(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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So there are a lot of exhaust options currently available for the '14 to '18 5.3 liter powered Silverado and Sierras. But you should be checking out MBRP's 3-inch XP Series Dual Exhaust System if you're looking for one of the most affordable stainless dual exhaust systems currently available and you like that factory side exit configuration. And I say that because at around the $600 price point, the XP Series is currently one of the least expensive dual exhausts that is made out of stainless steel. If you've been looking around and you've seen other options that are less expensive, well, chances are they're made out of a more entry-level aluminized steel, which will show signs of rust a little bit quicker or they're gonna be a single side or single rear exit configuration so you're not getting that dual exit configuration like you see here. Now, obviously, volume and sound is the most important, right? And I pegged the XP Series at a healthy three out of five on my loudness meter.I'd say this is right on the limit of what you'd be comfortable with if you daily your truck, you got kids or family or a lot of passengers in there, and you don't want any noise inside the interior and you don't wanna suffer any drone while you're driving around. You can slightly hear the exhaust inside the cab, but it's very quiet. It's not anything that's gonna interrupt any conversations. And that's all thanks to the XP Series muffler, does an excellent job of giving the truck a really deep and lopey idle. And it keeps things nice and throaty through the RPM band so you don't get any crackles or pops on the high end there. Now as far as the install goes, you might have to cut the provided tubing but it's a very easy cut. You can do it with a Sawzall and some basic measuring. So you can definitely get this installed at home with basic hand tools. And for that reason, I'm gonna give the install a pretty simple two out of three wrenches on my difficulty meter. It shouldn't take you more than two or three hours to get this installed.So, again, if you want one of the most affordable dual exhaust systems made out of stainless, you should pull the trigger on the XP Series and then you can actually come back to this video because I'm gonna show you guys exactly what tools you need and I'll walk you through the entire install step by step. All right, to install your exhaust system, you'll need a standard drive ratchet, a 5/16 Allen key or Allen head socket, as well as a 13, 15, and 9/16 deep socket. You'll also need a 9/16 wrench. Optional but very helpful tools include some spray lubricant, an exhaust hanger puller tool, a swivel socket, and an impact gun. All right, so there are two generally accepted ways to remove your factory exhaust. You could go the fast and easy route and cut everything off, but there's also a way to retain your factory exhaust as one piece. I'm a fan of keeping my factory components whenever possible. So I'm actually gonna show you guys how to unbolt this thing and get it removed without cutting.Now, we're gonna start up here behind our Y-pipe. We're gonna remove the clamp securing our factory cat-back. In order to do that, you'll need a 13-millimeter socket. All right, once you got that clamp removed, we're gonna start pulling the rubber isolator that secure the exhaust hangers of our factory cat-back. Now, there are a couple here, you got one directly above me here behind this crossmember, you got two behind the muffler, and then you got one at the tailpipe. Now if you're doing this by yourself like me, it's helpful to have the exhaust supported by pole jacks or jack stands. But if you have a friend with you, that's helpful too, just make sure he or she is holding on to the tailpipe when you pull that last rubber isolator. It's also very helpful to have an exhaust hanger puller tool or some sort of pry tool like me and it's also very helpful to have some spray lubricant. We're gonna spray down all these rubber isolators.We're gonna remove them from all the exhaust hangers. Then we're gonna lower down our cat-back over the axle. We're gonna push everything back towards the rear of the bumper so that the flex fitting can go over this crossmember. Once that's dipped down, we can pull the entire exhaust out from underneath the truck. All right, so with that last rubber isolator removed from our tailpipe here, you can see our exhaust is now technically free from the vehicle. It's only supported by the pole jack behind me or if you're working with a buddy, in that case, it would be your friend. So what we're gonna do, we're gonna lower this thing down, we're gonna let the over axle pipe rest on the axle. Again, we're gonna push everything back towards the bumper so we can get that flex fitting over the crossmember, then we can pull the entire system out from underneath the truck as one piece.All right, so we have our factory system removed. We got the new XP system here sitting next to it. You guys can see where all that exhaust volume and tone is coming from. We got a much smaller muffler here, a lot more free-flowing. We're also ditching the resonator on our tailpipe there so everything stays nice and free flowing out of our exhaust tips, which by the way, are made out of 304 stainless. Those are four inches in diameter. They look a lot better than the factory tailpipe. Well, because there's no tip on there to speak of, right? Now even though the tips are made out of 304 stainless, the rest of the system is made out of that factory grade 409. You can see our original system does have some miles on it. It does have a little bit of corrosion, but it's hanging in there nicely. And we do live on the East Coast. We see a lot of rain, we see a lot of snow, and we see a lot of road salt. This thing has stood up to the test of time. So it's safe to say you don't gotta worry about the new system rusting out on you anytime soon. Now as far as the install goes, we're retaining all of our factory hanger locations. And even though we're going from a single exit to a split rear exit, they do throw in a new rubber isolator and a new exhaust hanger. There is a pre-drilled hole in the frame so you don't gotta cut or drill anything. Now as far as cutting goes for the exhaust itself, you might have to make that one cut to the extension pipe depending on your cab and bed length. But if you're working with the truck that we are, which is 143-1/2 inch wheelbase, you don't gonna make any cuts whatsoever. So without further do, we're gonna start throwing on our new exhaust system. Go ahead and grab that 13-millimeter socket because we're gonna be reusing that factory clamp on our Y-pipe. All right, before we throw our pipe in place, you wanna grab this clamp and hanger combo here. You will need a 15-millimeter socket to tighten down all the clamps but we're working with that factory ball clamp first. So you'll need a 13-millimeter socket for that one. When you go to tighten this stuff down, make sure this pipe is nice as flush and straight as the factory one is then we'll through our muffler in place. All right, once your pipe is in place, you can throw your muffler up there. You want this support bracket facing up towards the cab and bed. And, again, make sure you throw a clamp on the end of the pipe so you can tighten that down once the muffler is in place. All right, once your muffler is tightened down, you can start throwing on your over axle pipes and tailpipes. We're gonna start with our passenger side, same process as before, make sure you got some clamps on the outlet of the muffler. Those are the 2-1/2 inch clamps in the kit. You also wanna spray down both rubber isolators before you throw the pipes in place. All right, with our tailpipe in place, we can throw on our first exhaust tip. Now in order to tighten this guy down, you'll need a 5/16 Allen key or Allen head socket.All right, our passenger side is all taken care of. Before we do our driver side pipes, we're gonna install that new rubber isolator and exhaust hanger in the kit. Now there's a large pre-drilled hole in the frame next to the spare tire and you'll be grabbing these very large flat washers with these bolts, washers, and nuts. You'll need a 9/16 socket and wrench to tighten all this stuff down. I'll show you guys where that hole is in just a second. All right, so you're gonna take your bolt and your large flat washer and push it through this large pre-drilled hole in the frame. And when you put the exhaust hanger in place, you want it facing out towards the leaf spring. Once you got that oriented, grab the second large flat washer with the appropriate crush washer and the 9/16 nut. Now we're gonna leave this hand tight because we want a little bit of play and adjustment in there for the hanger on the pipe itself.All right, now that we got that exhaust hanger in place, we can throw on our driver side tailpipes, same process as the passenger side. Make sure you got clamps on all of your pipes. Make sure you spray down all those rubber isolators. And if any of them give you any grief, well, you can just pull them off and then slide back in place. So we have all our exhaust tips in place. Everything's looking nice. All we gotta do is tighten down that exhaust hanger that we installed earlier. Again, it's SAE, so we'll need a 9/16 wrench and a 9/16 deep socket. And if you're using power tools like me, I would definitely have a swivel on hand. All right, so once you got all those clamps and that exhaust hanger tightened down, that'll wrap up the install. And that also wraps up my review of the MBRP 3-inch XP Series Dual Exhaust System in the side exit configuration. I'm Travis, thanks for watching and keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
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(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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