(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$64.99 (kit)FREE Shipping on orders over $75
MotoFab 2-Inch Rear Leveling Kit (19-21 Silverado 1500, Excluding Trail Boss)
Rough Country Forged Upper Control Arms for 2.50 to 3.50 or 7-Inch Lift (07-16 Silverado 1500 w/ Stock Cast Aluminum or Stock Cast Steel Control Arms)
Zone Offroad Rear Add-A-Leaf Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500)
Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com. Today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the MotoFab 3-Inch Front Leveling Kit, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. You should be checking this out if you're looking for three things, increasing ground clearance at the front end up to 3 inches, fitting larger wheels and tires on your truck comfortably up to 33 inches without rubbing, and if you're looking to eliminate factory rake leveling out your truck's appearance. Now, first, let's tackle that. Now, off the factory line, your truck has what's known as rake. Basically, your front suspension sits lower than your rear to help with towing and hauling applications. Now, a lot of guys out there may not like the look of that and wanna level things out a bit bringing the front end up to match the rear, in which case a 3-inch leveling kit at the front end with a factory rear suspension does just that. It eliminates the factory rake, evening that stands out, which I think in my opinion and in most people's opinion gives it a better appearance and an overall more aggressive look.Fitting larger wheels and tires on your Silverado does tend to be pretty difficult with the square wheel wells on a factory suspension. Fitting up to 33s, you do have some rubbing on a factory suspension without lifting it at all. Now, if you're looking to fit larger wheels and tires like that, a leveling kit is gonna be the way to go. It gives you just enough room at the front end to fit up to 33 inches and we'll show you guys that in just a little bit which is gonna make it so that you don't have any rubbing at full turn. Now, if you're looking to fit 35s on your truck, you are gonna need a larger lift kit, 6 inches or more in order to prevent any modifications necessary in order to prevent any rubbing. Now, if you are looking to put 33s on of factory suspension, there is some cutting involved. If you're looking to avoid that, a 3-inch leveling kit like this from MotoFab has plenty of room to make it work. In the shop today we have a 2013 Silverado behind me and we're gonna be showing you guys what this looks like with the factory suspension on factory 31-inch tires 275/5520s and we're gonna show you guys what it looks like with the 3-inch lift kit with those same factory tires and aftermarket 33s, to show you guys how they fit.Finally, ground clearance is also a factor. Now, the Silverado here like the one we have behind me isn't necessarily the most off-road vehicle with a factory suspension. Adding 3 inches of lift at the front end though allows you to go over some of the smaller obstacles on and off-road that you may not have otherwise been able to go over with the factory suspension. Three inches might not sound like a lot of room but 3 inches is gonna be enough to go over some of those smaller obstacles, especially when it comes to going over with that front lip. The factory front bumper has that air dam or air lip at the front end that does hang down pretty low and this can bring that up 3 inches. Physically, these spacers are CNC laser-cut steel with a black powder-coated finish on top to help with corrosion and rust resistance. The nice thing about the MotoFab kit here is that the threads are not powder-coated, which means you don't have to worry about cross-threading the bolts, they really take good care of manufacturing these products. And just know out of the box, the physical spacer measures in at 2 inches of material.That in combination with the changes in suspension geometry and spring compression will result in the final lift height of 3 inches. So, even though the kit is 2 inches physically, your final lift height at the front will be 3 inches. The price tag for this kit's going to come in right around 100 bucks, making them a pretty affordable mod at the front end. And sometimes you can even cut costs with some of the other options out there that may be aluminum or a more plastic material. Steel is definitely the way to go if you're looking for the most durable option out there, which does cost a little bit more, right around 100 bucks. Install, I'm giving two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It'll take you about two, maybe three hours from start to finish depending on your experience. Anybody can tackle this in the driveway at home with the right hand tools on deck and I'll walk you through that entire process here. The nice thing is you don't need a spring compressor or any specialty tools like that because the spacer kit for MotoFab sits at the top of your factory strut. No need to disassemble the struts, which means you don't need a spring compressor. So, that's gonna make life a lot easier. I'm gonna walk you through the process, what do you say we get started?Tools used in the install including air impact gun, cordless impact, a ratchet, 10-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and a couple of 21-millimeter deep sockets, Allen key and an 8-millimeter hex socket, extension, panel removal tool, a hammer, 15-millimeter wrench, and an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and a pry bar. First step of the uninstall is obviously pretty simple. Put your truck up in the air, whether it be a lift on the ground, make sure it's supported properly, pop the wheel off and grab an impact gun. We're gonna use a 10-millimeter socket here to remove the brake line or ABS line brackets from the hub itself and from the upper control arm. So let's do that next. All right, so here we're gonna start on the top of our hub assembly, use your 10 to get that off. And what I like to do is just pop that bracket off and put the 10-millimeter right back in so we don't lose it. Do the same thing for the upper control. Next up, we're gonna remove our sway bar end link. You're gonna put your 15-millimeter socket on the bolt head up top. I'm gonna use an extension on that along with a 15 wrench to hold the bolt on the bottom.Next up, we're gonna loosen and remove the upper control arm ball joint not connecting it to the knuckle. Now, in some cases, you'll try to loosen this up in the entire ball joint will spin with it. If that is the case, you can put an Allen key, the appropriate sized Allen key on the bottom of the stud here to hold it in place as you work it off, I recommend using an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. All right, what I like to do when I get to the bottom is just make sure the nut is on a couple of threads but just hang tight, we're gonna have to use a hammer to dislodge the upper control arm from the knuckle. All right. So, it's loose, but hand-tight. Keep that on there, grab a hammer. Now, when you hit this with a hammer, you do not wanna make contact with the upper control arms, you don't wanna make contact with the knuckle there, I'm gonna do it in the opposite side just because there's more room to work with. But just know that this on the opposite side is where I'm hitting. There you go. Now, what I recommend doing is using a pry bar, pry down on the upper control arm. Go in there with your fingers and take that nut off and carefully lift the upper control arm out of position, just like that.I'm gonna thread the nut back on so we don't lose it. Switch over to a 21-millimeter deep socket and let's get off our tie rod end. All right. Again, we may need a hammer to get that guy out. Next up, we're gonna remove the bottom strut bolts. There are two 15-millimeters bolt heads on the bottom. You guys are gonna see that coming out from the top there. I'm going underneath my 15 deep socket and getting them both off. Keep in mind when the second one comes out, this thing is gonna start to lower down, so just watch your head. Last step here is gonna be the three nuts at the top of the strut tower. Unfortunately, there is a harness connected to the front nut there, along with both in the back. Grab your panel removal tool and just pry those guys off. All right, one down. Repeat that for the other two in the back. Switching back to that 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench to get those three nuts off. All right, repeat that for the other two in the back. All right. At this point, the strut is free, you can pull it out.Next up, we basically have to assemble the spacer to the strut. Before we can actually mount it to the strut, we have to install the new studs. The new studs are gonna go through the bottom and stick up to the top and these are gonna help hold the entire strut assembly to the strut tower in the vehicle. Your factory studs are gonna hold the strut to the spacer. Grab the new studs, put them through the bigger holes on the bottom. I'm gonna thread them through by hand a couple of threads in each one of these larger holes. All right. Once you have those in a couple of threads, make sure they're not cross-threaded. Grab an 8-millimeter hex socket or Allen key and tighten those down. Now we can mount this to the strut. All right. It only goes on one way. So, you wanna just rotate it until it drops in, just like that. From there, grab the nylon lock nuts included in the kit, put them in the holes. I'm gonna use a 17-millimeter deep socket to help thread those guys onto the studs. Make sure you have all of them on before you tighten any down.Okay, from there, grab your impact gun, attach it to that 17, and tighten all three of those down. Perfect. Now, we can throw the entire assembly back in the truck. All right, next up, we can take the new assembly, put it right back through the truck, and mount it up to the strut tower. Grab one of the factory nuts and put it up on the new studs going through the strut tower. All right. Now, we can mount it back up to the bottom. Now that we have that back in, grab your factory 15-millimeter bolts and put them back through. All right. Just to quickly show you guys what I just did and explain that, so in some cases, the mount at the bottom of the strut will sit at a harsher angle than you need it to in order to line up flush with a lower control arm mount. Now, in order to get that right, I basically popped off this threaded clip and used a flat-head screwdriver to pry it into position while tightening the other bolt down. Once this bolt became tight, this automatically lines up so I can put the nut back on and tighten this one down like you normally would.All right. Next up, we have our truck lowered down to the ground, I'm basically gonna use a hydraulic floor jack to jack up the lower control arm to meet our upper control arm. Next, I'm taking the nut off of our upper control arm. I'm gonna lift up on our knuckle here. I'm gonna use a pry bar to pry down on the upper control arm to put the stud through the knuckle. Next, I'm grabbing my 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench to tighten down that nut. All right. Insert your tie rod end into the knuckle, put the nut on the bottom. This is another case where the ball joint might spin, in which case you may need a 10-millimeter socket to hold that stud steady. All right, I'm gonna use my wrench to hold the nut, 10-millimeter socket on the stud. All right. Next up, we can do our sway bar end link. You wanna slide the bushing on top first, follow it up with the nut, and then grab your 15 socket and wrench and tighten them down. Next up, we can reattach our ABS line bracket to the knuckle and to the upper control arm.Last couple of steps here, we're gonna reinstall the top three nuts on our strut tower. At this point, guys, you wanna make sure you're looking at the torque specs for each one of the bolts on it your specific year make and model Silverado, torque down all those bolts to spec. Of course you're gonna need to get alignment once this is done. But from here, repeat on the other side and you're good to go. That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the MotoFab 3-Inch Front Leveling Kit, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500, get yours right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Get a Lift. Use this MotoFab 3-inch Front Leveling Kit to put more room between your Silverado's front end and the ground. This complete kit provides a 3-inch front end raise, which not only imparts a rugged appearance but also protects against damage from off-roading debris. Unlike with other leveling kits, there’s no strut/coil disassembly required to install it.
Durable Construction. The spacers in this leveling kit are crafted from billet aluminum for incredible durability and damage resistance. They’re protected by a powder coat finish, which prevents scratch damage and keeps corrosion and rusting at bay.
Convenient Installation. Thanks to the straightforward installation process, it only takes around 2 hours to enhance your truck with this front leveling kit. Other than tools, everything you need to complete the installation is included in the box.
Limited Lifetime Warranty Included. Backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty. MotoFab warrants their products to be free from manufacturer's defects due to workmanship and material. The warranty applies only to the original purchaser which purchased the product. The limited lifetime warranty will not be transferrable. Some limitations may apply.
Application. This MotoFab-3 inch Front Leveling Kit fits all 2007-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models.
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Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
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