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Rough Country 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted N3 Struts and Premium N3 Shocks (19-23 4WD RAM 1500 w/o Air Ride, Excluding TRX)

Item R115531
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      Video Review & Installation

      Jake here for American Trucks. And today, I am taking a look at this Rough Country 3.5-inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with the Lifted N3 Struts and N3 Premium Shocks, for 2019 and newer 4-wheel drive RAM 1500s without Air Ride, Excluding the TRX. If you're looking for a comprehensive and budget-friendly way to get some extra height for off-roading, or to run some bigger tires on your 2019 or newer RAM 1500 4 by 4, you're gonna wanna check out this kit from Rough Country. Now, this is a bolt-on, all-inclusive lift kit that is gonna get you 3.5 inches of extra height, and level out the stance of your RAM 1500, all while maintaining stock ride quality, and allowing you to keep your overall suspension geometry very similar to stock.Now, this, again, is a 3.5-inch lift. It's gonna provide you with enough clearance to run some larger tires on your truck as well. Rough Country says that you can fit up to 33-inch tires without any clearance issues, and they do fit quite well, as you'll be able to see on our truck. Some of our own customers and many RAM owners on forums have also claimed to run 35-inch tires, reportedly without issues, though I would recommend sticking with 33s just to ensure that you don't run into any problems. Now, Rough Country does include some great things in this kit, but let's start here with these upper control arms. Now, these are billed as heavy-duty upper control arms, and as you can see, they include Clevite rubber bushings on both sides already pressed in, plus a new ball joint. So they're gonna provide excellent absorption of road impacts. Now, the arms themselves are forged aluminum, much like your stock control arms, so they're pretty lightweight, but they have a lot of structural integrity, enough to hold up to whatever abuse you can throw at them.Now, you might have also noticed that the ball joints here are angled to accommodate for the lift. So, despite adding quite a bit of height, these are gonna keep things pretty close to your factory suspension geometry, which, again, will help maintain the factory ride quality, and provide for a full range of motion, so you can take advantage of that added height. But, the headliner for the front end at least are these N3 premium struts. These are going to combine with the control arms to give you 3.5 inches of lift up front. And as you can see, they come preassembled, so there's no need to mess with spring compressors or anything like that. Just bolt them right in and you're ready to go. Now, these are nitrogen-charged shocks and they feature infinitely variable damping, so it's gonna give you a smooth, almost-stock ride quality. But they're also designed specifically for lifted applications.Now, damping is tuned to keep the ride smooth out on the road, while still doing a good job of absorbing impacts and controlling rebound out on the trail. As you can see, the bodies of these shocks have this massive 1 and 3/8-inch bore, and this hardened chrome piston rod, so they're gonna stand up to the elements quite well too. And that nitrogen charging helps with heat dissipation as well, so even under really aggressive off-roading conditions, if they're going up and down really fast, these shocks aren't gonna suffer from fade. So that means you can use them to their full extent without worrying about fade or losing control of your truck. Out back, we have a standard coil spring spacer that's gonna lift up the springs and help maintain the stock geometry. Now, the spacers are made of this heavy-gauge steel, and they're powder-coated black, to keep them inconspicuous and help protect them from the elements.Now, the spacers themselves measure about 2.25 inches, but again, this is gonna combine with the other pieces of the lift to give you 2.5 inches of lift overall in the rear. You also get a set of Rough Country's premium N3 shocks included with the kit for the rear. Now, just like the fronts, these are nitrogen-charged shocks, and they have variable damping, with these big shock bodies, so they're gonna keep things controlled out back. And between these and the front struts, you're gonna get the height you want without sacrificing control or ride quality. So, with that 3.5-inch lift up front, and about a 2.5-inch lift in the rear, this also functions as a leveling kit, so it's going to eliminate the rake that RAMs come with from the factory. Instead of sitting a bit lower in the front and a little higher in the rear, once you've got all of this installed, it's gonna pretty much sit even front to back.Now, I do wanna touch on the price for a moment here, because that is also a big feature of this kit. Coming in around $1,050, I think this kit represents pretty good value for your money. You're getting high-quality pieces like these control arms with the new bushings and ball joints, and of course, the front struts, and the rear shocks. Overall, I think this is a really good kit for your money, and it's gonna undercut some of the other lifts out there on the market without skimping on features, quality, or the all-important factor, height. It is all-encompassing, too, so you can buy this, bolt it in, and you don't have to think about purchasing any other parts to get your truck lifted up.As far as install goes, this one gets a three out of three on our difficulty meter, and you should budget about six hours or so to get it installed. This is certainly something you can do at home in your driveway, especially since everything you need to get it done is in the box, including new hardware. But it is a bit of an involved job. If you aren't necessarily comfortable disassembling suspension components, professional installation is always an option. But again, this is something you can do at home, and there are no modifications needed to your truck. Just bolt it all in and you're ready to hit the road. One caveat, though, is that I will say make sure you get your truck aligned once you've got everything buttoned up and given it a day or two to settle.And with that, let's head over to the install bay, where we'll show you how to get this installed on your RAM.Tools used in this install include an impact wrench, a ratchet, an 8-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 16-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 21-millimeter, 24-millimeter, and 36-millimeter sockets, a 15-millimeter, 16-millimeter, 18-millimeter, and 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a 21-millimeter wrench, an adjustable wrench and/or pair of vise grips, a clip removal tool, a caliper hanger, a hammer, a floor jack, and also a pole jack.Hi, everyone. Today, we're gonna be installing a lift kit on our 2019 RAM 1500 here. Now, before we do that, of course, we gotta take the stock parts off. As you can see, our truck is already up in the air, and I've gone ahead and pulled the wheels off of it. So, if you haven't done that yet, you're gonna wanna start with that. Next, we're gonna get into the uninstall, where we're gonna be pulling out our strut, and dissembling all this front suspension. So, we'll do that, get into the install for this, and then we'll head to the back.All right. The first thing we're gonna do is take out the lower strut mounting bolt here. So, this is a 21-millimeter on the bolt head, and the nut on the other side is a 24-millimeter. So, I'm gonna get my air gun with the 24-millimeter socket on it, and I've got my 21-millimeter wrench, so we're gonna go ahead and pop that right out now. And once we do that, we're gonna go ahead and continue with the rest of the disassembly, taking all this stuff out so we can get our strut out.All right. So, we're gonna start by undoing this lower strut mounting bolt. So, again, this is 21-millimeter on the bolt head, so I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench on that side. I'm gonna take my impact gun on this side, with the 24-millimeter socket on it. We're just gonna loosen this up. All right. And that nut should come off, and that bolt should come right out, just like that. We're gonna save this hardware, because we are gonna, may reuse this later.All right. Next, we'll go ahead and loosen up our brake lines up here, and we can start dissembling the rest of it. Before we go any further, I'm gonna go ahead and release this wheel speed sensor cable, because I wanna get a little bit of slack on this. And we're also gonna be replacing this upper control arm, so I need to have some slack on this line. So, you have one clip here that just pops out, and then two more, one here on the upper control arm, and then another one further up here on the frame. I'm gonna release all three, so that we have quite a bit of slack on this. Now, this one, we can just pop off like that. And the other two are gonna require either some kind of flathead screwdriver or a clip removal tool like this one. I'm gonna go ahead, pop that one off. I'll do the same thing up here. Next, we're gonna take off the nut on the bottom of our sway bar end link here. This is an 18-millimeter nut, so I'm just gonna take my gun. Once we got that on, we'll just loosen it up.Now, this may not separate until we lower this lower control arm, but hang on to this nut, because we are gonna reuse it later. All right. The next thing I'm gonna do is loosen this nut on the bottom of the ball joint on our upper control arm. Now, we wanna do this right here in this step, because we've still got stability from this tie rod end being connected. So, I'm gonna get this nice and loose, but not take it all the way off. Then we will loosen our tie rod end, and then we'll separate this ball joint right here. So, I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench right here, and just loosen this guy up. So, we're gonna get this down to the point where it's just hanging on by a couple of threads, so we have some maneuverability in here. Next, what we're gonna do again is go down here, and we're gonna loosen up this tie rod end, so that we have some movement on the knuckle when we're done. Then, once we've got that done, we'll come back up here, we'll separate the ball joint from the knuckle itself, and then we can move on with the rest of the process.So, next, we're going to release that nut on the bottom of our tie rod end here. So, again, this is just a 21-millimeter nut, take that on the impact gun here. And again, hang on to that, because we're going to reuse it. All right. Now that we've got everything we need loosened up, we're gonna go ahead and separate the ball joint from the knuckle here. Now, I've taken a floor jack and supported the lower control arm because I don't want this just to fall out of the way, but I do wanna get this to separate. So, I'm gonna take my ball peen hammer here, and I'm gonna smack this guy. Just like that, till it separates.Now, you may have to do a little bit of whacking on this. If you have a ball joint separator, you can also use that here, but the hammer method usually works pretty well. Just make sure that you're hitting on the knuckle itself, not the control arm or the ball joint itself here. So, now that we've got that done, we're gonna go ahead and release this nut here. We can take this guy off. Again, we're holding onto this because we're gonna need it again, and we'll be able to separate these guys out. So, again, this is where the floor jack comes in handy, because I'm just lowering it down so that we can get that out, and our tie rod end will come out as well.Once you've got the tie rod end out, I recommend taking that nut and putting it back on here, so that you don't lose track of what goes where. Just gonna set that aside, make sure everything's coming out real nice. All right. Now, as you can see, once everything kind of separated, we got a lot of movement here, especially on the knuckle. So, I've gone ahead and taken my floor jack. You can use a jack stand, whatever you want, just to support this, so the whole thing's not gonna come pulling down, because it is also hanging on by this soft brake line here, which we have not undone, because that's gonna require a whole lot of other stuff that we don't need to do.So, once you've got that supported, we can go ahead and start taking the strut out. So, we're gonna go up there and undo the three bolts at the top of the strut next. Next, I'm going to remove the three nuts at the top of the strut so we can remove the strut from the truck itself. These are just 16-millimeter nuts. So, I'm gonna take my ratcheting wrench here, get all three of these broken loose. And now that I've got them loose, I'm just gonna go ahead and start taking them out one by one. Once all three of those are free, we can get ready to remove the strut from the truck.All right. Now we have everything undone that we need to do, so it's time to take the strut out of the truck. So, we have to do a couple of things here. First is, I'm gonna brace my hand on the top of this knuckle here, because I don't want this to fall out. I don't want it to pull the axle out of the CV joints here. And I also don't wanna put too much pressure on this soft brake line, because this one on this side is pretty short. However, we are gonna need some clearance. So, what I'm gonna do is hold this knuckle, and then I'm gonna lower down my floor jack, so I have this lower control arm kind of out of the way. Then I can push down on it, and I can pull the strut out, starting with the bottom, and then just take it out this way.So, I'm gonna go ahead and do that now. So, again, grabbing that knuckle. I'm bracing it here. I also kind of have my knee underneath of this brake caliper. Now, if you want some extra clearance and you wanna do that, you can unhook this caliper on this side, set it out of the way. But for sake of simplicity, we're just gonna do it like this. So, again, I'm gonna gently lower my floor jack, keeping an eye on this brake line and our axle. All right. Once I've got that pretty much out of the way, you see there's a little bit of play on this lower control arm here. That should be just enough to get our strut out. Now, if yours is dropped down like ours has, like this, you're gonna wanna go back up with it first, and pull it down just a little bit on that lower control arm, and pull the strut out. Once you've got that done, I'm gonna go ahead and jack up this lower control arm again, to take the pressure off of the axle and that soft brake line.Now that we have our strut out, it's important to just take note of the orientation of this. So, this is how it came out, with the spring perch basically facing towards the front of the truck. Our new struts are gonna go in exactly the same way. Now, these should only go in one way, but it's important to take note of that as well. The other thing we're gonna do with this kit, because it comes with new upper control arms, is we're gonna take this one out. So, that's gonna be our next step. We're gonna set the strut aside, take this out, replace the new control arm, and then we'll be able to put the new strut in. All right. Now that we have our strut out of the way, because we're replacing the upper control arm with this kit, we're gonna have to go ahead and undo these bolts on either side. Now, the nice part is they've got these little tabs on the back, which we are gonna reuse, that are gonna keep these nuts from spinning, so we can just put a wrench on the outside.Now, these are 21-millimeter bolts. I'm gonna use my breaker bar, because these guys are a little tight here. Just get this one started, because they are pretty darn tight. There's not a lot of clearance in here to get a gun in. All right. Once I've got that one loose, I'll go ahead and do the same thing on the other side, and I'll start taking these out. And that one's coming loose already pretty quickly. So, now I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench. I'm just gonna work these guys loose. You can see that tab is gonna move down here, hold the nut in place, and allow us to just take this bolt right out. All right. Once we've got that bolt out, can do the same thing on the other side. We are gonna retain these. We're gonna need these for the new ones, so make sure you set them aside. All right. We're gonna do the same thing over here. Now that we've got that broken loose, we'll let that tab do some of the work for us. Once we've got that loosened up most of the way, should be able to just back it out with your hand. Again, we're gonna hold onto that. So pick it up off the floor, pull the bolt out, and we can remove our upper control arm.Now that we have our strut and our control arm out, we're gonna need to make a little bit of extra room, because, again, we are putting in a larger strut than the one that came out here from the factory. So, what I'm gonna do next is I'm going to undo our caliper. I'm gonna move that out of the way, because we don't wanna put any tension on this soft brake line. So, I've got my hook over here already. I'm just gonna undo the two bolts on the back of the carrier, take this whole thing off in one shot. Once that's done, I'm gonna loosen up the axle nut here, so we can move the axle out of the knuckle a little bit. That should give us just enough room to get our lower control arm in place, where we can get that strut in, and get our bolts done up. So, again, I'm gonna start with the caliper here, and then we'll move on to the axle nut.All right. So, to get our caliper off, I'm gonna pull off this bolt and this one right here. Again, just taking my 21-millimeter, backing those out. All right. Once that's loose, can pull this off in one shot. We'll take our caliper hook here, and we're gonna hang it right on the frame, right here. Just like that. Next, we're gonna undo this axle nut here. This is a 36-millimeter bolt, so I've got my big old 36-millimeter socket on here, just on our impact gun. And we're just gonna loosen this up. I'm not gonna take it out all the way, because I need to get a little bit of room on it to bang this out, so we can pull the axle and separate it from the knuckle. All right. I'm gonna back this on a couple of threads here, just so that I can get this later, and we can get this out. Okay. Now that this is loose, I'm gonna take my floor jack and I'm just gonna start to lower the knuckle a little bit. Just go slow with this, because it is gonna fall. And if you need to, you can take your hammer here, couple of hits. That should start to back the axle out.So, once that's moved, like ours has, I'm gonna take this nut off, set that aside, then I can continue to lower my knuckle down, and the axle will pull out. Again, this should give us just enough room to get our new strut on here. [inaudible 00:18:16] If you need a little bit more room, just tap there on the shaft. Just watch this ABS line, too, when you go to pull this out, so you're not putting a ton of extra pressure on it. If you need to, you can unhook it a little bit further up. But ours is good for where it is right now. Now that we've got everything apart, we can start the assembly process. So, the first thing we're gonna do is actually jump ahead and put the strut in so we can start putting this back together, and then we'll go ahead and put on the upper control arm.All right. Now that we have everything disassembled, we're ready to go ahead and start installing our new struts and upper control arms. So, I'm going to start with the strut, only because I wanna get this knuckle and everything back together first. So, we're gonna go ahead and put this in. It is important, again, to note the orientation of this. You've got this tiny little part, sort of triangular up here, and the other part back here is flat. This part is going to face out of the truck's wheel well, just like it did on our stock one. It's a little more obvious with this. So, we're gonna take off these new nuts because these are what we're gonna use to get this secured. I'll set those aside, and we can go ahead and slide this in. So, I'm gonna feed it in up top. I'm gonna push down on my knuckle and my lower control arm here. Now, that we've got our axle separated, we should have just enough room to get this in. All right. That's about where it needs to be. So, now we can go ahead and start putting stuff back together.Okay. Now that we have our strut in place, the next thing I wanna do is get this axle back together, because I don't want the whole thing hanging around too long. So, I'm gonna take my axle here. I'm just gonna make sure the spines line up with the hub. Should just slide right back in like that. We'll just get our nut started on the front here. You can just get that on as far as you can by hand. That way, it's in place. And then I'm gonna go ahead and jack up our knuckle here, so I can wanna take the pressure off of this, so we can take pressure off of the axle. Now, this is gonna be quite a bit tighter, because, again, we've got a larger strut in here than we did from the factory. So, once that's kind of back up in the air, we're gonna go ahead and take our gun, and we'll just tighten that back down.All right. Next, we're gonna put on our new upper control arm. So, these have bit more of an angle to them. They're gonna fit a lot nicer with this lift. Now, it's important to know the orientation of these. This RC logo is going to be towards the front of the truck. It'll be the same way on both sides. So, we're just gonna go ahead and slide this into place. This may take a little encouragement to get where it needs to go. We may need to finesse this around because, again, we've got new bushings on here. So it's a lot tighter than the original one. So, once you've got that kind of set where it needs to be, we're gonna go ahead and take our original hardware from our old upper control arm, and we're gonna reuse that to mount these up. So, I'm just gonna get the bolt, try and get this started.All right. There we go. It's a little bit of a guessing game to get those where they need to be. Then you'll take this piece with the captive nut here on the back, and that's gonna slide in right in its original place. I'm just gonna get that bolt started by hand. You can just kind of set it in there. As soon as it grabs, you're good to go. And we'll do the same thing on the other side here, with the other bolt and this tab with the captive nut. There we go. And same thing over here. And the nice thing about these is that you don't need to hold them when you tighten them. So, once we've got those started, I'll take my 21-millimeter wrench. I'll just start tightening those down. As you start to get these tight, it's gonna put some tension on the bushings and hold this control arm up a little bit more, so you can take advantage of that. Help keep it where we want it. I'm not gonna tighten these all the way, till we know we've got everything lined up where it needs to be. Go ahead and do the same thing on this side. And again, at a certain point, that'll pretty much just stay up under its own, with the tension that you've got on here. And we'll just leave that where it is until we're ready to attach this ball joint back into the knuckle. I did go ahead and put the new supplied nut on here, so that I don't lose it, and I can just put this on when we're ready to go.All right. Next, we're going to put in new nuts at the top of our strut. So, we're gonna use the ones that were supplied with this. Just get them started by hand. A little bit here. We're not gonna go too tight. And these are 15-millimeter nuts. We got them just barely snug. We're gonna leave them right where they are, because next we're gonna go ahead and do the lower strut bolt, so we get everything aligned here, then we can go back and tighten them up completely. Next thing we're gonna do is put in our lower strut mount bolt. So, we're gonna be reusing the bolt that came out of the original setup, and we're gonna put it this right through here, feed it through the bushing, and then we'll put the nut on the other side.Now, this is gonna be kind of a three-handed operation, so it's good practice here. Grab a friend, he's gonna push down on the knuckle here. I'm gonna push on the strut itself, and we're gonna feed the bolt in, get it into place and then we can tighten it up. So, Alex, if you'd do me the honor of pushing down on that. I'll push down on this, get it lined up, so the bolt will go all the way in, and then we can let go, and put our nut on the backside.Now that we've got that lower strut bolt in, we're gonna go ahead and tighten that up. So, this is a 21-millimeter bolt head, and on the back, we have a 24-millimeter nut, so I'm gonna just put my impact gun on the back here, wrench on the front, and we're just gonna tighten this guy down. All right. Just get that nice and tight. We can go ahead and start doing up the rest of it. We're gonna go back up and do those nuts up at the top of the strut. Now we're gonna go ahead and tighten up these nuts on the top of the strut. So I'm gonna take my 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench and just tighten these down. Now that they're nice and snug, that's nice and tight, we can go ahead and do up our ball joint.All right. Next, we're gonna go ahead and get our upper ball joint into place. So, we're gonna move this knuckle here, and just kind of guide this down, most of the way in. Should be able to get that nut on. Just start threading it in. And we don't have to get this all the way. Just get it a few threads, because we're gonna go ahead and get some other things tightened up before we get this cinched all the way down. So, for now, that's gonna be good, and leave that where it is. We'll go ahead and do the tie rod next.Now, to give us a little bit more stability, we're gonna go ahead and put our tie rod back on. So, we're just gonna undo that nut from earlier. Push that guy down. Should seat itself pretty much all the way down there. Get that nut started. And we'll just take our 21-millimeter, tighten that guy up. All right. Now we've got a lot more stability on our knuckle here, so we'll be able to tighten our upper ball joint and get our sway bar end link back into place.Now I wanna do up our upper ball joint the rest of the way. So, what I'm gonna do is use my floor jack here, just push this up into position a little bit more. All right. Now that we've got that there, you can go ahead and tighten this guy up. Now, clearance is a little bit tight on this knuckle here, so I'm just using an open-ended wrench. All right. Once we've got that nice and tight, we'll go ahead and finish tightening up the bolts on the bushings for the upper control arm. All right. Now we're just gonna go back and we're going to tighten up our upper control arms the rest of the way. You shouldn't have too much more to go, but we just wanna check on them, make sure they're good. That should be about good there. So, now that we have that, we're gonna put our ABS line back into place. We'll do up our sway bar end link, and then we'll put our caliper back on, and then this corner's about done.Next, we'll go ahead and put our ABS line back into place. So, I'm gonna use this grommet right here, slide that right back into this carrier that we took it out of earlier, and we'll go up and put the other clips back in up here. And we just have this clip up here, the mounting point for the upper control arm. That just slides back into place as well. Now, this clip is the one that came off of our stock upper control arm. Since we don't have a provision for that on here, we're just gonna let it hang, which is good, because we need a little bit of slack in this cable anyway.Now we're gonna put our caliber back on. So, I'm just gonna take this gently off of its hook here, slide back over the rotor. And we'll take our bolts. Sometimes easier to start the lower one first. All right. Once you've got your bolts started, we're just gonna go ahead and tighten them up. Make sure you're going the right way. Now, I'm using a ratchet on it this time because you wanna make sure these are tightened right, and also because, as you can see, clearance is a little bit tighter, now that we've got our strut and everything back in. Once we got the top one snugged up, we'll go ahead and do the same thing down here on the bottom.Now that we've got that done, we can move on to the next step. Next, I'm just gonna clip our ABS line and our brake line back together here. It just goes right back into that little plastic bracket. All right. Now that we have everything pretty much buttoned up on this side of the truck, we're gonna go ahead and repeat the same process on the other side. Now, you might have noticed there was one thing we did not do over here, and that was to put the nut back onto the bottom of the end link for our sway bar here. And I'm gonna skip that step right now, because I wanna go ahead and get everything done on the other side of the truck, so the tension on the sway bar is even. That's gonna give us the best chance of getting this on in one shot. Now, you could put some leverage on this sway bar, get it down into the lower control arm, and do up this nut. I think it's gonna be easier and probably a little bit safer to do it the other way, so I'm gonna go ahead, do the other side of the truck, get that all together, and then I'll do up my nuts on the sway bars at the same time.Now that I have the other side completed, the last thing I need to do over here is put the nut on the bottom of my sway bar end link. Now, again, I went ahead and did the other side of everything first, got the new strut, control arm, etc., in, and have everything tightened up over there. So, that just kind of moved the sway bar back into position, so it was even on both sides. So, I can just take my gun right here and get it nice and tight. And you'll have the same thing on the other side, and now we can move on to the rear.All right. Now that we've got the front done, we can move on to the rear. The first thing I'm gonna do is pull out this part of the inner fender liner, because we're gonna need to get access to the top mount for the shock here. So, I'm gonna start by pulling off these 8-millimeter bolts. I've just got my ratchet here. Just gonna take them right out. All right. Once you've got that out, and you take this away, we've got access to our shock. All right. Now that we've got that fender liner out of the way, the next thing we're gonna do is undo our rear sway bar end link. We're gonna do this on both sides, of course. And as you may have noticed, the truck is a little bit further up in the air. I've got the axle supported with some pole jacks here, because, again, we are working on a lift, so I wanna make sure this is secure. So, if you're doing this in your driveway, make sure you take a few minutes before you get to this process, to get the axle secured. So, I'm just gonna take my impact gun, this is a 16-millimeter socket, and I'm just gonna undo this guy right up here, pull that bolt out, and then we can swing this out of the way, and that'll give us some space to move the axle around on the back here.Next, we're gonna loosen our lower shock mounting bolt. So, this is a 21 head and a 21-millimeter nut on the back, too. So, I'm just gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench on the front here. And I got my impact gun on the back, and we'll just back this out. I'm gonna wanna retain this, because we are gonna reuse it later. And I'm using my pole jack here, just taking a little bit of pressure off the shock, to get that bolt out. Now that we have that inner fender liner off, the next thing I'm gonna do is loosen the top bolt for our sway bar end link here, because we're gonna need some extra room. You'll also notice that our truck is up on pole jacks here. Because we are working on a lift, we wanna make sure that that axle is supported. So, if you're working at home in your driveway, make sure you've got some ways to support this.Now, it is also worth noting, too, that since this is a live axle back here, despite it being coil springs, everything you do to one side, you're gonna need to do to the other side at basically the same time. So I'm gonna go ahead and loosen this bolt here, and then I'm gonna go over and do the same thing on the other side, and each time, jump back and forth with each step of the process. So, here, we'll take our impact gun with a 16-millimeter socket, just back this bolt out. We can drop that link right out of the way there, and we'll hang onto this because, again, we're gonna need this later.All right. We have one last thing to do before we lower our axle down and take the spring out, and that is to undo this bolt here for the bracket for our brake line. We just wanna have a little bit of extra slack. So, this is a 13-millimeter. Gonna take my ratchet. Pull that out. I'm just gonna unhook that from here. Again, that gives us a little bit more slack on these lines. I'll just put that right back in, so I don't lose it. Again, you're gonna wanna do this on both sides. So, once you've got the other side done, we're ready to lower the axle.Now that we've got everything loosened up, it's time to lower down our axle. Now, I have two pole jacks here, one on either side of the axle, and I'm gonna try and lower them at the same time. So, I'm gonna be using both hands on these, just lowering them down a little bit at a time, because we're gonna wanna get our springs out. Now, I do have a third pole jack here at the nose of the differential. Just in case this starts to move a little bit, I wanna have a little bit of extra support. So, if you're doing this at home in your driveway, make sure you've got plenty of stuff to support this. So, with that, I'm gonna go ahead and start lowering these down. Just take your time when you do this. Now, if you find yourself needing a little bit of extra give on the axle to get your springs out, you can do a couple of things. First is undo your rear track bar here. So, I'm just gonna take my 21-millimeter socket, and I'm just gonna loosen this guy up. We'll pop that right out. Hold on to this, because obviously, we're gonna reuse this later.Next thing we can do is loosen the bolts on our upper and lower control arms on either side of the axle. Just loosening them, not taking them completely out. We just want this to have a little bit more flexibility so we can get those springs out. So, I'm gonna go back over to the passenger side, and we'll loosen those guys out. Next, we're gonna go over and loosen our bolts on our upper and lower control arms. So, there are four of them, one, two, three, four. Again, we're just gonna loosen these. We're not gonna take them all the way off. So, I'm gonna take my 21-millimeter wrench, put it on the head of the bolt here, my 24-millimeter socket on my impact gun, and I'm gonna loosen this guy up. Again, just getting it loose, not all the way off. We'll do the same thing up here. So, again, clearance is a little bit tight here, because we got our muffler in the way. So, what I'm gonna do, instead of the 21-millimeter wrench and the socket on the back, is I'm gonna swap, do my 21-millimeter socket on the head of the bolt here, and I've got a wrench on the back, and I'm just gonna loosen this guy up.All right. We can go do the same thing up here. All right. So, we're gonna do the same thing over here. Again, got my impact gun on the outside. Just gonna put my wrench on here because I already had them handy. I'm just gonna loosen that up. All right. Now that we've got everything loosened up, we should have enough give on the axle to pull our springs out. So, I'm gonna go ahead and lower my pole jacks here. I'm gonna do them at about the same time, to keep everything nice and even. I've also got a third one here, to prop up the nose of the differential, should this start to shift forward. It shouldn't, but just in case, I like to have myself covered. All right. As we're lowering this, our springs should be coming loose from their perches up top, and it looks like they're doing just that right now. Can hear them moving. All right. That one's loose, and this one is too. We're gonna go a little bit further down, and we should be able to get these guys out. Not much of an issue. We can just slide these guys out here. And we'll do the same thing on the other side.Now that we have our springs out of the truck, we're going to take our original spring perches. So, when they come out of the truck, these two little nubs here are facing towards the back, and so is this stop for the spring. So, if you're looking at the truck from the front, it's gonna go just like this. So, one thing you're gonna have to do here is snip these guys off, again, remembering the orientation here. Now, we're not gonna do that, because we're not gonna modify our truck in any way, but we are just going to go ahead and put this on. So, this is our spacer here, and this is just gonna sit right on top of our original spring perch. And you're probably gonna have to work this on a little bit. Just kind of work it on nice and evenly. Everything seats down, nice and even. Now, again, if you don't trim those nubs off, you'll see there's gonna be a little bit here, but we're gonna find a workaround for that. At home, you should maybe just snip those off. So, now that we've got this together, we're gonna take our backing plate here, plus the provided bolt with the lock washer and regular washer, and this is how we're gonna get this back into the truck. Then we can put our springs back in, put our shocks in, and finish the assembly process.All right. Now that we've got our spring perch assembled, we're gonna go ahead and get it into the truck. So, the first step is to put this backing plate up here. So, this is just gonna slide over top of the mount, just like that. Try and get that as centered as you can. It should just kind of drop into the divot up there. Once you get that mount in place, we're gonna take our spring perch. We're gonna try and keep this aligned while we tighten it up, but we're also gonna have our bolt here with the lock washer and the regular washer. I'm gonna feed that through in the center, and then I'm just gonna get this roughly into position. Just try and get it started by hand.All right. And then we can spin this guy into its position. And I'll take my 14-millimeter socket on my ratchet here, and tighten it down. Make sure I'm going the right way first. Just get that nice and tight. Once we're in there, we can feel the bolt coming through the top of that socket there. Our spring perch is about where it needs to be. So we're good. We can go ahead and put the spring back on. But before we do that, we're gonna make sure we repeat this same process on the other side of the truck.All right. Now we can put our spring in. So, we're gonna take our spring, just feed it up, make sure the end of it here aligns with that stop on the spring perch itself. Looks like we got that right on. And we'll just slide this over the bottom here, again, making sure that everything is nice and lined up. Cool. Once we're in there, we can do the same thing on the other side, and then we can go ahead and lift our axle back up, and start buttoning things up.Now that we have both of our springs in place, it's time to raise the axle back up a little bit. So, just like we did when we lowered it, we're gonna just crank on our pole jacks here. If you don't really have the wingspan like I don't, you can just do kind of one at a time a turn or two, just to get those springs nice and compressed, to make sure they're in where they're supposed to be. And once we're in, the next thing we're gonna do is our track bar. Now we'll go ahead and do up the bolt for our track bar, since we've got this right here. So, again, reusing that same bolt, I'm just gonna drop this into place here, and you may have to adjust your pole jacks a little bit to get this aligned properly. And that should be good right there. Slide our bolt through, using that captive nut with the tab on it. And once that's in place and centered, we're gonna go ahead and take our impact gun, with the 21-millimeter on it, and just tighten this down.All right. Now that that is done, we're gonna go back and tighten up those bolts on the lower and upper control arms, since we loosened them earlier. So, we'll get those done, then we can get ready to put our shocks on. All right. Now we're gonna tighten up the bolts on our upper and lower control arms here. So, just like we did before, I'm gonna use my 21-millimeter socket since it's already on the gun. I'll take my wrench back here, get it tightened onto that nut, and just tighten it down. And then we'll do the same thing for the others. All right. Once you've got these done on this side, go ahead and do the same thing on the other side of the truck.All right. We are almost ready now to put our new shock absorbers on, but we gotta do a couple of things first. So, in the kit, you get these two little metal, almost washer-type things. One of them has a larger hole in it than the other one. That one is gonna slide onto the shaft of the shock absorber. You're gonna take one of the two rubber bushings. They're both the same, so it doesn't matter which one. Slide that on as well, with this rounded edge facing down, so you've got this little lip right here facing up. This is how we're gonna put it into the truck. And then on the other side of it, we've got another bushing. It's gonna sit just like this. And this other metal piece, that's gonna sit on top of it like that. And then our new nut, that goes on the top. Now, this is a 19-millimeter, so I had to get a different wrench. So, I'm gonna set these guys aside for the moment. Once we've got that set up, we'll go ahead and slide this into the original top mounting location, just like that. Then we'll take our second bushing, again, this edge facing down, the rounded edge facing up. Gonna slide that in, and you'll kind of feel that center itself in the mounting position. And then we'll take this other metal washer, slide that right over top, then we can put our new nut on.Once we've got that in, we can go ahead and start tightening it. Again, that nut is a 19-millimeter, so I'm gonna take my 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench, making sure that I'm going the right way with it, making sure that I'm going the right way with it, start to tighten it down. Now, you're gonna wanna hold the shaft of the shock absorber here, because it may spin at first, since this is a nyloc washer. Now, if the shaft of that shock starts to spin on you, you can take an adjustable wrench like I have here and just hold on the top. There is a spot for you to do that. We'll just go ahead and tighten this down. In fact, you can even use that, if you've got the right size wrench on there, brace it against the frame, and you don't even have to hold it.Next, we're gonna put in our lower shock bolts. So, what I'm gonna do here is, using my pole jack, I'm just gonna slowly lift up the rear axle, so we can get that hole aligned with the bracket here. And I'll take my bolt, slide it right on through, just like that. Nut on the back. Get that started. And then we'll go ahead and tighten it down. Again, just like before, using the 21-millimeter wrench on the outside and the 21-millimeter socket on our impact gun back here. All right. Now that we've got that nice and tight, we'll go ahead and do up our sway bar end link.All right. Now we're gonna go ahead and reattach our sway bar end link, so I'm just gonna slide that guy right back up. As you can see, it's a little bit off, because, again, we have lifted the suspension and changed things around. So, using my pole jack here, I'm just gonna crank this up slowly until it's just about in position. Right about there should do it. Just get our bolt started. Go ahead and tighten this down. Then we'll go ahead and do the same thing on the other side, too, and we'll come back and get our brake line brackets back on.Next, we're going to put our brake line bracket back into place. So, I'm gonna take that bolt out, slide that back into...there it goes. Get our bolt started, making sure we don't pinch that ABS line right there, our speed sensor line, whatever it happens to be. And tighten that down. Double-check that we've got everything completed, and then we can remove our pole jacks, and the install is complete.Last step here is to reinstall our inner fender liners. So, we're just gonna slide this back in, and using the bolts that we took out earlier, start to get things lined up here. And taking our ratchet with the 8-millimeter socket, we'll just go ahead and tighten these down. All right. Once we've got that done, we'll do the same thing on the other side. We can put the wheels back on, lower the truck down, and we're all done.That's gonna wrap it up here for our review and install of the Rough Country 3.5-inch Bolt-on Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted N3 Struts and Premium N3 Shocks, fitting 2019 and newer 4-wheel drive RAM 1500s without air ride, excluding the TRX. Thanks so much for watching. And remember, for all things RAM, be sure to keep it right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Corrects Factory Rake for a Level Stance
      • Front Lift: 3.5-inches; Rear Lift: 2-inches
      • Increases Ground Clearance
      • Forged Aluminum Upper Control Arms with POM Ball Joints
      • N3 Series Lifted Struts and Shock Absorbers
      • Fabricated Steel Lift Blocks
      • Accommodates 33-inch Tires
      • Fits 2019-2023 4WD RAM 1500 without Air Ride, Excluding TRX

      Description

      Go Off-Road. Off-roading can be tough for your RAM’s stock suspension, that's why you need a lift kit that was specifically designed to take on the great outdoors. Luckily, this Rough Country 3.50-Inch Suspension Lift Kit has what you need to help you take on the obstacles found on and off-road. With 3.5 inches of lift, this kit can accommodate tires up to 33x12.50 R20 in size. This Rough Country Kit features forged aluminum control arms as well as fabricated steel lift blocks for extra strength. What’s more, the included Premium N3 Lifted Struts and Shock absorbers will provide a highly comfortable ride, even when tested across rough terrain.

      Premium N3 Struts and Shocks. The included 10-stage variable valving, Premium N3 Strut and Shock Absorbers are built with a 54 mm body and a high-pressure nitrogen charge to ensure efficient heat dissipation that keeps the shock cooler while reducing fade during aggressive off-road use. Moreover, it is furnished with a durable, 18 mm spring-loaded piston rod and reinforced seals for a long lifespan of smooth performance.

      Forged Aluminum Control Arms. Rough Country includes a set replacement upper control arms in their 3.5-inch Suspension Lift Kit. These control arms are forged from aluminum for light weight and superior strength. A new set of low friction, maintenance free POM ball joints are included for greater range of motion.

      Fabricated Lift Blocks. The Rear Lift Blocks included in this Rough Country Kit have been fabricated from high grade steel for superior strength and extra rigidity. The components are then completed in a durable black powder coat finish for long lasting corrosion resistance, regardless of the elements they are exposed to.

      Installation. The Rough Country 3.5 inch Suspension Lift Kit with Upper Control Arms should be installed by a professional to reduce the risk of injury. However, the kit only takes 5-6 hours to install, so you'll be back on the road in no time. Vehicle will require alignment after installation.

      Application. This Rough Country 3.50-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Upper Control Arms, Lifted Struts and Premium N3 Shocks is designed to fit 2019-2023 4WD RAM 1500 models without Air Ride. Does not fit TRX models.

      Fitment:

      Details

      Rough Country 31431

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • Upper Control Arms with Ball Joints
      • Fabricated Lift Blocks
      • U-Bolts
      • (2) N3 Series Lifted Struts
      • (2) N3 Series Rear Shocks
      • Installation Hardware
      4.8

      Customer Reviews (341)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Ram 1500

        • 3.0L V6 EcoDiesel - 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 3.6L V6 - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
        • 5.7L V8 - 19, 20, 21, 22, 23