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MotoFab 2.50-Inch Front Leveling Kit (04-23 2WD/4WD F-150, Excluding Raptor)

Item T537266
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$67.99 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, what's up, guys. Ryan here from AmericanTrucks, and today I'm here with the MotoFab 2.5 inch Front Leveling Kit, fitting your 2004 to 2019 two-wheel and four-wheel drive F150 models, excluding those Raptors. This is for the F150 owner that is looking to lift and level out that factory stance, getting rid of that factory rake for a very affordable price. Now, your truck comes from the factory with that nose-down look. And when you add larger bumpers and winches, that's gonna make it even worse. Now, a leveling kit is going to lift that front end back up, leveling it out, and it's gonna give you a more aggressive stance and much more appealing over that stock look. Now, of course, this is gonna give you some additional ground clearance and allow you to stuff larger tires in there allowing you to fit up to a 33-inch tire. Ultimately, this is gonna increase the capability of your F150 bringing that vulnerable drivetrain a little bit further off of the ground, and, of course, giving you a little bit better of an approach angle over that stock suspension.Now, this is a direct bolt-on. That spacer is gonna bolt right on top of that stretch, so there's no modification that we need to do to get this installed on the truck. And since we are utilizing that factory strut, of course, you're gonna maintain ride quality somewhat to some degree. These are made from high grade billet aluminum, and they are machined and designed for a perfect fit. Of course, that billet aluminum is gonna provide plenty of corrosion protection and long-lasting durability. These are designed to last you a lifetime, and of course, they're not gonna crack or fade over time. Now, they're coated in a very nice black powder coating that's gonna add to that corrosion protection, and they're gonna blend right into your factory suspension. Now, options for a front spacer leveling kit are gonna range anywhere from $60 all the way up to $200. And this one's gonna be the most affordable option we currently offer on our site coming in right around at $61. Now, of course, since we are dealing with suspension and we're dealing with a very heavy vehicle, I am gonna give this a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. However, you can expect to get this done in about two hours, and all you need is basic hand tools. So, with that being said, let's hop in to our install.Tools we used for this install: Wire cutters, channel locks, pry bars, torque wrench that goes up to 150 foot-pounds, 3/8 drive ratchet, 18-millimeter socket, socket extensions, 21-millimeter socket, 19-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter socket, 17-millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket, 13-millimeter socket, a 10-millimeter socket, an 8-millimeter socket, 5/16 Allen key, 5-millimeter Allen key, 1/2-inch drive impact, 3/8 drive impact, a hammer, and a dead blow hammer.All right, guys. So, we're getting ready to start with the installation of this. Now, the nice thing about this kit, we only have to work on the front. We're just gonna be adding spacers up top. And of course, there's a ton of stuff that we need to take apart. Now, you can do this on a lift. You see that I have my truck on the lift, and of course, it's gonna make it a lot easier. But for you guys at home, you can do this on the ground. You wanna chock those rear wheels, lift up the truck, support it with jack stands, and of course, pull your wheels and tires off. Now, I already have the truck set up. We already have the wheels and tires off, so we are going to jump right into the install. Now, as far as instructions go, the instructions that come with this kit, they're gonna have a lot less steps. What we have here, we have a four-wheel drive truck, and of course, we have a CV axle on the backside of this.Now, it's gonna be pretty hard to get this strut out, let alone add a spacer and then get it back in while that shaft is still in there without messing it up. And we really need to swing this lower control arm down as well with the steering knuckle. So, I'm gonna show you a ton of other stuff that we're gonna actually gonna take apart. And that's gonna make it a lot easier. Of course, it's gonna add more steps to it. But in the end, it's gonna make it a lot easier, we're gonna be able to get this whole thing done. So, I'm gonna grab some tools, and then we'll get started.All right. So, the first thing that we are going to do, we're gonna take off this dust cap for our four-wheel drive. So, you can just take a pair of vise grips, or channel locks, and we're just gonna pull that cap off. All you got to do is just wiggle it back and forth, and that should come off with you. You wanna set that aside and put it in a safe space. Now, what we're gonna do next, we're gonna take off this nut right here. We're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket. And of course, same thing, we're going to retain this nut, so you wanna put it in a safe spot. Then we'll move to the next step. So, next thing we're gonna do, we're gonna work on getting these brakes off. We need to disconnect this upper ball joint eventually. And of course, with this spindle, we have a ton of swing and weight and we really don't want that. Before we get our brakes completely off, we have some lines over here, we have our brake line, and we have a very delicate ABS line. So, we're actually gonna take these two bolts out here, that's gonna free that up and then we'll work on getting these breaks off.So, you're gonna have two bolts right here on this side of the spindle. One is going to be an 8-millimeter and the other one is gonna be a 10-millimeter. And if you are like me and you tend to lose hardware, you can screw those right back in those holes if you want to. So, the next thing we're gonna do now that we have these lines freed up, we're actually gonna take our caliper off with our caliper bracket. Now, we're not gonna take these two bolts out. These bolts actually hold the caliper to the bracket. We're gonna take these two large bolts out here. That's what holds it to our spindle or steering knuckle. So, these are gonna be 21-millimeter bolts, so you'll need a 21-millimeter socket. I'm gonna use an impact to get these out. Before you get this off, you wanna have a bungee or a zip tie ready, so we can just swing and hang this out of the way.So, what we're gonna do, we got a hole right here through a caliper bracket, what we're gonna do is just take a zip tie or bungee, anything you got, and we're just gonna hang it from one of the brackets over here. So, while we're over here, the next thing we're gonna do is disconnect our sway bar end link. So, what you're gonna need to do is take an 18-millimeter wrench, put it around the nut just like that. Then you take an 8-millimeter socket, put it on the end of that, and then you can unscrew it. You don't need to disconnect it from the top, all we have to do is just disconnect it from that control arm, that way we can lower the control arm now. So, next thing we're gonna do, we're gonna come back outside and we're gonna take our rotor off, this dust shield, and then our ABS line that's located underneath of it. This is just gonna slide right off. So, you can just pull that off, and we're gonna take an 8-millimeter socket, we're gonna take all three of these screws to get this dust shield off.So, now we've got all that stuff out of the way, you can see exactly where the sensor is located. We have a bolt right here, we'll need to use a 5-millimeter Allen to get that bolt out, then we're gonna pull that sensor out and set it aside. Now, one thing I wanna mention is, if you have a ton of dirt, sand, etc., around here, you wanna clean that area really good because when we pull that sensor out, we don't want any of that crud to fall in that sensor hole. Once we get that bolt out, we're gonna wiggle the sensor back and forth, pull that out, then we're gonna just set that aside. Next, we're gonna disconnect our tie rod right here at the end of our steering knuckle. You're gonna need a 21-millimeter socket to get this nut off. Once you get that nut off, what you're gonna do is just smack the steering knuckle. Don't smack the tie rod, don't crush the boot, then we'll just pull that out of there. Set that aside.So, the next thing we're gonna do, we're gonna disconnect our upper control arm from our spindle. So, you're gonna need an 18-millimeter socket or wrench to crack this nut free. What we're gonna do, we're gonna get this nut all the way off, we're gonna put it back on a few threads, and then we're actually gonna break this free. The reason you wanna make sure that this comes all the way off is that way, when you do crack it free, you're not gonna spin that ball joint inside of there, and it's not gonna get stuck on there. Then we're gonna take our hammer, and same thing, we're gonna smack the steering knuckle right here, this upper control arm mount. We're not actually going to smack this and we don't wanna hit this boot either. I'm gonna smack right here on this metal surface, and that's gonna crack that free.After that, we're just gonna take a pry bar, we're gonna stick it in one of these springs right here, push down on this upper control arm just a little bit. We'll take that nut the rest of the way off, and then we can let this control arm up. Now, we don't want this to fall forward at all, so you wanna keep that spindle pushed back because we still have to disconnect our four-wheel drive down here. Okay. So, on the backside of this four-wheel drive, you're gonna have these lines right here. These are for our vacuum disconnect. There's actually a diaphragm inside of here. So, you wanna be very careful when you're taking this apart, you don't mess up that rubber O-ring, or anything inside of that. These are gonna pull off just like that.Once you get those off, what we're gonna do, we're gonna swing this down. And while we're doing that, we're actually gonna push this out a little bit. So, we want this to come all the way down just like that. And we don't wanna separate the internals from these. These have ball bearings inside. So, we wanna do that, have it sitting right there. And now the next thing we're gonna do, we're actually gonna disconnect the bottom of this. We have two nuts down there that we have to get off so we can push this control arm down. So, the bottom of the strut underneath of the lower control arm, you're gonna have these two studs sticking down. These are for the bottom of the strut. You're gonna use an 18-millimeter socket to get both of those nuts off. Now, the control arm does have a lot of tension on it and this is actually gonna hold it up in the air, so it's not really gonna drop down or fall anywhere.So, the next thing we're gonna do, we're gonna get this four-wheel drive axle out of this spindle. To do this, I'm gonna need someone to pull down on this lower control arm, and that way I'll have enough length and room to get the shaft out of there. So, before we move on to the next step, I just want to reiterate the importance of making sure that you don't mess up that diaphragm. Inside of here on the backside of this is a very sensitive diaphragm, it has a lot of rubber O-rings and, of course, it is made of rubber, and you wanna make sure that you don't drag this end of this spindle, this four-wheel drive shaft across that because you can mess that up and that's gonna mess up your four-wheel drive.Now, if you don't feel comfortable with doing all this, taking apart that axle, putting it back together, making sure that it locks and unlocks, I honestly recommend seeking professional help. Now that we got all of that stuff out of the way, the last thing we have to do to get this strut assembly out, we have to take off these top three nuts. So, what I'm gonna do, I'm gonna use a ratchet with an 18-millimeter socket. We'll get all three of those off. I'll have someone once again pull down on this whole assembly, and that way we can get this whole thing out and attach our spacer. Now, if you want it to take forever, you can use a box wrench up here or you can use a shallow head 18-millimeter socket on a ratchet. That's gonna make it a lot faster.Now, you wanna save these three nuts because we are gonna be reusing them. And the nice thing is, since this is captured in here, once we loosen up these three, it's not really gonna fall out of the vehicle, so we can take our time, grab a second set of hands and get this thing out. We're gonna get this out the same way that we're going to get it in. We're actually gonna lower this down, and we're gonna tip the top out. So, what I'm going to do is take a long pry bar and then stick it up in between here in the strut tower. I'm actually gonna pry this upper control arm up and out of the way. And that's gonna give me a little more room when I go to tip this thing out. After that, I'm gonna get someone to pull down on the lower control arm, and then we'll tip this thing out. So, once it's tipped out like this, we're gonna take our pry bar, go in here because it's probably not just going to wiggle out all by itself. And we're gonna pry this out of the lower control arm.So, now that we have our strut out, the next thing we're gonna do, we're gonna work on getting this spacer installed on top of the strut. Now, you're gonna notice on this spacer, it's gonna have threaded holes on one side. And what that is for is to screw in these new studs. These are gonna be the studs that actually poke up through the strut tower. And what we're gonna do, we're gonna go through the backside of this so that this threaded hole is flush, and we're gonna thread these in. Once we get them threaded in, we're actually going to attach it onto the strut. This is the first thing we're gonna do. So, what we're gonna do is just take these bolts, like I said, from the backside on that recessed side. We're going to thread all of these in, then we'll take our impact, and we'll run them in tight. So, we're gonna take a 5/16 Allen, and we're just going to run these in. You wanna make them pretty tight, and you can also put some Loctite on there if you want to.So, once we get those in, we're ready to attach it onto our strut. So, now we're ready to attach the spacer onto the strut. I'm actually gonna switch out our bit. So, we're gonna switch to a 17-millimeter. And the way this is gonna attach, you're gonna have three mounting points just like the three studs here. This is only gonna go on one way. You're gonna have two that are slightly closer, so what we're gonna do is just set that on there. And they give you brand new nuts to install, and these are nyloc nuts. Now, this is gonna be the tricky part is trying to get that on there. What actually I'm gonna do is I'm gonna stand this up, that way I can drop the nuts on there and then use a socket to get these started. So, I'm gonna take our 17-millimeter in the impact and we'll just get these started.All right, guys. So, once you get that spacer on, what we're gonna do is torque those nuts down to 45 foot-pounds and then we're ready to toss this back in the vehicle. Like I said, the same way that we got this out, we're gonna get it back in. We're gonna pull down that lower control arm, set these bottom little studs in, and then, of course, we're gonna pry up on that upper control arm and try to fish this thing back into place. So, let's get started. Now, when you put the strut back in, you are going to have to spin it 180 degrees. So, just make sure that you're lining up those top holes with the holes on the strut tower. And we're gonna set this bottom part in first. All right. So, the first thing you're gonna do, grab a second person. Second thing you're gonna do, you're gonna take your pry bar, same thing, we're gonna go up between that upper control arm and that strut tower. And you wanna get that control arm way out of the way. After that, you're gonna have someone pull down on that as hard as they can. And you might wanna get a rather large friend.Now, the bottom is gonna resist you, but you wanna get that all the way in and then they can let up on that. And that's gonna set that in place. Now, we still have to fully set it, and we have to get those studs that come up through the top. So, I'm gonna go get some other tools, and then we'll get that thing squared away. So, you're gonna need to move this thing around a little bit and get those studs that go through that strut tower. So, what you're gonna do is just move it back and forth with a pry bar. Of course, you don't wanna scratch the finish on the actual spacer. And then what I found out, there's an easy way to get this in, is just take the butt end of the hammer, we're just gonna smack this back.So, now we have the strut in, you can see the studs are sticking up through there. So, we're gonna start putting everything back together. Actually, I'm gonna start with these nuts up here in that way. Now, the tension of the rubber bushings on the lower control arm are gonna basically push this thing up in the air. So, you should have plenty of threads sticking up to get these nuts started, and then tighten them up. Once we get all three of those on, we'll start tightening them up and we're gonna reuse that 18-millimeter socket that we used to take them off. So, we got the top of that strut squared away. Before we get the bottom installed, we have to get this back in because once we get those nuts back on, we're not gonna be able to get this back in. So, pull this down a little bit. You wanna make sure that you go in the middle of that diaphragm and that you don't scrape this outer ring. So, now we have this in, we're gonna get the bottom nuts on the strut. So, we're just gonna install these factory nuts back on these two studs. Once we get those on, we'll use that 18-millimeter socket to run those all the way up. Then you want to torque these to 66 foot-pounds, and the nuts that we installed on top, you wanna torque those to 50 foot-pounds.All right. So, the next thing we're going to do, we're gonna support our lower control arm because we need to push up on this, compress the suspension so we can get our upper control arm in. So, what you wanna do since we have that four-wheel drive axle in there, you wanna lift this up just a little bit, and that way we can slide our jack in. What we wanna do is we just wanna capture the edge of this control arm right there, that way we have a good point where it's not gonna go slipping off. Once we have that captured right there on the edge, you can let go of that steering knuckle and we can start pressing up on the suspension.So, we have the suspension compressed as much as it'll go without pushing the truck up off of the lift. And the next thing we're gonna do, we're actually gonna tilt this back so we can get this upper control arm in. Now, that's gonna be pretty tricky. And while we're doing that, since this is a four-wheel drive model, we need to get this CV half shaft to go through. So, what we wanna do is while I'm pushing this up, we wanna fish this through and wiggle it into place, but you wanna be very careful. So, we're gonna need to tilt down on this, and you're gonna see that the shaft is gonna poke out of this little bearing in the front. And while we're doing that, we wanna tilt this whole assembly and try to get it to work its way through there.So, once this goes all the way in, you'll have no gap behind there between the CV boot and that aluminum collar, and also you're gonna have a little bit of a flat spot. All the way down the threads, you'll have this base. And when that meets up flush with the end of this little bearing inside, that's all the way in. So, what we're gonna do, we're gonna work on getting our upper control arm in now. Now, after you get the CV axle boot in, the next thing you're gonna do, you're gonna make sure that you hold this spindle backwards because we don't want it to fall out and dislodge that CV axle. Now, what you're gonna need to do next, we're gonna use two pry bars. I'm gonna get underneath the upper control arm and the spring and I'm just going to walk my way down.Once you get far enough, you're gonna aim that ball joint in the top of the spindle. So, after you get the ball joint to go in the top of the spindle, we're gonna put that nut on. And then what we're gonna do, we're gonna get an impact on a long extension and we'll tighten that up. So, that's gonna hold itself in place for now. So, once again, you're gonna want two people for this step. What we're gonna do, we wanna push this control arm down into the spindle because we don't want the ball joint to move while we're tightening this up. What we're gonna do, we're gonna take an 18-millimeter on a long extension so we can get underneath of the control arm. I'm gonna hold this down with my friend Tony. Go ahead and get this thing tight. I'm gonna throw the tie rod back in so that the spindle doesn't move. So, I'm gonna torque this nut down. I'm gonna take an 18-millimeter, we're gonna torque it to 85 foot-pounds.So, the next thing we're gonna do, drop our tie rod back in. We'll use a 21-millimeter socket to tighten it up. And then after that, we can torque it to 85 foot-pounds. All right. So, the next thing we're gonna do, we're gonna drop our ABS sensor back in there. You wanna make sure that you don't have any dirt in that little sensor hole. Drop that back in and we'll reinstall that little Allen head screw. After the ABS sensor is in, we can put our dust shield on for our brakes and reinstall those three factory bolts. And when you're all done, you can torque them to 14 foot-pounds. So, use that 8-millimeter to tighten them up. Make sure that that is not crushing the ABS line, and then we're gonna throw our rotor back on.Next, we're gonna cut the zip tie that's holding our caliper and bracket. Make sure that we do not twist this line when we go to put this back on. And then we're gonna slip this onto our rotor. After that, we're gonna line these holes up. We'll take those factory bolts. You wanna put a little bit of Loctite on these. After you do that, we're gonna reinstall them. Once you get those bolts started, we'll use that 21-millimeter to tighten these bolts up. And after that, you wanna torque both of those to 145 foot-pounds. After that, we can reconnect our lines to our spindle and just reinstall those factory bolts. And then we'll use that 8-millimeter and 10-millimeter to tighten them up.So, the last line we have to connect is going to be this vacuum line. So, that's gonna go right on these two fittings up top. One is gonna be larger than the other one, so it's only gonna fit on one way. Push that all the way down, make sure that it's on. And then while we're over here, we're gonna reconnect our sway bar end link. We'll use the 18-millimeter wrench and an 8-millimeter socket. So, to get that nut tightened up, we're gonna torque it to 50 to 55 foot-pounds. All right. So, the last thing we have to do, we have to put this nut back on on the axle, and we have to torque that down, then put that dust cap on. Now, you're gonna see that there is a flanged edge at the bottom of these threads. And like I said earlier, you wanna make sure that that is flush with that bearing inside. So, we're going to take this nut. It has a little bit of Loctite on the inside, we're gonna take a 15-millimeter socket, we're gonna run that down, and then we'll torque it to 35 foot-pounds. Now, to put this dust cap on, all you have to do is just line it up, tap it real gently with a hammer so it seats all the way, then you're all done.All right, guys. So, now that we have this side completely reinstalled and put back together, you wanna make sure these four-wheel drive actuators are actually working properly. So, when the vehicle is off and these do not have any vacuum to this vacuum line, this is actually going to lock. So, this is gonna lock with that four-wheel drive shaft and this is not going to move. Now, what you can do is you can go inside, start your truck up. And after you start your truck up, what it's gonna do is you're gonna apply vacuum to that. That's gonna unlock that internal four-wheel drive actuator, and you'll actually be able to spin this rotor all the way around without that four-wheel drive shaft moving. You wanna make sure that's working properly. After that, you can shut the truck off. You'll hear the whole system depressurize, and of course, this is gonna lock back up. Now, of course, we have this side completely put back together. You can utilize that same exact process to get that other side installed. And of course, when you're completely done, you wanna put those wheels and tires back on, throw it on the ground, torque them back to factory specs, and, of course, take your truck and go get an alignment. We did mess with the suspension. We added spacers up on top of those struts, so, of course, we messed that up, and the last thing you wanna do is wear those tires out prematurely.However, that is going to wrap up my review and install. For more videos and products like this, check us out at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • 2.5 in. Front Leveling Kit
      • Levels Truck to Improve Appearance and Handling
      • Increases Front Ground Clearance
      • Billet Aluminum Strut Spacers
      • Bolt-On Installation
      • Lifetime Limited Warranty
      • Fits 2004 to 2023 Ford F-150 2WD and 4WD Models, Excluding Raptors


      Improves Your Truck’s Stance. Leveling your truck eliminates the nose-down rake for a more appealing stance and better handling. If your truck has heavy accessories like bumpers and winches or if you want a slight front lift, the MotoFab 2.5 in. Front Leveling Kit is a great choice. It features a pair of heavy-duty strut spacers that provide a true 2.5 inch lift. Furthermore, using the lift kit doesn’t affect the factory ride quality.

      Billet Aluminum Strut Spacers. Unlike other strut spacers made from welded metal, these spacers are CNC-machined from high-grade billet aluminum. This makes them extremely strong and durable, without the risk of cracking over time. Additionally, they’re powder-coated black to match your suspension and to improve durability.

      Straightforward Installation. The 2.5 in. Front Leveling Kit doesn’t require drilling, cutting, or even disassembling your strut/coilovers. Installation can be completed within a couple of hours.

      Covered by Lifetime Limited Warranty. MotoFab is dedicated to customer satisfaction and provides a 100% satisfaction guarantee and a lifetime warranty for the 2.5 in. Front Leveling Kit.

      Application. The MotoFab 2.5 in. Front Leveling Kit is designed to fit 2004 to 2023 Ford F-150 2WD and 4WD models, excluding Raptors.

      Shop All Truck Parts And Accessories

      Shop All Truck Leveling Kits

      Shop All Truck Lift Kits



      MotoFab F150-2.5

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Strut Spacers
      • Installation Hardware

      Customer Reviews (396)

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        Will It Fit My F-150

        • 2.7L V6 EcoBoost - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 3.0L V6 Power-Stroke - 18, 19, 20, 21, 22
        • 3.3L V6 - 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 3.5L V6 - 15, 16, 17
        • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost - 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost Limited - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost Raptor - 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 3.5L V6 PowerBoost - 21, 22, 23
        • 3.7L V6 - 11, 12, 13, 14
        • 4.2L V6 - 05, 06, 07, 08
        • 4.6L V8 - 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10
        • 5.0L V8 - 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 5.2L V8 Supercharged Raptor - 23
        • 5.4L V8 - 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10
        • 5.4L V8 Raptor - 10
        • 6.2L V8 - 11, 12, 13, 14
        • 6.2L V8 Raptor - 10, 11, 12, 13, 14

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