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Mammoth 3-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit (04-14 2WD/4WD F-150, Excluding Raptor)

Item T542567
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. It's Sarah with And today, we have a review and install of the Mammoth 3-Inch Front and 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit, fitting your '04 to '14 two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive F150s, excluding the raptor. This is perfect for the F150 owner who wants to level their truck but still plans to tow, so doesn't want to remove all of their factory rake. This kit will get you some more room for wheels and tires while saving money over more pricey options. This spacer and block leveling kit provides 3 inches of lift in the front and a 2-inch lift block for the rear, providing lift, but also giving your truck a more level appearance. This kit evens out your truck's stance and provides more room for wheels and tires while maintaining ride quality.Depending on your F150's year and model, stock tire sizes may vary. On our truck, stock is a 31, which is what you will see in this video. And with this kit installed, you should be able to fit a 33-inch tire comfortably. This kit includes two spacers for the front that feature CNC machined billet aluminum construction with a black anodized finish, as well as two spacers for the rear, which features steel construction and a black powder coat finish, as well as all of the necessary mounting hardware. So, I did wanna point out that your front spacer comes in at about 2 inches. Now, the extra inch is made up for in the change in suspension geometry you get from installing the spacer. And for the rear, this one measures in at approximately 2 inches. Now, you are gonna be removing the 1-inch factory rear block. So you will end up with about 1-inch of lift in the rear.So, as far as price goes, this kit comes in at around $150, which is on the lower end price-wise when compared to other options. This kit still features a full front and rear leveling solution to give your truck a more level appearance, make some more room for wheels and tires, and still keep some money in your pocket over more expensive options. And as far as the install goes, I'm giving this one a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does feature a direct bolt-up installation with no modification required, although you will want a professional alignment afterwards. All in all, it can be done within four hours. So, with that said, let's check out the install.For this install, we used a flathead screwdriver, a pop clip removal tool, a caliper hanger, 8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 21, 22, 24, and 30-millimeter sockets, 27, 22, 21, 18, 17, and 15-millimeter wrenches, a pry bar, 8 and 5-millimeter Allen sockets, or you can use Allen keys, a swivel extension, an impact gun, or a ratchet will work just fine, a vacuum pump, and a hammer or rubber mallet. All right. So the first step in our uninstall with your truck in the air and a wheel removed, we're gonna start by removing two bolts that hold brackets for lines on the side of your knuckle. So, starting out, we have a 10-millimeter bolt right here that holds on your brake line. We're gonna grab a 10-millimeter socket and remove this. Then you can remove the bracket out of that little hole there on the tab. Next up, we have an 8-millimeter bolt here. So with an 8-millimeter socket, go ahead and remove this. Now, both of these lines should be free of the knuckle. Next up, we're gonna remove the 21-millimeter nut that holds on your outer tie rod to your knuckle. With your 21-millimeter socket, go ahead and get this removed. Now, if it doesn't wanna come out right away, what I'm gonna do is thread this nut back on a little bit to protect the threads, and then we'll tap it on the side here to release it.All right. Now we're moving on to the underside of the vehicle. We're gonna do two different things, starting with disconnecting the nut for the sway bar end link. Now, you can remove the entire end link, or you can just disconnect one side, and that will disconnect your sway bar. Go ahead and grab an 18-millimeter socket and remove it. All right. Now we're moving on to the back of our caliper. Now, we do need to remove the caliper as well as the rotor to have access to our knuckle. So what we're gonna do is get to the back of the caliper bracket itself with a 21-millimeter socket and remove the bolts. Now, another helpful tip here is, while you're separating the caliper from the rotor, throw a lug nut on there just to hold the rotor in place, so it doesn't come off with the caliper. From there, you can either wiggle the caliper off, or if it's very, very tight, you can use a pry bar and pull back on the brake pads in order to release them.Once your caliper is off, grab a caliper hanger or a similar tool, even some wire will work, just to take the tension off the brake line and hang it up. All right. Now we can take our lug nut off. And as you can see, the rotor is free. Now, if it's not, you can tap on the backside here with a rubber mallet, but since ours is already free moving, we can just slide it right off. We'll also be removing this dust shield just so it's out of the way. It's three 8-millimeter bolts. So go ahead and grab an 8-millimeter socket and get this removed. And now we'll also remove this sensor from the knuckle as well. This is a 5-millimeter Allen. So grab a 5-millimeter Allen key or Allen socket and remove this bolt. Now you can wiggle out the sensor and hang it off to the side.Next up, we're moving to the back of the knuckle. We're gonna pull off the vacuum line. And on the larger port, we're gonna place the line for our vacuum pump. Now, we're gonna pull about 20 pounds of vacuum in order to release the four-wheel-drive actuator so that we can pull the axle out. At this point, we need to remove the dust cover for our axle nut to expose the axle. And make sure we still have vacuum pulled, but with a 13-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the axle nut. Now, at this point, we can release the upper ball joint by removing the nut. I'm just gonna throw a pry bar in there just as a precaution in case it releases as soon as we loosen this nut. I have a 21-millimeter socket here as well as a swivel to get a proper angle on it. Go ahead and remove this as we push down on the upper control arm. Now, because it didn't release, we will now have to tap it right here until it does. Just leaving this bottom nut on a few threads to be able to loosen it by hand, that will protect the threads and will keep the upper control arm from completely releasing. Now, with a hammer, I'm gonna tap the side of the knuckle right up here until it releases. Putting our pry bar back in and prying down, we will now remove the nut and release the upper control arm completely.All right. Now, the last thing holding on our knuckle here is this nut on the lower ball joint. Now, this probably will not release by just loosening the nut, but be prepared, if it does release, to not allow the entire thing to come down. Grab a 24-millimeter socket and get this removed. Okay. So it is still attached to the ball joint here. It did not actually release. So we're gonna thread on this nut a little bit of the way, and then we're gonna hit the backside of this with a hammer until it releases. All right. So now that that is released, we can lift up on the knuckle. Make sure you are still pulling vacuum, and you can wiggle it loose and remove it. All right. Now, I did want to show you guys why we pull this vacuum in order to pull this knuckle off. Again, you don't have to pull the knuckle, but it makes it a lot easier. So when we pull vacuum, you may notice the inside ring of this four-wheel-drive actuator to move. Once we have about 20 pounds, it should be still, and then once I release this, you can see it go back to engaging. So when there's no vacuum, it's engaged. When you pull the vacuum, it releases. So you can remove this knuckle without damaging your four-wheel drive.All right. Next up, we're gonna remove the large bolt that goes through the bottom of your strut. Now, on the bolt side, we have a 27-millimeter wrench, and on the nut side, we have a 30-millimeter socket. Go ahead and get this removed. All right. So before we remove the nuts on top of the strut, I am just gonna pull this pop clip out just to give us a little more room on the far nut. We have a pop clip removal tool, and we're just gonna pull it up and out. Next up, we have a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench. We're gonna start with the front-most nut here. Go ahead and get it removed. Moving on to the far one, this one is just behind that one. Again, with your 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench, go ahead and remove it. Now, you can also use a 15-millimeter socket and ratchet. You just have a little less room with that. This is why I like the ratcheting wrench. Now, finally, we have one more nut here. We're gonna loosen this almost all the way but not remove it, so we can use it to hold our strut in while we remove the bottom portion.All right. Now that it is just hand tight, we can start to remove the strut. All right. At this point, we can pry down on our lower control arm to get our strut removed. I'm putting a pry bar in here and using the frame to pull down on the lower control arm. And what we're just gonna do is try to have this bottom part clear its bracket. And now that it's out, we can remove the last nut we have up top and remove it off the truck.All right. So before we can get our strut reinstalled with the spacer, we need to install these bolts. Now, these are an 8-millimeter Allen bolt. So I have an 8-millimeter Allen socket here to help us drive it through. And we're gonna pick the holes that have threads in them. It's a recess, and then the threads are at the back. We're gonna install the bolt through the recessed side and start to thread it into the threads. Now, I'm just getting them started with a socket, and then I will grab the impact gun and finish them off. Moving on to the second threaded hole. using the socket to help us spin it in. Since it is a little on the thicker side, it's sort of harder to do with your fingers, but the socket or an Allen key will help. Now, here is our final hole. And now with our impact gun, we will drive these in the rest of the way.All right. At this point, we can install it on the strut. Now, there's only one configuration this can line up to. So, if your studs are not lining up, just spin the spacer until you have it in the proper configuration. Now, again, I'm gonna use a socket to help me out. I have a 15-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna thread the factory nuts over top of the studs. And I'm just threading them on a little bit of the way so that it can help me line it up. And now with our impact gun and 15-millimeter socket, we can tighten it down.All right. So at this point, we can install the strut now that our spacer is on top. Now, one important thing to keep in mind is that this strut will be 180 degrees out of how it was factory. So make sure you're lining the studs up on the spacer with the openings on the truck. Go ahead and line it up with the frame. And once it is lined up, we are gonna throw one of the included nuts on top here. So make sure it stays in place while we install the bottom portion. All right. At this point, we're gonna throw our pry bar back in there, so we can pry down on the lower control arm and slide the strut in its bracket. Now, at this point, we are gonna use the pry bar to line up the bolt through and install the nut on the other side. Now, with our 30-millimeter socket and 27-millimeter wrench, we're gonna tighten this down. At this point, we're gonna reinstall the knuckle.Now, we have our vacuum pulled on it from before. Make sure that it's still good, still pulling vacuum. We're gonna line up the axle as well as the lower ball joint. Maybe a little bit difficult to line them both up at the same time. And once they are lined up, we're gonna throw the nut on the bottom and thread it up a little bit to hold it in place. All right. So we are jacking up on the lower control arm in order to compress our strut assembly so that we can get the axle lined up and the upper ball joint reinstalled. Now, we're lining up the axle and pressing it through the knuckle. Now, you may see some threads right in there, but make sure it's all the way through, which may take a little bit of wiggling and pressing. There we go. That's all the way through. You should see a little bit of a shoulder on the backside, and the threads are completely exposed. Go ahead and thread the factory nut on there, and with your 13-millimeter socket, tighten it down.With our axle fully reattached, we can release the vacuum, and then remove the tube off the back. And now we can tighten up the nut for our lower ball joint with our 24-millimeter socket. And now at this point, we can line up the upper ball joint. We are using our pry bar again to pry down on the upper control arm. We still have the lower control arm jacked up. We're pressing it all the way down, and then we're gonna thread on our nut. Now, if your ball joint starts to spin, just put some more pressure on the top of it as you're tightening it down. Now, we're gonna use our 21-millimeter socket and a swivel extension, and again, we're gonna put a ton of pressure on the top of this upper ball joint so it doesn't spin as we're tightening. Go ahead and tighten it down. All right. So as you guys could see, our ball joint was spinning, and no matter how much force we put on the top of it, we couldn't get it to stand still enough to tighten the nut down. Luckily, there is another option. It's a little more tedious that's why we went with the socket and the pry bar first. We have a 21-millimeter ratcheting wrench and a 10-millimeter wrench. What we're gonna do is slide the ratcheting wrench on top, which will tighten the nut, and then we hold the 10-millimeter on the bottom part of it to hold the shank of the ball joint in place, and we just tighten this down by hand. Now we can reinstall our sensor. And with our 5-millimeter Allen key or Allen socket, tighten it down.At this point, we can reinstall the dust cover. Make sure you're not catching that sensor cable at all, and it's just resting behind there. Thread in the factory hardware into all three of the mounting points. And with your 8-millimeter socket, tighten them down. Now we can replace the dust cover. You can just wiggle it into place, but if it's not seating all the way, you can lightly tap it with a rubber mallet. Now we can replace the rotor. And we are using the lug nut method again just to keep it in place, so it doesn't fall off while we install the caliper. And at this point, we can grab the caliper, line it up over top of your rotor, and wiggle it in place. If for some reason it doesn't clear the rotor, you can pry on the brake pads just to make it a little bit more of a gap, so it can slide over top.Reinstall your factory hardware, and with your 21-millimeter socket, tighten it down. And while we're under here, we can also reinstall and tighten down the nut on the end of your sway bar end link. Now, I do recommend doing this once both sides are done because it is a little bit easier to manipulate if your sway bar is disconnected. Grab an 18-millimeter socket and tighten it down. Don't forget to reconnect the vacuum line on the back of the knuckle. And reconnect your outer tie rod, line it up with your knuckle, and wiggle it into place. Reinstall the factory nut. And with your 21-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Now we can reconnect the lines to our knuckle. We're starting with this brake line. Line up the bracket tab in the opening. Thread in your factory 10-millimeter bolt. And with your 10-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Line up the 8-millimeter bolt to the line right next to it. Thread in your bolt, and with your 8-millimeter socket, tighten it down. And don't forget to reconnect the pop clip that holds the lines on top of your strut tower. All right. Now, this side is complete, you're gonna repeat all of those steps to install your passenger side. Make sure everything is torqued to spec, and then we'll move on to our rear install.All right. So we have our truck up on the lift here, and we're supporting the axle. If you aren't on a lift, make sure you are still supporting your axle with some jack stands if you are working in your driveway. Next up, we're gonna remove the bolt from the bottom of the shock. Grab a 15-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench and get this removed. Now, using a 21-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the four nuts on the bottom of the U-bolts. Go ahead and get these removed. Now we can remove the U-bolts. If this line is attached to one of your U-bolts still, just pop the clip off, you can do it by hand, and then remove both of your U-bolts. At this point, we can lower the axle down slowly until we can remove the factory block. Go ahead and lower it down. Pull your block up and remove it. All right. Now that we have our factory block uninstalled from our truck, we can check it out side by side with our new block here. Now, as you can see, this one is larger than your factory. The factory block measures in at approximately 1-inch, where this new block measures in at approximately 2 inches, and it is tapered as well. It also includes longer U-bolts to accommodate the larger block as well as new hardware, which is a nice touch. So, with that said, let's finish up our install.All right. At this point, you can lower down your axle enough to slip in this block. Just make sure you're cautious as you're lowering it, and as soon as you have enough room, go ahead and slide it in. Now, it's gonna go in this configuration with the smaller end towards the front, and make sure you line up the posts at the bottom as well as the openings in the top. Now, once your block is in place, there is a little bit of adjustability here to allow you as you raise the axle to line up the top pins as I said before. And once it is lined up, you can go ahead and drop your U-bolts over the top. All right. At this point, you can reinstall the factory bracket, line up the holes, and it may help to pinch this U-bolt, again, because it is longer just to help it line up and make sure it stays in that bracket up top and it's seated properly as you install this bottom bracket. Now you can go ahead and install your hardware, a washer, as well as a nut on each of the ends of the U-bolts. And now using our 22-millimeter socket, we're gonna drive these up as far as we can with the socket.All right. Again, as I said before, these are a lot longer than your factory. So because of this length, we are gonna finish these off with a 22-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Now, if you don't like how long these are, you can trim them down, or you can leave them as is and tighten them using your ratcheting wrench. Now, we're gonna try our best to tighten all of these evenly so the bracket is even side to side as well as front to back. And if you go a little too far on one, you can always adjust them later. And don't forget to clip back on this line. It will fit over these new U-bolts. Now we can line up the shock mount, reinstall your hardware, and with an 18-millimeter wrench and a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench, tighten it down. All right. Now that this side is complete, you can repeat all of those steps to install your other side. Make sure everything is torqued to spec and get a professional alignment afterwards. But that is gonna do it for the review and install of this leveling kit. And remember, for all things F150, keep it at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • 3.0-inch Front / 2.0-inch Rear Leveling Kit
      • Corrects Factory Rake for a Level Stance
      • Increases Ground Clearance
      • CNC-Machined Aluminum Front Strut Spacers
      • Black Anodized Finish
      • Fabricated Rear Leaf Spring Blocks
      • Black Powder Coated Finish
      • Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation
      • Fits 2004-2014 Ford F-150 2WD/4WD Models, Excludes Raptor


      Lifts and Eliminates Rake. A Mammoth Leveling Kit will raise the front of your 2004-2014 Ford F-150 by 3.0-inches and the rear by 2.0-inches to eliminate the factory rake. This Mammoth Kit will not only level your F-150, but it will also help to increase ground clearance as well.

      Quality Construction. The included Mammoth Strut Spacers have been CNC-machined from aircraft grade billet aluminum for superior strength and durability. Mammoth then completes their Strut Spacers in a durable black anodized finish for good looks and long lasting corrosion resistance. The included Mammoth Lift Blocks are fabricated from steel for strength and are then completed in a durable black powder coated finish.

      Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation. Mammoth designed their Front / Rear Leveling Kit to be a straight forward bolt-on install with no cutting or drilling required. With all the necessary hardware included, this Leveling Kit can be installed in about 4 hours time.

      Application. This Mammoth 3.0-inch Front / 2.0-inch Rear Leveling Kit is specifically engineered to fit 2004-2014 2WD and 4WD Ford F-150 models. Does not fit SVT Raptor.

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      Mammoth T542567

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) 51.5mm Strut Spacers
      • (6) M10x1.50 Bolts
      • (6) M10 Lock Nuts
      • (2) Lift Blocks
      • (4) U-Bolts
      • (8) Nuts
      • (8) Washers

      Customer Reviews (93)

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