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Mammoth 0 to 2-Inch Lift Coil-Over Kit (09-14 4WD F-150, Excluding Raptor)

Item T543350
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      Product Videos

      Hey, guys. It's Sara with americantrucks.com, and today we have a review and install of the Mammoth 0 to 2-Inch Lift Coil-Over Kit, fitting your '09 to '14 four-wheel-drive F150 excluding the Raptor. This kit is perfect for the F150 owner who wants a customizable leveling solution that gives them more room for wheels and tires, a more level appearance and includes a complete strut and shock replacement, which is a nice upgrade for the money. This leveling solution provides zero to 2 inches of lift in the front to give your truck a more level appearance. Now, these struts come adjusted with zero inches of lift in the front. So, if you would like to install them as is they will give you stock ride height. Now, if you do want to adjust these, what you would do is loosen the collar on the bottom here and spin the entire assembly itself to lengthen them. Now, this has to be done before they are fully installed as these are not adjustable once they're fully installed on the truck. Either way, we'll show you that in just a few minutes.With this kit installed you will have the option to increase ground clearance to make some more room for wheels and tires, all while maintaining stock ride quality. Now, depending on the year and model of your truck stock tire sizes may vary. Our truck we have a 31-inch tire stock which is what you will see in this video. And with this kit installed you can fit up to a 33-inch tire comfortably. This kit includes two strut assemblies for the front and two shocks for the rear, allowing you to level out your truck's appearance and also install some fresh components. So, as far as price goes, this kit comes in at around $550 which is middle of the road price-wise when compared to other options. And for your money, you are getting a full strut and shock replacement that is customizable so you can set your own ride height. And as far as the install goes, I'm giving this one a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does feature a direct bolt-up installation that can be done within five hours. So, with that said, let's check out the install.For this install, you will need a pry bar, a pop clip removal tool as well as a flathead screwdriver, 27-millimeter, 24-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 15-millimeter, and 14-millimeter wrenches, 8-millimeter, 10-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 21-millimeter, 24-millimeter, and 13-millimeter sockets. A 5-millimeter Allen key or Allen socket. You may also want a swivel extension, you'll need an impact gun or a ratchet will work just fine. You also need a vacuum pump, a caliper hanger or similar tool, and a hammer or a rubber mallet. Also, if you would like to adjust your strut assembly you'll need the included spanner wrench. All right, so the first step in our uninstall, with your truck in the air and a wheel removed, we're gonna start by removing two bolts that hold brackets for lines on the side of your knuckle. So, starting out we have a 10-millimeter bolt right here that holds on your brake line, we're gonna grab a 10-millimeter socket and remove this. Then you can remove the bracket out of that little hole there on the tab. Next up we have an 8-millimeter bolt here. So, with an 8-millimeter socket, go ahead and remove this.Now, both of these lines should be free of the knuckle. Next up we're gonna remove the 21-millimeter nut that holds on your outer tie rod to your knuckle. With your 21-millimeter socket, go ahead and get this removed. Now, if it doesn't wanna come out right away, what I'm gonna do is thread this nut back on a little bit to protect the threads and then we'll tap it on the side here to release it. All right, now we're moving on to the underside of the vehicle, we're gonna do two different things starting with disconnecting the nut for the sway bar end link. Now, you can remove the entire end link or you can just disconnect one side and that will disconnect your sway bar. Go ahead and grab an 18-millimeter socket and remove it. All right, now we're moving on to the back of our caliper. Now, we do need to remove the caliper as well as the rotor to have access to our knuckle. So, what we're gonna do is get to the back of the caliper bracket itself with a 21-millimeter socket and remove the bolts.Now, another helpful tip here is while you're separating the caliper from the rotor, throw a lug nut on there just to hold the rotor in place so it doesn't come off with the caliper. From there, you can either wiggle the caliper off or if it's very, very tight, you can use a pry bar and pull back on the brake pads in order to release them. Once your caliper is off, grab a caliper hanger or a similar tool, even some wire will work just to take the tension off the brake line and hang it up. All right, now we can take our lug nut off, and as you can see the rotor is free. Now, if it's not, you can tap on the backside here with a rubber mallet. But since ours is already free moving, we can just slide it right off. We'll also be removing this dust shield just so it's out of the way. It's three 8-millimeter bolts, so go ahead and grab an 8-millimeter socket and get these removed. And now we'll also remove this sensor from the knuckle as well. This is a 5-millimeter Allen, so grab a 5-millimeter Allen key or Allen socket and remove this bolt. Now you can wiggle out the sensor and hang it off to the side.Next up we're moving to the back of the knuckle. We're gonna pull off the vacuum line and on the larger port, we're gonna place the line for our vacuum pump. Now, we're gonna pull about 20 pounds of vacuum in order to release the four-wheel-drive actuator so that we can pull the axle out. At this point, we need to remove the dust cover for our axle nut to expose the axle. And make sure we still have vacuum pulled but with a 13-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the axle nut. Now at this point, we can release the upper ball joint by removing the nut. Just gonna throw a pry bar in there just as a precaution in case it releases as soon as we loosen this nut. I have a 21-millimeter socket here as well as a swivel to get a proper angle on it. Go ahead and remove this as we push down on the upper control arm. Now, because it didn't release, we will now have to tap it right here until it does. Just leaving this bottom nut on a few threads to be able to loosen it by hand, that will protect the threads and it will keep the upper control arm from completely releasing.Now, with a hammer, I'm gonna tap the side of the knuckle right up here until it releases. Putting our pry bar back in and prying down, we will now remove the nut and release the upper control arm completely. All right now, the last thing holding on our knuckle here is this nut on the lower ball joint. Now, this probably will not release by just loosening the nut but be prepared, if it does release to not allow the entire thing to come down. Grab a 24-millimeter socket and get this removed. Okay, so it is still attached to the ball joint here, it did not actually release, so we're gonna thread on this nut a little bit out of the way, and then we're gonna hit the backside of this with a hammer until it releases. All right, so now that is released we can lift up on the knuckle. Make sure you're still pulling vacuum and you can wiggle it loose and remove it. All right, now I did wanna just show you guys why we pull this vacuum in order to pull this knuckle off. Again, you don't have to pull the knuckle but it makes it a lot easier. So, when we pull vacuum you may notice the inside ring of this four-wheel-drive actuator to move. Once we have about 20 pounds, it should be still, and then once I release this you can see it go back to engaging.So, when there's no vacuum it's engaged, when you pull the vacuum, it releases so you can remove this knuckle without damaging your four-wheel-drive. All right, next up, we're gonna remove the large bolt that goes to the bottom of your strut. Now, on the bolt side, we have a 27-millimeter wrench, and on the nut side, we have a 30-millimeter socket. Go ahead and get this removed. All right, so before we remove the nuts on top of the strut, I'm just gonna pull this pop clip out just to give us a little more room on the far nut. We have a pop clip removal tool and we're just gonna pull it up and out. Next up, we have a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench. We're gonna start with the front-most nut here, go ahead and get it removed. Moving on to the far one, this one is just behind that one. Again, with your 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench, go ahead and remove it. Now, you can also use a 15-millimeter socket and ratchet, you just have a little less room with that, that's why I like the ratcheting wrench.Now finally, we have one more knot here. We're gonna loosen this almost all the way but not remove it, so we can use it to hold our strut in while we remove the bottom portion. All right, now that it is just hand-tight, we can start to remove the strut. All right, at this point, we can pry down on our lower control arm to get our strut removed. I'm putting a pry bar in here and using the frame to pull down on the lower control arm. And what we're just gonna do is try to have this bottom part clear its bracket. And now that's out, we can remove the last note we have up top and remove it off the truck. All right, so now that we have the factory strut uninstalled from our truck, we can check it out side-by-side with our Mammoth strut here. Now, this one features preset dampening as well as ride height to give you that 2-inch lift in the front and level out of your truck. In addition, it also features fresh components, which is a nice update from the aging factory components of your factory strut. So, with that said, let's go ahead and finish up our install.All right, now before we can get this strut assembly installed if you would like to make any height adjustments, now is the time to do so. Now, you can do this several ways, you can secure it on the table like I have it here or you can bolt just this top hat to your strut tower to hold this top in place while you adjust the bottom. Now, as I said before if this is fully installed, it is not adjustable but as long as the bottom part of the strut is freed, you can still adjust it. To do so, the first step what we're gonna do is grab the spanner wrench and you're gonna break this loose, and then by hand, you can turn this collar. You can also use this as a marker for how much you would like to adjust this. But once that is loose, you'll grab a small pry bar or you can use a flathead, and with the strut assembly secured, you can pull it down like this to make your adjustment. All right, at this point, we can install our strut onto the truck. What we're gonna do is line up the studs on top with the top of the strut tower, rotate it until they all line up. What we're gonna do is install one of the nuts on top to hold it in place while we line up the bottom.Now, at this point, we're gonna grab our pry bar and just pry down on the lower control arm so we can line up the bottom of our strut. Now as we're pressing down on the lower control arm, with our strut in place, what we're gonna do is line up these collars through the lower control arm into the strut. And there's one for either side. And now we're gonna install the included bolt with the lock nut. Now, with your 24-millimeter socket and a 24-millimeter wrench, go ahead and tighten it down. Now we can install the remaining two nuts on the top of your strut assembly. And with a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench, we're gonna tighten them down. Now you can use a ratchet here, but I think the 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench gives us the most room. And while we're up here we're gonna replace the pop clip that holds the lines that we pulled out earlier. Now, at this time, we can replace the knuckle. What we're gonna do is line up the lower ball joint as well as the axle simultaneously. And as soon as you have the ball joint peeking out, thread the nut on the bottom. Make sure you are pulling vacuum at this time as we line them both up.Now, with some threads on the lower ball joint, we can now begin to line up our axle. Line it up until it's poking through the knuckle, and continue to press it all the way back till you see a shoulder at the back of your axle, and now you can thread on your factory nut. Then with your 13-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten it down. With your axle in place, go ahead and tighten down the nut for your lower ball joint with a 24-millimeter socket. Now at this point, we can reattach our upper control arm. What we're gonna do is use our pry bar to the frame and then pry down on your upper control arm to line it up with your knuckle. Once you have it lined up, grab your factory nut and thread it on. We're gonna leave the pry bar in there to tighten it down. Now, with a 21-millimeter socket, and a swivel extension, we're gonna pry down on the upper control arm to put pressure on the ball joint, then we can tighten it down. With the knuckle in place now you can release your vacuum and remove the vacuum pump. Don't forget to replace your factory vacuum line on the back of your knuckle.Now you can line up the sensor and reinstall it into the top of your knuckle. Reinstall your factory bolt. And with a 5-millimeter Allen key or Allen socket tighten it down. Now, with our sensor in place, we can tuck the dust shield in front of it. Make sure that it's sitting nicely behind there and it isn't being pinched. Now we can replace the factory hardware. And with your 8-millimeter socket, tighten it down. And now we can also replace the dust cap for the axle. Go ahead and press it in place and if it doesn't seat all the way you can lightly tap it in with a rubber mallet. And now we can also replace the rotor, line it up, and slide it over the studs. And then before we get our caliper on, I like to put a lug nut on at least one of the studs to hold it in place for safety. Now we can replace the caliper over top of your rotor. Now, if you can't quite get it over, you can stick a pry bar in the caliper and pull back on the pads a little bit to release the tension. But once you have it lined up, go ahead and thread in your bolts through the bracket and line them up with your caliper. Grab your 21-millimeter socket and tighten them down.And while we're under here you can also thread the nut back on the end of your sway bar end link. Now, if you do still have the other side to do, you can leave this disconnected and install both of them last, but when you're ready, grab an 18-millimeter socket and tighten it down. Now, at this point, we can install the outer tie rod into the knuckle. Replace your factory nut, and with a 21-millimeter socket, tighten it down. And at this point, we can re-install the brake line. Line up the bracket with the opening and thread in your 10-millimeter bolt. Then with a 10-millimeter socket, tighten it down. Repeat that with your 8-millimeter bolt in the threaded hole right next to it. And then with your 8-millimeter bolt, tighten this down. All right, now this side is complete, repeat all those steps to install your passenger side. When everything's done, make sure that it's torqued to spec and we can move on to our rear install. All right, now that we've moved on to the rear of the truck, the first step in removing our shock is to remove the lower shock bolt, you're going to need a 15-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench.Now, we have our axle supported with a pole jack here, you can use a regular jack or even a jack stand if you're on the ground. We have our 15-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench, go ahead and get this removed. Now we're gonna repeat that for the top bolt. We have our 18-millimeter wrench on the nut and our 15-millimeter socket on the bolt head, go ahead and get this removed. Now you can remove the shock off of your truck. All right, now that we have our factory shock uninstalled from our truck, we can check it out side-by-side with our new shock here. Now, this does come with your leveling kit. So, while you're replacing components upfront, you can have some replacements for your rear as well. This is a nice replacement for the worn-out factory shock and is tuned for your truck. So you get the level appearance by installing your front components and a nice upgrade for the rear as well. So, with that said, let's finish up our install.At this point, we can install the shock. What we're gonna do is line it up with the upper shock mount and reinstall your factory hardware. And with your 18-millimeter wrench and a 15-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten them down. At this point, we can line up the bottom of the shock with the shock mount. I'm gonna raise up the axle a little bit until it lines up better with the opening so we can install our bolt. And with our 15-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench tighten it down. All right, now this side is complete, repeat all of those steps to install your passenger side. Make sure everything is torqued to spec and you will want a professional alignment afterwards. But that is gonna do it for the review and install of this leveling kit. And remember for all things F150, keep it at americantrucks.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Improves On and Off-road Handling Performance
      • Increases Ground Clearance by 2-Inches
      • Level Stance - Removes Factory Rake
      • Non-Adjustable, Pre-set Damping
      • Accommodates Larger Wheels and Tires
      • Bolt-on Installation - No Cutting Required
      • Fits 2009-2014 4WD Ford F-150 Models, Excluding Raptor

      Description

      Improves Stance and Handling. Improve the handling and stance of your 2009-2014 4WD F-150 by upgrading to a Mammoth 4x4 Coil-Over Kit. With 2-inches of lift, this kit can accommodate larger wheel and tire packages allowing you to conquer any trail. Featuring upgraded, heavy-duty shocks and coils, this Kit will greatly improve your F-150's handling capabilities, while leveling its ride height for a more aggressive appearance.

      Pre-set Damping. Mammoth 4x4 engineered their non-adjustable Coil-Over Kit with pre-set damping to retain your F-150's original ride quality. Pre-set damping will provide capable handling during normal and performance driving situations.

      Bolt-on Design. Mammoth 4x4 designed their Coil-Over Kit to be an easy, bolt-on conversion. There is absolutely no cutting, welding or other modifications required for a straight forward install. Please note that an alignment is highly recommended after installation.

      Application. This Mammoth 4x4 Coil-Over Kit is designed to fit 2009-2014 4WD Ford F-150 models, excluding Raptor.

      Mammoth 4x4

      Fitment:

      Details

      Mammoth T543350

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Coil-Over Shocks
      • (2) Rear Shocks
      • (4) Lower Coil-Over Shock Bolts
      • (6) Upper Coil-Over Shock Nuts
      • (1) Spanner Wrench
      4.3

      Customer Reviews (30)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My F-150

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        • 3.7L V6 - 11, 12, 13, 14
        • 4.6L V8 - 09, 10
        • 5.0L V8 - 11, 12, 13, 14
        • 5.4L V8 - 09, 10
        • 5.4L V8 Raptor - 10
        • 6.2L V8 - 11, 12, 13, 14
        • 6.2L V8 Raptor - 10, 11, 12, 13, 14