(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Jake here for AmericanTrucks. And today I'm taking a look at the Proven Ground C&L Series Super Sport HD Front & Rear Brake and Rotor Pad Kit, fitting 2014 to 2018 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra 1500s. Brakes are some of the most important components of your vehicle, and if you're looking for a way to upgrade your Silverado's braking performance without spending a fortune, these drilled and slotted rotors and their accompanying pads are worth some serious consideration. Whether you're daily driving, hitting the trail, towing, or hauling, these are a definitive upgrade over your stock brakes for one of the lowest prices in the category.Now, traditionally, manufacturers will equip their trucks with solid discs from the factory, and while those work just fine for most applications, there's certainly room for improvement. One of the best ways to do that is upgrading to a set of drilled and slotted rotors like these which are going to be extremely helpful in dissipating heat.Now, heat is the enemy of braking performance, and that's where these channels and holes in the faces of the rotors come in. As you apply the brakes, friction and heat build-up on the pads and the faces of the rotors, and these channels funnel that heat away from the pads. The holes also allow for another escape route where heat can dissipate and get funneled through the central veins. So, all the hot gases have plenty of places by which to escape. And less heat means less fading and better overall braking response.Now, if you've ever had your brakes get hot on you, you know how scary of an experience that can be, so doing everything you can to avoid that is worth it. And it's especially important if you're towing or hauling with your truck. That's all to say that you're gonna get much better heat dissipation with this setup, and that means that your braking performance is gonna be improved over stock.Now, in addition to all that, the rotors both front and rear are constructed from CNC machined premium cast iron, so they are similar in construction to your standard OEM brakes, but they're finished with this bright zinc electroplating to help prevent against rust and corrosion for a long time. Now, these rotors are also milled balanced to prevent against unwanted vibration, noise, and uneven wear, which is good because cast iron happens to be heavy. However, that cast iron construction does mean that the price stays low. Now the pads here again both front and rear are made from a proprietary ceramic compound that's designed to produce a consistent solid bite and resist fade throughout their lifetime.Now, speaking of pricing, this set as you see it here on the table is gonna run you about $450. And that is very much the lower end of the price spectrum for a full set of front and rear brakes, especially because you get this drilled and slotted design on the rotors. These are the least expensive option for drilled and slotted rotors for this gen of Silverado, and one of the least expensive options for a full set of front and rear brakes in general. So, I think that this setup really represents a very good value for money because not only are you getting everything you need for a complete brake overhaul, but you're also going to come away with improved performance and stopping capability.Installation is gonna come in at a two out of three on our difficulty meter, and you should plan on it taking you about four hours to install. Now brakes are a pretty straightforward job, just something that's a bit time-consuming. And, of course, you are gonna have to remove your calipers to get these off. It can get a little finicky, but it is definitely a job that you can accomplish at home with some patience. And to show you just how to get it done, let's head on over to the install bay.Tools required for this install are a ratchet, a 13, 18, and 19-millimeter socket, a Torx T30 bit, adjustable wrench, Phillips head screwdriver, caliper compression tool, a hammer, pry bar, bungee cord, and some optional penetrating lubricant.Hey, everybody, we're gonna be showing you today how to install this front and rear brake and rotor pad kit on our 2014 Silverado. Now, as you probably noticed already, the truck is up in the air and we've got the wheels taken off. So, that is gonna be the first thing that you wanna do. Once you've got that done and the truck is where you need it to be, you're gonna go ahead and obviously remove the stock brake rotors and pads. And with that, let's get into it, and we'll show you how to get that done.All right. First, we're gonna start by taking off these two bolts here, this one up top and this one on the bottom so we can release the central part of the caliper. So, I'm gonna take my ratchet, this is a 19-millimeter socket on here. We're just going to break these loose. You may have to put a little force into these depending on how long they've been on the truck. And the same thing down here. The caliper should be free, so you can just wiggle this right out. And we're gonna set this aside.All right. Now with the caliper off, we're gonna get this out of the way because we need a little bit of space. We're gonna come back and compress this later. So, I'm just gonna take my bungee cord and feed it right through here. I'm gonna set this off to the side as best I can. I'm going to hook it up here on these suspension bolts just to keep it up and out of the way because we don't want this to fall and hang from the brake line itself. Okay, now that's nice and secure. We're gonna go ahead and start taking out the pads.All right. Now we're gonna go ahead and take the pads out. Now you might just be able to get these out by hand, but if they need a little bit of help, you can get just a flathead screwdriver or a small pry bar and just take them out. Now, you want to make sure you know which direction these are going in because the pads for the front are different front to back here. So, I'm gonna just set this one aside right there so I know where it goes, and go ahead and get the one in the back. Again, same deal. These may just come out, or you may just need a little bit of help to do it.All right. Now that we got our pads out, we're actually going to revisit the caliper very quickly because I wanna compress this using the old brake pad. So, I'm gonna get rid of my bungee cord for a second. Once that's out of the way, we're gonna take that pad that we just removed from the back side of the rotor here, set it on here, just like that. You're going to need a caliper compression tool, so we're just gonna set this guy right in here. I'm just gonna click this until we push those pistons back in. Now, since mine really only works one side at a time, I'm going to swap over and do the other side as well, just to make sure we get this nice and even so our new pads can go on more easily.All right. That's about as good as we're gonna get that. So, we'll go ahead, take that pad back out, set it aside, and we're going to string this back up and get it out of our way so we can go get the carrier bolts out of here. So, just like before, just take that bungee cord, bring this guy around, and hang it up here. So, it's supported by the cord and not by that soft brake line, and set out of our way.Next, we're gonna go ahead and remove the bolts here for our carrier. There are two bolts, one on the bottom, one on the top here. These are 18-millimeter bolts. I'm just gonna go ahead and take our ratchet. May have to give this a little bit of a whack, again, depending on how long they've been on your truck. A little penetrating lubricant wouldn't go amiss here either. Just make your life a little bit easier.And something to keep in mind with both these bolts, we are working on the passenger side here, so I am facing the back end of the bolt. Means I have to go the opposite way that I think I do to get these out. And once you got these most of the way out, I'm just gonna take the rest of this one out by hand because there's nothing that'd be holding this on. We're going to take this out and set it aside because we're going to put our new pads in it very soon.All right. Next, we're gonna go ahead and remove the holding screw here on the front of our rotor. I'm gonna take myself a nice big cheater bar, put it between the lugs underneath that hub so I can hold this in place, and then just give this a nice little turn and it should come right out. Once you got that loose, you can set that cheater bar aside. That's just to keep the wheel hub itself from moving.Now, these things are notoriously tricky. If you've done brakes before you know what I'm talking about. So, you may have to put a little heat on this one and make sure when you put this back, if your truck has them, don't over-tighten them too much. Now we're gonna go ahead and set this aside and we're gonna pull our rotor off. All right. Now, sometimes these will just come free like they did right now. We'll set that aside. You may need to take a hammer, though, and give them a couple of good whacks. Don't be afraid to use a little bit of force on these.Now we're gonna go ahead and install our new rotor. So, we're gonna take the new one. And since these are drilled and slotted, it's important to make sure that this is the way that they're facing. So, these are kind of going towards the back of the truck here. We're gonna take this with this whole facing up because that's where we're gonna put our retainer screw just where it came off the factory one. Get that on there nice. Go ahead and take that bolt here, get that started. Once you get that started, you can take your ratchet. Again, this is a T30 bolt on this one. Let's get that tightened down, snugged up here. Don't have to go too tight on this. Again, you're gonna wanna make your life easier when you go to change these again later.All right. Now, once we've got that on, we're gonna go ahead and reattach our carrier for the brake pads. Next, we're gonna go ahead and put the carrier back on here. We're gonna get this lined up, take our bolts. Again, reusing the stock bolts, too, here. You may have to do a little bit of fiddling to get these started. Once you get the top one started, you can go ahead and do the bottom one up, the same thing. Then we're gonna go ahead and tighten these down. Again, I'm gonna get these nice and snug. You can torque them to spec, but do not over-tighten them.It's also a good time to note, too, while you've got this stuff off of the truck, it's a great time to go ahead and clean it up since you are gonna be reusing a bunch of different things with this kit, including the bolts, the carriers, and the shims that are on here as well. So, make sure you take some time to inspect, ensure that they're in good condition, and maybe take a wire brush or just clean them up a little bit before you put them back on the truck. Just gonna make your life a little bit easier the next time you gotta do brakes. Again, we get that nice and snug. All right. And then we're ready to put in our pads.All right. Before we go ahead and put our pads in, I'm gonna take some of the provided grease here, just a little bit. I changed my gloves to rubber gloves here so I don't get this all over my hands. I'm just gonna put this on these parts right here where the calipers are gonna slide, or excuse me, where the pads are gonna slide. Again, don't go too crazy with this. You just have to put a little bit here to get them lubricated, since these are new, and make sure you're careful not to get this on the face of the rotor itself because you do not want that to get on there. I'm gonna go ahead and do the same thing on the inside edges, again making sure I don't get anything on the rotor itself. If you do, make sure you wipe that off pretty quick. And don't use all your grease on this either because we are gonna need a little bit for the backs of the pads themselves.All right. Now we'll go ahead and get our pads in. Now we're ready to insert our brake pads. Just a quick note. There are different ones for different sides. So, this one with the extra part on the bottom here, that's gonna go on the inside, and this one is gonna go on the outside of the truck. So, we're gonna set this guy aside, for now, take this and just get in seated in one side right here. Now, you may have to take a flathead screwdriver, give yourself a little extra wiggle room, and leverage here. Just get those started. And once you've got that in, make sure the backing plate's on and just go ahead and set that in where it goes. Then we'll take our grease and put a little bit here. But before we do that, we're gonna go ahead and get the other pad in on the inside. Again, this is gonna be the orientation here. I'm gonna go ahead and slide this guy in. Again, this is the one with the larger flange on the bottom. It's gonna go the same way. We're just gonna work that guy right on in just like that.Once you've got those in, we're gonna go ahead and grease the backing plates of both pads so they're gonna move nice when we put the caliper on. Now we're gonna go ahead and grease these backing plates on the pads themselves. Again, you don't have to use a whole heck of a lot here, just enough to get some nice lubrication. Now I'm putting them on a rubber glove. Just kind of spread this out nice, but just on the backing plate. You do not wanna get this on the rotor or on the face of the pad itself. I'm just gonna spread that out a little bit. Make sure you get that nice and greased up there. Then we'll go ahead and do the same thing on the outer pad.Now we're ready to put our caliper back on, so I'm gonna go ahead and disconnect my bungee cord from up here, pull it out of the caliper itself. I'm so sure we'll need that. I'll set that aside. Now we're gonna go ahead and set the caliper back over top of our new pads. You may have to push these little guys in here to get that where it needs to be. Then we'll take our two bolts on the back of the caliper, we're gonna go ahead and start getting these in.All right. Once we've got this on again, we're just gonna take our caliper bolts. We're reusing the ones from earlier, of course. Let's get them in. You may have to move this around or finagle a little bit to get them where you need them. And once you've got them tightened down by hand, put a ratchet on them and just snug them up. Just like the rest of the components here, these do not have to be super tight, so just get them nice and snug, maybe a quarter turn past, or you can torque these to spec as well. With that, that's our front brake done. You'll go ahead then and repeat this process on the other side of the front end of the truck.All right. Now we're here at the back. We're going to do the same process for the back. It's gonna be a little bit different, but mostly the same procedure. So, we're going to start by taking off the bolts for our caliper itself. So, we're gonna start on the top bolt right here. This is a 13-millimeter bolt on the outside, so we're going to take a shallow 13-millimeter socket on the outside here. And then there's also this nut on the inside. Now if you just go and crank this, that nut is going to spin, so I'm gonna take my adjustable wrench and just set that right here. Take my adjustable wrench and set that like this. I'm just gonna break this loose. I can hold that right where it needs to be while I back this bolt out. Set that bolt aside. We're gonna go down here on the bottom and do the exact same thing. Again, just a wrench on the inside here. Take our ratchet on the outside and just break it loose.Our caliper should be loose. We should be able to just take this and work it right off of the pads. And this, we're just gonna set right up here on leaf spring, make sure it's nice and solid and out of our way. If your pad happens to get a little bit stuck like this one has because it's been on here for a while, you can leave it on here, and we'll take it out once we get this carrier off of the truck. Just make sure you give yourself enough space so this will come off smoothly.Once we've got that done, we're going to go ahead and break these two bolts loose, one on top, one on the bottom here. These are 18-millimeter bolts. I've got my little pry bar here. I'm just gonna try and break that loose. Now I did soak these with some penetrating lubricant before we got started here just because I noticed that these were a little bit rusty. So, do yourself a favor, take a look before you get started on the job because you may need to do the same thing. Once we've got them broken loose, I'm gonna go ahead and take my regular ratchet and just back them the rest of the way out so we can get this carrier off the truck. We've got that off. We should just be able to pop this guy out because we'll have a little bit more leverage on.All right. Since this pad is being a little bit stubborn, I'm just gonna go ahead now that we've got it off of the truck, I'm gonna go ahead and give it a couple of taps with my mallet here. Now, this should work itself out. There are these tiny little safety tabs which you may be able to see right here. If those do get bent... We're going to try and avoid that because we're going to be reusing these shims on this job because this kit does not come with them. So, this side, I was able to get it down just by pushing it with the flathead screwdriver. I'm gonna take my mallet again and bang it right out.Now, once we've got that out, I'm gonna make sure I push these tabs down so we can get our new ones in. And this is a good time to mention that you might want to clean this stuff once you've got it out because we are gonna be re-lubing this and reusing this shim on this carrier bracket. All right. Now that we've got that out, we're gonna go up and recompress our caliper piston up there, and then we're gonna go ahead and take the rotor off the truck.Next, now that we've got our very stubborn pad out, I'm gonna go ahead and use it to compress our cylinder inside of the caliper here. So, we're just gonna take this in its regular orientation with the backing plate on there. I'm gonna take my caliper compression tool and just go ahead and squeeze this down as best I can. I'm just gonna go ahead and squeeze that down as best I can. Try and get that all the way in, you'll feel when it stops. Once we get that done, just released this, take that out, get rid of this. We're going to set this back aside because we're going to come back to it later.All right. If your rotor is being a little stubborn, there's a number of ways you can do this. You can take a hammer and hit around the edge to loosen up. You can also take those caliper bolts that we have from earlier, thread them right into these holes, and then crank them down with your ratchet. And that should start to pull this out a little bit more evenly. And it might just take another whack or two with the hammer to get it all the way off. You can see this is starting to pull the face of the rotor away from the hub of the truck. Do the same thing down here. And that's nice and loose, so we're just gonna pull that right on off.Now, again, since we're in here, this is a great time to mention it's worth taking some time to put a wire brush on this stuff and clean things up, especially if these haven't been off in a while. Make sure it's nice and clean, have a nice meeting surface so you don't have to fight them the next time you do brakes.All right. Now that we've got everything off, it's time to install the new parts. So, we're gonna go ahead and put our new rotor on the truck. Again, just like on the front, we wanna make sure that these veins and the holes here are facing back like this. So, make sure you have the correct one for the correct side of the truck because they are different. I'm gonna go ahead and just line these up and just set that on just like that, then we're gonna go ahead and get the caliper carrier bolted onto the back again.Now we're gonna go ahead and get the carrier back onto the truck. So, I'm just gonna slide this back in where it came from, again using the same bolts we used to take it off, get started. Once we've got them started, I'm gonna take our 18-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna crank them down. Once we've got those nice and snugged up, we're gonna get our brake grease and start applying that so we can put our pads in.All right. Now we're gonna go ahead and take our brake grease. I'm just gonna get a little bit on there and just dab it on the slider portions of these pins back here, again taking some time and care to make sure that you do not get it on the face of the rotor. Once you've got that done, I'm gonna go ahead, take these gloves off. Now that we've got that nice and lubed up, we're gonna go ahead and take our pad and just slide that in there. Now, the pads are a little bit different, so make sure that you check them before you go. The one that has the ear like this is gonna be for this side. It should match the one that you take off of the truck.So, just like the front side, we're gonna go ahead and just slide this guy right in the back here. May have to give it a little bit of encouragement to get them right on. All right. Let's go ahead and slide that in, just like we did on the other side. It should be nice and snug in there. And we're going to take a little bit of grease here. We're just going to apply it on the back side of the pad here. Just a nice little layer of it. You don't have to go too crazy with this stuff. Again, make sure that you don't get it on the face of the rotor or the pad itself. Once you got that nice and lubricated up, you're gonna go ahead and do the same thing on the outer pad.Once you've got those pads in, go ahead and take one more look and make sure you've got everything lubricated up where the pads are gonna sit. Now we're gonna go ahead and put our caliper back on. So, this is just going to slide right back over those new pads. You're probably going to have to push these little pins down here in order to get this into place. Once you got that done, go ahead and start the bolts. As always, I like to start these by hand, up on top as well. There you go. Once you've got those started, I'm gonna go ahead and take our 13-millimeter ratchet and our adjustable wrench here, again to hold that back side. I'm just gonna crank these down, get them nice and snug. There you go, and then you're ready to put your wheels back on.That's gonna wrap it up here for our review and install of the Proven Ground C&L Series Super Sport HD Front & Rear Brake and Rotor Pad Kit, fitting 2014 to 2018 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra 1500s. Thanks so much for watching. And remember, for all things Silverado and Sierra, be sure to keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Brake Rotor and Pad Kit Placement
|Front and Rear
|Brake Rotor Type
|Drilled and Slotted
|Brake Pad Material
Superior Construction. C&L manufactures its one-piece Brake Rotors from premium-grade cast iron castings. CNC machined, these Rotors are perfectly mill-balanced to prevent vibration, noise, and uneven wear. C&L Series rotors are then completed in a bright zinc electroplating treatment to provide good looks and protection against rust.
Cross-Drilled and Slotted. C&L Super Sport HD Rotors feature a cross-drilled and slotted design that helps to reduce brake fade by allowing hot gasses to easily escape through the vented holes. The slotted design will sweep away dust, water and debris to keep the surface of your brake pads cleaner for reliable bite every time you hit the pedal.
Cooling Vane Design. Unlike solid aftermarket brake rotors, these C&L Series Super Sport HD Rotors feature a vented vane design with an internal chamber structure. These vented vanes will allow hot gasses to escape easier to further improve the cooling performance of your brakes. Faster heat dissipation in turn will greatly increase your braking performance.
Ceramic Metallic Compound. C&L Super Sport HD Brake Pads are manufactured from a proprietary blend of ceramic and metallic fibers that will resist brake fade and will provide maximum braking bite. C&L Series Super Sport HD Ceramic pads are the logical choice for big brake stopping power without the price.
Clean and Quiet Operation. Featuring a rotor-friendly ceramic/metallic compound and an OE style slotted design, these C&L Series Brake Pads will produce significantly less dust when compared to your original stock pads. When C&L Series Brake Pads are combined with their matching Rotors, you will experience smooth, noise-free braking.Direct Fit Replacement Upgrade. C&L designed its Cross-Drilled / Slotted Rotor and Brake Pad Combo Kit to be a direct fit replacement upgrade for your Silverado's stock rotors and pads. Installation can normally be completed in under 4 hours with just basic hand tools using the existing calipers and hardware.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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