(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
Hey, guys. It's Sara with americantrucks.com and today, we have a review and install of the FOX Factory Race Series 2.5-inch Front CoilOver IFP Shocks a 0 to 3-inch, fitting your '07 through '18 Silverado 1500. These are perfect for the Silverado owner who wants a front performance coilover that's gonna get them a bit of lift in the front end, making their truck more level and wants a top of the line option. This coilover from FOX will smooth out the ride of your Silverado and is constructed from premium materials that can take the off-road abuse. These coilovers are constructed from a 2.5-inch seamless alloy body with zinc plating and double-clear coat finish and also include an Eibach spring. These coilovers were designed for 0 to 3 inches of lift and they are adjustable, however, it does require a spring compressor to adjust them. But the good news is that FOX sends them to you with 2.5 inches of lift upfront and that is perfect for getting your truck level.So the IFP of this coilover stands for an internal floating piston inside of the shock. What it does is separate the oil from the gas, preventing cavitation. These shocks were designed with valving specific to your Silverado as well as redundant seals. It also features high flow aluminum pistons and hardened steel shafts. All right. So, as you can see, 33s do fit on the truck, but keep in mind we're sitting on the flat shop floor currently. If you're going over any terrain or even on the highway, you're likely to see some rubbing, especially at full lock. So, keep that in mind when you're choosing a tire size.So, as far as price goes, this one comes in at around $1,400, putting it middle to high-end price-wise when compared to other coilover options. And you do save a bit of money over another option from FOX with an external reservoir. Now, these will still get you the high-quality coilover you're looking for from that trusted company in suspension.I'm giving this install a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does feature a direct bolt up installation but requires aftermarket control arms that can accommodate up to a 3-inch lift. It can be done at approximately three hours, but I would leave yourself a little more time, maybe the better part of a day for install. So, with that said, let's jump into our install.For this install, you will need impact guns or a ratchet, several hammers, a pop clip removal tool, 22, 21,17, 15, 11, and 10-millimeter sockets, 15, 21, 14, and 18-millimeter wrenches, a pry bar as well as a breaker bar and a Sharpie.All right. So, the first step in our install before we get started, we're gonna disconnect the ABS line as well as the brake line to make sure they're out of the way when we drop the control arm. Using a 10-millimeter socket, remove the ABS line right on the back side of the rotor. And moving a little bit farther up the ABS line and also the brake line are attached to the control arm, also a 10-milliliter. Now, the line should be significantly more free, but if you need some additional room, there is a Christmas tree clip holding in the ABS line up here, you can pop that out with a pop clip removal tool so you have a little bit more slack in this line if you need it. All right. So, now we're gonna disconnect the sway bar using a 15-millimeter wrench and 15-millimeter socket. Now, both sides do have to come off and if these fight you, you can disconnect the other side as well.Next up, using your 15-millimeter socket, we're gonna disconnect the two bolts on the bottom of the shock. Now, you will see your lower control arm drop down a little bit and your shock move forward. All right. Next up, we're gonna remove the nuts on top of the strut. And to get access to these, you do need to remove these plastic clips that hold on this wiring harness. Now, you can just push it off with your hand, but it makes it a little bit easier if you use a pop clip removal tool and just slide them off. Underneath these clips there may also be a little plastic retainer holding on another wiring harness. Also, get that off because that'll just get in the way of our tool getting to these nuts. Once those are out of the way, grab an 18-millimeter wrench. I like the ratcheting one, it makes it a little easier and we're gonna loosen up on these nuts.So, I like to leave the front one just a couple threads on so it's finger tight just because that's gonna be the last thing holding on our strut and we don't want it to fall. I'll remove the rear ones all the way just because they're a little farther back and harder to get to. And you will not need to reinstall these. Now, if you don't feel like using a ratcheting wrench through the wheel well, you can use an extension and a socket and go through the engine bay. Next up, we're gonna loosen the nut holding in the ball joint to our knuckle. We're gonna do this while the other bolts holding the control arm are tight so that we can release this ball joint more easily. We're using an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench for this. Now, once it is almost loose but still a few threads on there, we're gonna use a hammer and hit the knuckle to release the ball joint all the way. Definitely wanna leave this nut in here so that our control arm doesn't fly up too much.All right. Now, you wanna use a metal hammer for this and you wanna make sure you're hitting right evenly on the top of the knuckle. If you would like, you can turn your wheel and hit right on the backside here, but let's release our ball joint. All right. Now, with the ball joint released, we can start to pull out our shock. Since the nut up top is just hand tight, remove it so that there's nothing holding in the shock. And now you can move the back of it down to release the top part and then come out through the upper control arm. All right. So, with the ball joint released, we can take the nut off the end now using our 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. And I do have a pry bar on top of the control arm just to take some of the pressure off of it to make it a little easier to get this nut off.All right. So, with our ball joint released, we are supporting this knuckle with a bungee cord. You can actually even use a zip tie from the sway bar to the top of the knuckle. Anything to just take some tension off. We're looking for no tension on the brake line or the ABS line here. Once you've done that, we can disconnect the bolts holding on our control arm. Now, we're gonna take a Sharpie and mark about where the bolts are now so that we can try to get our alignment ballpark where it needs to be. Now, you still definitely need a professional alignment as soon as you're done with this install. All right. Let's mark our bolts. Just taking a Sharpie, we're marking off on the inside here. There is a little stud that slides in a groove. We're marking off where the stud is on each side so that we can turn this bolt plate here and get our alignment close. With a 21-millimeter wrench, hold the inside of the bolt going through our control arm and with a 21-millimeter socket and you may wanna swivel here, disconnect it.All right. So, the driver side is a little different on our truck. Normally, you can go in front of this bar here and go up and in on this bolt. You can on the passenger side, but there's a plate here on the driver side. So, we're using a breaker bar, a 21-millimeter socket, and a 21-millimeter wrench. All right. So, now that it's loose with the breaker bar, we can get a ratchet in there. And pull the control arm off the truck.All right. Now, that we have our factory shock uninstalled from our truck, we can check it out side by side with our Fox coilover. Now, as you can see, this one is definitely beefier and it's all-around tougher than your factory. This one features an Eibach spring as well as an aluminum high-flow piston and hardened steel carbon shafts. It has redundant seals as well as specific valving for your Silverado, as I mentioned before. So, all in all, it's going to outperform and outlast your factory shock.All right. So, right now we're gonna install the aftermarket control arm that I mentioned before. Again, make sure you're choosing one that accommodates up to 3 inches of lift and we're using the factory hardware. And this particular control arm requires spacers, so that's what you'll see here. Now, we did make markings here before on the side. We're gonna try to get those ballpark. We are going to tighten this again when it's on the ground, so you don't have to get them perfect now and you are gonna get that alignment, so just try to get them as close as you can. Grab this flat washer to install it and make sure that the little post that's right here is going into the hole on this washer. There's also two ridges on the opening that goes only one way over top of this bolt. Repeat that with the other side.Now, again, make sure this inner bolt plate is over top of this pin here and just get it as close as you can to the mark we made earlier. Install the plate on the other side and again, make sure it's over this pin. Install the nut. All right. Now, we can tighten these down. Just be careful to see where your mark is at and try to get it as close as you can. Again, we are gonna do a final tightness check on the ground once the truck is got its weight on it, but for now we should get it snug. You can use the wrench end to aim that mark as close as you can. Then repeat that on the other side.All right. So, now we can install our shock. Now, there are markings on the top hat here, but they can be hard to see once it's up by the frame. So, what I do is I put a little piece of tape, you can put a marking up front here. So, mark your front hole and the other should line themselves up. If you're not sure which way it should go, the shock angles outwards and the larger portion on the bottom should be forward. So, go ahead and install it in the reverse manner that we removed the stock one. So, going in up through our control arm and then we will have to go through the lower control arm and then back up. That's where it can be confusing as to which top hole we're aiming for. Then once it's resting on the lower control arm, can get it placed. Then using the supplied hardware, gonna go for this front section right here. Can remove the tape or your marketing at this point. Line it up and thread it in.Once you have the front threads started, go ahead and repeat that with the back two bolts. We're gonna leave them loose for now because we still need to maneuver our shock a little bit in order to get them all installed. All right. So, we are supporting the lower control arm with this pole jack and we can raise it or lower it to make sure we line up our shock the best we can. If for some reason the plane on the bottom here is not sitting flush with the control arm, you can take a large wrench around this nut and tilt it the way that you need it. Once your holes are lined up, use the provided hardware and get them installed. Grab a 17-millimeter socket and tighten these down. All right. Now, I can tighten down the nuts at the top of our shock using a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Now, you can go ahead and install the control arm back into your knuckle. You may need some support on the lower control arm to do so. You may need a rubber mallet to get the ball joint all the way seated. Grab the nut and twist it over the bottom. All right. Now, you can get an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and tighten this down.All right. At this point, you wanna repeat that entire process on the other side and once you complete both sides, you can reattach the sway bars. It's a lot easier if you leave them attached until you're complete with the entire project. You may want a pry bar just to make this a bit easier. Sometimes it likes to not want to collapse back down to the control arm. Reinstall the factory nut back on top. All right. Now, you can grab your 15-millimeter socket and 15-millimeter wrench and tighten it down. Now, we can reattach the ABS line using the factory bolt. And with our 10-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now, for the brake line bracket and the ABS bracket a little higher on the control arm, this uses a nut and washer, so slide the bracket over top with the washer and lock nut. And using an 11-millimeter socket, tighten it down.All right. So, once the truck is on the ground, you do wanna just double-check your control arm that everything is tight and make sure everything is torqued to spec. But that is going to do it for the review and install of these coilovers. And remember for all things Silverado, keep it at americantrucks.com.
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(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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