(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Merideth: Hey, guys. So, today, we're checking out the MotoFab 2.5-Inch Front, 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit, fitting all 2019 and newer Silverado 1500s, excluding the Trail Boss models. Now, if you're in search of an affordable way to get a functional and good-looking stance for your truck, the best way to do it is with a leveling kit, and this option by MotoFab will be a high-quality choice to take a look into.Now, this kit will lift the front 2.5 inches, getting rid of the factory rake, which will help even out the truck's stance and will lift the rear 2 inches, giving you all-around better ground clearance while also being able to fit a larger wheel and tire inside that wheel well. Now, that will make this kit great for anybody who has their eye on an upgraded tire, up to 33 inches in size, and needs a lift that will accommodate that extra height.Now, not only that, but this Silverado's front-end does hang pretty low, so that 2.5 inches in the front will allow you to clear obstacles that you may have previously come in contact with. Now, the function also comes form and this kit will give your truck that tough-looking stance that you may be looking for for your Silverado. Now, when it comes to the kit itself, this is going to be pretty simple as far as what is included in the kit. You're gonna get two, 1.66-inch spacers for the front that's going to attach to the top of your strut, making this pretty straightforward. I would like to mention that the front spacer does measure out to 1.66 inches, but with suspension geometry and the spring compression, that is what is going to achieve 2.5 inches of lift. So, I would just keep that in mind when you do pull these out of the box.Now, the rear blocks, however, are going to be true to size at 2 inches and will be made of a durable, heavy-duty fabricated steel, making them incredibly strong. Now, speaking of the materials, the front spacers will have a billet aluminum construction, being extremely durable as well as lightweight at the same time. Now, both of those are going to have a nice black powder coat finish to, of course, protect the steel and aluminum underneath from any corrosion, offering a very long lifespan on your Silverado.Now, the kit will also come with all of the hardware that you need, including the longer U-bolt for the back when it comes to the rear leaf spring. Now, when we're talking about price, this kit is gonna come in at right around the $150 mark, again, making it incredibly affordable for a solution for lifting and leveling your truck.Now, what I like about this kit is that it's going to come with both the front and the back not only leveling the front, but it's gonna give you more ground clearance and open up that wheel well, making it a lot more functional. Now, some other choices on the page may only come with the front. They may be a spacer like this or attached to the bottom, or they're going to come with just the rear in some circumstances. Now, when taking a look at the category, you're also gonna see some different solutions for a lift or a level like taller springs or taller struts, as well as taller leaf springs, as well, this keeps it very simple and straightforward when it comes to the build and the installation.Now, overall, I think if you're looking to keep it relatively simple, you're not really looking to swap up your factory suspension, but you do wanna get a boost in height for your truck for looks and capability, then this is going to be a great option. Now, install is gonna be two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about two hours to get the job done with the right hand tools. Now, one of our installers here is gonna walk you through that process step by step. Let's go ahead and get into the install.Man: The tools you're gonna need for this installation include a 1/2-inch air impact gun or a breaker bar, 3/8-inch electric impact gun, 1/2-inch long and short extensions with a swivel socket, 3/8-inch long and short extensions. A 3/8-inch ratchet, 10-millimeter socket, 9-milllimter, 13-millimeter, 14-millimeter, and 17-millimeter deep sockets, 15-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 21-millimeter, and 22-millimeter deep impact sockets, an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a pry bar, 8-millimeter hex head socket, a T40 Torx socket, a drift pin, 15-millimeter, 14-millimeter, and 10-millimeter wrenches, channel locks, and a 21-millimeter wrench or an adjustable wrench.How's it going, everybody? Today, I have a lift leveling kit for the '19 Silverado, and I'm gonna show you how to do the install step by step. So, let's get started. We're at the front driver's wheel well, and I'm gonna start taking apart the suspension components so that I can remove the strut and put the front spacer on. All right. So we're starting by removing the ABS line brackets. There's one here, and we're just gonna fall that down. Just a little tech tip here. I did put a pry bar in here just to hold this up to make it easier to get around in here.So we're using our 10-millimeter socket in order to remove these brackets. Right. And there's a bracket in the back of the knuckle. I know you can't see it on camera, but you can see the position of my hand. It's a 10-millimeter nut, actually, a bolt that's right there. So that's the second bracket. Now I'm gonna add an extension just to make it a little easier to reach some of these. So this is actually the brake line bracket right here, it's a 10-millimeter bolt.All right. And then moving over to the other side is our third ABS bracket, also a 10-mill. And just to make life a little easier, I do like to put the bolts back in place to keep them organized and so we don't lose anything. All right. Moving on, we're gonna go to the ABS sensor itself. Our ABS sensor is right here. Again, a 10-millimeter bolt. Once we take the bolt out, we can remove the sensor and get that line out of the way. And there's one more bracket in the back of the knuckle. It's also a 10-millimeter bolt.And there's actually one more ABS line bracket on the back of the knuckle. And I'm using a 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench to get this one off. There's not enough room for an impact gun here, so you can use a ratcheting wrench, or if you have a 10-mill socket and a ratchet, that'll also work. All right. Now we're moving on to the upper control arm. We have an 18-millimeter nut here. We're gonna remove that using our 18-millimeter deep socket, a swivel, and an extension on the impact gun.You wanna be careful with this because when it does come free, it could spring out. So just be mindful of that. Right. With the control arm free, we're gonna move on to the sway bar end link. Sway bar end link is right here, and there's an 18-millimeter nut holding that on. And I'm gonna use the same setup on my impact gun. So if it does start spinning a little bit, you can put pressure on the end link in order to get the nut the rest of the way off. And if that still doesn't work for you, you can use a 9-millimeter deep socket to hold the end of the end link stud and then a wrench on the nut, and you'll just twist it off using that combination. So our steering linkage nut is right here, and that's a 21-millimeter nut. I'm using a deep socket to clear the stud. Now we wanna remove this from the knuckle. And if it is stuck in there, just use a hammer, either a dead blow or a ball-peen, and hit the knuckle right here in order to jounce this free.So as a quick side note, guys, now, I did lube up everything on my nuts and bolts before I started, which is always a good idea because there is some rust here. However, if you are going to remove the nut from the steering linkage here, just like the sway bar end link, this might spin inside the knuckle. So what you wanna do is take your 21-millimeter wrench, if you have a ratcheting wrench, that would be great. Slide that on and then use your 10-millimeter wrench to hold the stud in place while you use your 21 to remove the nut.Another good idea is to hang up your spindle that way it doesn't hang on the axle, which could potentially pull it out of place. All right. Moving on to our upper strut mount area here, there's a plastic wire bracket that's in the way. So we can pry that up and push it back in order to make some space there. Now we have access to our upper strut mount nuts, and these are 14-millimeter. So, I'm gonna be using a combination of a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench and a 14-millimeter deep socket with a ratchet.All right. So we just need to loosen them up for now, and we'll remove them in a later step. And this is a tight space back here, but I'm gonna attempt to use my 14-mill deep socket just because it's a little tight to get a ratcheting wrench in there. All right. With them loosened up, I'm going to move them all the way to the top of the studs, if you can see this nut here, like this. And should be able to get them all by hand at this point, just go.All right. Now we can move on to the lower strut bolts. Now we're at our lower strut bolts. There's two, one here, one here, and they're both 15-millimeter. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket to remove them. And then there is a retention nut that you probably wanna keep handy. Now, be careful when you are removing the second one because, again, there is tension on this, so it could spring free.Now, my retention nut, since it's kind of old and rusted, is spinning. I'm not able to remove the bolt without holding it in place. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna use my channel locks and hold the nut in place and hit it again with my 15-millimeter. We're almost ready to remove the strut. Couple of little pointers I wanted to give you, one is we did bungee the steering linkage out of the way using a bungee and connecting it to the front bumper.Next, in order to get this out, we have to remove the three nuts that we loosened earlier. With those removed, the strut is free at this point. So what we're gonna wanna do and we might have to do is push down on the knuckle and the lower control arm in order to get this out. If it does start fighting you, you can spin it as well in order to clear the lower portion of it from the lower control arm. So I'm pushing down at the same time as I'm maneuvering the strut around.Okay. So at this point, another thing is you are able to do this by just loosening the tie rod link. But if you're having trouble, like I am, we can actually use a hammer to get this out of the sway bar to make it a lot easier. All right. And with our sway bar end link out, that gives us plenty of room in order to slide the strut out. Now, once this is out, I did unhang it. But like I said before, we don't want it hanging off of our axle. So I'm gonna hang this back up. That's the strut removal process for the front driver side. For the front passenger side, follow the same exact steps.So we have some pre-assembly to do on our spacer before we put it onto our strut. I'm gonna walk you through that step by step. We're gonna use the supplied hardware that comes in the kit. We have three nylon nuts that are 17-millimeter, and then we have three bolts that are 8-millimeter hex head. So what we're gonna do is take our spacer, flip it over, thread the bolts through the backside. And you wanna make sure to do this by hand for at least a few threads first, because if you're gonna use a gun, like I am, you don't wanna cross-thread anything. And we're just gonna lightly tighten these down with the impact gun.All right. With the new studs in place, these will be the studs that we're gonna use once the strut is in. So with those in place, we're gonna align our spacer up with our strut. And there is only one way that this lines up. So you'll know you'll have it on properly when it slides over top. Now, that that's done, we're gonna put our nylon locking nuts on. Again, get a couple of threads on by hand, then use the 17-millimeter socket to tighten them down.And also, for the other one, once you get the other strut out, you're gonna just do the same exact thing for the passenger strut as well. With our spacer on our strut, I'm gonna walk you through the install process, which is pretty much gonna be the same as the uninstall process, just in reverse order. Now, with our spacer on the top of our strut, we're gonna put the strut into place. And with the spacer and the new studs, the orientation of the strut is now 180 degrees. Just a note that I'll have to show you in a future step here. But once we got the top studs lined up and the strut into place, we're gonna take the factory nuts and put them on just a few threads so that we can hang the strut here and have some maneuverability to install the lower bolts.Okay. So, as I was mentioning before, with this spacer on, the strut gets rotated 180 degrees. So, as you can see, it changes the angle of the lower bushing and mounting, so what we have to do is use a drift pin in order to manipulate the lower bushing and mounting points to line up the holes. Another thing I need to mention, and this might happen to you, is that my locking nuts that are on the top here, the tabs broke off of them. So, what I'm going to do is use a through bolt and a nut to secure this on the lower control arm. Okay. So I'm putting my bolt through the top and trying to line it up at least enough so it doesn't go the whole way through and fall past the lower control arm.All right. Now that we got our holes lined up and we got our bolt to fall through the strut hole as well as the lower control arm hole, we're gonna snug that down using a nut. Now, I have this, which is a 15-millimeter nylon locking nut. So I'm gonna snug this bolt all the way down. And I might have to loosen it back up once we go back to the top mount to tighten those down.You could also reuse the factory bolts that go here, and they are a 10x1.5-millimeter thread pitch. So if you have a nut in that thread pitch, you can reuse those. So what we've already done is lowered the truck so we can get our floor jack underneath the lower control arm in order to raise everything up so we can line up our upper control arm ball joint and our steering linkage ball joint in the holes to put the nuts on. I'm gonna go ahead and get started with the steering linkage.And if, as you notice, can't fit it on, you can either spin this to line it up or you can push this in and articulate steering. Line up the hole, put our 21-millimeter nut back on. With that in, we can carefully unhang our knuckle. And if you've jacked the lower control arm up enough, you should be able to push the upper control arm into place and then slide the nut on a few threads. So we got our 18-millimeter nut threaded on. Just a few threads. Like I said, we're just gonna tighten everything down once we get everything lined up.Now we're gonna line up our sway bar end link with our sway bar, get that into place. Take the 18-millimeter nut, thread that on a couple of threads. And now, at this point, if you're still doing the other side, I would leave this loose so that on the other end of the sway bar, you still have enough play to manipulate that in order to get the end link out. Here, I'm gonna tighten down the upper control arm ball joint nut using our 18-millimeter socket, swivel, and extension on our impact. And at this point, we can lower the jack and take that out, and I'm gonna raise the vehicle back up in order to tighten down all the other bolts.All right. With our vehicle back in the air, I'm gonna go ahead and tighten the sway bar end link. And the nut is right here in between the axle and underneath the knuckle. You should be able to get a reference from where my gun's at. Again, if you're doing the other side yet, don't tighten this down yet, leave it loose until you finish up the other side. Next, we're gonna tighten down the steering linkage nut, which is a 21-millimeter.Next, we'll be moving along to the ABS and brake line brackets. Next, we're going to reattach our ABS and brake line brackets, reusing our 10-millimeter bolts. And then make sure this little pin that you can see on the bracket here lines up with the hole in the control arm. And I'm just gonna move along down the ABS line. There's another bracket that goes into the back. And these are all 10-millimeter.Next bracket is right here, right behind the brake rotor. Again, when you're putting these in place, there's this little locating tab that you just wanna make sure is going into the hole on the knuckle. Now, our ABS sensor slides into this hole right here in the knuckle. And then you can hear it click in when the gasket gets seated, 10-millimeter bolt, and the last two brackets for our brake line and ABS line. And this spot's a little too tight for my gun, so I'm using a 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench.One of the final steps is to tighten down our upper strut nuts. So what I've already done is put the tire on, put the truck down on the ground just to load up the suspension in order to tighten these down properly. And these are 14 millimeters. I'm using a deep socket and a ratchet, and I'll probably also need to use a ratcheting wrench. Make sure you're using factory torque specs for all your nuts and bolts. All right. And while we're here, we might as well put our electrical bracket back in place.That completes the install process for this side. I do wanna reiterate, it's a good idea to make sure that all your nuts and bolts are tightened down properly. Once you're finished up and you're ready to do the other side, just follow these same exact steps. Now I'm gonna walk you through the rear installation. I have all my nuts and bolts lubed up already. I suggest you do the same. So let's get started. First thing we wanna do is make sure that our rear axle is supported. As you can see here, I have a jack stand and I also have one on the other side. At home, just use floor jacks.After we have our axle supported, we want to remove all the brackets of our brake lines. I'm gonna start here on the driver side, using a 13-millimeter deep socket. And like before, I'm gonna put my bolts back into place to keep them safe. This is the passenger side, this is also a 13-millimeter. We have three more bolts on top of the pumpkin holding our brake lines into place. These are all 13-millimeter as well. There's the first one, second one is over here, and then I'm gonna move around to the back for the third. And the third bolt on the pumpkin is right here. All right. Let's move on.Next, we're gonna remove the shock mount nuts and bolts using a 21-millimeter socket. And this side is also 21-millimeter. So you can use a wrench. I'm using an adjustable. Make sure the shock comes free, and we can move on to the other side. Same thing on this side, 21-millimeter. I am using a deep socket to clear the bolts. Also, you might need a hammer, dead blow to remove the bolts. If the threads get caught, you can twist them out with your wrench. We're gonna move on to the U-bolts, remove the nuts from these, which are 21-millimeter as well. There is nuts and washers, so make sure you hold onto them both. Once you have all the nuts removed, you can take out the U-bolts. Again, you might need your dead blow hammer for this.Now, let's repeat that on the other side. With all of our U-bolts removed, we're now gonna lower the jack stands enough so that we can fit the spacers in between the axle and the leaf springs. So as we're lowering it, we wanna make sure we're doing it relatively at the same time so that each side of the axle is coming down the same amount of distance. So just keep an eye on it as you're going. So my right side has come down possibly enough. Get the left side down a little more. All right. That looks close, so let's take a closer look.All right. So we lowered it enough to put our spacers in. And there's a couple of things that I want to mention about these spacers. One, there's a keyed pin at the bottom and a hole at the top. And you line those up with the holes in the axle mount and the pin on the leaf springs. Also, they are bigger on one end and smaller on the other end. You wanna make sure that you have the big end out towards the back of the truck and the smaller end towards the front. And now we're gonna put the other side in before we raise this back up.So we've lifted the rear axle up almost all the way in order to put our U-bolts that are supplied with our kit into place. And make sure that they are located in the correct spot on the mount here on top of the leaf spring. With the new U-bolts in place, we can reuse the factory U-bolt bracket and then put on our hardware that is supplied with our kit. So we're gonna use one washer and one nut per stud.All right. Now let's repeat that process on the other side. Okay. Once your axle is as far up as it will go, it's time to tighten the nuts at that point. So, grab a 22-millimeter socket and tighten down the nuts. And same thing here. Just keep an eye on the pin there and make sure it's going into place. So now you can see the space being filled in here and the pin is lined up correctly.Now let's repeat the same steps for this side. So, with the U-bolts all installed and tightened to factory spec, we can now lift the axle the rest of the way up, which we have already done. And we're doing that so that we can line up our struts with our mounts again, and reuse the factory bolts and nuts. And again, these are 21-millimeter. Now we're just gonna repeat the same steps for the other side. Now we're replacing our brake line brackets with the factory 13-millimeter bolts.Merideth: So that is going to wrap it up for my review and the install of the MotoFab 2.5-Inch Front, 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit, fitting all 2019 and newer Silverado 1500s, excluding the Trail Boss models. For more videos and products, just like this, remember to always keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Added Performance and Style without the Hassle. Get hassle-free style and performance with the MotoFab 2.50-Inch Front/2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit. This kit will efficiently lift your front and rear by 2.50 inches and 2 inches, respectively. The result is better ground clearance, enabling you to negotiate tougher trails while running larger tires. Additionally, this kit will also level out your front to rear for an aggressive stance.
Brawny Strut Spacers. This leveling kit provides its 2.50 inches of front lift via a pair of strut spacers. These spacers are designed to mount on your struts’ cap end without the need for you to disassemble the springs. Meanwhile, these spacers’ brawny billet aluminum construction offers extreme durability in a relatively lightweight form. What’s more, these strut spacers receive a chip-resistant black powder-coat finish for superior corrosion protection.
Hefty Lift Blocks. This kit lifts your rear using a pair of steel lift blocks. What makes these blocks special is that they are fabricated rather than cast, making them extremely resistant to compression forces. Moreover, these blocks are finished in the same tough black powder coating as the strut spacers for effective corrosion protection as well as a uniform look.
Convenient Install Procedure. The strut spacers and lift blocks are designed to mount onto factory locations on your truck. No modifications, drilling, or cutting are necessary, which makes for a fairly convenient install. Also, installation is completed using standard hand tools.
Includes a Limited Lifetime Warranty. This MotoFab leveling kit includes a limited lifetime warranty against factory defects. Please visit the manufacturer’s website for more details.
Application. The MotoFab 2.50-Inch Front/2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit fits all 2019-2022 4WD Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models, excluding the Trail Boss.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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