(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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So, if you own a '07 to '18 Silverado or Sierra 1500 and you want hands down the most affordable method of getting your truck up to three inches of lift in the front, you want to level everything out, and you wanna easily fit up to 33-inch tires, then you should be checking out the MotoFab three-inch front and one-inch rear leveling kit. At just over the $100 price point, there will be no other options available that are less expensive than this lift/leveling kit and that's for a pretty simple reason. It is not a full suspension lift kit. We're still retaining all of our factory suspension components. We're simply adding a couple of spacers up front to the struts and we're also adding a couple of lift blocks out back underneath the axle. Now, even though this is very affordable, that's not to say it's a cheap lift. You're getting some very high-quality aluminum spacers up front, they have a nice black powder coat finish, and you get heavy-duty steel lift blocks out back, again, with a nice black powder coat finish on them. You'll never have to worry about these things rusting or corroding or compressing over time because they are made of metal. They do provide new studs for the top hat of the strut and out back, they actually have little centering pins to ensure that the lift blocks install very easily. For that reason, I'm gonna give the install a modest two out of three wrenches on my difficulty meter. It should take you about two to four hours at home if you're doing this in the driveway, maybe a little bit quicker if you're doing this on a lift like we're about to do.Now, as far as wheel and tire clearance, you can see that we were able to fit 33s up there. We had no issues with rubbing, but we went ahead and we tried 35-inch tires and well, we do get rubbing up front in the front end rear. It's nothing too crazy, but you can definitely feel it. And if you do put your wheels at full lock with any suspension articulation with a spacer lift like this, well, the rubbing will be a little bit worse. I can't speak to exactly what you'd have to do to make those tires fit with this kind of leveling kit, but you'd definitely have to do a lot of trimming up front. Basically, if you want 35s, I would look at a full pole suspension lift. That's gonna be a lot more expensive and you'd probably have to get a lift that's something crazy like six or seven inches or maybe even more. So, again, if you want one of the least expensive ways to lift your truck, you wanna level everything out, and you wanna fit 33s, go ahead and pull the trigger on the MotoFab leveling kit. I'll show you that install step by step. And I'll show you exactly what tools you need for the front and rear. You will need a standard drive ratchet. You'll also need a 10, 15, 17, 18, 19, and 21-millimeter socket, and a 22-millimeter deep socket. I would strongly recommend you be safe and have deep sockets for all of these. You'll also need a 15, 18, and 13/16 wrench. And lastly, you'll need a 6-millimeter Allen key. Now, optional, but very helpful tools include a swivel socket, an extension, a breaker bar, a pry bar, an air gun, and a hammer.All right. So, we're starting up front with our coil spacers. Before we do anything, we wanna remove some weight here on the steering knuckle. To do that, we're gonna remove our caliper. Now, the caliper is held on with two 19-millimeter bolts, so we'll need a 19-millimeter socket. And if you haven't done your brakes in a while or you've never really touched them in the first place, you'll probably need a pry bar to actually get that caliper off of there. All right. Now, we that got our caliper out of the way and hung up on that bracket up there, we're gonna disconnect the end link for our sway bar. It's gonna make it easier on both sides. So, we're going to hold the nut up here with the 15-millimeter wrench and we're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket to loosen it. All right. Next, we're gonna disconnect our tie rod end here. You'll need a 13/16 wrench to hold on to the nut itself, and then you're actually gonna go ahead and spin the stud using a 10-millimeter deep socket. Now, if the stud doesn't spin, it does help to break the nut loose first. And if you get really lucky, you can actually just spin the nut, but if it does start spinning, you'll need that 10-millimeter socket. Now, once you got your tie rod end removed, you can disconnect the bolts securing the strut to the lower control arm. You'll need a 15-millimeter socket for both of these. All right. Next, we're gonna tackle our upper ball joint here. This nut is an 18-millimeter nut. You will need a deep socket and you'll probably need a big breaker bar to at least get it loose. It is gonna be very tight. It's torqued to a relatively high amount of pound-feet. All right. Now we're getting lucky here. We're able to use our deep socket on this guy, but if the stud starts spinning on the upper ball joint like it might on your tie rod end, what you'll need is an Allen key for the stud here, and you'll need an actual 18-millimeter wrench to get the nut off. But we're getting lucky, so we can just use our regular hand ratchet. All right. Once you got that nut free, now comes the fun part. You wanna be careful here. You have to smack the boss on the knuckle with a hammer and that's gonna free up that upper control arm and get that stud out of there. All right. Next, we're gonna loosen the nuts that secure the top of the strut to our vehicle. You'll need an 18-millimeter wrench for these. It is a very tight fit. You might not be able to get a socket in there. So, I highly recommend getting a ratcheting wrench like I'm using. All right. Now, one of these studs and one of these nuts might have some electrical connections on there. It's just a little plastic fitting. You just got to squeeze it off with your hands. All right. We removed those three nuts. Now, we can actually remove our strut. Now, you might've noticed earlier we did break one of the bolts that secures the strut to the lower control arm. That's the only threaded into the speed clips so that's fine. We'll take care of that and we'll swap that out later. But at any rate, you can see here that the end of our sway bar link has separated. That's a good thing. We want that to do that. We want to get enough play in here. If it's a little bit of a tight fit, then you'll need a little bit of a pry bar. Go ahead and put it in the bottom of the lower control arm. Go ahead and put some pressure on it. You can see we've got plenty of play there with the control arms and the rubber bushings. Go ahead and pull that strut out carefully All right. We have our strut removed. Now we can install our spacer. Obviously, before you throw the strut in place, you got to make sure you got those new studs on there. To install these guys, you'll need a 5/16 Allen key or Allen head socket as you can see on my impact gun here. All right. Once you got the studs on there, you can throw the spacer on top of your original studs of the strut itself. Now the spacer's holes are set up in such a way that it only fits in one specific direction, but once you figure out which direction that is, you'll need to the nylon locking nuts provided in the kit and in order to tighten those down, you will need a 17-millimeter socket. All right. We got our spacer in place, but before we actually install our strut, we gotta do a little bit more work to it. When you install the spacer, you actually changed the orientation of the strut and how it faces vertically by 180 degrees. That means that you're actually changing the orientation of these tongues. These tongues are supposed to line up with the holes in the lower control arm where we removed those two bolts earlier. So, if you have a bench vise handy, what you wanna do is actually secure these tongues to that bench vise, wrap them up so you don't get them too scratched up or anything and you're actually gonna use the entire strut assembly as a lever. You're gonna pull on it or push, you wanna rotate these about 45 degrees. That way they line up with the holes in the lower control arm making it a lot easier to get those bolts in place. So, I'll show you guys how it's done. All right. So, we cranked down on the bushings here, we got a little bit of movement outside of this guy, we put our speed clips back in place, and we grabbed a replacement bolt for the one that we broke earlier. Pretty simple. We're gonna throw the strut back in the same location that we removed it from earlier. We're gonna get those bottom bolts in the bottom of the strut first, tighten those down. Then if we need to, we'll get a little bit of leverage on our lower control arm. Using a pry bar, we'll get the studs in top and then we'll tighten those down with those original factory nuts. All right. So, we got our bottom bolts in here. We got our three studs lined up in the top. We're gonna secure those using our factory nuts. And again, to tighten those down, you'll need that 18-millimeter wrench. All right. Now that we've got our strut reinstalled, we're gonna install the nut here on our tie rod end and tighten that guy down. Again, you will need a 13/16 wrench and you'll need a 10-millimeter deep socket to actually spin this stud. All right. Next, we're gonna get our upper control arm and our ball joint inside the boss on our knuckle here. I got my buddy, Tony, helping me because you need three hands to do this. So, he's gonna push down on this guy with my pry bar and I'm gonna go ahead and get that nut back on there. Then we'll tighten everything down. Excellent. Perfect. Okay. All right. Now we're gonna tighten down our sway bar end link. Again, 15-millimeter wrench and socket. All right. Everything is tightened down. We can finally throw our caliper back in place and again, the two bolts that secure the caliper are 19-millimeter heads, so you'll need that 19-millimeter socket that we started off in the beginning with. All right. So, we've got our calipers in place, everything is buttoned up up front here. Go ahead and double check all your studs, bolts, and nuts, and things like that. Make sure everything is nice and tight. Once you've got the spacers in both sides, we're gonna go ahead and throw our truck up in the air and I'll show you guys how to tackle those rear spacers as well. All right. So, we're in the back here, we've got our truck up in the air. We have our axle supported with some pole jacks. So, you also wanna have a friend with you because the axle is very heavy and what we're about to do is essentially disconnect it from the truck. So, what we're gonna do, we're gonna disconnect our lower shock bolts here. You're gonna need a 21-millimeter socket and wrench for this, and if you're using power tools like me and you're using floor jacks or pole jacks, it's helpful to have a swivel socket on there because as you can see, it is a bit of a squeeze.Next, we're gonna free up our U bolts here. We're gonna remove the nuts on the bottom. You'll need the same 21-millimeter deep socket for these. All right. So, once you got all those nuts removed from your factory U bolts and the U bolts are out of the way, you wanna begin gently lowering your axle on both sides. Make sure you lower both sides at the same time because again, it is very heavy and technically, it's only connected to the vehicle by the drive shaft, right? So, lower both of these down just enough to get the factory block out of there. Go ahead and throw your new lift blocks in place. Make sure the pins on the lift locks line up with the holes that are already in there on the axle and the leaf pack itself. Now, you also wanna make sure that the tapered end of the lift block is facing towards the front of the truck. All right. So, we've got our spacer is in place, everything is lined back up, and we pushed our axle up to the appropriate ride height.Now, we're gonna install our new U bolts. Now, these guys use new hardware. You're not reusing the nuts that you removed earlier because these are actually fine threads. You're also going up one size as far as your socket goes. You're going from a 21-millimeter deep socket to a 22-millimeter deep socket. All right. While we're over here, we're gonna throw our shock bolt back in. Again, 21-millimeter deep socket and wrench. And we'll do the same thing for the other side. All right. Once you got those lift blocks installed and everything tightened down in the back, that'll wrap up the install. It also wraps up my review of the MotoFab three-inch front and one-inch rear leveling kit fitting your '07 to '18 Silverado or Sierra 1500. I'm Travis. Thanks for watching. And for all things Chevy and GMC, keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Complete Leveling Kit. This MotoFab 3-inch Front and 1-inch Rear Leveling Kit increases ground clearance to protect your undercarriage. The lifted look imparts rugged style to your Silverado. The leveling kit also increases clearance for larger tires by raising the front end by 3 inches and the rear end by 1 inch.
Impeccable Strength. The front spacers and rear lift blocks in this complete leveling kit area crafted from machined billet aluminum which allows them be resistant of breaking and is durable. A black powder coat finish safeguards against corrosion and rusting, so your spacers stay in great condition.
Straight Forward Installation. You don’t have to do any strut/coil disassembly to install this leveling kit. It comes with installation hardware and instructions; all you need are tools and about 2 hours of time to complete this intermediate-level task.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. MotoFab ensures the defect-free workmanship and operation of this leveling kit with a lifetime warranty.
Application. This MotoFab 3-inch Front / 1-inch Rear Leveling Kit fits all 2007-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models.
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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