(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Jake: Jake here for AmericanTrucks. And today, I'm taking a look at the Borla S-type Rear Exit Dual Exhaust System with Black Chrome Tips for 2021 and newer 5-Liter F-150s. This one is going to appeal to the Coyote-powered F-150 owner who wants it all from their exhaust setup, great sound, good looks, and outstanding quality. This is a complete, well-rounded package that gets you that big name and the big-name benefits that go along with it. Borla has built their reputation on producing high-quality exhaust with excellent sound properties, and they offer different flavors too, depending on how much of your eardrums you'd like to blast with that sonorous V8 whale that comes out of the Coyote engine.Now, being that this is the S-type, it does fall in the middle of Borla's lineup in regards to sound and price. Our wake the neighbors' loudness meter here is gonna give this one a four out of five. So, make no mistake, just because it's a little more subdued than some of the other offerings out there does not mean that it is quiet. It's not hard to make the 5-liter sound good, but this system does kick it up a few notches over stock. You get that aggressive exhaust note without the volume going all the way up to 11. So as you heard from the clips at the beginning of the video, you get a deep, deep V8 rumble at idle and a big throaty roar when you crack the throttle wide open.Inside of the cabin, of course, you are gonna get more noise as well. Again, as you heard in the clips at the beginning of the video. It's not gonna be deafening though. And Borla has baked in some really cool technology to completely eliminate drone here. They use an exclusive type of construction they call Polyphonic Harmonizing Technology, and that sounds like it's some kind of weird buzzword, but that's about all the buzzing you're gonna get here. So, this is essentially the same type of science that goes into tuning pipe organs. So it uses different lengths of pipe to control the different frequencies, thus eliminating obtrusive or dissonance sounds.Now, in this system, they're inside of this little resonator right here, which you can hopefully see. Now, these trick bits utilize different sizes, different diameters of piping including perforated tube shape cores, different patterns within them to make those frequencies harmonized, so you get that really nice sound and the volume that you want with no drone. Borla claims that with any of their exhaust there is no drone at any speed, any RPM, or in any gear. And that's about a true of a statement as you can get. Many exhausts sound really good, but they can have some pretty terrible drone, and that negatively impacts the experience of driving your truck. But here, you're not gonna have to worry about that.Now, as far as construction goes, again, this is a really high-quality system. As you can see here, Borla makes all of their exhausts out of T304 stainless steel, so you're gonna get excellent corrosion and rust resistance and it's really just a nice-looking exhaust. It's almost a shame that you're not gonna see most of this once it's on the truck. The piping here is all 3-inch mandrel-bent tubing up through the muffler up to this collector, and it's 2-1/4-inch tubing afterwards. And since it's mandrel-bent, there's no weird creases or wrinkles in the metal, and all of that means the exhaust gases are gonna flow nice and smoothly through and allow your engine to breathe better than the stock system while also reducing back pressure.Then, of course, we also have the tips. These are 4-inch dual black chrome tips and no getting around it here, I think these look great. They've got a nice, aggressive slash cut to them and they just look cool. These are T304 stainless and that dark chrome really finishes the whole thing off nicely. I think these look great and you get to change it up a bit since this system exits at the rear. So, there's a nice, little visual update that comes in addition to that better sound.Now, these rear sections are also designed to perfectly clear the spare tire underneath of your truck, so there's no need to do any modifications or leave the spare tire at home or put it in the bed or anything like that. You even get new hangers for the left side and right side to make sure that everything gets installed and hung up properly.Now, pricing for this system does fall toward the top of the category coming in around $1,600. It is a hefty chunk of change, but again, you're getting a super high-quality system, zero drone, and an awesome sound. It's gonna last a long time, it's gonna sound good, and it's not gonna make your ears bleed. And when it comes to exhaust, you really can't ask for much more than that. Installation here will get a two out of three on a difficulty meter, and it should take you about two hours to complete.Exhaust can be a little bit finicky at times just because moving all that piping around underneath the truck isn't the easiest task, especially if you don't have access to a lift. But this is still something that you can absolutely accomplish at home. It is an entirely bolt-on system and it uses all of your factory exhaust hanger locations and the ones that aren't there, they have included this just bolt-right-on in, and you've even got new rubber mounts for them too.One thing to note, though, is that depending on the size of your cab and/or bed, you may need an adapter for the extension pipe. We do have those available on our site, however, so just be sure that you have what you need before attempting to get this installed. And with that, let's head over to the install bay now and we'll walk you through the process.Man 1: Tools required for this install include, an impact gun, a ratchet, a can of penetrating lubricant, a 15-millimeter wrench, an extension, a 10, 15, 17, shallow 24-millimeter sockets, a swivel socket, a pair of scissors, an exhaust hanger remover tool, and a pole jack or jack stands. What's up, guys? Today, I'm gonna show you how to install an exhaust on our F-150. First, we're gonna watch a quick little uninstall video, and then I'll meet you right back here for the install.Man 2: Start by grabbing your 13-millimeter socket and undoing the 2 bolts at the flange. Next, take your exhaust hanger removal tool and get the muffler out of the isolator. Next, we're gonna slide our exhaust towards the tail end so we can get them out of the two additional hangers, and then we're gonna drop the whole exhaust as a full. I grabbed a buddy to help me out with that.Man 1: So, our first step's gonna be to install our front pipe with our muffler. Now you're gonna be reusing your factory 17-millimeter bolts that thread into these holes. However, ours have been replaced, so we'll be using a 17-millimeter bolt with a 15-millimeter nut on the back. Now, I have a pole jack in place just to hold up the backside of our muffler to give us some support while we bolt it down. So now we can line up our flange and start our hardware.And then once we have our hardware started, we're gonna take a 17-millimeter socket on the bolt side and a 15-millimeter wrench on the nut side. But if you're doing this at home with your stock hardware, you're just gonna need a 17-millimeter socket to tighten down the bolt side. And then just keep in mind to go back and forth tightening down evenly to put even pressure on our flange. So now our next step's gonna be to take one of our large clamps, slide it right over our muffler outlet.Now we're gonna leave our pole jack in place to support our muffler until we can get our next pipe on and into the hanger to support the weight and take it off of our flange. And then we'll grab our next pipe, slide through our hanger, into our muffler, and then we can get our clamp into position. We'll take a 15-millimeter socket to tighten this down. We're gonna leave it a little bit loose until the end when we come back and adjust everything and then tighten it down once we have it in our final resting position.So, now coming to the inside of the rear bumper on the driver's side, we're gonna be looking at our frame rail here. Now, before we install our over-axle and our tailpipes, we're gonna go ahead and install our hangers. These are gonna bolt up right here on the inside of the frame rail. So we're gonna remove these two 24-millimeter nuts, slide our hanger in place, and then reinstall our nuts. I've got a couple of pole jacks supporting our bumper since we're on a lift, but if you're on the ground, you can use jack stands or even have a buddy help hold the bumper up while you quickly install your hanger. So now we can take that 24-millimeter socket, I've got a swivel on here just because we don't have a lot of room to work with, and we can get these 2 nuts removed.Now, we can install our hanger and reinstall our nuts. And then we'll take that same 24 with the swivel to tighten those down. Now, coming over to our passenger side frame rail, we're just gonna do that exact same thing. Remove these two nuts, put our hanger in there, and then reinstall our nuts. And then we'll tighten those back down with our 24-millimeter socket. So now we can take another one of our 3-inch clamps, we'll slide it over the edge of this pipe here, and then we can take our over-axle pipe, we'll slide it into our hanger first, and then we can connect our pipes together.Now this hanger's a little stiff, so I used a little bit of penetrating lubricant just to make it easier to slide our hanger into place. So then we can grab our clamp, slide it over the over-axle pipe into position, and then we'll take our same 15-millimeter socket. We're gonna do the same thing as the last clamp. We're gonna tighten it down loosely until the end so that we can still adjust our exhaust and get the fit that we want.Now, before we start installing our tailpipes, we're gonna come back to our hangers that we've previously installed. We're gonna have to add our isolators to it. So I've already sprayed these down with some penetrating lubricant just to make it easier to slide over. Now, before we install our driver-side tailpipe, we're gonna do the same thing we did on the other side and attach our rubber isolator to our hanger. Now, once again, I've sprayed both of these down with some penetrating lubricant just to make it easier to slide over.So, now we can grab another one of our 2-inch clamps. We're gonna slide it over the edge of our passenger-side tailpipe, and then we can connect this to our over-axle pipe. And then we'll come up to our hanger, slide that in. And now we'll slide our clamp into place and we'll loosely tighten this down with a 15-millimeter socket. So now we can grab our extension pipe that runs over to our driver's side for our driver-side tailpipe. We'll grab another 2-inch clamp, slide that over the edge, get this up into place. And then we can slide our clamp up into place and take our 15-millimeter socket to tighten this one down.So, now we can take our last 2-inch clamp, slide that over our driver-side tailpipe. And then we'll get our tailpipe slid into place. And then we can get it up into our hanger. And then we can get our clamp slid into place. And we can tighten that down with our 15-millimeter socket. And we'll leave this a little loose until we make our final adjustment.So, now once we have our exhaust adjusted and in a place that we like it, we can go back starting from the front to the back, and fully tighten down all of our clamps and flanges. So we'll start with the front. We have a 17-millimeter bolt on the front and a 15-millimeter nut on the back. For the stock, it'll be just a 17-millimeter nut. Our hardware was replaced, so that's why ours is different. Now, we can get our next 2 clamps which are gonna be 15-millimeter nuts. Now we can grab the two clamps on our over-axle pipe.So, now lastly, since we're adding a pipe to our driver's side, we're gonna have to go ahead and protect our brake lines here from the heat. So, Borla includes a little heat shield. However, you do have this bracket in the way. So I'm just gonna take a pair of scissors and cut it basically in half so we can get a section here and a section here.Now we can take our two halves, wrap this side around our front. We have a piece of double-sided tape here that we can peel back. Just wrap that around, lay that down. And we'll do the same thing on the other side of that bracket. And now our brake lines will be nice and protected from the heat coming up from our exhaust. And then finally, we can get our last clamp on our driver's side tailpipe with that same 15-millimeter socket.So, that'll wrap up this review and install of Borla S-type Dual Exhaust System with Black Chrome Tips and Rear Exit for your 2021 to current 5.0-Liter F-150. Thank you for watching. And remember for all things F-150, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Designed for SuperCabs with a 6-1/2-Foot Bed and SuperCrews with a 5-1/2-Foot Bed)