(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$429.99 (kit)FREE Shipping
What's up, guys. Travis from americantrucks.com. And today, we're trying to figure out how to make your '04 to '08 Triton-powered F-150 a little bit louder and prouder. Now, if you've been looking around for different exhaust systems and you've seen by now, there are a ton of options available, but we're checking out one in particular today, and that's the Installer Series from MBRP. This 3-inch dual exhaust system comes in a very cool split rear exit configuration. And at around the $400 price point, guys, this is one of the least expensive dual exhaust systems that you can currently throw on this truck. Now, why this system in particular? Well, volume is obviously most important, right? We wanna make that motor sound a lot better. And I'm very happy to say the Installer Series does a damn good job of that. As far as the actual volume is concerned, I'm gonna actually give this thing a healthy four out of five on my loudness meter, guys. It's a lot louder than other options available, but it's not gonna go full tilt five out of five, I'd say this is right on the limit of what you'd be comfortable with if you're happy with some volume inside the cab, but you don't want excessive drone, and maybe you got daily commute and you don't wanna get tired of this thing any time soon.Now, there's a reason why this system comes in so affordably, and that's for a simple reason, it's made out of aluminized steel. Now, aluminized steel is not stainless steel. This system will show signs of rust and corrosion a little bit quicker than a stainless setup, but I'll actually show you guys a comparison to our factory system in a little bit, which is made out of stainless by the way, and you'll see, over time, either way, you are gonna develop some rust and corrosion. But, where it counts most, MBRP was nice enough to throw in these really cool slash cut polished tips, those are made out of stainless steel and they have a really nice mirror finish on them. So it's safe to say, as long as you clean these off once in a while, maybe throw some wax on them, they'll look good for years to come. Now, there are a couple of variations of this system by the way, guys. If you wanted a more plastic, kind of hot rod look, they do have a split rear exit configuration, but, if you're a fan of the way the factory system exits on this truck, right here near the tire, and you just wanna mirror that on the other side, then the split side exit configuration is gonna be the one you'll want.And I'm also happy to say that this system installs very easily. You might have to make a cut to the provided midpipe up there, but that's something you can do in the driveway with a Sawzall and a measuring tape. So, for that reason, I'm still gonna give the install a pretty modest two out of three wrenches on my old difficulty meter. And I wager it'll take you about two hours in the driveway to get this thing bolted on. Honestly, the hardest part is gonna be removing that stubborn old factory system. So, again, if you're looking for one of the most affordable dual exhaust upgrades for your Triton powered F-150 and you really wanna crank up the volume, but you don't wanna go full tilt, you wanna kind of find that sweet spot, then the Installer Series is gonna be the ticket for you. And if you decide to stick with this one, you can actually come back to this video in just a little bit. I'm gonna show you guys all the tools you need to get the job done and I'm gonna walk you through the entire install step by step. All right, guys. Before we get started, you'll need to grab a standard drive ratchet, a 5/16ths Allen key or Allen head socket, a half-inch socket, that can be shallow or deep, and you'll need a 9/16ths and 15-millimeter deep socket. Now, optional but very helpful tools, I strongly recommend at least having some spray lubricant as well as a dead blow mallet and a pry bar. And then other optional but helpful tools include a flathead screwdriver, a 10-millimeter socket with an extension, an impact swivel socket, and an impact gun. And also, depending on your cabin bed link, you may have to make a cut to the provided midpipe, in which case you will need a cutting tool of some sort with a measuring tape and you'll obviously want some i-Pro. All right, guys. Once you got your tooling setup, you can crawl underneath the truck. What we're gonna do first is we're gonna disconnect our factory midpipe from our Y-pipe. It's held in place with this barrel clamp up here, it has two nuts keeping it tight, so we need a 15-millimeter deep socket. Now, once we've loosened up this barrel clamp, we're actually gonna slide the entire exhaust system out of all its rubber isolators, so we can actually drop the entire system as one piece and pull it out from underneath the truck. It's not that hard, sounds a little bit confusing, but I'll show you guys in a little bit. All right. Once you got that barrel clamp nice and loose, the next thing you wanna do is spray down all those rubber isolators securing the exhaust hangers on the frame rails. It's very helpful to have some spray lubricate, I generally recommend PB B'laster or some WD-40. You're gonna spray it on all three. There's one in front of the muffler, one directly behind it, and then one on the tailpipe out near the bumper. Make sure you get them soaked nice and well because there's probably a lot of rust and corrosion on there, and it's gonna be very helpful to have to pry bar or a dead blow mallet to help break things up. But, at any rate, you're gonna spray those down, let them soak, then we'll push the entire system out and we can pull it out from underneath the truck. All right, guys. Once you got all those rubber isolators good and soaked, go ahead and grab a buddy if possible, and you're gonna want them to actually support your tailpipe here slash the over-axle portion. As they're holding that, you're gonna push back on that muffler. Again, helpful to have a pry bar or dead blow mallet, and you're gonna kind of tap it or get some leverage on it to push it out of those rubber isolators. Again, your truck probably has some corrosion on those hangers, so it might be a little bit tight, but once it frees up, it's gonna wanna fall down really quick, and obviously it's a little heavy, so just take your time. If you're doing this by yourself like me, a good rule of practice is to actually let it fall down a little bit and let the over-axle pipe rest on the axle here. Then, once that's supported on the axle, you can work your way with the muffler and the midpipe, angle it all down and pull it out from underneath the truck. All right, guys. If you got the factory exhaust removed, then congratulations, because, honestly, that's the hardest part of this install. Now, when you get the factory exhaust system removed, it's a very good idea to mock up your new MBRP system next to it, that way you can get a better idea of where all that hardware is supposed to go. And it's also gonna help give you a little bit of clarity, depending on whether or not you need to cut your midpipe, which I'll get to in a little bit. But, more importantly, I wanted to give you guys a good comparison between the two systems, to really point out some of the differences that I like about the new MBRP system. And obviously, the big star of the show is their new Installer Series muffler. Guys, this is pretty much a straight through muffler. It's got one primary core going through it with some perforations, but it's not baffled and chambered like our factory one is here. You can obviously see the new muffler is a hell of a lot smaller than the factory one, that's because the factory one is baffled and chambered. That's great for daily driving, no good for sound.Now, the reason why the Installer Series sounds a lot deeper than the factory setup isn't just the muffler, we're actually upgrading our mid pipe from two and a half inches to three inches coming off the Y-pipe there. That bigger diameter results in a deeper tone. That's what gives you that really good low key idle, that's what makes that Triton motor sound good. And then obviously on the business end here, we got a massive upgrade over our factory tailpipe here. Ford was not kind enough to throw in any exhaust tip, so MBRP did us a favor, they threw in some really nice slash cut and rolled stainless steel tips. Those are made out of 304 stainless, those are never going to rust. Now, one of the reasons why this system is so affordable is because the entire setup itself is not made out of stainless steel. Ours is made out of factory grade 409 stainless, this one is gonna show signs of rust and corrosion a little bit sooner, guys, but as long as you keep the undercarriage relatively clean and dry, you're not gonna have to worry about pinhole leaks, and you shouldn't have to worry about any of the welds cracking on this, because MBRP lets us know that they actually reinforce all the welds with aluminum silica, that's gonna be good for that rust and corrosion prevention.Now, even though we're also going from a single side exit here to a split exit, we don't have to do any cutting or modification as far as our hangers go. They do provide us with a new hanger for the driver side for that new hanger on that tailpipe there, and they also thrown in a rubber isolator, all we gotta do is bolt up to a hole that's already located in the frame rail, I'll show you guys that in a little bit. But, back to cutting. In the instructions, they do tell you, you might have to make a cut to that mid pipe there, guys. Really straightforward. Go ahead and measure your wheelbase, or if you know whether you got a double cab, crew cab, super cab, short bed, long bed, whatever, go ahead and grab that, measure twice and cut once. This is currently at 44 inches, we have to take this down to 37 inches because we're working with that super cab with that six and a half foot box. Let's go ahead and we'll head over to our chop saw real quick, we'll get that bolted up, and I'll show you guys how to get the rest of the system installed. All right, guys. So when you go to throw the midpipe in place, you actually wanna remove the factory clamp from the Y-pipe here because we're gonna be using the provided saddle clamps in the kit. Now, when we go to throw this thing in place, we're not actually gonna be tightening anything down because this can actually slide back and forth on that Y-pipe. And we wanna make sure we get the right amount of length out of this thing even though we cut it some. So we're just gonna throw it in place and we'll throw our muffler on there. All right. Next, we're gonna throw our muffler onto our midpipe, and in order to secure the two together, we're gonna have to grab this hanger and clamp combo, slide it on the inlet of the muffler. Again, we're not gonna be tightening any of this stuff down because you actually have to rotate the muffler as we install our tailpipes, and these little guys right here, the outlets, are gonna have to change their direction here. So again, do not tighten down the fasteners on this clamp, it's gonna make it a lot easier. All right. Once you have the muffler in place, you have a decision to make, do you wanna tackle the passenger side tailpipes, or the driver side? And personally, I would recommend doing the driver side because that's where that next hanger is located. It's gonna help support our muffler assembly. It's gonna make it a lot easier to line up all the rest of the pipes. Now, when you throw this in place, you have to line up that hanger with that rubber isolator, and you also have to line up the tubes so they can get into the muffler. So it's very helpful to spray down that rubber isolator, make it a lot easier to slide this hanger in and out. All right. Now our muffler is secured with that first tailpipe that we threw on for the driver side. Now we're gonna tackle our passenger side tailpipes, they come in two pieces. So, first, you're gonna have to throw the over-axle pipe onto the muffler, then you're gonna slide that tailpipe on there, you're also gonna line up that hanger with this rubber isolator up here. Now, guys, I've done a lot of these systems and I'm gonna warn you, this is kind of a pain in the ass trying to get that hanger in here while lining up all the pipe. So there's actually a much easier way to go about it. If you have a 10-mil wrench or 10-mil socket, easy way to go about it is actually remove this isolator completely, go ahead and push it onto that hanger, and then you can get both of those pipes in place, and you can just bolt it back up, it's a lot easier. All right, now that our isolator is removed, we'll throw in our-over axle pipe onto that other outlet of the muffler. Make sure you got one of those saddle clamps on there as well. All right, guys. Now that the over-axle pipe is in place, we're gonna slide our isolator on here. You want this tab to be on the opposite side of where this hanger is actually welded on the pipe. And again, very helpful to have some spray lubricant, this is a very tight fit. All right, now, once you got that isolator on that hanger, we can throw it up on there, make sure you grab a saddle clamp so you can get the slip fit connection tightened down. All right, guys, our passenger side is pretty much all done up, now we can tackle our driver side tailpipe before we throw on our exhaust tips. Obviously, you have to install a new rubber isolator, they provide one in the kit here. It's gonna be oriented like so, so you're gonna have this little tip right here kind of facing up towards the frame rail, it's gonna kind of smoosh up against it. Now, there are two holes in the frame rail here above the leaf that I got a square hole and a little round hole. You got this little speed clip here. You want the threaded part of the speed clip inside the frame. You're gonna press this in through that square hole, line the threads up with that round hole, then you're gonna zip all this together with the provided bolt and washers. All right, now, to tighten down this bolt, you'll need a half-inch sock.All right, guys, last step here. We're gonna throw in this final tailpipe, then we can throw on all of our exhaust tips, line everything up and tighten everything down. Same process as before, make sure you got that final clamp on there so you can get that slip fit connection nice and tight. And again, it's helpful to spray down your isolator/hanger to make it easier to slide all this stuff together. All right, guys, last step here is throwing on our exhaust tips before we tighten everything down. Now, these have Allen head bolts with the welded nut here on the connection, so you'll need a 5/16ths Allen key or Allen head socket when you tighten this stuff down. All right, both of our exhaust tips are zipped on and we've double checked our alignment, we're happy with where everything is sitting. Now we're gonna actually work our away from front to back and tighten down all of our saddle clamps.Now, all the hardware in the kit is SAE, so you'll need at 9/16ths deep socket and it's helpful, as you go along after you tighten down each individual clamp, to double check your work, make sure nothing's shifted around, and make any adjustments as needed till you get to the very end. All right, so once you got all those clamps tightened down, do yourself a favor, do one final check of all your clearances, make sure nothing's rubbing anywhere. And that will wrap up this very easy install. And that also wraps up my review of the MBRP 3-inch Installer Series Dual Exhaust System in the Split Side Exit configuration fitting your '04 to '08 Triton-powered F-150. I'm Travis. Thanks for watching. And for all things F-150, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Tough Exhaust Sound. Show just how tough your truck is when you drive around with this rumbling MBRP Installer Series 3 in. cat-back exhaust kit. It's designed to give you a deeper and darker exhaust note that will stick out nicely when you drive around. Add this pipe system to your truck and it's going to be more powerful and also sound like it is more powerful.
More Powerful. As surprising as it might be, this exhaust system makes your truck faster and more effective. That's because it has wide 3" mandrel bent tubing. The tubing is wide enough to keep exhaust moving fast, and since it's mandrel bent it has the same diameter around corners for a smooth flow. That improves engine function and power pretty easily.
Corrosion Protected. This MBRP Installer Series 3 in. cat-back exhaust system is coated with aluminum to protect it against corrosion, salt and water. Exhaust systems corrode quickly when not treated properly, and this one should hold up nicely over time.
Goes on Simply. If you follow the directions you should have no trouble putting this MBRP Installer Series 3 in. cat-back exhaust kit into position. It uses standard hardware and the built in hangers to do its job. That means you can look at how the old exhaust is installed and follow the same idea with the new one. You can also hire pros to do the work and they should have it done in two hours or less.
Application. This MBRP Installer Series 3 in. Split Side Exit Cat-Back Exhaust is specifically designed to fit on the 2004-2008 5.4L F-150s with the following cab and bed size. SuperCab with a 6.5 ft. Bed SuperCrew with a 5.5 ft. Bed SuperCrew with a 6.5 ft. Bed
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Fitment: 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Designed for SuperCabs with a 6.5 ft. Bed & SuperCrews with a 5.5 ft. or 6.5 ft. Bed