(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
$99.99 (kit)FREE Shipping
Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com, and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Mammoth 2-inch Front Leveling Kit, available for the '09 to '14 F-150, excluding the Raptor model. You should be checking out the 2-inch front leveling kit if you're looking for what most people called the perfect way to level out your truck in order to get rid of the factory rake, which I'll talk about in just a second, if you're looking to fit larger wheels and tires on your truck and if you're looking for just a little bit of added ground clearance at the front end.Now, let's start up front with the wheels and tires. Anytime you're trying to fit up to 33s, you're gonna have a little bit of a difficult time on a stock suspension. You can probably fit thinner 33s but there may be some rubbing at full lock, especially if you're trying to go with a meatier mud terrain tire, there's probably gonna be a bit of rubbing. Adding a 2-inch leveling kit like the one here from Mammoth will give you enough clearance to run those larger 33-inch tires without any modifications necessary to the inner wheel well. Now, if you're looking to fit something like 35s on your truck, you'll probably wanna start looking at some of the larger kits up to about a 3-inch leveling kit, maybe even a lift kit, depending on their size and your offset. Now, as far as getting ground clearance, of course, if you're doing any light off-roading with your truck, you know that there's not a lot of distance in between the bottom of your front valence and the floor, adding 2 inches can give you just what you need to make off-roading a little bit easier. Now, granted that's light off-roading, but still worth mentioning.On top of that, guys, if you're looking to level out your truck, this is a good way to go. Two inches is a great size to get that done. Two inches are one of the smaller leveling kit options in the category and that's gonna basically bring your front end up equal height to the rear. Now, off the factory, you have what's known as factory rake, which leaves the back end up a little bit further than the front. Now, that is basically for towing and hauling applications to reduce excess squatting from your truck under load like towing a trailer or any of the cargo that you'd have in your bed. Most people think leveling out your truck gives you a more aggressive stance and makes the truck look a lot better and I've got to say, I must agree.This guy is probably one of the most affordable things coming in on the website here at right around 30 bucks, believe it or not, so super affordable when it comes to leveling out your truck. They typically range between 30 and 100, and this is on the more affordable side. Now, this is made of a high-quality laser cut steel as opposed to some of the billet aluminum options in the category which are a little bit more frail. And it's got more of a gunmetal anodized finish on top of it. Now, it looks pretty cool but you're not really gonna see it when it's installed on your truck. Really that finish is to add a layer of durability for corrosion and rust resistance.Now, the install here, I am gonna give three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. If you have a four-wheel-drive F-150, you're gonna have to pull vacuum to release the four-wheel-drive actuator at the front end and pull the entire knuckle off to safely get this installed to prevent any damage to your axles. Now, for two-wheel-drive, guys, it's not gonna be as lengthy of an install, but still, you may require some of those specialty tools. One thing I do wanna mention before we jump into the install here is when you're adding a 2-inch leveling kit, you're not putting as much stress on your suspension as say a 3-inch leveling kit, which does have some harsher CV angles and puts a little bit more stress on something like your upper control arm ball joint. Now, anytime you add a leveling kit to your truck, that is a concern for most guys, but 2 inches is so minor you might not have to worry about that. You also don't have to worry about any premature wear on those suspension components because it's not that big of an angle difference. Factory-like ride quality is gonna be the case here. Not a whole lot of change. Maybe a little bit stiffer than factory, but still not a huge change. It might not even be noticeable. With that said, guys, it'll take you about two, maybe three hours from start to finish. What do you say we get started?All right. Tools used in this install include an air impact gun, cordless ratchet, 1/2-inch ratchet, 8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 19, 21, and 15/16 deep sockets, 27-millimeter short socket, 30-millimeter deep socket, 5-millimeter hex socket or Allen key, a pry bar, a vacuum pump, 21-millimeter wrench, and a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench.All right, guys, kicking off the uninstall here, before we get started, I wanna make a quick mention that our '13 F-150 we're gonna be working on here has its upper control arm replaced. Yours might look a little different than the one we have here, but just know that the process is exactly the same and this upper control arm here is not gonna change the height whatsoever. That's out of the way. Let's get started with taking our brake line and our ABS line off of the knuckle and up here towards the frame just to make sure we have a little more slack on it.All right. Now, there's two brackets here on the side, one for the ABS line and one for the brake line. The brake line is a 10-millimeter bolt. This guy's an 8-millimeter. I have the 10-millimeter here. Let's get that one out of the way first. Now, what I like to do is disconnect the bracket. And then I'm just gonna put the bolt right back on just so we don't lose it. All right. So now I switched over to an 8-millimeter to do the ABS. All right. Now, following those brake lines back up here to the frame, there's one more 10-millimeter, so let's switch back over and get that guy off. All right. So now all this has a bunch of slack and we're not gonna be putting excess pressure on it.All right. Now we have to get our caliper out of the way. Now, in order to do that, I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter socket and a swivel socket along with my air gun to pop this bolt off and the bottom one down here. Now, it's gonna remove the entire caliper from the bracket. So now I have my caliper hanger and this is gonna help hang the caliper up onto the frame so we're not putting stress on the brake lines as well. I'm gonna put that guy there. From here, we're gonna work off the caliper. All right. Now we can hang it up.Next step, of course, is to get the rotor out of the way. Now, in most cases, if you pull on it, the guy's probably stuck on there. There's a little bit of rust and corrosion on the inside of that hub there, in which case you can grab a mallet and carefully tap on the outside of the rotor here to dislodge it. There you go. And now we can set this aside. Now we're gonna switch back over to the 8-millimeter socket and get our dust shield out of the way. There's three bolts holding this guy on, two on the bottom, one at the top. All right. Now I'm gonna grab a 3/16 hex socket and we're gonna get the ABS sensor off of the hub. All right. So that comes out. Very small screw. You're gonna carefully pull that guy out of the hub. All right. And we're just gonna let that guy hang off to the side. Now we're gonna take our sway bar end link nut off. That's an 18-millimeter deep socket we're gonna use and I'm also gonna use a swivel socket just to make life a little bit easier with this air gun. All right. With that guy loosened up, I'm actually just gonna keep this on a couple of threads. We wanted to make this loose so that the lower control arm can drop down a little bit.Next up, let's loosen up the upper control arm castle nut. Now, this guy here has a retainer pin in the middle, which yours may also be bent on the other side, so you may need to unbend it and you're basically just gonna pull it out from the middle of the castle nut. I'm gonna set this aside. Now we're gonna use an 18-millimeter deep socket and again, the swivel, so basically the same assembly we used for the sway bar end link and loosen this guy up. Now, what I'm gonna do is just take that castle nut and thread it on a couple of threads because we still have to dislodge the upper control arm from the knuckle and we wanna make sure this is on to catch it so it doesn't pop out. So now let's get our tie rod end off. Now, I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter deep socket to loosen up this nut. Again, the same thing, thread it on a couple of threads. So if you need to, you can grab a ball-peen hammer and tap right on the side of the knuckle there as you just saw and that should dislodge it.All right. Now we're essentially gonna do the same thing for the upper control arm. You can use the ball-peen hammer to hit right up against the knuckle there. You do not wanna hit the upper control arm ball joint. Make sure you're focusing right there. There it goes. We're gonna do the exact same thing we just did, but to the lower control arm to knuckle joint right here with this 15/16 nut. Perfect. So it doesn't look like we're gonna need to hammer that. It looks like it dislodged. If yours does not dislodge like this one just did, you can use a hammer and do the same process hitting this, making sure you're not damaging the actual ball joint there.Now, this next step is a little bit more unique to the four-wheel-drive, guys. Now, if you have four-wheel-drive, we have to pull vacuum from the four-wheel-drive to disconnect the CV axle from the whole knuckle and hub assembly. The reason we're doing that is to avoid damaging the four-wheel-drive actuator and/or the CV axle when we're lowering the lower control arm and lifting the truck. Putting that at such a high-stress angle, pulling down on it in order to get the strut in and out and cause damage to the four-wheel-drive, which is why you're gonna need this tool here, which is a vacuum pump which is gonna help pull vacuum from the four-wheel-drive actuator. We're gonna pull 24 pounds of vacuum using this gauge here. We're gonna set that aside. We're gonna disconnect everything we need to, set this aside, and pull the entire hub and knuckle assembly off.All right. Now, the vacuum line here is right above where the axle connect to the hub. Just gonna pull that guy straight back and disconnect. I'm gonna take my pump and connect the hose to the bigger fitting just like this. So I'll go from the side so you can see it. All right. Now, I'm gonna pump this and focus on my gauge here to 24 pounds of pressure, and it's gonna be the sweet spot right there. It's a little high, so I'm gonna do it again. Perfect. Now, for this, and I'm gonna carefully set this aside without releasing the pressure, I'm gonna sit that right on our lower control on there. Now, with that pressure pulled, I'm basically gonna disconnect the upper control arm and the tie rod end and then use a 13-millimeter socket to remove the axle nut. From there, I'll pull the CV axle out of the hub. Now, because we relieve that pressure, we'll be able to slide that right out. From there, I'll remove the lower control arm nut and pull the entire knuckle assembly off the truck.All right, So this is all gonna be kind of one motion, so I'm gonna take, first off, the upper control arm off. Keep that guy down there. I'm gonna put this nut back on just so we don't lose it. And our tie rod end is coming next. That we did not wanna happen. We're gonna bring this guy back up, still holding pressure, which is awesome. Perfect. Tie rod end nut's gonna go back here. Next thing I'm gonna do is use a 13 socket to remove the axle nut, pull the CV axle out of the hub, and remove the lower control arm bolt. All right. So you can see this guy slides right out. Lift up here, remove the lower control arm nut. I'm just gonna drop that to the ground and this whole assembly is gonna come with me. Just like that. Pull the pump with me and there you have it.All right. So here I have the entire hub and knuckle assembly on the ground and I wanna show you guys what the reverse side looks like. This is where the CV axle actually connects to the hub. Inside is our four-wheel-drive actuator and you can see the teeth going all the way around. I still have our pump hooked up. So what I wanna do is I'm gonna show you guys what this actually does to give you some context as to why we need to do it. As it sits, I relieve the pressure. I did not remove any vacuum from this. Here I'm gonna pump and as I pump you can see the teeth start to lift up. Pulling vacuum, the 24 pounds that we just did, as you saw, lifted the teeth up. That disengages the four-wheel-drive actuator from the CV axle and allows us to slide it out. Now, if I were to relieve that, you'll see this seat back down and that would, in theory, engage the four-wheel-drive. So pumped up and relieved. You can see it sinks back down into the hub. So this just gives you some context as to why we need to do that.Next, we're gonna remove our bottom strut bolt from the lower control arm. The nut is a 30-millimeter and the bolt head is a 27. So you're gonna need some specialty sockets. I've got my 27 short socket on my 1/2-inch ratchet and my 30 socket on my air gun. There it is. I can set that aside. All right. Next, we can pull the bolt out. All right. Next up we can remove the three top strut tower nuts. These are 15 millimeters. I'm gonna use a ratcheting wrench, definitely recommend this, and you're gonna get these guys off.All right. Now, to get our strut assembly out, I'm gonna use a pry bar right underneath of that, right in this little seat here in the lower control arm. Now, basically gonna pry up and outward to get it out of its seat. Slide it down. Now we can set this guy aside.All right. So we got our factory shut off the truck. Now we can assemble our new spacer. Now, the space you're here from Mammoth is going to drop directly onto the factory studs and there are two different sets of nuts included in the kit. There are gold nuts and silver. The silver will actually hold the spacer to the truck, so when we're installing the spacer to the strut, we're gonna use the gold ones. Now, this only goes on one way, so if you can't get the studs to line up, just keep rotating it until she drops on just like that. Now I'm gonna take each one of these nuts and thread these onto the factory studs. And you might need to lift this guy up just a little bit to clear this edge lip and we got that around. We'll loosen that back up a bit. Now I'm gonna grab a 15-millimeter deep socket and tighten these three down. Perfect. Now we can use the silver ones included in the kit, throw this back in the truck, and tighten it down to the strut tower.So now I've got our three new nuts resting here on our upper control arm for easy access. I'm gonna toss this guy into the truck. So now you can take the other three nuts and just thread them on by hand and we'll come back and tighten them down later. Now, you'll see when trying to seat the bottom of the strut, we're bottoming out on the sway bar end link nut, so I'm just gonna take this guy off and that'll give us a little bit more range to pull the lower control arm down. So from here, pull the control arm down and seat the strut. I'm gonna take a pry bar and insert it into the strut seat and I'm basically prying up to get the bolt hole to line up. It might be a little bit of a trial and error, but. All right. Lift the axle up, thread on the giant nut, and now we can tighten these two down. All right. So now you can grab your 30-millimeter socket and your 27 socket for the bolt head and tighten them down.All right. So next is to reassemble our knuckle and hub assembly. Now, in order to do that, we have to pull vacuum again. Twenty-four is the magic number. Already have that taken care of here. We also lowered our truck down to the ground and we're using a hydraulic floor jack to push up on the lower control arm. The reason we're doing that is these two angles due to our lift kit, were at a little bit of a hard angle and it wasn't lining up with the lower ball joint here and the CV axle. Now, the reason we're jacking that up is to make sure that this could go straight into the hub, line up with the actuator and lock into place. You wanna make sure that you're doing this one properly. Now, this is the most difficult part of this entire process, getting this guy to click back in properly. You wanna make sure that the threading comes all the way through the hub. You wanna see past the threading just to that little chrome ring right around it. That's how you know it seats all the way in and it'll be locked into place without any rotation abilities. So now what we're gonna do is lift this guy up, already took the nut off the bottom control arm ball joint, got that placed up here for safekeeping, lift that guy up, and line everything up and click it back into place. And [inaudible 00:17:47.416].All right. So like I said, that is the trickiest part, making sure the threading comes all the way through. I'm gonna put our 13-millimeter nut right on that stud while holding it in place, threading it on as much as they can by hand, then I'm gonna use a ratchet to carefully tighten it down. You wanna make sure it seats properly. You'll feel if it doesn't seat and using a ratchet just makes it a little bit easier. There it is. All right. So once you have that tightened down, what you wanna do with vacuum still at 24, rotate this. The axle should move freely in that hub. Now, I'm gonna release the vacuum. All right. And then try it again and it locks in. You can't move that axle freely. That's how you know it's done correctly. If your axle still moves freely once you release that vacuum, you wanna go back and do it again, pull the nut off, make sure it seats all the way in and repeat that process. From here, we're gonna start reconnecting our components and tightening those components down. At this point, let's tighten up the bottom nut here with a 15/16 socket.All right. Next, let's do the upper control arm. So I'm gonna take that castle nut off, push the upper control arm through, and I might need to use a pry bar for this guy to finish that off. All right. So now we can put our nut back on along with the spacers. Now, before we tighten those guys down, let's take off the tie rod end nut and seat that back in the knuckle as well. Now we can grab our socket to tighten them both down. Now I'm gonna grab my 19 socket and my swivel and tighten up the upper control arm. Switching over to a 21 deep to tighten up our tie rod end.You wanna make sure the upper control arm castle nut here is lined up with the open hole in the stud. If it is not, you may need to either tighten it or you've gone too tight, you need to crack it loose a little bit just to make sure they line up, grab the retaining pin and put that back through. All right. Before we go any further, let's reconnect our vacuum line to the two little connectors at the back of the hub, and they just slide right on there. All right. So next up what we're gonna do is swing our ABS line back into place on the hub, making sure we're being pretty careful with it. You don't wanna damage that and then you can take that smaller hex screw and put that back in by hand and then grab your socket or Allen key and tighten it down. Next, slide your dust shield into place, making sure that the ABS hose is going through that little opening there and you're lining up these to the open threaded holes. Put those 8-millimeter bolts back in, all three of them before tightening them down just to make sure they're all lined up properly. All right. Grab your 8 socket and tighten them down. All right. So now you can grab your rotor and put it back on the hub. I'm gonna take one of our lug nuts and I'm gonna thread it on the stud just so the rotor doesn't pop loose when we're trying to put the caliper on. I find this to make your life a little easier.All right. So next we're gonna take our caliper off the hanger on the frame and slide that guy back onto the rotor. Grab the factory nuts and put them back through. Now you can grab your socket and tighten them down. All right. So now I'm gonna grab my swivel socket and my 21 socket and tighten down our caliper bracket bolts. Next, we can tackle the ABS and brake line brackets. Now, if you remember correctly, the ABS line is an 8-millimeter and then the brake line has two 10-millimeter ones. So let's take those guys right off of the knuckle here. And do the same thing for the 10 millimeters.All right. Now, the last step here would be to reconnect our sway bar end link. Now, unfortunately, with a lift kit here, it can be pretty difficult depending on the lift kit size to actually get the sway bar bolt to come back through enough to put your nut on top. And that's gonna be the case here. Now, from here, you have two options. One, start repeating this exact same process on the other side of the front and when you disconnect the sway bar over there, it loosens it up and gives you the ability to flex it downward to put the nuts back on. Option two would be to put the weight of the vehicle back down on itself and when it pushes down and lifts the suspension back up with the wheel, it will push the stud back through. So you can take two options. We're gonna go ahead and repeat on the other side and then we'll be able to finish the sway bar up. But from here, guys, you wanna make sure you're torquing down all of your bolts as well. Definitely don't forget about that. Make sure you're looking up the proper torque specs for your specific year gen and model. With that said, that'll wrap up the install. Just repeat on the other side and you'll be good to go.Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Mammoth 2-inch Front Leveling Kit, fitting all '09 to '14 F-150s, excluding the Raptor. This is a great and affordable way to go. Get yours right here at americantrucks.com.
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Fitment: 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
|Lift Type:||Strut Extension Spacer||Lift Height:||2.0"|
|Shocks Included:||No||Max Tire Size:||35"|
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