(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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ReadyLIFT Upper Control Arms for 2.25-Inch Leveling Kits (14-18 Silverado 1500)
Rough Country Forged Upper Control Arms for 2.50 to 3.50 or 7-Inch Lift (07-16 Silverado 1500 w/ Stock Cast Aluminum or Stock Cast Steel Control Arms)
Zone Offroad Rear Add-A-Leaf Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500)
It's Joe from AmericanTrucks and today we're gonna be taking a closer look at the MotoFab 3-inch Front Leveling Kit fitting all '07 to '18 Silverado 1500s, including the 2019 Silverado LD, '07 to '18 Sierra 1500s, including the Sierra Limited and it's going to be excluding the '14 to '18 Denali models. Now, this is gonna be a great option for any Silverado or Sierra owner looking to get the benefits of one of the most aggressive front spacer lifts available. And of course, this being a front spacer lift, it is also gonna come in at a really budget-friendly price tag.So, what do we have going on here? First things first, let's talk a little bit about build quality. And these are made out of CNC machine billet aluminum sealed in a nice black powder coat, which is gonna provide a nice little layer of protection against the elements. Now, these are gonna give you three inches of lift at the front that's gonna be the most aggressive in the category here. One thing I do wanna make a quick note of is if you take these out of the box, they're not going to exactly measure 3 inches. But once you have them installed due to suspension geometry, this is going to get you 3 inches of lift at the front. Now, before we dive into some of the benefits of that, we have to explain what the problem that this is going to be fixing is, and that is what's called rake. Now, out of the factory Silverados and Sierras, and this applies to not only that but old trucks in general, for that matter, they sit a little bit lower in the front, little bit higher in the rear. Now that's to counteract any added weight. If you have something heavy in the bed, you're towing a heavy payload, the truck would then level out and ride flat. Now, if you're not doing either those two things, often it's more of a looks thing. And by applying a front spacer lift like this, you're bringing the front up level with the rear.There are a lot of benefits that something like that is going to give you but the first one is going to be the looks. By eliminating that sort of nose down look it really does improve the side profile of any truck. There are some bigger benefits though, and they're going to apply a little bit to off-roading. First thing's first, you're gonna get 3 inches of lift and that is going to give you 3 inches of ground clearance, that is good in every situation. Also, if you have anything heavy up at the front like heavy-duty off-road steel bumpers, maybe a bumper with a winch that is heavy, it's gonna add a little bit of sag to the front end of again, any truck out there, and by applying something like this to the front, you can help correct that a little bit. Something like this is also going to allow you to run some bigger tires, factory size and you're looking at that right now, that's gonna be 265-65-18 and that equates to about 31.6 inches. This is also going to allow you to comfortably fit a 33. I would stay away from the 35s and that's not due to the lift, that's more of the wheel wells, you can see they're really boxy. The 33 is gonna fill that out pretty nicely, 35 that's gonna be limited just by the body of the truck. The lift would fit it if it wasn't for those boxy the wheel wells, that's going to apply to any 3-inch front leveling kit for these generation trucks.Pricing, it's gonna be really, really budget-friendly. We're only looking about 75 bucks for the set here. Obviously that is not a lot to pay and you're getting a lot of off-road benefits that are gonna help you in any off-road situation. And MotoFab even throws in a limited lifetime warranty.Before we move on to the install here, I do just wanna make a really quick note about fitment. I mentioned earlier these are gonna fit '07 to '18 Silverado. These are also gonna fit '07 to '18 Sierra, with the exception being '14 to '18 Denalis. They do have mag ride and that doesn't take well to spacer kits like these. Also for 2019 truck owners out there, this is gonna fit the third gen Silverado and Sierra. So, that's gonna be the Silverado LD and the Sierra Limited. This will work just fine on those trucks. They were redesigned for the fourth gen in 2019, and the third and fourth gen trucks were released alongside each other. So, as long as you have those two, the Sierra Limited and the Silverado LD, this will just work fine.So, now let's get to the good stuff. Let me show you how to get this on your truck. First things first, this is gonna be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, no cutting or modification, no spring compressor, however, we are gonna be seriously tearing apart our suspension here and for that, you better have the toolbox ready. Should take you about four to six hours depending on how fast you're moving along. But with that said, let me show you what tools you'll need and how it's done.Tools we use for this install will include somewhere else penetrate like PB B'laster, an impact or two, trim panel removal tool, ratchet, pry bar, of course some safety glasses, a socket set ranging from 22 millimeters all the way down to 10 millimeters, an 8-millimeter Allen key, 18 and 15-millimeter ratcheting wrenches will help you a ton. We also used the open-ended 15-millimeter wrench and last but not least, a hammer.So, first step for our install here, you wanna get your truck jacked up safely, we're gonna be doing a little bit of work under the suspension. So, you definitely wanna make sure you're safe about that, use jack stands if you need to. If you're on a lift like ours, you'll be just fine. Secondly, we're gonna wanna get the wheel off, 22-millimeter socket for the lug nuts, you're gonna put that aside and what I did before I touched anything, is I went ahead and dosed this with a nice healthy squirt of rough penetrant, we used PB B'laster in our case. This truck is a little bit rusty so you'll see what that's like. If your truck is a little bit older, you're gonna be dealing with something that looks a little bit like this. And now we can start on the actual wrench turning, 10-millimeter socket on the impact gun, we're gonna disconnect some of our brake line brackets and ABS line brackets.First one is right behind the brake rotor, that big bracket right there. We can flip that off to the side, I'm just gonna thread that 10-millimeter bolt back in for safekeeping. And the second one is gonna be back here on the upper control arm, we're gonna do the same thing. And with that out of the way, we can go ahead and start on the big stuff. The first thing we're gonna do is our tie rod, 21-millimeter socket for the nut on there. We're gonna try to get this out, hopefully that ball joint doesn't spin on us. If so, we can hold this still with a 10-millimeter wrench. So, as you can see, the ball joint is still stuck in that collar. So, what I'm gonna do, is thread the nut back on finger tight. That's just gonna protect the threads while we do what we're gonna do next, which is gonna be to grab the hammer, we're gonna try to shock that taper loose. And that'll pop right out.So, in this shot, you can see our next step. Here is our sway bar. There's a 15-millimeter nut on top and this big bolt goes all the way through this plastic piece. It's got a 15-millimeter bolt head on the bottom. Now, I hit this with a healthy dose of rust penetrant, you're gonna need it because this one can put up a fight. If you're lucky, you might be able to spin this with the impact, we'll see. No dice as you saw there. So, what we're gonna do is we're gonna grab the ratcheting wrench and we're gonna work this loose. This is gonna take a little bit of a while. And go ahead and pull that nut off at the top, and gonna go ahead and throw that aside. Then what's gonna come next is the bolt and that'll pull right out the bottom like that. And then this plastic piece in the middle, and get rid of that as well. And one more thing just to make sure we don't lose it, this rubber bushing is kind of stuck on the sway bar at the top, so I'm just gonna pry that off. So, these are the two 15-millimeter bolts that hold the strut assembly to the lower control arm. We're gonna remove those next, again, a nice healthy dose of rust penetrant will do you really well right here. The next thing we're gonna remove is this 18-millimeter nut right here, this is gonna hold the upper control arm to the knuckle. And we're probably gonna do the same exact thing we just did with the tie rod to break this ball joint loose. So, now we have that nut removed, we're gonna thread it back on a couple threads here. Now, not only is this to protect the threads while we unseat that ball joint with the hammer, but this upper control arm is gonna wanna spring up and this nut is going to catch it. So, you just saw it snap loose. What we're gonna do is it's still under a little bit of tension. Just take the pry bar, pull down on the upper control arm, then we can release that nut and all the tension will be released as soon as we get this pry bar out there, like so.So, that's the hard part removed, getting that back together is gonna be the second hard part, but obviously, we need to get our spacer in first and our strut assembly is still held onto the bucket by some 18-millimeter nuts. You can see them if I push that back up at the top here, they do have some plastic clips holding on that wiring harness. So, what I'm gonna do is just take the trim panel tool, get those out of the way. There's another one back here. Now, that they're gone, we can use the ratcheting wrench to remove those nuts. Just a helpful tip with these, you want to start with the two that are at the back and let this front one here, the easiest one to get at just hold the weight and that way, you can kind of spin these off with your fingers once you get them loose, since that nut up at the front has all the weight. One down, one on the other side. And we have one left, which is the front one. You're gonna see what I mean, that's basically carrying the whole weight of the strut assembly, so it's gonna be a little bit of a bear to turn this all the way and it's easier to have that on the front one than it is one of the back ones that are harder to reach. It's starting to loosen up now, so I'm gonna grab the strut assembly and catch it as this nut comes off. Then we can pull that away from the truck.So, now that we have the strut assembly off of our truck, we actually get to do the easiest part of the install which is actually installing the spacer. Now, there's only one way this could go on to these three studs right here. So, let's go ahead and try to line it up, spin it around if it doesn't quite line up. Now, we can take these three 17-millimeter nylock nuts included in the kit. We're just going to thread the spacer onto the studs on top of the strut assembly. So, now that we have those started on the threads, we're gonna use this 17-millimeter thin wall socket, the impact sockets are a little bit too big to get into those holes. If you're using this on a ratchet, you'll be just fine. However, if you're using this on the impact gun like I'm about to be, make sure you wear a pair of these.So, now we're gonna head back to the truck and as you probably gathered, this is going to be flipped 180. So, we're gonna go ahead and drop the strut assembly in flipped 180 and we're gonna get the bottom started before we get the top started and you're gonna see how I do that. That's gonna go in there like so, I like to leave the top sort of out of the bucket like that, makes it a little bit easier to line up the bottom like that. And go ahead and get our 15-mil bolt started. And once you put one thread on that, take it up a little bit, again 15-millimeter socket, you can see it pop out the top of that nut clip, that is fine. We're gonna get the other side too and snug that down just a hair, that is looking good, then we can move back to the top. So, why I like to do it in that order is because this bushing at the bottom here is a little bit tilted. Since we flipped this 180, it's gonna be angled the opposite way and basically fighting you but once you get that started, you can go ahead and just use the leverage on the strut assembly itself to get that seated in the bucket like so. Then we're gonna use these bolts that come in the kit, they tighten down with an 8-millimeter Allen key to secure the spacer to the bucket. That's one in, get the other two in then we can tighten that down. Now I have my Allen key on a fancy ratchet like this. If you don't have that, unfortunately, you will just have to use the 8-millimeter Allen key but if you have something like this, it makes really quick work of these. Now that the top is done, we could jump back down to the bottom and tighten down these two 15-millimeter bolts that hold the strut assembly to the lower control arm. And you can kind of see how that spun into place. That's exactly why I keep the top out of the bucket until everything is started.So, now we have our strut assembly completely installed, we got one more hard part to take care of, and that is the upper control arm ball joint to the knuckle. Now, what we're gonna have to do here, is we're gonna get the pry bar in on the coils, we're gonna pry down on that to get that single thread through. We're going to catch that on the bottom side with an 18-millimeter nut just like that. Another thing to note is this ABS line. This does need to be over top of this upper control arm here. So, make sure you're aware of where this is before you tighten anything down. Now once you have a few threads, you can go ahead and tighten that ball joint nut all the way down. Again, 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench for this one. The rest of this is going to be really, really easy, just basically putting the suspension back together. We're gonna start with our tie rod and that's gonna slip into that collar right there. 21-millimeter nut is gonna thread right onto that and if you need to hold this ball joint still, you got a 10-millimeter end right here.Before we do our sway bar end link, now would be a good time to get the other side caught up in the front. Since those two are connected with the sway bar, it's easier to leave this off until you're completely done. We're gonna do that off-camera. But for right now we're going to put that plastic separator in, gonna put our bolt up through on top and go one more bushing. And then last but not least the 15-millimeter nut. Now, last but not least, and go ahead and bolt back down our brake and ABS line brackets.Now a few hours and some dirty hands later, this guy is completely wrapped up. You wanna make sure everything is nice and tight. Again hit the same thing over on the other side and that is gonna do it, take your truck for a good alignment and you'll be all set. That's gonna do it for me. It's also gonna do it for the MotoFab 3-inch Front Leveling Kit fitting all '07 to '18 Silverado and Sierra 1500s. Again guys, thank you for watching. Keep it right here at AmericanTrucks for all things Chevy.
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Features, Description, Specs & Installation
Get a Lift. Use this MotoFab 3-inch Front Leveling Kit to put more room between your Silverado's front end and the ground. This complete kit provides a 3-inch front end raise, which not only imparts a rugged appearance but also protects against damage from off-roading debris. Unlike with other leveling kits, there’s no strut/coil disassembly required to install it.
Durable Construction. The spacers in this leveling kit are crafted from billet aluminum for incredible durability and damage resistance. They’re protected by a powder coat finish, which prevents scratch damage and keeps corrosion and rusting at bay.
Convenient Installation. Thanks to the straightforward installation process, it only takes around 2 hours to enhance your truck with this front leveling kit. Other than tools, everything you need to complete the installation is included in the box.
Limited Lifetime Warranty Included. Backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty. MotoFab warrants their products to be free from manufacturer's defects due to workmanship and material. The warranty applies only to the original purchaser which purchased the product. The limited lifetime warranty will not be transferrable. Some limitations may apply.
Application. This MotoFab-3 inch Front Leveling Kit fits all 2007-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models.
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Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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