(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$61.90 (kit)FREE Shipping on orders over $75
Hey. What's up, guys? I'm Ryan from American Trucks. And today, I'm here with the MotoFab 2-5-inch Front Leveling kit, fitting your 2007 to 2018 Silverado 1500 and Sierra, and your 2007 to 2013 Denali. This kit is gonna lift the front end, leveling it out, giving you some additional clearance, and it's gonna allow you to fit up to a 33-inch tire, which is gonna give you even more ground clearance. This is a pretty basic kit as far as lift kits go. This comes with front spacers that are made from heavy-duty billet aluminum and they're machined for a perfect fit. These are powder coated black, which is really gonna match your factory suspension. And, not only that, it's gonna provide some additional corrosion protection. Now, install is relatively easy as far as lift kits go, since there's no strut disassembly. These spacers bolt right on the top and they come with brand new hardware to install. This is your most affordable option on the site at just around $60. I think this a great option to go with to get your truck up and back on the road. And, not only that, this comes with a limited lifetime warranty and they're made right here in the USA.Now, as far as the install goes, I am gonna give this two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter as you can install these in about two hours using just basic hand tools. Now, with that being said, let's hop into the install. Tools required for this install, pry bar, Channellocks, 15-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter wrench, 19-millimeter wrench, a larger pry bar, a hammer, ViseGrips, flathead screwdriver, quarter-inch drive ratchet, 3/8 drive ratchet, 5-millimeter Allen key, T30 Torx, 5/16 Allen, 10-millimeter socket, 22-millimeter socket, 21-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter socket, 17-millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket half-inch drive, 15-millimeter socket 3/8 drive. So the first thing you need to do to install this lift kit is you need to put your truck up in the air. And you can do this on a lift or you can do it on jack stands if you wanna do it on the ground. We already have our truck up on the lift and we've already removed our wheels and tires using a 22-millimeter socket. So the first thing we're gonna do is get this caliper and rotor off. So we're gonna start disconnecting our lines using a 10-millimeter socket.So we're gonna start with this top bolt here on top of the steering knuckle. We're gonna take that out so we can free up this ABS line. And if you tend to lose hardware, you can just put that bolt right back in. And next, we're gonna do this bracket on top of the upper control arm. Same thing, we're gonna use a 10-millimeter socket. That's gonna free up both of our ABS and brake lines. So the next thing we're gonna do is remove our caliper. Now, our caliper bracket is holding our rotor on so we're actually gonna take that off as an assembly. We're gonna do these inner bolts. We're gonna use an 18-millimeter socket to get those out. We're gonna do this upper bolt here. And then before you get this all the way out, you'll wanna get a bungee or a zip tie so we can hang this aside. So I'm just gonna take the bungee, hook it on there, and then find a good spot to hang this. Next thing you wanna do is take the rotor off. Now, you may or may not have this little set screw here. If you do, we're gonna use a T30 Torx to get that out. It just keeps the rotor from flopping around. Once you get the rotor off, the next thing we're gonna do is take out our ABS line. So we're gonna use a 5-millimeter Allen key to remove that bolt and then we'll pull that away.To get that bolt out, you're gonna use a flathead screwdriver just to pry up on this, just get that out and out of the way. So, at this point in time, we're gonna start disconnecting some of the suspension and steering. We're gonna start with this tie rod up here so we're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to get that nut off, then we'll smack the knuckle with a hammer so we can loosen up that joint or it'll come out all by itself. If this doesn't just come right out for you, you can smack that with a hammer. So next thing we're gonna disconnect our sway bar end link. So we're gonna use a 15-millimeter wrench for the top and a 15-millimeter socket for underneath. So the next thing we're gonna do is support our lower control arm. I'm gonna put a little tension on the suspension because we're gonna get ready to remove that upper control arm. So we're gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench just to crack that nut loose. So we wanna make sure that this nut comes completely off so that it doesn't get stuck at any point after we crack this free. Once we make sure that it comes all the way off, we're gonna screw it on a few threads and then we'll crack this free to get this socket separated. So at this point in time, we're gonna smack the knuckle right here with a hammer and we'll get that to separate.After that, you can take a pry bar and just push down on this control arm a little bit and we'll take this nut the rest of the way off. We want to make sure that we don't allow our spindle to fall out too far because it might separate that joint since this is a four-wheel drive truck. The next thing you wanna do is lower our pole jack, that way we can work on getting that strut out. We're gonna start with the bottom of this strut. You're gonna have two bolts facing up to the bottom. We're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket to get both of those out and then we'll work on the top. So next thing we're gonna do is start on the top. Now, most likely, you're gonna have these wires that are clipped on to the top of the studs. You can use a flathead screwdriver just to pry those off. And once we get those off, we're gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench or a socket to get the three nuts off. So once you're ready to get that last nut off, you wanna put a hand on this strut because, after that, we're gonna pull this out. So now that you have the strut out, the next thing we're gonna do is get ready to attach this spacer. Now, this spacer comes with bolts and it actually has threaded holes in here so what we're gonna do is take these black bolts and we're gonna thread those through those holes.After you get those threaded in, we're gonna take a 5/16 Allen key and we're gonna tighten those up, just like that. So we're gonna do that for all three of them and then we're gonna attach this on top and they give us brand new nuts to screw on to these studs. So wanna make sure that these studs are sticking up. These are gonna be the new studs that go up through the strut tower. We're gonna slide this spacer on and then we'll install these new nuts that they give us. Once you get all of these nuts on, we're gonna use a 17-millimeter socket to tighten those up evenly. So after we have this spacer installed, the next thing we're gonna do is install it in the truck. Now, you wanna twist this 180 degrees from where you took it out because we need one of these studs to stick outward. Once you fit it back up in there, we're gonna reinstall those factory nuts for the top. After we have those reinstalled, we're gonna use that same 18-millimeter wrench to tighten them up. At this point in time, we're just gonna do everything in the reverse order to get this all back together. So we're gonna start with these bottom two bolts here for the lower strut. Now, you may need to wrestle with the bottom of this strut since we did have to turn it around 180 degrees. Once you get the holes lined up, you gotta reinstall those factory bolts.After you get the strut assembly in, next thing you wanna do is place a pole jack underneath of the lower control arm. We're gonna raise that back up so we can reconnect the upper ball joint. So when you get it raised far up enough, what we're gonna do is stick a pry bar underneath of one of the coils, that way we can push the upper control arm down. Then we're gonna line the hole up in the top of the spindle with the steering knuckle and we're gonna push that down as far as we can. Once it pokes out enough to catch a few threads, we're gonna put that nut back on, then we're gonna work on tightening that nut up. So we're gonna use the pry bar again, getting it in our lower coil, push that all the way down. Then we'll use an 18-millimeter wrench to tighten that nut up. Next, we're gonna do our tie rod. So we'll reinstall that with the factory nylon lock nut. And then to keep it from spinning, we're gonna take a pry bar and push down on it underneath the axle and tighten it with a 21-millimeter. Next, we're gonna reattach our ABS line. So you'll wanna take this over the top of the steering knuckle and then it's gonna come back through here. Then we'll wanna slide it back into the hole, reinstall that Allen head bolt that we took out, and then you can tighten that up. I'm gonna use a 5-millimeter to tighten it up.Then we'll reattach our ABS bracket up here. Reinstalling the factory bolt and tighten it up with a 10-millimeter. Next, we're gonna put our rotor back on. And if you want to, you can reinstall that screw. And we'll tighten it up with a T30 Torx. That'll hold the rotor in place while we get the brake assembly on. Next, we'll reinstall our caliper, caliper bracket, and we'll put those bolts back in. So once you get those two bolts in for the caliper bracket, we're gonna tighten those up with an 18-millimeter socket. And we wanna make them nice and tight. Next, we're gonna reinstall our sway bar end link. So we'll pull our sway bar down. Then we'll use a 15-millimeter socket and wrench to tighten that back up. Now, we're gonna reinstall our upper bracket on our upper control arm. Gonna put that stock bolt back in there and tighten it up with a 10-millimeter. So, at this point in time, we have this side completely put back together and everything is tightened up. You wanna do the same thing for the other side and then you can reinstall those wheels, torquing them to factory specs. After that, you'll wanna get an alignment just so they can straighten everything out and you'll have them check all of that hardware. However, that's gonna wrap up my review and install. For more videos like this, check us out at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
True Level Lift. Get a quality lift in the front of your Chevy Silverado 1500 with the MotoFab 2.5-Inch Front Leveling Kit. You can have confidence in the quality craftsmanship of these spacers that are the strongest currently on the market. They were innovatively designed and manufactured to prevent cracking over time, which is common with welded spacers.
Durable Construction. These spacers are sure to provide long-lasting performance value with their precision CNC-machined design and heavy-duty billet aluminum construction. They are made to last with high-quality material that has a durable powder-coated black finish, which matches the factory suspension.
Simple Installation. You can complete this simple installation process in about 1½ - 2 hours with basic hand tools and general mechanical knowledge. The manufacturer provides an instruction guide and all the required mounting hardware. The installation process does not require any strut or coil disassembly.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. Customers will receive a limited lifetime warranty on this lift kit that covers craftsmanship defects. Exclusions or limitations may apply. For further details, please read through the manufacturer’s warranty information.
Application. The MotoFab 2.5-Inch Front Leveling Kit is designed to fit all 2007-2021 Chevy Silverado 1500 models, excluding Trail Boss.
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Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
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Not Compatible with the 2007 Silverado 1500 Classic Model.