(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Justin: The Rough Country 2-inch Lift Kit will be a great option for the 2009 to 2013 F-150 owners who are looking to comfortably fit a set of 33s or even a 35 by 12 and a half according to Rough Country when using a factory offset. Now, unlike other smaller lifts or levels, Rough Country is going to achieve that extra front end height through a lifted N20 strut and not with the spacer while the rear itself will receive a new nitrogen shock along with a small 1-inch block altogether raising the truck a total of 2 inches on all four corners. Now, price point for the Rough Country kit here will hover in that mid $300 range while the install will get a strong two out of wrenches according to the site, take you at least three hours or so to get everything knocked out. And, in fact, we'll show you how to do so at the very end of this video.So most of you guys probably know Rough Country is gonna be one of your more budget-friendly and lift or level options here on the site and their 2-inch lifts that we're talking about in this video is gonna be one of the most affordable solutions to fit a 33-inch tire or even a 35-inch tire while still maintaining a factory-like ride quality. But what do you say we break down the fitment a little bit more, guys, and honestly, even though Rough Country does state that you can fit a 35 by 12 and a half inch tire with this system in place, you have to keep in mind it's only going to be achieved by using a factory offset of around +44 or +48 in addition to factory backspacing. Anything beyond that as far as offset is concerned and you're bound to experience some rubbing with the 35s as we experienced on our shop truck here at AT.So we know those 35s are gonna be an extremely tight fit on anything other than a factory wheel. However, if you wanna comfortably fit a set of 33-inch tires with a more aggressive offset, the Rough Country 2-inch lift will certainly be the ticket as we did experience during our testing. Plenty of room for articulation with no real rubbing under full lock side to side. So, therefore, a 33 would certainly be my recommendation for owners out there who wanna take advantage of the full articulation of your truck, do some occasional wheeling, and you don't wanna hack up your fender wells to fit a 35 on a more aggressive offset while still maintaining, by the way, very decent CV angles here at the same time.But tire fitment aside, the Rough Country kit here will be a nice alternative for truck owners out there who aren't big fans of going with that strut spacer design for whatever reason. Instead, you are gonna get that 2 inches of additional lift through what is called a lifted strut design. And what that means is, guys, Rough Country has altered where the spring collar is gonna sit on the strut body, so therefore, you're still gonna utilize your factory springs in your factory mounting locations but you are getting some more height, thanks again to that new strut design. Now, the benefit is twofold. You're getting an improved ride quality and off-road control thanks to the nitrogen-filled N20 shocks from Rough Country and you're doing so without limiting your travel or droop which can and will happen with a traditional strut spacer design. Basically, if you don't have the 1,000 to 2,000 bucks to spend on a set of coil overs but you do a lot of off-roading, this would be my preferred recommendation over a strut spacer design for that 1 to 2-inch lift up front.Now, the rear setup is similar to what we've seen with other Rough Country kits in the category and that is the combination of their matching N20 rear shock along with the 1-inch block in brand new bolts for the rear that you can use at your discretion. Now, I say that because some guys actually might wanna skip the block to achieve a more leveled appearance, whereas on the other hand, if you do a lot of heavy towing or hauling in the bed, you might wanna add the block just to not over-exaggerate, if you will, the squat when towing, but again, guys, that is totally your call.Now, construction-wise, the kit is pretty stout overall. Dampers themselves, again, do feature that nitrogen-charged design which will offer a little bit more control and performance off-road while the chrome harden 9/16-inch piston and 1 and 3/8-inch bore are certainly designed to handle some serious abuse. In fact, Rough Country even throws in a limited lifetime warranty with their products here against any defects over time. But now that you know a little bit more about the Rough Country lift kit here, guys, let's show you how to get this thing in place and to do so, here is my man Tony with a detailed walkthrough along with a tool breakdown.Tony: Tools used for this installation are as follows, a set of sockets arranging from 8-millimeter all the way up to 30 millimeters. Any sort of ratchet, electric, or standard, that option is up to you. A good set of wrenches, a pry bar. We also use a impact gun. Once again, you can just use a ratchet if that's all you have, a good hammer, and a couple bungee cords.Now, let's get started with the installation of our new lift kit on the front of our F-150 and to begin, well, we're gonna take our front suspension apart. Now, to do that, we're gonna begin by disconnecting the brackets that hold the lines to the side of the frame. After that, we'll move to the front of our steering knuckle. We'll disconnect our tie rod end link. This'll give us a little bit more flexibility and the room to get our strut out. We'll also disconnect our upper ball joint, that way we can tilt this all out of the way, get a little bit of pressure off our strut. We'll disconnect our lower strut then we'll move to the top, remove the three bolts, get that out, then we're gonna have to disassemble our struts. We're gonna have to take the spring and the top hat off of that and transfer all that over to our new strut that comes in the kit. Once we get all that back together, we just reassemble it in the reverse order that we took it apart. Now let's go ahead and get started.All right. Now with a 10-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the retaining bolt that holds this bracket to our frame. Then we'll come down here with the 10-millimeter. That one out of the way. And with the 8-millimeter we'll get this last one. With a 21-millimeter socket, we're gonna go ahead and disconnect our tie rod end link. Now, with a good hammer and a good whack right here on this, making sure you do not hit the threads, it should pop your tie rod end link right out of place. And just tilt that off to the side. Now we have plenty of access in here. We're gonna go ahead and get our upper ball joint taken care of.Now with a 21-millimeter socket, we're gonna go ahead and disconnect our upper ball joint. Keep a good grip on your steering knuckle. Now, as you can see here, our upper ball joint is all disconnected. Now, I know you didn't get to see it fully come apart and I apologize about that. Usually, once you get the nut all the way off, you have to use a hammer and hit the side of your steering knuckle right where the ball joint seats into it just to shock it loose. Well, for us, it actually just popped all apart as we back the nut off. And we didn't get to show you that because it all just kinda fell apart on us. But this should sit altogether like this. Then you hit it with a hammer and it should just pop right out. Now we're ready to go ahead and get our strut out of our truck.Now, with a 30-mil on the nut side and a 1 and 1/16th on your bolt side, we're gonna go ahead and get our lower strut mount disconnected. Now upon further inspection, we realize that we do have to disconnect our sway bar end link just to get that little bit of extra flex in our lower control arm to make sure that we can pop our strut out of place. Now, this isn't really that difficult. We're gonna use an 8-millimeter socket on the top of the stud and we're gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench on the nut. Just put a wrench on there, our 8-millimeter socket on top, and we'll just go ahead and slowly spin that down and out. That should be more than enough room to go ahead and get our struct out of there now.All right. Now with the use of a 15-millimeter socket, and yes, I am using an electronic ratchet, this isn't necessary, you can do it with a regular handheld ratchet if that's all that you happen to have on hand, we're gonna remove the three bolts that connect the top of our strut to our strut tower here. Now there's gonna be one here, right in the front, one off to the side, and then one in the very back. Luckily, Ford gave us enough room right up in here to get our tools in there. Let's start with the back one first. And when getting the last one out, make sure you get a good grip on your strut. All right. Now we can take this over to our spring compressor and swap the spring over to our new strut.All right. Now we're over here at our spring compressor and if you've ever watched one of my videos before and I'm taking apart a strut, you know what I'm about to say. This is dangerous. This is a truck spring. It's got a lot more weight behind it and tension built up in it than any regular car spring on a strut, so this just makes it that much more dangerous. If you have a compressor like this that is wall-mounted, yes, it is a lot safer than using the two little compressors that go on the side. I highly recommend if you can get your hands on using one of these, that's what you use. You can use the other ones, but for something this strong, I would prefer use something a little bit more sturdy, a little bit safer. If need be, take them down the street to your local mechanic shop, have them switch your springs and top hats to your new struts before putting them into your truck. Now we're gonna use a 17-millimeter socket on our impact gun to take the center bolt off to get our factory strut out.All right. As you can see, our stock strut and our new Rough Country strut, you can see where we get our lift right here in our spring perch. This one is slightly higher. That's where we're gonna get all our lift action from, but first, we're gonna have to go ahead and transfer over our bump stop to our new strut. Now we can go ahead and slide this right back up inside of our spring and tighten it down into place. Now you can go ahead and tighten everything down together and for our new hardware, it's gonna be an 18-millimeter instead of the 17 we used to take apart our factory strut All right. Now that we're all done with this, on our spring compressor, we can go ahead and get this back in our vehicle and get the front of our lift complete. All right. Now we just slide our strut back up into place.All right. Now we're ready to reassemble. We have our strut up into place. I have the three nuts on top holding that in place and I went ahead and I slid in our bottom bolt. Now, might be a little tight to get the straw in there, in which case you'll have to pop the axle out a little bit. It really doesn't take much. You can actually just get a good grip on the axle itself where it goes in, not the mid-shaft. You wanna grab the housing up here. Just give it a few good tugs. It should pop out of place. But don't yank it all the way out. Just need enough room to swing your swing arm down. Now, that's not to say that you will always need to do it this way. Sometimes you may not need to. I went ahead and I did it so you can see my axle's a little slightly disconnected, but I got it all back in. Now, to reassemble, it all goes back together the same exact way you took it apart. Our strut's in and we have to go ahead and get our ball joint back in, tie rod end link. Just tie everything back up, make sure everything is torqued down properly and you can move over to the other side or get your rear done.All right. Now, once your upper ball joint is reconnected and tight, now let's go ahead and get our outer tie rod end back in. Now, once you're all together and back on the road, 'bout 100 miles or so, you wanna go back over everything and tightened down. You're also gonna wanna make sure you get an alignment as soon as possible. Now we can go ahead and hook our sway bar end link back up. Now, I must tell you, this will be a lot easier to get your sway bar end link back in once both sides are done or else you're gonna be fighting your sway bar. Now we can go ahead and start getting some of our brackets back in place. Now, with everything installed, go back over it, make sure everything is tightened down properly. Now, everything we did on this side, just transfer over to the other side. It's gonna be all the exact same steps and it's gonna come apart exactly the same. Once you've done that, let's move along to the rear.All right. Now, here in the rear of our vehicle, we're gonna go ahead and get our rear lift blocks in. Now, to do that, first, we got to go ahead and remove our factory shocks. Well, we're gonna replace them with new shocks anyway, so let's just get them out, out of the way off to the side. After that, we have our rear supported on a couple of pole jacks. Now, if you're doing this down on the ground at home, make sure you have a couple jack stands under your frame and you have your floor jack underneath of your rear. You don't want your jack stands sitting on your rear because then it makes it a little difficult to lift the truck up off of the axles instead of removing the axle down off the leaf springs. We're gonna remove the four nuts on each side that retain our U-bolts in place. Slide our U-bolts out, we're gonna keep our bottom cap here on our rear. We're gonna reuse that then we're gonna sandwich our new blocks in between the leaf spring and our factory blocks. After that, we'll replace our new U bolts, tighten them up evenly, and when tightening up U-bolts, you always wanna make sure that your threads are even on all four corners. You don't want them all cattywampus. What can happen there is gonna actually throw your rear kind of sideways and your truck will do what they call dog tracking. Let's go ahead and get this torn part so we can get our new parts in.All right. Now, with a 15-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench, we're gonna go ahead and remove the upper and lower shock mounts. Now, the 18-millimeter wrench, that's gonna go on the nut side and 15 socket's gonna go on the bolt side. Now with our rear well supported on our pole jacks, we're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket and go ahead and get our U-bolts out. Now, you wanna carefully lower down your rear with just enough space to go ahead and get those two blocks in place. Now we're gonna go ahead and lower the whole rear down. You wanna do this carefully and if you're using multiple pole jacks like we are, take your time, little bit on each side at the time you want this to come down nice and even. That should be more than enough space. All right. Now we're ready to get our U-bolts in place. You can see we've got our rear lifted back up into place. Go ahead and slide our new U-bolts down. Then we're gonna take our lower pad, slide that up over our new U-bolts, secure it all with our new washers and locknuts. Now, when you go to tighten these up, you're gonna use a 22-millimeter wrench and like I said before, make sure you keep them nice and even.All right. Now we're ready to get our new shocks into place and they mount the same way that the original ones mount with the upper and lower hardware that came factory on your truck. Just go ahead and slide that up into place. And just repeat that on both sides. All right. Now with all our components installed, we can go ahead and make sure that everything is tightened back down. And just like on the front, after that 100 miles or so, go ahead, go back over everything and make sure it's nice and tight.All right. Now that we're all tied up, stand back and have a look. It's gonna look great sitting on your new wheels and tires, or maybe you just have your factory wheels with larger tires. Just make sure you get your alignment done. Go back over it and check all your torques later on down the line. I'm Tony. This is AmericanTrucks. Give us a visit at americantrucks.com for more parts and videos like these.
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Fitment: 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
Rough Country 50004
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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