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Rough Country 2-Inch Leveling Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks (09-20 F-150, Excluding Raptor)

Item T540321
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$149.95 (kit)

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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey guys, it's Sara with americantrucks.com. And today, we have a review and install of the Rough Country 2-Inch Leveling Kit with Premium N3 Shocks, fitting your '09 to '20 F150s excluding the Raptor. This kit is perfect for the F150 owner who wants a leveling solution for their truck but still plans to tow so they don't want to remove all of their factory rake. This kit provides more room in the front wheel wells for larger wheels and tires and also includes these rear lift blocks to give you some rear lift as well. This kit lifts the front of your truck 2 inches, thanks to these composite strut spacers, and lifts the rear of your truck as well, thanks to these rear lift blocks, giving you more room for wheels and tires and evening out that factory rake.Depending on your year and model, stock tire sizes may vary. On our truck, we have a 31-inch tire stock, which is what you will see in this video. And with this kit installed, you can fit up to a 33-inch tire comfortably. This kit includes premium N3 shocks that mimic the factory ride quality. It also includes rear lift blocks and longer U-bolts to accommodate those blocks, as well as composite front strut spacers and all the hardware needed for install.Now, I did wanna point out that these front strut spacers measuring out about an inch and a half. And you will get that extra 1/2-inch of lift totaling the 2 inches thanks to the change in suspension geometry achieved by installing this kit. So, as far as price goes, this kit comes in at around $150, putting it on the lower end price-wise when compared to other options. And for your money, you're getting a lift in both the front and the rear, as well as these premium shocks so you get that leveled look that you're going for while upgrading some of your components as well.And as far as the install goes, I'm giving this one a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does feature a direct bolt-up install with no modification required, but you will want a professional alignment afterwards. All in all, it can be done within three hours. So, with that said, let's check out the install. For this install, we use an impact gun but a regular hand ratchet will work just fine. You'll also need a hammer and you may want a rubber mallet. You'll need a vacuum pump, a caliper hanger or a similar tool, a small flat-head screwdriver, 17-millimeter, 15-millimeter, and 18-millimeter wrenches, 22-millimeter, 21-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 17-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 10-millimeter, and 8-millimeter sockets, a 5-millimeter Allen key or Allen socket. You may want a swivel extension and you'll need a pry bar.So, the first step in our uninstall is to get your truck in the air either on the lift or on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Once you've done that, we're gonna grab an 8-millimeter and 10-millimeter sockets, and go ahead and remove two bolts on the inside of the knuckle. So, you'll see two bolts on the side of the knuckle holding on an ABS and a brake line. What we're gonna do is remove these two bolts. Just to give these guys a little more slack, let me go ahead and disconnect everything. Grab an 8-millimeter socket and remove the smaller bolt. And then this larger one holding on the brake line bracket is a 10-millimeter. And remove it out of that pocket as well.Next up, what we're gonna do is remove this brake caliper so that we can remove our rotor. Go ahead and grab a 21-millimeter socket and get the two bolts holding the calipers in the knuckle removed. So, now that we have the bolts out of the caliper and brackets, what we're gonna do is use a pry bar or you can go by hand and just wiggle this caliper off. If you're using the pry bar, just go between the bracket and the rotor. Just go ahead and pry backwards.And once it is removed, grab a caliper hanger or a similar tool and hang it out of the way so there's not too much attention on the brake line. Now we can remove the rotor as well. If it's loose like ours, you can just go ahead and pull it off. If it's not loose, what you can do is you can tap with a rubber mallet just around the backside of here just to loosen it up. I would use a rubber mallet and not a hammer because you don't wanna damage this because it will be going back on.Now we can see the dust shield, what we need to do is take the three 8-millimeter bolts and remove them. Grab that 8-millimeter socket and get your bolts out. And remove it. Now that the dust shield is out of the way, you can see this sensor that's right in the top of your knuckle. What you're gonna do is grab a 5-millimeter Allen key or Allen socket, go ahead and remove this. Wiggle out the sensor and set it aside so it doesn't get damaged when you remove the knuckle.Next up, we're gonna remove the nut on the bottom of the outer tie rod. Grab a 21-millimeter socket and go ahead and get this removed. Now, what you can do is wiggle and remove this. If it does not wanna come out, you can tap on the side of the knuckle to release that ball joint. Now, we are gonna remove the axle out of the knuckles so we do need to remove this dust shield. Let's go ahead and get behind it with a flat-head in a circular motion and pry it out.Now, we're moving on to the back of the knuckle and we're gonna remove this vacuum line, just pull to remove it. And now with a vacuum pump, slide the hose over the larger port, and then we're gonna pull vacuum so we can remove the knuckle. Now, what we're gonna do is pull vacuum on that line that we just installed at the back of the knuckle. This is important because you need to pull vacuum on this in order to not damage the four-wheel-drive actuator when you remove this knuckle.Now you can get this strat out without removing the knuckle, but I think it is a lot easier to do so. So we're going to continue with removing it. Go ahead and pull about 20 PSI on the vacuum pump. That should be enough to release that actuator so we can remove it. Once you've done that, make sure you keep the pressure and set this to the side. Next up, we're gonna grab a 13-millimeter socket and remove the nut that holds on the axle. Next up, we're gonna remove the nut on the bottom of our upper ball joint and release it from the knuckle. Grab an 18-millimeter socket and you may need a swivel extension. Go ahead, get this removed.And what I am gonna do is thread this back on a bit because we will have to strike this top of the knuckle in order to release it fully. Now, in order to release this upper ball joint, what we're gonna do is strike the knuckle on the side here, and we do have the nut on the bottom to catch it and you should see it release. Go ahead and grab your hammer and strike the knuckle.Now what we're gonna do is use a pry bar to pry down on the upper control arm to remove the nut, and then we can release the upper control arm from the knuckle. And finally, we're gonna remove the nut on the lower control arm so that we can release it from the lower ball joint. Grab a 21-millimeter socket and go ahead and remove this nut. Now, same thing as the other ball joint, we're gonna thread back on a little bit. And as you can see, it actually released right now. So, do make sure you have a hand on there.But if it doesn't release, you can do the same thing as the upper ball joint. You can tap the back of this to release it. And now that both ball joints are released, go ahead and wiggle the knuckle and pull it down and out to remove it off the truck. Now that we have the knuckle off, I can show you what I'm talking about. There's a ring in there with teeth on it. That is the actuator that engages the four-wheel drive. You can see it move up when we pull pressure, and once we release the pressure, you'll see the gear go back down. And next up, we're gonna disconnect the sway bar end link by removing the nut on the bottom side of it. We're on the bottom of the control arm now. So grab an 18-millimeter socket and go ahead and remove this nut.Next up we have two 18-millimeter nuts right next to that. These hold on the bottom of the strut. So, go ahead and remove both of those as well. Next up, we're gonna disconnect the top of the strut from the strut tower here, it's three 15-millimeter bolts. So, grab a 15-millimeter socket or you may want a ratcheting wrench, just because there's not a ton of space up top, go ahead and get these removed. We're gonna leave one of the front nuts on just loosely to hold it in place while we remove the one all the way at the rear which is a little bit harder to get to.So, we have the two nuts removed up top, we still have one loosely installed in this corner here. And what we're gonna do is while that nut holds it in place, we're gonna put a pry bar underneath the strut, pry down, and remove it out of the lower control arm. And now that it is released from the lower control arm, we can lift up, remove that final nut up top, and remove the strut assembly. Now, we have the spacer that we're gonna add to the top of your strut. Now, keep in mind this configuration is slightly different for each year. And because we are working on a 2018, we have it in this configuration.Now if you have a different year, if you have older than 2014, consult the directions. Rough Country has laid it out pretty nicely, but you'll see the spacer in this position. You'll notice the Rough Country logo and A out right underneath it, so you'll see it in the same layout. And I've really marked each hole that we need to have bolt in for my purposes. But what you'll do is take the bolt and slide it through and lock it in place in each of these spots. Now if you do have a different year, it will be slightly different but it will be the same process.Now we can get the spacer installed over the top of the studs on our strut. Now, keep in mind they will only go on one way, so if they're not lining up, go ahead and turn the spacer until they do. Now we're going to install a washer over each of the studs, as well as a nylon lock nut. Now, you can take a 17-millimeter socket and tighten it down. Now, if you are gonna use an impact gun like we are, just make sure that you don't over-tighten because this spacer is a composite. Now that you have this spacer installed, you can install the strut.Now, it might be slightly easier to get the bottom lined up first. And then you may want a friend to help you pry down as you line up the top. Now, with the help of a friend pry down on the lower control arm and you may need to pry up slightly on the upper control arm, go ahead and line the strut up with the strut tower. And you may need to wiggle it in place. Now that you have the strut in place, go ahead and install the hardware over top of each of the studs up top. We're using a washer, lock washer, and a nut.And these are just the plain nuts, these are not the nylock. Repeat that for the rest of your studs. And it might be a little bit hard to see this back one but same process, get your lock washer and washer in place and then thread your nut over the top. Then grab your 17-millimeter socket or we're using a ratcheting wrench, go ahead and tighten them down. And make sure you replace the factory nuts on the bottom of your studs. Then with an 18-millimeter socket, tighten it down. And you can also replace the nut on the sway bar end link from under here.Now, if you are doing both sides simultaneously, you can replace it. But if you're doing one side then the other, you may wanna leave this disconnected until last. Go ahead and pry down on your sway bar to slide it all the way through your lower control arm and thread your nut in place. Then with your 18-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now we have our knuckle here, we still have vacuum being pulled on the four-wheel drive, and we're gonna line it up over top of the bottom lower ball joints, as well as the axle. You kind of have to do this simultaneously.So, it may take some wiggling, but go ahead and thread the nut on the lower ball joint and then continue to line up your axle through the front of your knuckle. Keep wiggling until your axle is fully seated in the knuckle. And now with your 21-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten down at that lower ball joint. Now we can put our nut back on the axle, make sure it's fully seated through the knuckle so you can see a bit of the shoulder behind it, then go ahead and thread on your 13-millimeter factory nut. Grab your 13-millimeter socket and tighten it down.Now we have our truck lower to the ground and we have a floor jack underneath it. And what I'm gonna do here is jack it up a little bit to close the distance between our knuckle and upper control arm so that we can get it seated and reinstalled. Now that the upper control arm and the knuckle are closer together, we can pry down on the upper control arm, fully seat it in the top of the knuckle, and thread the nut in place. And with our 18-millimeter socket and swivel extension, go ahead and tighten it down.Now what we're gonna do is remove the vacuum line, first release a vacuum before we do that, and replace your factory vacuum line. Keep in mind there is a smaller and larger post, make sure it is lined up properly and fully seated on the knuckle. Now we can replace the sensor in the top of your knuckle. Go ahead and thread the factory bolt back in. And with your 5-millimeter Allen key or Allen socket, tighten it down. Now we can replace the dust shield, line it up over top of that sensor, be careful not to pinch it. Line up all the threaded holes and thread the factory bolts back in. Now with your 8-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten it down.Now you can replace the cap over top of the axle. Line it up and you can press it into place, or lightly tap it in with a rubber mallet. Now you can grab the rotor and slide it back over top of each of the studs. Now, what I like to do before we get the caliper and bracket in place is thread a nut on here to make sure it doesn't move while we install the caliper and bracket. Grab the caliper and line it up over top of your rotor. Wiggle it in place and line it up with the bolts in the back. Grab your factory bolts, line them up through the knuckle, and thread them into the caliper bracket.Once you have them threaded in, grab your 21-millimeter socket and tighten it down. And it may be a little bit more difficult to get a socket on there, so you can use a 21-millimeter swivel socket. Now, grab the outer tie rod and line it up with the knuckle. Go ahead and thread your nut on the bottom. And with your 21-millimeter socket, tightening down. Now you can replace the sensor, as well as the brake line bracket. Go ahead and line it up with their respective bolts, go ahead and thread it in place. And with your 10-millimeter socket, tighten down the brake line bracket bolt.Now, replace the sensor line, line it up, and thread in the smaller 8-millimeter bolt. And with your 8-millimeter socket, tighten that down as well. All right. Now the front passenger side is complete, make sure you repeat all of those steps to install the driver side. Once you've done that, we're gonna move on to the rear. We're gonna start with removing the shock and replacing it with the new one, so grab a 15-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench, and let's get this removed. Using the 15-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench, go ahead and remove this bolt.We're gonna leave this loose for now and remove the bottom one. Repeat that with the bolt at the bottom. Go ahead and wiggle the shock and remove that bolt. Now you can remove the bolt at the top and remove your factory shock. Now that we have the shock removed, we can remove all four nuts holding on the U-bolts to the axle. Ensure that your truck is still supported underneath the axle. Grab a 21-millimeter socket and go ahead and get this removed. And now you can remove your U-bolts.Now that those bolts are removed, you can go ahead and slowly lower the axle. Keep in mind because it is a straight axle truck, you may wanna do both sides simultaneously. Now that we have the factory shock uninstalled from our truck, we can check it out side by side with our Rough Country shock here. Now, this is their premium N3 shock, it's a high-pressure nitrogen-charged shock with a 10-stage variable valving. It does feature an 18-millimeter rod with a 35-millimeter piston and this nice, long 54-millimeter shock body that helps with heat dissipation.They finished it off with a nice metallic silver powder coat, which will be a nice visual upgrade for you as well. So, with that said, let's get it installed. Now, you can grab the included lift block and slide it on top of the stock block. You'll notice that there are two pegs on the bottom, make sure those are lined up. And the two pegs up top, make sure as you raise it back up, they're lining up in your new block. And now you can install the longer U-bolts right in the exact same position as the factory ones.Now we can slide the factory bracket over top of all four of these new U-bolts and install the included hardware. We're using a washer over each one with the included nylon locknuts. Go ahead and line up the bracket, and with your 22-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten these down. Try your best to tighten these evenly across and you may wanna crisscross in a sequence to ensure that they seat evenly. Now you can install the new shock. Go ahead and line it up in the top mounting point, slide in your factory hardware.Now you can install the bottom of the shock. You may need to compress it a bit in order to get it lined up. But once it's lined up, slide your bolt through, install the factory nut, then with your 18-millimeter socket and 15-millimeter wrench, or vice versa if you have the bolt the other way, go ahead and tighten it down. And repeat that for the top bolt as well. And now that your passenger side is complete, if you haven't been working simultaneously, make sure you repeat all those steps on the other side. Once you're all finished, make sure the entire truck is torqued to spec and you will want a professional alignment afterwards.All right. So that is gonna do it for the review and install this leveling kit. And remember for all things F150, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Front Leveling Kit
      • Adds 2 Inches of Ride Height
      • Enhances Truck’s Off-Road Style
      • Made From High-Quality Materials
      • Can Run Up to 33-Inch Tires
      • Installation Hardware Is Supplied
      • Includes a Lifetime Replacement Warranty
      • Fits All 2009-2020 Ford F-150 Models, Excluding Raptors

      Description

      Instantly Adds 2 Inches of Ride Height. Give your Ford F-150 a more aggressive stance with this 2-Inch Leveling Lift Kit from Rough Country. With this kit, not only will it raise your truck by 2 inches, but it’ll also allow you to install up to 33-inch tires. Plus, this leveling lift kit is compatible with your truck’s factory components, making it an affordable upgrade.

      Made From Premium Quality Materials. This Leveling Lift Kit is designed to keep up with your extreme off-road lifestyle. Each of its components is made from high-quality and durable materials, so it can endure the harshest road conditions and climates.

      Boast a Bolt-On Design. You won’t have any problems installing this 2-inch leveling lift kit. Since it features a bolt-on design, you don’t have to drill or cut anything when setting up this product. This also means that you won’t have to disassemble your struts to complete the installation.

      Comes With a Lifetime Replacement Warranty. A lifetime replacement warranty is included with every purchase of this product. To know more about this coverage, please visit Rough Country’s website.

      Application. The Rough Country 2-Inch Leveling Lift Kit fits all 2009-2020 Ford F-150 models, excluding Raptors.

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      Fitment:

      Details

      Rough Country 52230

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Strut Spacers
      • (2) Premium N3 Shocks
      • Installation Hardware
      4.7

      Customer Reviews (173)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My F-150

        • 2.7L V6 EcoBoost - 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20
        • 3.0L V6 Power-Stroke - 18, 19, 20
        • 3.3L V6 - 18, 19, 20
        • 3.5L V6 - 15, 16, 17
        • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost - 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20
        • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost Limited - 19, 20
        • 3.5L V6 EcoBoost Raptor - 17, 18, 19, 20
        • 3.7L V6 - 11, 12, 13, 14
        • 4.6L V8 - 09, 10
        • 5.0L V8 - 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20
        • 5.4L V8 - 09, 10
        • 5.4L V8 Raptor - 10
        • 6.2L V8 - 11, 12, 13, 14
        • 6.2L V8 Raptor - 10, 11, 12, 13, 14

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