(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$34.90 (kit)FREE Shipping on orders over $75
Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com, and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the MotoFab 2-Inch Front Leveling Kit available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. You should be checking this out for your own Silverado if you're looking to lift up the front end to add 33-inch tires comfortably without any rubbing or cutting or any other modification, while also giving your truck a leveled stance appearance. At the same time, you get a little bit of an additional ground clearance at the front end.This is the 2-inch option for MotoFab, which is the perfect amount of space to make your truck look completely leveled, getting rid of that factory rake. Now, if you're not familiar with what that means factory rake is essentially the way that this truck sits coming off the factory line. The front nose is down a little bit with the rear end just a little bit higher which is beneficial for towing applications. Now, if you're not really towing and hauling all that much with your truck, you might wanna get rid of that rake to get a better appearance. Most guys think it looks a lot more attractive and you can get that done with this kit. Now, we all know adding bigger wheels and tires to your truck because of those square wheel wells can be pretty difficult. Having 2 inches of additional clearance at the front end can Now that without any modification to fit it comfortably. Now, if you're looking to fit up to 35s, you're gonna wanna look at some bigger lift kits, something around 6 inches without needing to cut anything in the wheel well. Now, this one from MotoFab, as you can see is a bottom strut spacer. Some of the other options in the category are round spacers that fit at the top of your struck tower. This style isn't gonna make any difference to performance, it's just a different method of lifting the front into your truck. Now, this guy is still gonna maintain the stock quality ride which means that you don't have to worry about it being any more rugged. You don't have to worry about it being uncomfortable, it's still gonna be factory quality, and you're gonna keep all of your CV angles in check, your suspension geometry is still the same.Now, this guy here is a billet aluminum construction meaning it's super strong and it's got a durable black powder coating on top of it to add to its corrosion and rust-resistant. So it's gonna last a little bit longer and it just blends in a little bit more with the suspension and won't stick out like a sore thumb if you're ever looking at the underbody of the truck. It comes with all new hardware so you're not gonna be reusing factory stuff, this is perfectly spaced out and long enough to fit the additional height.Now, the kit is extremely affordable, shockingly affordable if I might add, comes in right around 35 bucks. I actually think it might be a little bit more expensive to lift an RC car than your actual truck. Now, the install here is gonna get two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, anybody can tackle it in the driveway at home with right hand tools. There's no modification needed, no drilling, no cutting, no nonsense, you're not even gonna need a spring compressor, no need to take the coilover apart. This is gonna go right underneath of the factory struct between that and the lower control arm. Now, of course, taking apart your suspension can be dangerous if not done correctly. So, if you're not comfortable tackling it yourself, you can spend a little bit more money by getting it done by a professional shop of your choice. It'll take you about two, maybe three hours from start to finish depending on your personal experience. I'll walk you through the whole process, let's get started.All right, tools used this install include an impact gun, I also used air tools that makes life a whole lot easier. Hammer, extension, 10, 15 and 22-millimeter deep sockets, flathead screwdriver, 15-millimeter wrench, definitely recommend an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and a pry bar.First step is, of course, to get your wheel out of the way, we're starting on our driver side here at the front end. Grab an impact gun, and the first thing we're gonna do here is remove the 10-millimeter bolt holding on the bracket for the ABS line to the hub, and on the upper control arm, the brake line bracket, [inaudible 00:03:13] also a 10-millimeter. So, grab your 10 socket and get to work.All right, so the first 10-millimeter's right here. And what I like to do is take that bracket off and put the 10-millimeter right back in that spot so we don't lose it. Second one is on the right side of our upper control arm, get that out of the way and do the same thing. Remove the bracket, put that 10 right back in there. Now, what I also like to do is just disconnect that clip right here just to remove some of the slack on the ABS line. Gonna go back and forth to wiggle this guy out. All right, so now follow your ABS line back up next to the upper control arm bolt. You'll see that there's another clip up here. We're gonna remove this just to give us some more slack, you wanna remove as much tension from the brake lines as you can. All right, so next, we're gonna remove the top nut from our sway bar end link, so grab a 15-millimeter deep socket go to the bottom bolt head underneath of the lower control arm.All right, so the next step is gonna be pretty tough, you have to remove the upper control arm nut that connects the upper control arm to the spindle. Now, there's not a lot of room here for ratchet and socket. So, what I recommend doing is grabbing an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, you can use a regular wrench, this just makes life easier. I'm gonna work this guy off. Then the upper control arm is gonna be stuck in here, the ball joint itself will be stuck inside of the spindle. So, we're gonna leave the nut on a couple of threads and grab a hammer and knock up against this to dislodge it. Now, what I like to do is just unthreaded by hand as much as we can back down to maybe like the first or second thread just to have this guy on a little bit so it catches and doesn't fall out when we knock it loose. Now, before we knock the upper control arm ball joint loose, let's remove the tie rod end. So, grab a 21-millimeter deep socket and your impact gun and knock this guy loose. For this, grab your hammer and you're gonna knock this loose as well. All right, once you break that loose, bring it up and out of its position and then put the nut back on it for safekeeping.All right, so now we wanna use our hammer to knock this loose. Now, you don't wanna hit the upper control arm, you don't wanna risk damaging the ball joint, hit directly on the side of the spindle there. All right, so now we have this broken loose, you can see this big gap here. We're gonna take a pry bar and I'm gonna stick it under one of the coils and pry down on the upper control arm and then go from underneath and loosen the nut all the way off. All right, so once you have that off, slowly bring it back supporting the front rotor. From here we'll come down. All right, next up, we're gonna take off the two bottom struct bolts, they're two 15 millimeters. Keep in mind guys when you do this, on the second one that you do, the lower control arm is gonna start coming down. Now, you don't really need to pole jack under it, just take it slow so it doesn't drop down too quickly and it'll catch itself.All right, so now we're focusing on the three top strut nuts. Now, two of the three we can see have this harness clip on it, so we have to remove those. Your third one might, it looks like ours was on there but it popped off at some point. So, grab a pry bar or you can also use a flathead, I just find this to be easier. And we're just gonna pop off this harness clips. All right, so there's one and the other one's in the back there. Perfect. Now you can grab an 18-millimeter wrench, I'm gonna use a ratcheting wrench again, and we're gonna loosen up these nuts. Now, you don't have to completely remove your strut, just loosen these guys up, I'd say like 75% of the way on the stud and we'll have enough play in there to put the spacer in. All right, so now we have enough play in the strut at the bottom to put our spacer in. Now, at the bottom of your strut, we have factory nut clips that holds on your factory bolts. Since we're no longer using the factory bolts, we have longer ones in the kit, we got to pop these guys off. So, grab a flathead, go from underneath and we're basically just gonna pry up until it pops off. All right, so at this point, the spacer is gonna go in from the back just like this. And your new hardware is gonna go from top-down to connect it. Now, you may need to lift up on the lower control arm to get the nut on the opposite end. Make sure you have a spacer or washer on the top end and on the bottom. All right, so we're just getting a couple of threads on that nut and then do the same thing on the other one. All right, at this point, grab a 15-millimeter wrench and socket, tighten them down.All right, so the spacer kit's done, we just have to put everything back together. So, let's take the nut off of the tie rod end, let's lift up the spindle, drop the tie rod back in place and then put the nut back on. And we don't have to tighten this down just yet, we just wanna get it in place. Next we can move on to the upper control arm. All right, so next step, we actually lowered our truck down toward the ground. And we have a floor jack, a hydraulic floor jack in place underneath of the lower control arm. What we're basically gonna do, and what the idea here is, we're gonna jack up the lower control arm so we can bring this up and push our upper control arm down so the stud goes all the way through. So, let's get the nut out of the way. You wanna keep this nearby. So just put it on the ground right next to you. So, right now we're gonna jack this up. All right, so it might be a little trial and error so let's grab our pry bar and see how far down we can go. All right, so you're basically just trying to get the thread through the bottom here, enough to get the nut on. All right, so once you can pry this down enough, get that nut on and you can let go bring it back up in the air.All right, so next step here, we're gonna start tightening things down, we'll start with our upper control arm ball joint. Grab your 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench or whatever you're using to get this done and tighten it up. All right, so now you can grab your 21-millimeter deep socket and tighten down your tie rod end. All right, so now grab your sway bar end link nut, make sure the stud is all the way through, number one, you can kind of manipulate that from the bottom too if you need to. So, grab your nut, put it on there a couple of threads, grab your 15 wrench and socket and tighten it down. Next up, grab your 18 ratcheting wrench again and tighten down the three top nuts at the strut tower. All right, from there, you can reattach those harness clips. All right, last couple of steps here guys, we're gonna reattach our ABS line bracket and our brake line bracket. So, I'm just gonna unthread this nut here, or this 10-millimeter bolt, thread it back on, do the same thing on the upper control arm. And then you can reconnect those clips.At this point, guys, you wanna grab a torque wrench, look up your torque specs for your specific model. Sometimes the arranges are slightly different. So, you wanna go back and torque down your tie rod end, your upper control arm bolt. You wanna make sure the strut bottom bolts are tight as well as the top ones. Just make sure you're safe and secure. At that point, repeat the exact same process on the opposite side on your passenger side and then you're good to go.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the MotoFab 2-Inch Front Leveling Kit for all '07 to 18 Silverado 1500s. You can get your set right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Increase Your Ground Clearance. Raise the front end of your Silverado by 2 inches with this MotoFab Front Leveling Lift Kit. This kit enables you to increase ground clearance, which helps protect against off-roading hazards such as rocks and gravel, and it gives your Silverado a more aggressive look.
Dependable Materials. You can depend on the spacers in this front leveling lift kit because they’re crafted from strong billet aluminum. They have a black powder coat finish, which safeguards against rust and corrosion. Like all MotoFab products, this front leveling lift kit delivers dependable performance for all conditions.
Quick Installation. There’s no strut/coil disassembly required to install this front leveling lift kit. It comes with all necessary hardware, and it even includes detailed instructions for a hassle-free installation that takes about 2 hours.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. MotoFab warrants their products to be free from manufacturer's defects due to workmanship and material. The warranty applies only to the original purchaser which purchased the product. The limited lifetime warranty will not be transferrable. Some limitations may apply.
Application. This MotoFab 2 inch Front Leveling Lift Kit fits all 2007-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models, as well as 2019-2021 2WD Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Models.
Technical Note. The Lift Spacer thickness and lift is not a 1 to 1 ratio due to the suspension geometry.
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Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
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Not Compatible with the 2007 Silverado 1500 Classic Model.