(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
$62.90 (kit)FREE Shipping on orders over $75
Hey, guys, Joe from AmericanTrucks. And today we're gonna be working with the MotoFab 3-inch Front Leveling Kit, fitting all '04 to '13 two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive F150s, excluding the Raptors. Now, something like this is going to be perfect for frankly any F150 owner out there that's looking to get some better overall off-road performance, improve on the looks of their truck all at a budget-friendly price. These are made out of CNC machined billet aluminum. They feature that awesome black powder coating, which serves as layer protection from the elements. They're going to sit right on top of the front struts. And all in all, they're gonna give us 3 inches of front lift. Now, one of the biggest reasons for buying something like this is to dial out what's called rake. Now, what that means is the front of the trucks and all F150s, and trucks in general for that matter, just sit a little bit lower up front than they do in the rear. Now, that's to dial out any extra added weight in the bed. If you're towing something, the truck would then level out. If you're not doing either of those things, often it's more of a looks thing. This is definitely gonna help bring the front level with the rear of your truck and improve the looks greatly. Now, on top of bringing the front up to match the level of the rear and improving the looks like that, we're also going to be able to fit some bigger tires once our lift is installed. We have stock 32s on right now. We put some 35s on there, and they did clear in all situations on level ground.If you do plan on doing any serious off-roading though, just a word of warning, that might hit under extreme articulation, but I'm sure some plastic cutting could dial that out. Now, speaking about off-roading, most of the guys that do that do need some heavy equipment, such as off-road front bumpers, winch bumpers, grille guards, that sort of stuff, but those things are big and heavy. That's added weight to the front of your truck, more pressure on the springs, compressing them a little bit, which causes the nose of the truck to droop. Something like this can help dial that out as well and bring the truck up to that factory ride height when you have some extra weight added up front. Now, say your truck is in the stock configuration like this one is, this is gonna bring us higher than that factory ride height. And with that, we're gonna dial up that rake again. We're gonna be able to fit those 35. And we're also going to get a little bit of clearance out of that. In MotoFab's lineup, this is pretty much going to be the end-all-be-all of what you can get out of a spacer lift. This is going to be your 3-inch. If you wanted to step it down a little bit, MotoFab also offers a 2-and-1/2, 2-inch, and 1-and-1/2-inch. Now, let's say you like the 3-inch up front but you wanted to hit the rear as well, MotoFab also sells the 3-inch with a 2-inch lift block for the rear to help bring the rear up too. If that was too extreme though, MotoFab also sells another kit, which is going to be that 2 and 1/2 in the front and the 1 and 1/2 in the rear.That'll put you right at that middle ground in terms of lift. It won't be as extreme as this, but you'll definitely see those benefits just not to the extreme. Pricing through the set here is going to come in right around 60 bucks. And at that price, you do get a lot. Again, you get to dial out that rake, bigger tires, more clearance, dial out any extra added weight in the front end, overall better off-road performance. Sixty bucks is a small price to pay for all of those benefits. Also included in that is going to be a limited lifetime warranty from MotoFab. Install here is going to be pretty tough. We're going to be seriously digging into the suspension components on our F150 today, easily gets a three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It should take you two, three hours to tear apart the front suspension of your truck. So without any further ado, let me show you what tools you'll need and how it's done. Tools required for this install are going to be an impact or two, ratchet, torque wrench, pry bar, breaker bar, 15 and 18-millimeter wrenches, ratcheting does help a lot, flathead screwdriver, a socket set ranging from 30 millimeters all the way down to 8 millimeters, 8 and 5-millimeter Allen keys. I have mine on sockets just to speed things up a little bit, a U-joint, dead blow, hammer, vacuum pump, vice grip, caliper, PB B'laster is almost a must, brake caliper hanger. And not pictured in this shot if you plan on doing this on the ground, you'll need a jack and jack stands.So the first step for our install here, and this is pretty much gonna go for any lift kit, we're gonna loosen up some of our brake line brackets with a 10 and 8-millimeter socket. We don't wanna stress our brake lines or ABS lines when we're disassembling our suspension up here. That would be very bad. We're gonna start with this bracket. This bolt right here is a 10. And the one right next to it is gonna be an 8. And just for safekeeping, I'm gonna thread those right back in so I don't lose them during our install. You'll get that one out of the way. And this bracket at the top is just gonna be held on with a 10-millimeter bolt. And after that, the first actual suspension component we're gonna take off is the tie rod. It's held on with this 21-millimeter nut. Now, this ball joint for the tie rod is seized. Yours might not be, but most likely it's exactly like ours is right here. And you're gonna see us do this for pretty much all the ball joints on this truck. Being a 2013, this is probably an accurate representation of what you'll have to go through to get this taken apart. I'm just gonna thread the nut on finger-tight here. That's just gonna protect the threads. And what we're gonna do next is shock this collar with a hammer in order to release the taper on that ball joint. Still stuck. And you might have solid pop loose there, but now we're looking pretty good. We're gonna remove our nut and pull out our tie rod. Next, we're gonna remove our brake caliper and rotor. The caliper is held on by these 2 21-millimeter nuts right here.Now, while we're back here, we're also gonna remove this vacuum hose for our IWE actuator as well. And that's just gonna pull straight off. And then we're gonna loosen up those two bolts. Now, we're just gonna take the caliper off the rotor here. I'm just gonna pry up. And you don't wanna leave this dangled. As you can see, I have our yellow brake caliber hook already ready to go in the back. And I'm just gonna drop that right on there and make sure this line isn't stressed at all. Now, with the caliper off the rotor, you should be able to just pull this off the lug studs. Now, we're gonna stay with the brakes for a couple of more steps here. The next thing that has to come off is this dust shield. It's held on with three 8-millimeter bolts. Now, we have to disconnect this wheel speed sensor here. This bolt takes a 5-millimeter Allen key. Now, with that bolt removed, you can just pull up gently on the sensor, and it should pop right out. Next up is going to be our sway bar here. Now, in order to hold this ball joint still, I'm going to hold the stud portion with an 8-millimeter socket, and I'm gonna turn the nut with an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. And just give it those last couple. Now it's off. Threads are okay, and the sway bar is removed. Now, we get to the big stuff, the removal of this suspension knuckle here. It's held on to the upper control arm with this ball joint, which secures with a 21-millimeter nut. We're gonna back that off, screw it back on finger-tight and knock this collar here with a hammer in order to release the taper on that ball joint, just like we did with the tie rod. Now, before we remove that one, we're actually going to jump down and do the lower ball joint on that knuckle as well.Leaving this like this just gives us something to fight against as we're hitting that with a hammer. And this nut is a 24-millimeter. Now, just to help me out a little bit here, I'm just going to apply some rust penetrant, PB B'laster, try to loosen that up a little bit. So, now, there's one last thing holding the knuckle on here, and it's a 13-millimeter nut under this dust cap. So we're gonna get a flathead screwdriver and a hammer and just work our way around that in order to pop it off. So, now, we get to the weird part here, and this is going to be handling our IWE actuator. This is basically what puts the truck in and out of four-wheel drive, and it's driven all vacuum from the engine. Now, we already disconnected that vacuum hose earlier, and there's no vacuum drawn on our hub here. And to get these apart, we're gonna have to draw a vacuum on it. So what we're going to do is go back behind the knuckle, we're going to attach this hose to the larger of the two nipples back there. We're gonna draw 24 inches of vacuum. Once we have that done, we're gonna put this aside. And as that vacuum is still pulled, we're gonna remove this 13-millimeter nut here. And basically, that keeps it from being damaged in the process of removal. Okay. So, now, to know you have enough vacuum drawn, you should be able to spin this freely. If you don't have enough vacuum drawn, four-wheel drive will basically be engaged, and you'll be spinning the axle too. It'll be a little bit harder to turn. But once this spins freely, you know you're good to go. You can remove that 13-millimeter nut. Now, we still have vacuum drawn.We're just going to go back, remove the nuts on our ball joints and remove our knuckle. So now we just have to take out our strut assembly, which is gonna be a lot easier with all that stuff removed. There's 3 15-millimeter nuts up top. I'm gonna use a socket and the air ratchet to get those removed. Now, the last one is a little bit far back in there. It's a little tough to get to with the air ratchet. So I'm just gonna use the 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench to loosen that up. Now, that brings us to the bottom of the strut assembly. And this is a pretty big bolt, but it is only one. For the bolt side, we're gonna be using a 27-millimeter socket. I have that on the breaker bar. And for the nut side, we are going to be using a 30-millimeter socket, and that's gonna be on the impact. And then we can pull that out. And after that, pry down on the lower control arm here with a pry bar, and the strut assembly should come right out. And finally, we have the strut assembly out of our truck. The rest of that stuff is uninstalled. We can now move on to installing our product here, and this is going to be painfully easy. All we're gonna do is take the spacer and put it on the three studs, and make sure everything lines up. Now, once that's in place, all we have to do is secure with these 3 17-millimeter nyloc nuts. Now, the impact sockets are a little bit too thick to fit in these holes here. The diameter is just too big. You can't get in there to the nut. So I just have to use the regular old thin wall 17-millimeter to tighten those down. Now, we can put that right back in. You will have to do a 180 with this.Make sure the holes on top of our spacer line up with the holes in the bucket. Pry down on lower control arm. Drop that right in place. Now, on top, you do have new hardware to install. These aren't gonna be pressed-in studs. They're just gonna drop right through the bucket and into our spacer. This makes it a little bit easier obviously than if they were pressed in. It's not going to be as tall on the top of our strut assembly. Now, we're just gonna take an 8-millimeter Allen key and tighten down those three bolts. I have mine on the ratchet just to speed things up here. Obviously, these don't need to be torqued too hard, or they wouldn't be Allen bolts. Now, we can pry down on the lower control arm one last time, and we're just gonna get our bottom bolt seated. Then we're going to secure that with the 30-millimeter nut and tighten that down. Now, we can reinstall our knuckle to that lower ball joint using a 24-millimeter nut. So, now, we're going to reinstall our axle. In order to make that reach, you're probably gonna need some upward pressure on the lower control arm, and then you can draw your 24 inches of vacuum, and put that aside. And, now, just gonna get our axle threads to poke through right here in the hub. Now, once you feel the axle is seated in there, you can give that a measurement. You wanna make sure that you have at least 15 and 1/2 inches of threads there. Ours was about 16 and 1/2 before I touched the caliper.But once you have that, you thread it on your 13-millimeter nut. We're gonna tighten this to 30 foot-pounds. It's at this point we can call that installed. I'm just gonna reinstall the dust cap by lining it up and giving it a couple of taps with the dead blow. Now, we're going to do our upper ball joint. And to get that done, we're just gonna take a pry bar or two. I'm gonna pull down on that. Now, I bottomed out that one. I'm just gonna walk down with another pry bar. And we're gonna thread on our 21-millimeter nut from earlier. Next, we're going to do our sway bar. And just by threading that on hand-tight, it's pretty much as much as I can go with my fingers, and there's not enough for the 8-millimeter socket on top. So we're just gonna come in with the vice grips. Hold that still. And we're gonna try to get a little more out of that. Pretty good. Now, we can do this the right way with the 8-millimeter socket. Next, we can reinstall our wheel speed sensor. And that's just gonna go down into the knuckle, and that secures with the 5-millimeter Allen key bolt. Next, we can reinstall our dust shield. Again, this takes three 8-millimeter bolts. After that, we can put our rotor on the studs. And just to hold this still while we put the caliper on, I'm just gonna thread on a lug nut so it doesn't slide off like that. And now we can unhook our caliper and push that onto our rotor and secure with the 2 21-millimeter bolts.And while we're back here, we're going to reinstall the vacuum hoses we uninstalled earlier and tighten down those 2 21-millimeter bolts. Now, we can reinstall our tie rod. We're gonna put it in the collar, and then we can tighten that down with a 21-millimeter nut. And homestretch here, we can reinstall all of our brackets. I already have them started here. Again, this guy for the wheel speed sensor is gonna be an 8-millimeter. Moving up a little bit, this brake line bracket is going to be a 10-millimeter. And, lastly, the one up top is a 10-millimeter as well. Guys, that is pretty much gonna do it for the install. Two things I wanna go over at the end here. It's a good idea to drive around for about 500 miles, come back to this, make sure everything is still tightened down. And, most importantly, take your truck for a good alignment. But that's gonna do it for my review and install of the MotoFab 3-inch Front Leveling Kit, fitting all '04 to '13 two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive F150s, excluding the Raptor models. Thank you for watching. I'm Joe. Make sure you subscribe for more videos like this one. And as always, keep it right here at AmericanTrucks for all things F150.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Hassle-Free Leveling Kit. The MotoFab 3 in. Front Leveling Kit is specially designed to provide a true 3 inch rise to your F-150’s front. This makes it ideal to eliminate the nose-down rake from factory and due to heavy equipment and accessories like bumpers and winches. Additionally, the heavy duty strut spacers are a simple and safe way to level your truck and don’t involve any cutting or drilling.
Billet Aluminum Strut Spacers. These strut spacers are precisely machined using state-of-the-art CNC equipment. And since they’re made from solid billet aluminum, there’s no risk of them cracking over time, unlike welded metal strut spacers. Furthermore, they’re powder-coated black to match your suspension and provide additional protection.
Straightforward Installation. The 3 in. Front Leveling Kit is designed and built to be application-specific and doesn’t require any drilling or even disassembling the strut/coilover.
Includes Lifetime Limited Warranty. MotoFab provides their customers with a 100% satisfaction guarantee and a lifetime warranty for the 3 in. Front Leveling Kit.
Application. The MotoFab 3 in. Front Leveling Kit is designed to fit 2004 to 2013 Ford F-150 2WD and 4WD models, excluding Raptors.
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Fitment: 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
May 12, 2020
It's what I ordered!
Completely satisfied with my purchase, my husband loved it!Helpful (0)
May 06, 2020
Easy to install, great ride! Installed these outside in the driveway in just a couple hours, on a nice cool day. Prior warning it’ll take two people to reattach upper ball joint (one will have to really force down the upper control arm with a pry bar). Altogether a relatively easy install.Helpful (0)
April 12, 2020
This leveling kit totally changed the look/stance of my truck!!! Totally recommend this for anyone who wants to eliminate that front end dip!! ThanksHelpful (1)
April 11, 2020
Best investment under 100 dollars!
The three inch leveling kit not only lifted the front of my truck, but made it look like a totally different vehicle. After the install I was able to tuck 35’s with minor trimming of plastic and no rubbing! I highly recommend this option for anyone who is trying to level the front of their truckHelpful (0)
February 12, 2020
3in leveling kit
I personally love the kit really takes away the factory rake. The stance on the truck really didn’t change but the truck still looks great regardless.Helpful (0)
May 11, 2019
Perfect fit for what I wanted to do. Make sure you have a strut spring compress tool of some sort. This is needed for reinstallation of the strut due to it being 3 inches longer. 2012 F150 4x4 Harley Davidson EditionHelpful (2)
January 17, 2019
Has much better stance. Thank you for supplying these parts!Helpful (1)
August 30, 2018
MOTOFAB 3 in. Level 04 F150 Supercrew
Good product. Wasnt the easiest to install but the truck looks good now sitting level.Helpful (8)
May 17, 2018
MotoFab 3" Leveling Kit
Pretty simple install and easy to follow instructions. The only thing they don't tell you in the instructions is that you have to swap the side the struts are on. But you'll figure it out after a couple minutes of head scratching. Other than that, no complaints.Helpful (12)
May 01, 2018
Good quality product
Good quality product but after installing and doing some research I discovered that a 3 inch strut spacer is pushing it. This big of a spacer causes the control arms, ball joints, and tie rods to sit at a pretty nasty angle. If I had to do it again I would go with a smaller leveling kit or a suspension lift if it was needed to clear wheels and tires.Helpful (21)
Do you need to drop your front differential for this product to fit?
The differential does not need to be dropped for proper fitment.
Can I run this 3” level without worrying about anything else? Will it stress the ball joints or upper control or lower control arm? I plan on putting 35/12.50r22 tires on so I don’t know if it’s enough for it not to rub.
This can indeed be installed without any further modification, however, this is not nearly tall enough to fit tires that large. We would suggest at least a 3 inch lift kit, not just a leveling kit.
I have a 2012 f150 4x4 with factor 18 inch wheels can I run a 315x12.5 without rubbing
With stock wheels you will most likely still rub
If I buy this will the front be leveled wit the back or the truck or will the front set higher than the back
This is designed to make your truck sit level.
How thick is the actual spacer itself?
The spacer is 3 inches thick.
This MotoFab 3 in. Front Leveling Kit will not fit 2018 models.
You can expect this once installed yes.
(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box