a closer look at the PowerStop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Rotor and Pad Kit, fitting all '07 to '18 Silverado 1500s. Now, this is gonna be the perfect setup for the Silverado owner that's looking to do some towing and they're looking to take their brake setup to the next level with something that's more aggressive than stock.So what do we have going on here with the Z36? Well, this is gonna be PowerStop's most aggressive pad and rotor setup. This is gonna be designed for the guy that's doing some 4x4ing, some off-roading and a little bit of towing to and from the lake house, the trail, something like that, any extra added weight in the bed, this is designed to hold up to that extra stress and heat generated by brake components by having that extra weight. If you were looking to tone it down a step, the Z23 is gonna be for the daily driver and the Z17 is gonna be for more stock applications. Something like this it's gonna sit at the top of the range a little bit more aggressive than both of those other options.So what do we have that contributes to that? First thing's first, let's dive into the brake pads. Heavy-duty ceramic-carbon fiber brake pads here. So they're gonna be a little bit more quiet than the factory stuff. They're gonna last a little bit longer than the factory stuff and on top of that they're gonna produce less brake dust which helps clean up the wheel well area a little bit.We also have some slotted and drilled 13-inch G3000 rotors. They're zinc plated, which is gonna help keep the rust down, keep these things looking shiny. We also have that slot which is going to help clean up the braking surface a little bit, also vent out any gases generated from that heat. Now speaking about heat, the drilled areas on this, they basically lead right into the venting for the rotor, that's gonna keep the heat away from that braking surface into the venting and away from the braking components which is exactly what you would need in that situation where you're towing something heavy, you're going downhill, you're on the brakes for a long time, this is gonna hold up way better than the factory stuff. This setup also looks really cool as well. The slot and drilled setup definitely is race-car inspired. It does serve some functionality too. If you wanted to complete the look, PowerStop does offer this with some painted red calipers as well.Pricing for this kit, however, is gonna drop in right around 240 bucks. Now keep in mind, this is just the front kit, if you wanted to do the rear, the Z36s are available with a set of railroaders and pads as well but what you're getting in this one, gonna be two front rotors, four front pads, all of the shims you need. You even get some slide pin bellows if those need to be replaced and you get a little packet of grease to help you get the job done. So, all in all, not a bad price to pay and definitely a great upgrade for the front of any Silverado.So next up, let's get to the good stuff. Let me show you how to get these installed on your truck. Now as far that goes, this is gonna be a standard brake job. If you've never done it before, there is a little bit of a process that goes into it. I'm gonna walk you through exactly how it's done. I'm gonna give it a two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. At most, if you come with the right tools, I think this will take you about two hours total. So without any further ado, let me show you what tools you might need and how it's done.Tools we used for this install will include an impact, ratchet, breaker bar, flathead,19-millimeter socket, T30 Torx bit, caliper hanger or bungee cord, wire brush, blue threadlocker, some Brakleen, brake parts lubricant, you do get a little packet of silicone grease in the kit from PowerStop, however, and last but not least a caliper compressor.So the first thing you're gonna do, obviously get the truck jacked up safely, give it a push or two, make sure it's not gonna fall off the jack stands or lift. Then you can take the wheel off, we already did that off-camera so we can jump right into the install. We're gonna need the breaker bar and 19-millimeter socket. We're gonna remove the caliper from our caliber bracket to begin.So we're gonna loosen that one and this one up here. And then we can remove those two. And once you have that done, go ahead and pull off the caliper. Before we hang that up, I'm gonna use a compressor tool to make sure those pistons are gonna go back in, that way we know right now whether or not we have to do a caliper while this is apart. You see they're sliding pretty smoothly, getting them all the way flush. Make sure we're not pinching any rubber there. And that looks pretty good, we can go ahead and hang that up.Next, we're gonna take out the pads, I'm gonna use a small flathead screwdriver to pry that out. Now as this gets to the edge, there's a little release tab right here and there's another one up at the top, you just want to press that down on one side. And you can slide these out. Now we can remove the bracket by also removing these two 19-millimeter bolts back here.So that's caliper and pads taken care of, we've got to get this rotor out of here as well. You can see it's held on with a T30 Torx bolt right there, we're gonna go ahead and break that loose. Hopefully, this rotor doesn't spin on us. Try to hold it still. Now as this is coming out, I can already see that the rotor is moving a little bit and that's a nice sign. Lots of the times, the backside of the rotor top hat will be welded to the hub just via rust. If that's the case, you could run a bolt into one of these two holes right here and sort of break the rotor loose that way or you could throw a lug nut on, hit this with a hammer just to break that rust loose. But once you have that T30 out and the rotor rust broken off, you can go ahead and remove that from the hub.So now that we have everything off of our Silverado, I figured it would be a great time right now to put the old stuff next to our new PowerStops and draw some differences between these two. Like I said earlier, we're moving over to ceramic pads, that's where we're gonna start with our stock comparison here. Now the old stuff, that's gonna be semi-metallic and ceramic is gonna be a decent improvement over that. Ceramic is gonna be a little bit tougher, little bit quieter, you're gonna get a little bit less brake dust as well. And these are a little bit tougher on the rotor but the pad should hold up a lot longer than semi-metallics would.Now they do come with some cons, however, the ceramics, they're gonna take a little bit more time to heat up a couple of break cycles to really get these going and up to temp and then you'll be at maximum braking pressure. Also, as you guys can probably tell, these are gonna be a little bit more expensive than the stock semi-metallic stuff as well, so that's definitely a consideration.Moving on to the rotors, you could see the factory one is gonna be blank while on our new PowerStops we do have the drill and slot. Now that's really an invention from rallying, that was designed to work in wet or muddy climates. And a lot of times with a blank rotor you get a little bit of slip, with the drilled in slotted rotor, not as much. You get that really from initial bite no matter what conditions you're in.Now these are gonna be great for towing as well. When you have a heavy load on your truck, you're going down to downhill, you're gonna have the brakes on for a long time, that is gonna make a lot of heat. Now when you do that, braking components sometimes tend to polish themselves against each other as that rotor is spinning around against the pads, you could sometimes glaze over and that is really going to cut into your braking performance. The slots are gonna help break that up, so it's just gonna break up the contact every time it does what an eighth of a revolution, so that is gonna be an improvement. And the drilled holes on there, they're gonna help with heat dissipation just to really get that heat out and away through the vents of the rotor itself which is gonna help with the braking performance.Drilled and slotted rotors do come with some cons. For what you get in braking pressure, you do lose in sort of the ability to keep these on the road. They do tend to wear a little bit faster, and on top of that, because of the drill and slot, you can't resurface these so they're gonna be replaced more often than a blank rotor.So that's pretty much gonna do it as far as differences go between these two setups. So let's go ahead and grab our caliper bracket, we're gonna get our pads installed and then we can move back to the truck.So here is our caliper bracket. Couple things you want to look at before we do any work on this, take a look at the slide pins, they should bounce back and forth freely. If they are seized up a little bit, you need to make the decision whether or not you can unseize them or if they need to be replaced. Ours are looking perfectly fine, all I'm gonna do for those is I'm gonna pop it out, can see can use some new grease. I'm gonna go ahead and give it a wipe down. Then I'm just gonna use this all around brake parts grease. PowerStop does give you a little packet of silicone grease if you don't have this, but what I'm gonna use is this just because it has a beauty of a brush. And I'm just gonna give that a nice thin line down the side. Now before I go ahead and slide that in, take a look at these rubber bellows here. You want to make sure that they're not dried out, cracked, anything like that. The kit does give you a couple of new ones, four in total, two for each side. If you need to replace those, you can pry them out with a flathead screwdriver and tap that one back into place. Ours look pretty good, so I'm just gonna keep that set in the back pocket if we do need them later on. Since I only did a streamline on that, give it a nice little spin and then press it into place. We can do the same thing for this one.Now there's already a bunch of grease in there already, so I'm gonna go light on what I'm putting in there. You want to make sure you don't add too much, reason being is if that collects at the bottom of the pin here, it'll just basically keep this from going all the way into its slide chamber. So you want to make sure that that's got throw all the way to the bottom. A little bit of suction going on here, but that looks pretty good.The next thing we're gonna do is take our flathead, we're gonna pry out our two metal shims for the pads. Now we've shot a lot of brake videos so this caliper bracket is actually looking pretty clean. One thing I do want to say is if yours is looking a little bit dirty, get the rust out of there with a wire brush, just a quick hit down the side. That'll do it in our case, yours will probably need a tiny bit more work. And we got some new shins here and they are gonna pop in just like the old ones.Now once they're installed, I'm just gonna take a tiny bit of grease and just give that a quick wipe down where our pads are gonna ride. So at this point, we can go ahead and put our pads in. This one is gonna go toward the inside, you know that because of this wear indicator right here. Once this pad gets low enough, that's gonna hit the rotor and make a ton of noise letting you know that your pads are low. So go ahead and drop that in, like so. Now that we have both sides installed, a little bit more grease just for the back of these pads. And no need to go overkill, fine film here is gonna do you just fine. Now before we head back to our truck, always a good idea to wipe down the rotor, little bit of Brakleen and a clean rag should do you just fine, hold it over the trashcan, spray it down and wipe it off.So before we put that on, one thing I do want to mention is this hub can be a little rusty, if you need to hit that with a wire brush, do it so now. And then secondly, you want to make sure you grab the right rotor. You can see this one says that sticker there, front passenger side, that's exactly what you want and then you want that countersunk hole right there to line up with the threaded portion on the hub, you can drop this right in place. And then we can secure the rotor to the hub with the T30 we used earlier.The next thing we're gonna throw in place is that caliper bracket with the pads. And I'm just gonna line that up with the knuckle and then run through our factory bolts. And you want to make sure those are to the factory torque specs. And last but certainly not least, we need our caliper, it's just gonna slide on like so. And once you push those slide pins in, this is gonna get its factory bolts as well.Now, guys, that is pretty much gonna do it for this job, not too bad overall like I said earlier. Before we wrap things up, I do want to state really quickly if you wanted to hit those bolts with a little bit of blue threadlocker, that probably would not be a bad idea. The reason I didn't, we're gonna take this apart in just a minute here. Also, what you want to do before you actually drive your truck out on the street, pump the brake before you move this thing at all. You want to make sure pressure is built up in the system. Otherwise, you're gonna roll into something because your brake pedal is gonna hit the floor the first time you press it. So make sure you refill the pressure in the system before you take this thing for a spin. Last but not least, pop the hood, check the levels in the master cylinder, make sure everything is up to snuff and then you can hit the road.But, guys, that's gonna do it for me, it's also gonna do it for the PowerStop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Rotor and Pad Kit, fitting all '07 to '18 Silverado 1500s. As always, thank you for watching. Keep it right here at AmericanTrucks for all things Chevy.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Designed for Towing. The Power Stop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Rotor and Pad Kit – Front is perfect for the Chevy Silverado 1500 owner who tows, hauls, and goes off-roading with their truck. You’ll have excellent braking power when towing with added weight.
OE Compliant. The OE compliant drilled and slotted rotors are made with G3000 casting. They have superior rust-resistance with the silver zinc dichromate plating. The ceramic carbon-fiber brakes have extreme stopping power. They were designed to provide noise-free and dust-free braking.
Simple Install Process. You will benefit from a brake and rotor kit with a straight forward installation process. Modifications to the rotor are not required. Detailed installation directions are available on the manufacturer’s website. Details regarding the break in procedure are also included. Please see manufacturer's site for information about Break-In Procedure.
Backed by a 3 Year/36,000-Mile Limited Warranty. The Power Stop Brake Rotor and Pad Kit is covered by a 3 Year/36,000-mile limited warranty. It doesn’t cover failures of components due to disc thickness variation (DTV) or normal wear. For more information on this coverage, please visit the manufacturer’s website.
Application. The Power Stop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Rotor and Pad Kit – Front is designed to fit all 2007-2018 Chevy Silverado 1500 models. Corrosion resistant red powder coated calipers are an available option with this kit.
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Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Power Stop K2069-36
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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