(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Hey, guys. It's Sara with americantrucks.com, and today we have a review and install of the Supreme Suspensions 2.5-Inch Pro Billet Strut Spacer Leveling Kit, fitting your '04 to '21 F150 two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive models, excluding the Raptor. This kit is perfect for the F150 owner who's looking for a budget-friendly leveling solution to even out their truck's factory rake and get you some more room for wheels and tires. This kit provides 2.5 inches of front lift, reducing the factory rake and giving your truck a more level appearance while maintaining stock ride quality. These spacers feature a CNC billet aluminum construction with a black finish for strength and corrosion-resistance and include all required mounting hardware. Now, I did wanna point out that the spacers themselves measure in out about 2 inches. Now, the additional half-inch will come from the change in suspension geometry made by installing this kit. Now, depending on the model of your truck stock tire sizes may vary. For reference in this video, our stock tire size is about a 31 and the recommended tire to run with this kit is up to a 33-inch tire.So, as far as price goes, this one comes in at around $150, making it one of the most budget-friendly ways to level your truck and makes more room for wheels and tires. I'm giving this install a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does feature a direct bolt-up installation but you will want a professional alignment afterwards. All in all, it can be done within two hours. So, let's take a look at our install.For this install, you will need an impact gun or a ratchet will work just fine. You'll also need 21-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 10-millimeter and 8-millimeter sockets, 5-millimeter and 8-millimeter Allen keys or Allen sockets. You might also want a swivel extension, a pry bar, you'll need 17-millimeter and 15-millimeter ratcheting wrenches, a flathead screwdriver, a vacuum pump, caliper hanger, and a hammer.All right, so our first step in the uninstall is to remove the brake and ABS lines on the side of our knuckle here. So, grab an 8-millimeter and a 10-millimeter socket and let's get these out. We're gonna start with the 8-mil right here. Go ahead and get it removed. And then the 10-mil right behind it. Next up we're gonna disconnect the sway bar, there's an 18-millimeter nut on the bottom of your lower control arm. Go ahead and get your 18-millimeter socket and get it removed. Next up grab a 21-millimeter socket and remove the nut on the bottom of your outer tie rod. And if it doesn't release on its own, you can hit it lightly with a hammer, but if it does release on its own, go ahead and pop it out. Next up we're gonna remove the caliper by removing two 21-millimeter bolts at the caliper bracket. Grab your 21-millimeter socket and let's get these removed. And once your caliper is removed, go ahead and hang it out of the way so there's no tension on your brake line.All right, now we can remove our rotor. If it doesn't wanna come off freely like ours does, you can tap it on the backside with a rubber mallet where your caliper just was. Go ahead and wiggle it off and remove it. We are also gonna remove the dust shield, there's three 8-millimeter bolts around the outside, get all three of these removed. Next up we're gonna remove the ABS line, this is a 5-millimeter Allen key. So, with an Allen key or Allen socket, go ahead and get this removed. And from there you can wiggle the sensor loose and put it to the side. We also need to pop off the dust shield for our axle nut. We're gonna use a small flathead and just work it loose around the outside. All right, now what we're gonna do is remove this air line on the back of your knuckle so that we can pull suction back here and we can disconnect our axle without damaging the four-wheel drive.All right, so our next step here is what I'm gonna be doing is removing this knuckle to give ourselves more space to get the strut out. Now, you don't have to do this but it does make it a ton easier in my opinion. Now, in order to get this knuckle out, what we have to do is on the back of the knuckle where we just remove that air line, you have to put this line on here that's go into our vacuum pump. We're gonna pull 20 pounds of pressure to release the four-wheel-drive actuator so we don't damage it when we remove our knuckle. We're gonna slide our tube over the larger port in the back of the knuckle and go ahead and pull suction. We're gonna get about 20 PSI, and make sure this holds while we remove the knuckle. And with our vacuum line on the back of the knuckle, we can remove this nut on the front of the axle, this is a 13-millimeter. So, with your 13-millimeter socket get this removed. All right, now we can disconnect the top of our knuckle from our upper control arm. This is an 18-millimeter nut. So, with an 18-millimeter socket and you may want a swivel extension get this removed. Now, our upper control arm did release the ball joint from the knuckle. If yours doesn't, you can tap on the side here to release it. Then once it is released, with a pry bar, we're just gonna pry down on the upper control arm so we can remove the nut and then slowly release it out of our knuckle.All right, now if it didn't come out on its own, you can pull your knuckle forward, make sure you're still pulling pressure on the back of it, and start to pull your axle out of your knuckle. Now, with a 21-millimeter socket, you can remove the nut that's holding on your knuckle to your lower control arm. Now, this is the last thing is holding your knuckle on. And although it may stay in the ball joint, make sure you're supporting this just in case it comes loose. Go ahead and get your 21-millimeter socket and remove this nut. All right, now, if your ball joint does release, you can go ahead and slide the knuckle off the truck and remove it.So, we still have our suction pulled on our knuckle and I just want to show you guys why we are pulling vacuum on the back here. You should see this gear along the inside move back into place when we release our pressure. And that is what you risk tearing if you don't pull vacuum on the back of your knuckle.All right at this point, we're gonna remove two 18-millimeter nuts on the bottom of our strut assembly. So, with an 18-millimeter socket get these removed. Next up, we're gonna remove the nuts on the top of the studs of our strut. There are three of these, two in the front here and then one in the back that might be a little bit harder to see. With a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench got these removed. Now we're leaving one of our nuts slightly threaded on the top just to hold this strut assembly in place, then what we're gonna do is press down to release the strut out of the bottom of the lower control arm. Remove the nut up top and slide out your strut assembly.All right, so before we can get our spacer installed on the top of our strut, we do need to put these bolts through the bottom of the spacer on the side that seats to the top of the strut. You'll see a shoulder inside of the spacer, what you're gonna do is grab the Allen head hardware, start to thread it into the holes that are threaded. Now, you should see it come through the other side. And then what you're gonna do is take an 8-millimeter Allen key or an Allen socket and tighten it down. Now you can see the stud poking through, we're gonna repeat that for the next two holes.With our studs in place, you can now line up the holes on the spacer with your factory studs. Now, this only is one way that this goes on. So, if it doesn't line up, turn it until it does. Next, what we're gonna do is grab the factory nuts and thread them on. If it is a little bit difficult, you can always use the 15-millimeter socket to help you thread it in place. Make sure your spacer is centered over the stud and then grab a 15-millimeter socket and tighten it down.At this point, we can slide the strut assembly back up into the top. Make sure that you have it seated in such a way that it lines up with the top three studs and the bottom two. All right, so we have a pry bar in here for the lower control arm and we're gonna grab a friend to help us pry down on this while we line up the strut and line it up into place. Now, we're working with the bottom of the lower control arm, we see the factory studs for our strut poking out of the bottom, thread on your factory nuts. And with an 18-millimeter socket, tighten it down.Now that we have the bottom bolts seated, what we're gonna do is install the nuts over the top studs. We're using a washer, a lock washer, and the included nut. So, let's get these threaded on. Now again, we're doing the front ones here. There is one in the back that might be a little bit harder to see, but it works off the same process. Washer, lock washer, and then thread your nut on. Next up, with a 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench, we're gonna tighten these down.All right, now I can re-install the knuckle. We're gonna slide it over the lower ball joint as well as the axle, sort of line them up simultaneously. And make sure you're still pulling pressure while you do this. And once you can see a few threads of the lower ball joint popping through the bottom of your knuckle, thread your nut on. Now, with a 21-millimeter socket, tighten down the nut for your lower ball joint. All right, so what we're doing now is using a floor jack to bring the angle of the lower control arm up a bit so we can get a better angle for the axle to go back into our knuckle and get our upper control arm seated.And then once you can see some threads of your axle go through your knuckle, go ahead and thread your factory nut back on. And with your 13-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now we're gonna line the knuckle up with the upper control arm, you may need to jack up a little bit more to get this in place. And then what we're gonna do is use a pry bar up top and pry it down on our upper control arm so we can see threads through the knuckle and then thread the nut back on. Now, we're gonna keep our pry bar in place, because what we're gonna do when we tighten it down is pry down on the ball joint so it doesn't spin.All right, now we have our 18-millimeter socket with a swivel, and again what I'm gonna do here is pry down right above the upper ball joint to hold it in place while I tighten it down. This point, we can line up our outer tie rod with the end of our knuckle and grab the nut and thread it on. Then with a 21-millimeter socket, tighten it down.At this point, we can now release vacuum for our four-wheel drive and remove the tube on the back of the knuckle and line up and replace our factory tube. Next up what we're gonna do is line up our ABS line around the front of our knuckle, line it up in the opening, and thread the factory Allen bolt back in. Then with a 5-millimeter Allen key or Allen socket, go ahead and tighten this down. Next, we can replace the dust cover over the end of our axle nut. Press it into place and if it doesn't fully seat, you can gently tap it with a hammer. Next up we can replace the dust shield. Make sure this cutout on the top is nicely seated over your ABS line so it doesn't get damaged and then replace the factory hardware. Next up grab your 8-millimeter socket and tighten these down. Now we can get our rotor on, we're gonna line it up over the studs. And then a nice trick I like to use with this so we can get our caliper bolted on, thread on a nut to keep it from sliding back off.Once you have the rotor in place, grab your caliper and line it back up over top of the rotor, and start to line up your bolts in the back of the knuckle. Grab a 21-millimeter socket and tighten it down. All right, now you're gonna grab your nut and thread it on the bottom of your sway bar end link. You may want a socket to help you line it up. And then what we're gonna do is grab our 18-millimeter socket and tighten it down. And now we're gonna line back up the bracket for our brake line as well as our ABS line and get the bolts to thread them back into our knuckle. We're starting with the 8-millimeter bolt for the ABS line. We're gonna thread it through the plastic bracket. And with our 8-millimeter socket, we're gonna tighten it down. And you're gonna line the brake line bracket up with the knuckle, grab your 10-millimeter bolt and thread it through your bracket, and then grab your 10-millimeter socket and tighten it down.All right, so now that this side is complete, you wanna repeat all of those steps on the other side. Make sure everything is torqued to spec and make sure you're getting a professional alignment afterwards. But that is gonna do it for the review and install of this leveling kit. And remember for all things F150, keep it at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Leveling Kit Location||Front|
|Leveling Kit Lift Height||2.50 Inch|
|Leveling Kit Includes Shocks||Shocks Not Included|
Customized Ride. Supreme Suspensions continues to bring you cutting-edge lift and accessory products that give your F-150 a truly customized ride. The Supreme Suspensions 2.5 in. Pro Billet Strut Spacer Leveling Kit is CNC machined from solid billet aluminum blocks for strength and durability. This product won’t warp or compress under massive loads.
Unmatched Performance. Covered in Supreme Suspensions own anodized coating, this product will stand up in the harshest of conditions.
Innovative Design. This durable leveling kit is developed by ASE certified specialists and will accommodate larger custom rims and tires.
Installation. The installation for this product is an intermediate level and can be accomplished in 2 hours or less. No special tools are required for completion.
Warranty. Supreme Suspensions will cover any defect or blemish that may arise in the materials or craftsmanship with a Limited Lifetime Warranty.
Application. The Supreme Suspensions 2.5 in. Pro Billet Strut Spacer Leveling Kit fits all 2004-2023 Ford F-150 2WD/4WD models, excluding Raptor.
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Supreme Suspensions FDF104FL2500
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(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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