(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$419.95 (pair)FREE Shipping
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Hey, guys. Sara from americantrucks.com. And today, we have a review and install of ReadyLIFT's upper control arms for 2.25 lifting or leveling kits. This is gonna fit your '14 through '18 Silverado or Sierra 1500 trucks. This kit was designed to work with your 2.25-inch lifting or leveling kit and will allow you to get the most out of your lift. This kit is made in the USA from heavy-duty DOM tube steel with reinforced joint cups and one-ton spring-loaded ball joints. This kit also features ReadyLIFT's free-floating, self-lubricating bushings with built-in washers for maintenance-free operation. Coming in at around $420, this is a middle of the road option price-wise, but it's a great addition to your lift or leveling kit to correct your ball joint angle. I'm giving this install a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It can be done in approximately two hours, but it is a bit of an involved install. You will have to remove several suspension components in order to access your upper control arms. All right. With that said, let's jump right into our install.For this install, you will need a hammer, an impact gun, a half-inch drive ratchet, an extension, 10, 15, 18, 21, and 22-millimeter sockets as well as a 7/16 socket, a 15-millimeter wrench, 21-millimeter wrench, and an 18-millimeter wrench as well as a pry bar and a breaker bar. You will also need a sharpie, and an optional but helpful tool includes a vise grips. All right, so we are gonna start our install removing the nuts at the top of our strut in the engine bay. This is a little bit easier to get to them from here because we have full access to it. If you don't want to do that, you can definitely still get to it from the wheel well, just a little bit more difficult. And because we're working on a lift, better to do this now than when it's in the air. So, grab your 18-millimeter socket, and you will need an extension, and go ahead and remove those now. You may have to move the wiring harness out of the way to access some of the nuts.Now that our truck is in the air and we have the wheel removed, we can now remove the bracket holding on our brake line as well as the Christmas tree clamp holding on our ABS line. Remove your brake line bracket using a 10-millimeter socket. Remove the Christmas tree bracket holding on our ABS line. Next up, remove your sway bar end link using a 15-millimeter wrench and a 15-millimeter socket. So, if our sway bar end link is fighting a little bit, you might want to disconnect the other side since they both have to come out anyway, and then you have enough room to maneuver the sway bar up, and this bolt out.With our sway bar end link disconnected, support your lower control arm, and we can now remove the nut holding in our upper control arm to the knuckle. Using our 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench, remove the bolt on the underside of the ball joint, freeing our upper control arm. Once your control arm is ready to come out of the top of your knuckle, put a pry bar on top just to control it as it will want to spring out pretty quickly. Once your nut is off, you can slowly release on the pry bar. The ball joint should come free of the knuckle. We can now remove the two bolts at the bottom of our strut with a 15-millimeter socket. You may need to use a pair of vise grips or pliers to hold that clip nut steady while you take the bolt out of the bottom. Next up, we can lower down our pole jack so that we can get our shock off of our truck. So, maneuvering the bottom of the shock will allow you to pull it out through the top of the control arm.At this point, we can take our control arm out, but before we do so, it's important to mark the alignment cams that are on each side of your hardware holding in your control arm. This will allow you to put it back within sort of where you want to be alignment-wise. You will still need a professional alignment, but this will get you close. At this point, you can remove the hardware holding in your upper control arm. You may need a breaker bar to get this broken loose for you. Grabbing your 21-millimeter wrench and socket. Once you've broken it loose, you can switch to a ratchet, which should speed things up. Once your other side is free, go ahead and repeat that process on this side of the control arm.All right. Now that we have our stock upper control arm uninstalled from our truck, we can put it side by side with our ReadyLIFT control arm and really check out some of the similarities and differences. So, it is worth noting that right around 2016, GM switched to a stamp steel construction on their upper control arm. This is not very well suited to lifting or leveling kits just because the way the ball joint is seated and the control arm is not very securely in there. There's no locking ring to really put it in there nice and tight, and it doesn't have as much support as it needs in your control arm. This is just gonna really decrease the longevity, the life of your ball joint. Gonna end up having to replace it a lot sooner. Now, ReadyLIFT's option has a reinforced joint cup for the ball joint as well as a much stronger heavy-duty ball joint in here that if you're gonna do the lift kit anyway, this is a great addition to sort of save yourself some time, some headache down the line. All right. So, with that said, let's get our new control arm installed on our truck.With our uninstall complete, we can now reinstall our upper control arm. Slide it in place in the frame and try to line up each side so the hardware can go back in. Once our upper control arm is slightly lined up, grab your hardware and get it aligned in your frame. Try to get your hardware as lined up as you can to the marks that you made earlier. If it's not perfectly spot-on, you can make some small adjustments to get it there. Now, get your hardware in the other side. Ensure that it's as aligned as you can get it at this point. If your marks are slightly off once your hardware is in, you can just begin to tighten them and sort of get them into the spot close to where you got it before. Once they are both lined up on each side, tighten this down. With the other side tightened down, line up the other side of our control arm and then tighten this one down as well.With our control arm installed on our truck and tighten down, we can now reinstall our strut. Once our strut is in place, throw a nut up top to hold it in place, and we can tighten that down later on. With our strut in place, we can now reinstall these clip nuts on top and get our bolts through. Now that we have both of our bolts threaded in, we can tighten them down. You may need to clamp on the top nut with the vise grips or pliers and go ahead and tighten these down with a 15-millimeter socket. With our pole jack in place underneath our knuckle, we can lift it up on the knuckle a little bit to get it aligned with our ball joint, and now we can pry down on our upper control arm and get our ball joint seated in the knuckle. With our nut in place on our ball joint, grab your 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and get this tightened down.At this point, we can reinstall our sway bar end links. It might be easier to do both of these at the same time. So, once you have both end links hand tight on both sides, you can now tighten them down. If you don't have them both tight yet, this would be the time to do so, but both of our end links are in and hand tight, so grab your 15-millimeter wrench and socket and tighten these down. All right. Now, we can reinstall our Christmas tree clip holding in our ABS line as well as our brake line bracket. Starting with our Christmas tree clip, line up the pin behind it and the clip in the hole in front. Grabbing the included nylon lock nut, thread it over your brake line bracket. Grab your 7/16 socket and tighten this down.All right. At this point, we have the truck on the ground. We can reinstall the nuts on top of the strut. Grab your 18-millimeter socket and get these tightened down. All right. So, that's gonna do it for that side. Make sure you repeat that process on your other side, and you will need an alignment immediately afterwards. But that'll do it for our review and install. Keep it at americantrucks.com.
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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