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MBRP 3-Inch Installer Series Single Exhaust System with Polished Tip; Side Exit (03-06 5.3L Silverado 1500)

Item S109859
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      Video Review & Installation

      Merideth: Hey guys. So today we're checking out the MBRP 3-inch Installer Series Single Exhaust System with the polish tip and the side exit fitting all 2003 to 2006, 5.3-liter Silverado 1500s. Now, if you are in the market for upgrading the sound and look of your Silverado with an affordable exhaust system, then this option is something that you should take a look into. This will do a good job at opening up airflow, creating a moderately aggressive sound out of your 5.3-liter. As far as sound level goes, I'm going to give this a two out of five on the loudness meter with one being completely stock and five being incredibly loud. This exhaust system will increase the volume and deepen the tone of the exhaust, but this is not going to be incredibly loud. Now this will have a throaty sound to the system with minimal drone, making the system perfect for the truck owner who wants something that's comfortable for everyday living but wants to hear their exhaust when they get on the throttle.Not to mention, this will look a lot better than the factory exhaust system, considering that this comes with a nice polish tip. Now, this exhaust system will be roughly $400 when it comes to price and one of your most affordable choices for a three-inch exhaust making this a good entry-level kit. In comparison to other choices on the page, price will usually come down to the style of the exhaust as well as the materials that are being used. This system will be made of an aluminized steel material like the factory one, which is lower on the quality scale compared to a high quality 409 or 304 stainless steel. Now that'll save you a couple of bucks in the long run while still offering good quality and not going over the top. Now, some other choices will also include different configurations like dual piping, or we'll have a different size or finished when it comes down to the tip.So that really kind of comes down to your personal preference when it comes to the design, but it also comes down to your personal preference when it comes to sound as well. So if you're looking for something that's affordable for a single outlet cat-back exhaust that's right in the middle when it comes to sound, then this will be right up your alley. Now, when it comes to install, this will come in at a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. However, it's nothing you can't get done in your driveway with some pretty basic hand tools like a long flathead or a pry bar, a ratchet, an Allen key set, and a 15-millimeter socket. You also wanna make sure that you have some PB B'laster or any penetrating oil on hand because sometimes working with exhaust hangers can be a little bit tricky without it. However, on that note, one of our customers here at americantrucks.com has installed this exhaust and is going to walk you right through the install. So speaking of that, let's jump into the install now.Male Instructor: For this next part, which is taking off the stock exhaust. It is a 15-millimeter socket. I've got a hand ratchet here, an impact, that's optional. I just have one so I'm gonna use it when I can. And a long screwdriver or something that's got a decent shank on it that can act as a pry bar. That penetrating oil has been sitting on there for some good time at this point. And we're gonna go ahead and un-ratchet those.Now, removing that was surprisingly straightforward and easy on this. There's not a lot of salt or corrosion in California. So, really that was tremendously easy. I took that off in probably a minute.The biggest issue is feeding this large nipple through on the other side, but if you put some WD-40 on it, it'll go ahead and push right through. I have to use two hands for this. I will not be recording this, but it's very straightforward.I came back here because the next hanger to remove is the one kind of right in front of the differential. There are a total of three hangers. And it was like this. So for me, that was an unsafe driving condition. If you guys have anything similar to that, why don't you just go ahead and order a new exhaust because the last thing you want is that falling out on you on the freeway? I'm gonna go ahead and remove this hanger. And then there's one more hanger, right by where the back leaf spring is. And actually, the original exit point for the exhaust is right here by your spare tire. Make sure you threw a little WD-40 or penetrating oil in both of these once again to make your removal easier. I'll be back once the exhaust is out.So about five minutes later, here's the exhaust out. It's all original, except for the previous owner welded in a Flowmaster with some trash piping. As you can see, it's factory all the way up to this point. They cut it, downsized the piping just to match the exit here. And once I got mine out of the hanger, you know, there you go. So, I think that looks a little bit better, probably sound better too. Now we're gonna get to installing the new exhaust. Oh, we can't use the factory studs in here, in which case, the old trusty ball-peen hammer, this is pretty small, and there's my hand and size for reference. The spaces that you're gonna have to tap this out of are pretty tiny. I might need to get a chisel and a punch. But I'm gonna just go ahead and try it with this ball-peen hammer first to see if I can get it loose.We put the new bolts in. They actually have a nut threaded on this other side. So I'm gonna go ahead and use this here hammer and just give this some love taps on the way out. You can put the nut back on here if you wanted to protect the threads. These threads, I'm not saving for any reason. So I will go ahead and just hit it out with the hammer. But if you want it to be extra cautious and you know, probably just a good rule of practice and you get a little bit larger striking surface. So you know what, I'm gonna do it this way. Go ahead and thread the old nut on, and then you can just strike it here without digging up threads too bad and it'll just punch out the stud and you'll have more of a hammering surface. So I'll be back once these are tapped out. No possible way to swing a hammer in this tiny little area or this tiny little area up here without it being kind of dangerous. So my recommendation would be use a long punch or all three eights. You will destroy the end of it. So if you've got one that you like and you don't want to ruin it, don't use one.Anyways, you're gonna need to find something long and that can handle the impact of a hammer as you are taking that out. Just remember to be careful with this part. You're gonna use the female side at the three eights right around the stud and then tap the three eights extension end with the hammer to get this closest exhaust out. Once you got that extension on, you can hammer in this area and you've got a pretty decent swing arc. That should pop it out fairly easily as long as you pre-soaked it with some penetrating oil. And as far as this one up here right by the subframe, this is... I'm just showing you what worked for me. The stud is gonna be right here. You can just take, a ball-peen hammer is gonna be great. I think this is probably a one-and-a-half-pound head on it, just if you wanted to know. And go ahead and just tap right there on the stud and it'll come right out. They are just like wheel studs. They've got a serration on there. So all you're doing is fighting against serration.So that should pop out fairly easily. Once you've got that out, we are now ready to put the new exhaust on. And as you can see, mine is very clean in this area, but if you've got any nasty like silt buildup or whatever, you're gonna wanna Emery cloth that out, or, you know, take a Scotch-Brite and just clean that up before you put the new exhaust on. Setting then the bolts and nuts up for this process, I would do outside of the vehicle. So, according to the instructions, we've got the bolt and the flat washer that go on this side, and then on the other side is going to be that lock washer and nut. And we come to the connection with the wide pipe. Leave these loose. Do yourself a favor, because you're gonna go ahead and install the rest of this, just put them on so there's threads that have caught. Once again, it's the bolt, flat washer, and then on the other side is the lock washer and then the nut. And both are 15s.Next piece on is that mid-pipe. And so I've got it hooked into the hanger. It's free-flowing. And then when you get these exhaust clamps, go ahead and put this on the very first pipe first. I like to always have my bolts facing down. Really do yourself a favor. If you leave it loose and you do it that way, it's not really a big deal, but the goal is once these are clamped over this piece, you want the nut for tightening to very easily be accessible because if you've got it, say, flipped this way and the nuts facing up, you're really just kind of hurting yourself. So whether you've got it oriented nut down on this side or nut down on the other side, that's personal preference. I'm just gonna have them all on the left. So if I come underneath, real easy to get to. But once again, I'm not tightening anything down until I've got all the pieces in place. And right now I've just got the first one coming off the wide pipe to the intermediate pipe here. And make sure you put your clamps on beforehand. And I'm just gonna leave them loose till I've got everything test fit but I will be putting everything in the hangers. And like I said, the front ones are lightly fastened together, but easy enough to where I can move them and they're not really snuck down, they're just threaded on. So number one thing when putting on an exhaust, leave everything loose. Thank me later.Now you're at the point where the muffler is gonna go on. I'm gonna go ahead and put this piece in because it's gonna stay in a hanger. And then we're gonna put the muffler in. So that way it can hang between the two loosely and not have this unsupported from just the front side or just the backside. So we're gonna go ahead and put this back piece in and then the muffler in. Make sure to put the clamps in on both sides. It looks like it's just kind of doing the whole seesaw thing back here. And once again, clamps. In this case, I'm gonna go ahead and put this muffler soft-fitted into here. They're snug enough to where it'll hold without it being any sort of dangerous situation. So I'm gonna go ahead and put the muffler on here, put our other clamp on this guy. Should just hang there. And then once we get that muffler in place, we'll loosely snug these clamps up just for overall safety. And I don't think it matters too much if you've got MBRP facing this way or that. In the picture, the P is facing the front of the car. So I'm gonna go ahead and do that.Sometimes these tanks will be bent in and it won't wanna go on the pipe. So what you need to do is just go ahead and take a little ball-peen buddy, pry this round side and just go ahead and tap this out, very light gentle taps. You just wanna get it so the inner diameter is even and we'll slide over the other pipe. You may have to do that with different pieces depending on how your exhaust was shipped, or if the manufacturing was strange. Anyways, we'll be back once that's done. We'll be gentle with it. A couple of really light taps. These are already kind of cut, set up in a way that they will flex very easily with minimal pressure. So, light taps if any of these ears or tangs, whatever you wanna call them, are slightly bent in. A slight tap and back out, and then it should fit right over.I put this back piece on first. So that way, this muffler, it's not super heavy, but just to kind of even the load on things and so that you're not sagging this front hanger or putting too much stress on it. I was able to just reuse the old hangers in my situation. They're in decent enough shape to where they're gonna be just fine. You may need to get them replaced, but you know, in my situation, not really necessary. They look old, but the rubber is still flexible and it's okay. This one I might replace at a certain point because the, oh, no, it's still together. Yeah, we're still good. That one's fine. It's just looking weird because it doesn't have the end tailpiece on. So, anyways, pretty straightforward, very easy. Like I said, once you've done these little tangs if they need to be like... If they've bent in or whatever, once you adjust them, they slide on really easily. And these clamps so far are pretty wonderful. I hope that they make for a leak-free installation. They look like they're gonna be rock solid. These are also 15-millimeter nuts if you were curious. So all you need for this whole project, taking it off and putting it back on is a 15-millimeter and a socket wrench and maybe a three-inch extension. So we'll be back. I'm gonna get the last piece on that goes over the whole rear axle here.I'm gonna go ahead and take the tip-off as I bring it over here, just to keep that from not getting scuffed. I have that on here for reference. So we're gonna go ahead and take that exhaust, clamp this pipe, and we're gonna leave the tip right in the old tip box right there. And when you're getting this final tailpiece in, go ahead and hook this into the hanger first, it'll give you kind of a leverage point.That was the one hang-up area. And that was everything on this kit. One goes together like butter. Just because you're dealing with a strange angle, like an angle coming down onto something and you're working underneath the truck, assuming you're not on a lift because this is totally doable just without a lift. No problem. I'm doing this just on the ground, just so everybody knows. And yeah, once you get that on there, once again, I have nothing snugged up yet bolt-wise. This is all just test fit, but you know, leaving stuff loose, you're gonna be singing the praises.You wanna be able to turn this pipe right here. Let's see. There we go. Used my hand, right there, to adjust your fitment here because you don't want this just being limp. See other gap is way larger up here than it is down here. You want this to be more even. So you'll have to do a little bit of, you know, adjustment with how you hold the pipe and whatever before you get that spaced evenly at the bottom and at the top. So that way that's snug, that connection is snug and leak-free. Start tightening these clamps up, and we're gonna just work our way back. Once that guy's snug, am moving back to the one right in front of the exhaust manifold. And then once we're done with here, we're just gonna keep going our way back. So once you guys have all the clamps snugged up, they get to a point where you get them snug, and then you need to go a bit further, and that kind of brings the clamp from here to fully seat around the pipe itself. And that's what's gonna make for that leak-free fix.Now upfront where that white pipe met and the nut and bolt situation was, those are just snug. They're not crazy tight on any specific side because you will cause an exhaust leak. That little socket, it's kinda like a socket situation where that new 3-inch pipe sits in there and it doesn't need a ton of pressure to maintain a seal so it needs to be equal on both sides. But as you move back and you start doing these clamps over the actual pipe itself, those need a pretty decent amount of torque to get them seated. Once they've seated, you can see on the top of the clamp that they'll have met, and then, you know, start her up for a leak-free, just to check. And crawl under there while the exhaust is still cold and listen around and see if you've got any leaks. Go ahead and fire up. Yeah, when you're done, this is what she's gonna sound like. Hear a little rev.And ladies and gentlemen, the final piece, de resistance, is the stainless steel tip that's gonna go on there. It's an Allen key. It's metric size eight. We'll go ahead and put that on and I'll get back to you. All done. Looking pretty, sounding good. Not crazy loud. And that's kind of a good thing in my opinion. It is definitely as loud as the Flowmaster that was on there. I'm not sure if that's a 50 series or a 40 series, but this MBRP exhaust sounds fantastic. Now that I got the tip on, I know that's not gonna change the sound whatsoever, but, you know, let's fire up.Merideth: So that is going to wrap it up for my review and install of the MBRP 3-inch installer series, single exhaust system with the polished tip and the side exit fitting all 2003 to 2006, 5.0-liter Silverado 1500s that you can find right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Rich Exhaust Note
      • Enhances Performance Numbers
      • Straight-Through Muffler Design
      • Robust, 3 Inch Diameter Aluminized Steel Piping
      • Slanted Cut 3.50 Inch Diameter Stainless Steel Exhaust Tip
      • Single Side Exit
      • Straightforward Bolt-On Installation
      • Fits 2003-2006 5.3L Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Models

      Description

      Rich, Resonant Note. If you’re looking for a cost-effective exhaust upgrade, then you can’t go wrong with the MBRP 3 inch Installer Series Side Exit Single Exhaust System. This Cat-Back exhaust produces a deep rumble when idling that explodes into a rich exhaust note during acceleration, much more than what you’d get with your Silverado’s stock system. What’s more, this exhaust tone, while loud, is not too loud as to be obnoxious so you don’t end up with complaining neighbors!

      Enhanced Torque and Horsepower. The MBRP 3 inch Installer Series Side Exit Single Exhaust System not only makes your truck sound good, it enhances torque and horsepower. These performance boosts are the result of larger exhaust pipes and a straight-through muffler design that significantly increases exhaust flow. Additionally, this system lowers exhaust temperatures, which improves fuel efficiency.

      Robust Aluminized Steel Construction. The MBRP 3 inch Installer Series Side Exit Single Exhaust System is crafted from robust 16-gauge aluminized steel. This type of steel provides superior strength and excellent corrosion resistance, while keeping costs down. Its piping is fully mandrel-bent for added rigidity, as well as eliminating exhaust gas choke points. Finally, this Cat-Back exhaust’s tips are constructed from polished T409 stainless steel, for a stylish look.

      Straightforward Installation with Some Cutting. The MBRP 3 inch Installer Series Side Exit Single Exhaust System features built-in OEM-style hangers, which attaches to the factory mounting points. Mounting hardware is included for easy installation. Please note that some cutting may be needed on the included extension pipe for proper fitting of your exhaust.

      Application. The MBRP 3 inch Installer Series Side Exit Single Exhaust System fits 2003-2006 5.3L Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Extended Cab with the Standard Box & Crew Cab models

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      Fitment:

      Details

      MBRP S5014AL

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Extension Pipe
      • (1) Mid Pipe
      • (1) Muffler
      • (1) Over Axle Pipe
      • (1) Tail Pipes
      • (1) Exhaust Tip
      • (4) Saddle Clamps
      • Installation Hardware
      4.6

      Customer Reviews (100+)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Silverado 1500

        • 4.3L V6 - 03, 04, 05, 06
        • 4.8L V8 - 03, 04, 05, 06
        • 5.3L V8 - 03, 04, 05, 06
        • 6.0L V8 - 03, 04, 05, 06

        Designed for the Extended Cab with the Standard Box and Crew Cab