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Mammoth 2.25-Inch Front Leveling Kit (07-18 Silverado 1500)

Item S108529
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$144.99 (pair)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with, and today we're taking a closer look at and installing the Mammoth 2.25-Inch Front Leveling Kit Spacers, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. You should be checking this out if you're looking to accomplish one of three things: if you're looking to fit larger wheels and tires on your truck comfortably up to 33 inches, if you're looking to add some additional ground clearance at the front end, and if you're looking to reduce some of that factory rake that you get from your truck off the line.Now, fitting larger wheels and tires on your new Silverado here is gonna be pretty difficult with the square wheel wells. You're gonna need at least a leveling kit here to fit larger tires up to 33 inches. This 2.25-inch leveling kit is just enough lift at the front end to help you fit up to 33 inches comfortably without any modification required. Now, keep in mind if you're looking to fit up to 35s, anything under 6 inches of lift will require modification to fit 35s because they will rub. Now, in addition to that, if you're looking to get better ground clearance at the front end, now 2.25 isn't a ton of front end lift, but it is enough to get you over some of those smaller on and off-road obstacles that you may come in contact with on your factory suspension. Lift that front end up about 2.25 inches and you may get over them a little bit easier. Also, if you're looking to reduce the factory rake, this is gonna accomplish that as well. Now, rake is essentially referring to your suspension sitting lower at the front end than it is in the rear to help with towing and hauling applications off the factory line. A lot of guys might not like the look of that rake with your front end sitting lower. Two and a quarter inches will boost that up just enough to reduce that factory rake to make it not as obvious.Now, this particular kit from Mammoth uses a top strut spacer that will go on top of the factory strut hat and a bottom spacer that will go underneath of the strut. Now, physically, the top spacer measure is in just under an inch, and the bottom spacer measure is in at about a quarter-inch. Now, together along with the changes in suspension geometry and spring compression, that'll result in your full 2.25-inch lift. Now this particular kit is also made from a CNC machined billet aluminum with a gray or silver powder-coated finish on top for all four components here. That's gonna help with oxidation and corrosion resistance.Now, the price that comes in right around 175 bucks for the kit, and the install is gonna get two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. It'll take you about two, maybe three hours from start to finish. It's a little bit more involved than say a cold air intake, but I'm gonna take you through the whole process. So, what do you say we get started?Tools used in the install include an impact gun, air impact gun, 10, 15, 16, 17, and 21-millimeter deep sockets, 5.5-millimeter Allen key is recommended with an 8-millimeter hex bit or Allen key, 15, 16, and 17 wrenches, 18 ratcheting wrench recommended, flathead screwdriver, pry bar, panel removal tool, and a hammer are also recommended.All right. Let's kick off the uninstall here. The first thing we wanna do is remove the brake line brackets and the ABS line brackets so that when everything is loose and at full slack or full droop, it's not putting pressure on these lines. There's a 10-millimeter right here and a 10-millimeter right there, just grab your 10 socket and get those 2 off. Now, what I like to do just so we don't lose the bolt is just thread it on a couple of threads right back in the hole while the bracket is loose. That way we know where it is. Same thing back here. Get that bracket off. I'm just gonna lightly thread it back in just like that.All right. Next up, we're gonna loosen up the top nut for our sway bar end link. In order to do that, however, just because there's not a whole lot of room to work with, I'm gonna put a 15-millimeter wrench on the nut on top and use my 15 deep socket on the bolt going through the bottom, and that'll loosen it up. All right, just like that. Now, you don't have to take the entire end link straight down, just wanna grab that nut off the top. And if you can, take the bushing off as well and just set those aside.All right. Next up, we're gonna loosen up and remove our tie rod end. Grab your 21-millimeter deep socket and get that guy off. All right. Now, something to keep in mind here is that if you take this off, then this whole thing is gonna start moving. What I'm actually gonna do now that it's loose, is just put the tie rod end back in and just put this in a couple of threads. We're gonna want this to be pretty stable for the rest of the uninstall, at least up until the point of the upper control arm coming off. So, let's just keep that there for now.Next, we're gonna be loosening up and removing the nut on the bottom of our upper control arm where the ball joint connects to the hub here. Now, in order to do that, you're gonna grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench. That's at least what I recommend because there's not a lot of room here. And this is where we want the stability of the tie rod end because we don't want this thing moving back and forth. So, let's crack this guy loose. All right. Now, once this is loose, what we're gonna do is take the nut completely off and then thread it back in a couple of threads. All right. So, it's on a couple of threads there, now we can grab a hammer and start tapping on the side to dislodge the ball joint. There it is. So, now that we have everything loose, let's take our tie rod end completely off. I'm just gonna put this back on so we don't lose it. Now, we can swivel this guy out. Gonna push down and remove the nut here. Okay. Once this nut is off, I'm gonna set that guy side. This upper control arm is gonna pop out. So, you just wanna be there to support it. Make sure the lines are out of the way. And now that's free.Now, we wanna remove the 2 bottom strut bolts, they're 17 millimeters. Keep in mind once these two guys come out, the entire lower control arm is gonna drop down. So, just watch your head. The next step here is to remove the top three nuts. They're 18 millimeters and then the entire strut will come out. Before we can do that, grab a panel removal tool or something similar, there are these little clips holding onto the front stud and then the one closest to the front of the vehicle here on our driver side. Just gonna pop those guys off. Same thing on the opposite side as well. So, once you have those off, grab an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench and get those 3 off. Okay. Once you have all three off, the strut will drop down and you can take it off. Okay. Set it aside. Now, when it comes to the uninstall, you can repeat that exact same process on the other side.Now, the nice thing about this particular kit is you don't have to bolt this down, it's designed in a way that it just drops onto the factory studs and reuses the factory studs to hold it in place and the pressure inside of that strut hat is gonna keep this guy in place without moving. So, with that on, let's slide our factory strut back up into the strut tower. All right. So, you're going to lift your strut up into position. Use one of the new nuts included in the kit. I recommend putting that out on the back stud so you have a little bit more flexibility at the front end. That'll hold it in place. Now, we can bolt down the bottom. Next up, we have to install the spacer on the bottom of our strut. It's gonna go just like that. Now, this can be a little bit tricky, you wanna basically pull the strut over to get it to line up. Now, we have to reuse your factory bolts, but our factory bolts were stripped out so I'm replacing them with a new bolt with a nut on the bottom. So, I took off our nut clips up here, those threaded clips that it came with from the factory. You should be reusing yours though.So, with that said, bolt goes through the top, through the spacer, and then line it up to the lower control arm. Push the bolt all the way through. You should be going in from the bottom to tighten it up to your factory. And then I am gonna put the nut on the bottom. All right. Do the same thing on the other side. Okay. So, now you can tighten it down. Now, for me, I'm gonna grab my 17 socket and wrench and tighten these down, but you should be using the factory size since you'll be using your factory hardware.Next, we're gonna focus on our upper control arm. Lift your knuckle assembly up, take the nut off of the upper control arm. If you need to use a pry bar, you can. Get the stud lined up to that hole. Grab your pry bar if you're using one and pry down on the upper control arm, making sure that the ABS line is cleared. Put your nut on the stud on the bottom. Now, before we tighten it down, let's put our tie rod into place to hold the whole knuckle steady, and then we'll tighten both down. Take the nut off the tie rod end, put it there. Grab your 21 socket, tighten that down, and your 18 wrench and tighten on the upper control arm. All right. Another trick is to use your pry bar to put pressure on that ball joint like I am here. Keep it from spinning and tighten it down.All right. Next, sway bar end link, put it through the bottom. Make sure the sleeve is in the middle. Put it through the sway bar, bushing first, followed up with a nut. Grab your 15 socket and wrench and tighten them down. Next up, top three nuts. We already have one in place, so I'm just gonna put the other two in. Tighten them all the way down to the base of the stud by hand and then you can go back with your 15 ratcheting wrench or whatever you're using for this and tighten it down. All right. Next, we can put our brake and ABS line back on, just like that. Take the nut off or the bolt rather, and tighten it back down. Same thing up here on the upper control arm. At this point, make sure you're looking up all your torque specs. Torque down all the bolts to your factory spec, get an alignment, and you're good to go.That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the Mammoth 2.25-Inch Front Leveling Kit, available for the '07 to '18 Silverado 1500. You can get yours right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Front Leveling Kit - 2.25-inches
      • Corrects Factory Rake for a Level Stance
      • Increases Front Ground Clearance
      • CNC-Machined Aluminum Strut Spacers
      • Silver Anodized Finish
      • Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation
      • Fits 2007-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Models


      Eliminates Factory Rake. A Mammoth Leveling Kit will raise the front of your 2007-2018 Chevrolet Silverado by 2.25 inches to eliminate the original factory rake. This Mammoth Kit will not only level your Silverado, but it will also increase the front end ground clearance as well.

      Quality Construction. These Mammoth Strut Spacers have been CNC-machined from aircraft-grade billet aluminum for superior strength and durability. Mammoth then completes its Leveling spacers in a durable, silver anodized finish for good looks and long-lasting corrosion resistance.

      Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation. Mammoth designed its Front Leveling Kit to be a straight forward, bolt-on install with no cutting or drilling required. With all the necessary hardware included, this Leveling Kit can be installed in about 2 hours time.

      Application. This Mammoth 2.25-inch Front Leveling Kit is specifically engineered to fit 2007-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 models.

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      Mammoth S108529

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      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Strut Spacers
      • (12) Bolts

      Customer Reviews (1)

        Brand Image

        Reviews of Mammoth Suspension products have an average rating of 4.7 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

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