(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$61.90 (kit)FREE Shipping on orders over $75
Hey. What's up, guys. I'm Ryan from AmericanTrucks, and today I'm here with the MotoFab 2 Inch Front Leveling Kit fitting your 2007 to 2018 Silverado 1500 and Sierra 1500, excluding the 2014 to 2018 Denali model. This is going to be for those of you that are looking to level out that truck for an incredibly affordable price. This is gonna get rid of that factory rake, giving you a better stance, a little additional ground clearance, and allowing you to fit up to a 33-inch tire. Now, these are machined for a perfect fit and are made of heavy-duty, durable billet aluminum, and they're finished off with a black powder coating that's gonna blend right into that factory suspension. Installation is relatively simple as far as these leveling kits go since the spacer bolt's right on top of that factory strut, you don't need to disassemble that assembly at all, making it pretty easy. Now these are designed for long life with their solid one-piece construction, unlike those welded spacers that can tend to crack over time. Now there's many options to choose from on the site, and I think this is one of the great ones to choose from. At just around $60, you really can't beat that price and not only that, does come with a limited lifetime warranty and they're made right here in the USA. As far as installation goes, I'm going to give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter since we are dealing with suspension and such, but expect to get this done in about two hours. Now with that being said, let's hope into the install.Tools we use first install: gloves, safety glasses, 18-millimeter wrench, 15-millimeter wrench, 1/4 inch drive ratchet, red Loctite, 5/16 Allen key, 10-millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket, 17-millimeter socket, 21-millimeter socket, 22-millimeter socket. Cutoff wheel, 1/2 inch drive impact, channel locks, hammer, pry bar, bungee cord, 3/8 drive impact. So one of the nice things about this kit is we don't have to touch the rear. This is only gonna be a spacer for the front. It's gonna lift and level that out. We have to get that strut out, so basically we need to take everything off around that. So there's two ways you can do it. You can do it on a lift like we're doing it where you have to take the front wheels and tires off, or you can do it on the ground. If you're doing it on the ground, you want to lift the front of the truck up, support it with jack stands. Now the first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna disconnect our brake lines. There's gonna be two brackets that we need to take the bolts out of. We're gonna use a 10-millimeter socket, and I'll show you how to do that right now. So the first bolt is gonna be on top of here, right behind the brake rotor. After that, we're gonna have another bolt back here on the upper control arm. It's gonna free up the brake line and ABS line, so when we drop this whole setup down, it's not gonna rip. Now the next thing we're gonna do is disconnect our sway bar end link. This is gonna allow the lower control arm to drop down enough so we can get that strut out. So we're gonna use a 15-millimeter wrench for the top, 15-millimeter socket for the bottom. And then we're gonna pull that whole assembly out. So the next thing we're gonna do is take out our tie rod. So we're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket, take that factory nut off, then we'll smack it with a hammer and get it out of there. So to get this out, we're not gonna smack the tie rod, we're gonna smack the steering knuckle. That should allow that to pop out. We'll just set that aside. So after that, we're gonna swing this to the side. We're gonna take this nut off of the upper control arm. We're gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench to take that off. So at this point in time, we are going to separate this upper ball joint. The way we're gonna do that is smack the steering knuckle, and that's gonna crack that free. You can put a little tension on that with a pry bar. Now there's a lot of swinging weight here, and if you choose to take this brake assembly off, that's going to lighten it up. We're not gonna do that, so we're going to take a bungee cord and bungee that to the side once we break this free. So I'm gonna show you how to do that right now. Next, we're gonna go to the bottom of the strut. We're gonna take these two bolts out. We'll use a 15-millimeter socket to get those out. Now after you get this last one out, this whole control arm is gonna drop down, so you might want to support it with a jack stand or something. So after that, we're gonna go up top because we need to take the three nuts off of the top of the strut. So you're gonna have some wires up here. You can just use a screwdriver or a pry bar, pry those off. And then we're gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench to get those nuts off. So we're gonna put a hand on the strut to get this last nut off. Once we get that off, we're gonna pull this whole assembly out. So with our strut out, we're gonna come over here on the table. Now we have a spacer to install, but before we get this spacer installed, we have a few things that we need to do. Now we're gonna have these studs that we need to install into the spacer. We also need to cut a little bit of the studs off on the strut. This is so they don't poke out of the spacer. So the first thing we're gonna do is install these studs into the spacer. Now it doesn't come with the kit, but it would be a good idea to get some red Loctite. That way that these things are going to be stuck in there and not have the chance to come out. So I'm gonna show you how to do that right now. If you are using red Loctite, we're gonna put it down here at the base where it's actually gonna seat in the spacer. We're gonna put a little bit on there, let it run around the threads, and then we'll just get this started in there. We'll get all three of these done and thread it in, and then we'll get them in with the impact. So I'm installing these on this recessed area of this stud because we want this flat side facing up. So once we get those in, we're going to take a 5/16 Allen key and we're going to tighten those up. Now, while that red Loctite is setting, we're gonna cut these studs off. Now this spacer is only gonna go on one way, so we got to find out which way that it's gonna go on. So we need to cut this a little bit of excess off that's sticking out so you can make a mark, pull this spacer off, and then we'll get them cut. Now, to bolt this spacer on, we're gonna use these brand new nuts that come in the kit. It would be a good idea to run these nuts down far enough. That way when you cut this, you can run them back off and that'll rethread them. So you want to put your gloves on, safety gloves and your safety glasses, and then we're gonna cut down a little bit right where the threads start. So after you get those studs cut, we're ready to install this spacer. So we're gonna fit this spacer back on, figuring out which way it goes. There we go. Then we're gonna install the new nuts provided. So we're gonna thread these on one by one. So after that, we're gonna take our 17-millimeter socket and go around and tighten these up. Now there's not really any torque specs on these, so you just want to make them good and tight. All right, so one thing to mention is we have to spin this around 180 degrees to put it back in the truck. So it would be a good idea and it's gonna make it a lot easier for you to get this in if you put this end in a vice and just spin it a little bit because we want to cock this 180 degrees the other way. So after that, we're gonna reinstall this and we're gonna use those factory nuts for the top of these studs. Once we get that seated, push it up, get those nuts started. Now you want to leave this front one pretty loose, so we're just going to catch a few threads. We're gonna get these two back ones on pretty much all the way. So on the bottom of the strut, you're going to have these little captured cage nuts. It would be a good idea to get these off because this is a little crooked when you get it on, it's gonna be hard to get that bolt in the threads without cross threading it. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to put these bolts up through there first. So we're just going to run them up through the strut just a little bit and then I'm gonna set one of these cage nuts on top and we're gonna do the same thing on the other side. So after that, we're gonna go up top and we're gonna tighten these nuts up using an 18-millimeter wrench. All right, so the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna put that upper control arm back in, so you might need a hand. Like I said, there's a lot of weight out here. What we're gonna do is we're gonna use a pry bar. So we're gonna get this in place underneath of the control arm and we'll use a pry bar to pry the control arm down. That's gonna drop this stud down enough that we can get that factory nut back on. So after that, we're gonna drop our tie rod back in, put that factory nut back on, then we're gonna tighten it up with a 21. Now if it spins the stud because there is a nylon lock on it, you can either hold this with a socket down here or you can come in here, just pry down on it a little bit with a pry bar, and that should allow you to tighten that up. So when we put this back in, we want this bushing on this washer on the stud, this is gonna go up through the bottom. Then we have this collar to put in the middle, that's gonna go all the way up through there, and we're going to lower this sway bar down and we have another bushing that we need to put up top and then the nut. After that, we're gonna take our 15-millimeter socket and wrench, we're gonna tighten this up. All right, so the last thing we need to do on this side is re-install those brake line brackets. So we're just gonna put those factory bolts back in, tighten them up with a 10 millimeter. All right, so now that you're all done, you can throw those wheels back on and torque them back down to factory specs. After that, you want to get an alignment, have them recheck all that suspension. However, that's gonna wrap up my review and install. For more videos like this, check us out at americantrucks.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Quality and Innovation. The MotoFab 2-Inch Front Leveling Kit was designed to provide a true level lift for your Chevy Silverado 1500. You can rely on the quality and innovation of these spacers that are the best on the market today. They provide an excellent lift in your truck and were made to prevent cracking over time, unlike welded spacers that tend to crack.
Precision Machined. The manufacturer uses precision machining to ensure that the spacers will have a perfect fit in your Silverado. They are made to last with durable billet aluminum to ensure long-lasting performance value. A heavy-duty black powder-coated finish is used, matching the OEM suspension.
Straightforward Installation. No strut and coil disassembly are required with this basic installation process. You can complete the installation with general hand tools and moderate mechanical knowledge in approximately 1½ - 2 hours. All the necessary mounting hardware and an instruction guide is included to facilitate the installation.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. The manufacturer provides customers with a limited lifetime warranty covering craftsmanship defects. Some limitations apply. For additional details, please review all the manufacturer’s warranty information.
Application. The MotoFab 2-Inch Front Leveling Kit is designed to fit all 2007-2018 Chevy Silverado 1500 models.
Shop All Truck Parts And Accessories
Shop All Truck Leveling Kits
Shop All Truck Lift Kits
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
April 21, 2020
Great level kit!
To easy to install and makes the truck look nicer instead of the stock priusHelpful (0)
April 12, 2020
The 2” kit made it sit practically dead level. The top of all wheel wells are 39.5” from the ground unless I have a full tank, then the rear left squats .5” down to 39”. CV angle looks good. Top ball joint looks ok, I wouldn’t want anymore though. Clearing 275/60r20 with -25mm 20x10sHelpful (1)
April 06, 2020
Awesome and easy to install. Makes truck look greatHelpful (0)
February 18, 2020
Love the look
Completely erases your rake makes it look perfect you could fit 35s with the cally mod so you don’t rubHelpful (0)
December 07, 2019
MotoFab 2 in. Front Leveling Kit
Awesome kit for 2018 Centennial edition, Took 2 1/2 hrs to install. Advise getting alignment for tire wear. Definitely can tell a difference once installed from outside stance and road view from behind wheel. Had Nitto G2 grapplers 33/12.5/22 installed without any rubbing issues. Gives an aggressive look to truck.Helpful (4)
December 06, 2019
Great product and easy to install. Leveled the truck perfectly and gave it a great look.Helpful (0)
August 01, 2019
Item is super simple to install took about an hour or so, fits perfectly and with the 2" you really cant even tell that it is there! On my set up from ground to bottom of fender the front measured to be a half inch short than the rear which you really cant tell definitely recommend this!Helpful (7)
July 01, 2019
MotoFab 2in leveling kit
It was simple and easy to install, the spacers are high quality and looks to last for the life of the truck. I highly recommend this product from Motofab. Time to install was almost 3 hours.Helpful (0)
May 23, 2019
Motofab 2 inch leveling kit.
Easy to install, really makes the truck look right. I think it is the best mod you can do for under $100. It really, really changes the personality of the truck. Thanks American Trucks, you videos are excellent.Helpful (4)
April 16, 2019
Motofab 2" worked well looks good.
I put it on a 2015 chevy Silverado. worked well sits a little higher than the back. might need to put on a 1.5" riser in back now though.Helpful (1)
Does this kit raise the truck 2” at wheel well or front bumper? My 2018 Silverado is exactly 2” lower in front if I measure at wheel wells. I want the front and back to be exactly the same. Do I need to get the 2.5” kit to make the wheel well measurement the same, or does the 2” kit do that. I’ve already purchased the 2” kit but want to make sure it does the correct lift before I install. Mark
This will lift your truck 2" at the wheel well.
Does this kit cause issues with the tie rod angles?
sounds like it everyone is happy with the look, but how about the ride, does it ride stiffer? is there any noise when turning when engaged in 4 wheel drive?
Does this change camber or toe in with the 2 inch lift disc?
These may be affected, which is why an alignment is required after install.
Do I need new upper a-arms if I install the 2" leveling discs?
No, new upper a-arms will not be necessary with this application.
You would be able to clear a 33-inch tall tire with this leveling kit and aftermarket wheels with proper backspacing and offset.