(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$94.95 (kit)FREE Shipping
Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com. Today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Pro Billet Front Leveling Kit spacer, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. You should be checking this out if you're looking for three things: if you're looking to fit larger wheels and tires comfortably up to 33-inch, if you're looking for better ground clearance at the front end, and if you're looking to reduce or even eliminate your factory rake. First and foremost, fitting larger wheels and tires on these square wheel wells is going to be pretty difficult. You're going to at least need a leveling kit to fit something bigger than your stock wheel. Fitting up to 33 inches without any rubbing is pretty easy with a 3-inch kit like this one here. It gives you just enough room to fit up to 33 inches without having to do any modification. Now, if you're looking to fit up to 35 inches, just know that anything under a 6-inch lift kit will require modification in the wheel well in order to fit them without any rubbing. Now, our truck came with 31s. We'll show you guys what that looks like along with 33s to give you an idea of how that fitment is. In addition to fitting larger wheels and tires on your truck, you should be checking this out if you're looking to eliminate factory rake. Now rake just refers to the suspension sitting lower at the front end and higher in the rear to help with towing and hauling applications off the factory line. A lot of guys don't like the way that the factory rake looks and 3 inches is actually just enough to bring your front end up enough to match the rear, getting rid of factory rate. Also, if you're looking for better ground clearance at the front end, a 3-inch kit is going to give you enough space to go over some of the smaller on and off-road obstacles comfortably without it contacting the bottom of your front bumper.Now this particular kit from Supreme Suspensions is made from a CNC cut billet aluminum with a black anodized finish on top to help with oxidation and corrosion resistance. Now the physical spacer here measures in at about 1-3/4 inches, but your final lift height after suspension geometry changes and compression changes will result in the final 3-inch lift at the front end. So even though the spacer is 1-3/4, your final lift height will be 3 inches. Now the kit here is going to come in right around 125 bucks. Install, I'm going to give two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anybody can tackle this in the driveway at home with pretty simple hand tools. You do have to take apart the front end suspension there, which is going to be a little bit more involved than say a simple cold air intake, but there's no permanent modification required. I'm going to show you guys what it looks like. It'll take you about two, maybe three hours from start to finish. What do you say we get started?Tools used in the install include an impact gun, air impact gun, 10, 15, 16, 17, and 21-millimeter deep sockets, 5.5-millimeter Allen key is recommended with an 8-millimeter hex bit or Allen key, 15, 16, and 17 wrenches, 18 ratcheting wrench recommended, flathead screwdriver, pry bar, panel removal tool, and a hammer also recommended.All right. Let's kick off the uninstall here. The first thing we want to do is remove the brake line brackets and the ABS line brackets so that when everything is loose and at full slack or full droop, it's not putting pressure on these lines. There's a 10-millimeter right here, and a 10-millimeter right there, so grab your 10 socket and get those 2 off. Now, what I like to do just so we don't lose the bolt is just thread it on a couple of threads right back in the hole while the bracket is loose. That way we know where it is. Same thing back here. Get that bracket off. I'm just going to lightly thread it back in just like that.All right. Next up, we're going to loosen up the top nut for our sway bar end link. In order to do that, however, just because there's not a whole lot of room to work with, I'm going to put a 15-millimeter wrench on the nut on top and use my 15 deep socket on the bolt going through the bottom and that'll loosen it up. All right, just like that. Now you don't have to take the entire end link straight down. Just want to grab that nut off the top and if you can, take the bushing off as well and just set those aside. All right. Next up, we're going to loosen up and remove our tie rod end. Grab your 21-millimeter deep socket and get that guy off. All right. Now, something to keep in mind here is that if you take this off, then this whole thing is going to start moving. What I'm actually going to do now that it's loose is just put the tie rod end back in and just put this in a couple of threads. We're going to want this to be pretty stable for the rest of the uninstall at least up until the point of the upper control arm coming off. So let's just keep that there for now.Next we're going to be loosening up and removing the nut on the bottom of our upper control arm where the ball joint connects to the hub here. Now, in order to do that, you're gonna grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. That's at least what I recommend because there's not a lot of room here. And this is where we want the stability of the tie rod end because we don't want this thing moving back and forth. So let's crack this guy loose. All right. Now, once this is loose, what we're going to do is take the nut completely off and then thread it back in a couple of threads. All right. So it's on a couple of threads there. Now we can grab a hammer and start tapping on the side to dislodge the ball joint. There it is. So now that we have everything loose, let's take our tie rod end completely off. I'm just going to put this nut back on so we don't lose it. Now we can swivel this guy out. Going to push down and remove the nut here. Okay. Once this nut is off, I'm gonna set that guy aside. This upper control arm is going to pop out. So you just want to be there to support it. Make sure the lines are out of the way, and now that's free.Now we want to remove the two bottom strut bolts. They're 17 millimeters. Keep in mind, once these two guys come out, the entire lower control arm is going to drop down, so just watch your head. The next step here is to remove the top three nuts. They're 18 millimeters. And then the entire strut will come out. Before we can do that, grab a panel removal tool or something similar. There are these little clips holding onto the front stud and then the one closest to the front of the vehicle here on our driver side. Just going to pop those guys off. Same thing on the opposite side as well. So once you have those off, grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and get those 3 off. Okay, once you have all three off, the strut will drop down and you can take it off. Okay. Set it aside. Now, when it comes to the uninstall, you can repeat that exact same process on the other side.First step for the assembly, grab the hex bolts included in the kit. We're going to go right through the bottom there, just like that, into the larger holes and start threading them by hand. From there, you want to grab your 8-millimeter hex key or Allen key. You're going to tighten it down. Now we can drop it on the top of our strut. Next up, you want to take your strut. I like to put it between my legs just to stabilize it. We're going to drop the spacer right on top. It only goes on one way. Once you do have it on, drop the nuts included in the kit onto the factory studs, grab your 17-millimeter deep socket and tighten them down. All right. Now we can install the strut back into the truck. Now you can take your strut, feed it up into the strut tower and use your factory bolts and tighten it down. I'm just gonna put one factory bolt on there lightly just to hold it in place. Now we can put a jack underneath of the lower control arm.Now, our factory bottom strut bolts did strip out so we have to replace them. I'm going to be replacing them with a bolt just like this, and a nut on the bottom. So, with that said, I popped off the threaded nut on top, and we're just no longer going to be using that. I'm going to be going through the bottom. Now, if you're using your factory bolts and they're in good condition, you want to go up through the bottom and tighten them down to the bottom of the strut. But again, we're replacing our hardware, so I'm just going to do that now. So we lifted the car up in the air just to get a better angle at it, giving this guy a couple of final taps, and then we'll put our nut on the bottom. All right. So now we can start tightening that down. All right, 17 socket and wrench and tighten that down. Same thing for the other bolt. All right. So now I can tap the other guy into place and tighten it down.Next up, we're going to focus on our upper control arm. I'm going to put a pry bar on top of it underneath of the coil to help pry down. I'm going to take this nut off here, lift up the knuckle, set it into place, pry down, and put the nut underneath. All right. Now I do have a jack underneath our lower control arm to help push that upward so that way we get enough threads underneath. Now we can tighten that down. In order to prevent our upper control arm ball joint from spinning, I'm going to set our tie rod end into place to hold the knuckle steady, put the nut underneath. All right. Next up, I know it might be tough to see, but we're going to tighten down that upper control arm nut. If you need to hold that steady, you're going to use this Allen key in the tip of the stud. You're going to put your 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench on there first and then feel your way up to put the Allen key in place. Now we can tighten it down. There we go. Next, grab your 21 socket and tighten down your tie rod end. Next, we can do our sway bar end link. Put your end link through the bottom sleeve in the middle. And it looks like we're going to need to pry up on our sway bar in order to get the sleeve to fit on the inside, so let's grab a pry bar to pry that up. Your bushing on and then the nut on top and then we'll tighten it down with our 15 socket and wrench. Next, we can do the three nuts at the top of the strut tower. If you haven't already put those on, you can put them on now. Grab your 18 and tighten it down. So once you have everything tightened down, you want to make sure you're looking up the torque specs for your specific gen and trim package, torque down all of your bolts, and then I definitely recommend getting an alignment. From there, you're good to go.That's going to wrap up my review and install for the Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Front Leveling Kit spacers, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. Get yours right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Front Strut Spacer Leveling Kit. Allow your 2007-2018 Chevy Silverado 1500 to accommodate larger rim and tires using the Supreme Suspensions 3 in. Pro-Billet Front Strut Spacer Leveling Kit. It is designed to precisely lift and level your truck for the ride you want.
CNC Machined. These front strut spacers come in a pair and are made of CNC machined T6 aircraft billet with an anodized coating. It is entirely rust and corrosion resistant, able to keep its shape no matter how heavy the load.
Warranty. This front strut spacer leveling kit is protected by a limited lifetime warranty with a 30-day satisfaction guarantee, which protects purchasers from any defects in materials and workmanship.
Installation. There is a medium level of difficulty in installing this product with an accompanying instruction manual; no special tools needed.
Application. The Supreme Suspensions 3 in. Pro-Billet Front Strut Spacer Leveling Kit is compatible with the 2007-2018 Chevy Silverado 1500.
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Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
Supreme Suspensions CHSL07FL3000
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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